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Northlight Engine Shed - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Oct 22nd, 2010 08:59 pm
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Perry
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Having scrapped the scratchbuild in favour of a modified Scalescenes shed, I have made a start on the side walls.

The shed will be ten bays long and four roads wide.



This still makes it about 2 feet long and the best part of a foot wide.

So far, I have laminated the side walls, added the windows, windowsills and most of the external buttresses.



The internal buttresses are next.

For printed sheets that have to be glued to card, I am using Ryman P1 Universal Labels to make the fixing quicker, cleaner and more even. I tried using a glue stick initially but found it difficult to get a thin even layer of adhesive over a large area. It's almost certainly rather more expensive to use self-adhesive labels, but I'm saving on paper, glue, time and patience. ;-)  I peel the printed label from the backing sheet and lay it printed side down on the bench, then lower the card gradually down onto it starting at one end. A quick roll down with a small rubber roller makes sure that all is firmly stuck and there are no bubbles or creases.

This technique is not my own idea; I found it right here on our forum!

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 04:31 am
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phill
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Very nice Perry, think it looks GWR to me thou, nice one :thumbs:mutley

Phill

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 10:15 am
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Michael Thornberry
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Hello Perry,
These dreams you're having, you know, those ones of wide-open spaces and fresh-air, well I'm afraid to advise you that they are ALL your sub-concious desire for "all things bright and beautiful" and it's spelt GWR, even "The Giraffe" is in favour, mate, so you should really "come-in out of the Cold" and embrace the inevitable future,
Kind Regards,
Michael Thornberry.
PS:- Really nice building

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 11:12 am
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Perry
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Ain't gonna happen, Michael. Phill knows that. :twisted: :mutley

I must say I'm fairly impressed with the Scalescenes kit so far, although card modelling is a lot harder than plastikard modelling. Everything takes five times as long to do.

I'm using my cutting jig to make it easier to hold the card square when cutting out the buttresses.



Perry



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 11:43 am
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Petermac
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That's going to be a very impressive shed Perry. :thumbs

Like you, I was always a plasticard modeller - not in the same league as you but I used the same material.  Then, having seen Doug's Scalescene models, I just had to have a go.  I doubt I'll go back to plasticard now unless I really have to scratch build something.

As you say, they do take longer but, with a little care and patience (I lack both !!),  they make up into beautiful models and, as I'm not the world's best artist, all the painting is done for me !!

I'm interested in the sticky label idea - I use glue sticks but sometimes I also find it difficult to get a good even and thin covering, particularly on large sheets.  I coat both surfaces otherwise, I find it dries before I get the thing positioned.

Have you tried one of those "fine tip" glue applicators sold by Anne Peak and shown on his (John Wiffen's) site ?  They're fantastic !!

Have a look at them:  http://www.finetip.co.uk




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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 12:07 pm
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shunter1
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Thats going to be a great shed Perry.
In a past post elsewhere you I think mentioned loco procedure when entering the MPD.
From my book LMS engine sheds, Chris Hawkins & George Reeve
volume 1 LNWR.
The sequence was.
1. Coaling and taking on water.
2. Ash disposal.
3. Turning.
4. going to shed for inspection or returning to duties.
Hope that info is of use.
regards,Derek

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 12:49 pm
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Les
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This is looking really good Perry and should be stunning when finished. May I also offer a word of advice?

I built this shed a couple of years ago and I was delighted with it then, HOWEVER, I didn't spray the finished article with a good matt varnish and now I am paying the price.

Below you can see the effect of two very hot Spanish summers and quite a bit of humidity. This is a shot of the roof which has taken on a strangely green cast.



Second you can see the same effect on the side walls. There is some weathering there but not that much.







Third I also built a Wills two road shed which you can see at the side of the next photo and this was not sprayed either but remains in perfect condition. (The columns in the four road shed are bent because I was clumsy when having to drag a dead loco out).



For me this has been a super kit and I now need to build a second which, hopefully will be better now that my skills have developed a bit, but I cannot emphasise enough how much importance I would place on varnishing the finished article.

Les



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 01:14 pm
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Petermac
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A good tip Les - I must do my Scalescenes stuff :cheers



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 02:01 pm
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Perry
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Petermac: Thank you. The fine line applicator looks very useful. I am currently using Anita's Tacky Glue for applying fairly fine lines of adhesive, and Evo-Stik Wood Adhesive for application by brush - simply because I already had a large container of it in my workshop. I got a 'test pack' of P1 lables from Rymans. The pack contains 25 labels and cost £5.99 which is about 24p per label. There is also a box of 100 available for £17.99 which brings the cost down to about 18p per label. I didn't want to commit to buying 100 without trying them first, though.
http://www.ryman.co.uk/0220010460/Ryman-Address-Labels-P1-Universal-289x205mm-A4-25-Sheets/Product

Derek: Thanks for confirming the sequence of events. The track planning is still on-going and I will need to take all this information into account.

Les.:Terrific pictures - fabulous model!

I have already purchased the matt varnish in readiness for spraying the completed model, but thanks for the tip.

I notice that you have a wall between the two halves of the shed. Is this necessary, or did you build it like that from choice? My current train of thought (sorry about the pun) is to have another row of columns instead of the middle wall. I'm also considering using wood strip as the basis of the columns, rather than just relying on card.

On the Scalescenes instructions that at provided, there is a template for building some roof trusses. Did you add these? I can't tell from the photographs, unfortunately. I may well build them out of plastic strip.

If my shed ends up half as nice looking as yours, I will be very pleased.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 04:21 pm
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John Dew
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Thats a very impressive start to the Shed ...........you guys are going to wean me away from Plasticard eventually:lol:

shunter1 wrote:
Thats going to be a great shed Perry.
In a past post elsewhere you I think mentioned loco procedure when entering the MPD.
From my book LMS engine sheds, Chris Hawkins & George Reeve
volume 1 LNWR.
The sequence was.
1. Coaling and taking on water.
2. Ash disposal.
3. Turning.
4. going to shed for inspection or returning to duties.
Hope that info is of use.
regards,Derek


I am beginning to think that [1] and [2] may have alternated depending on the Company (?) or local conditions.

I think on one of your earlier threads someone confirmed Ash Disposal first then Coaling and Water.......that was certainly my understanding of GWR practice (which I gather you are not modelling:lol::lol:

Regards



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 04:55 pm
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Perry
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John Dew wrote: Thats a very impressive start to the Shed ...........you guys are going to wean me away from Plasticard eventually:lol:
..............
I think on one of your earlier threads someone confirmed Ash Disposal first then Coaling and Water.......that was certainly my understanding of GWR practice (which I gather you are not modelling:lol::lol:

Regards

Ah, at last, someone has realised that I'm NOT modelling G*R.:brickwall:mutley:mutley

Thanks for your comments, John.

I think I may be able to employ a little bit of 'modeller's licence' if those tasks were interchangeable in various parts of the country, which I suspect they may have been.

I think once the Scalescenes shed is finished, I may try my hand at scratchbuilding in card, using what Scalescenes construction is teaching me.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 05:20 pm
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:hmmHi again Perry, The loco MPD sequence was likely a bit flexible in the very early LMS days, In the late 20s early 30s a major overhaul took place in LMS shed practice and modernization of facilities ,shed repairs and rebuilds, No1 and No2 coaling towers introduced No1 for the big MPDs No2 for the secondry sheds some of course were not changed. mechanical ashplants brought in.

tracklayouts changed for faster turnaround. I did notice in my book copy that a lot of the big sheds lost their side windows, brickedup?

bit awkward though to operate on a model layout.

Of course the premier line were the first in the country to have mechanical coal plants, first one introduced in 1919.On the other hand some depots were still using shunting horses up to the late 30s. excuse for a horse stable :lol:

regards,Derek

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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 05:38 pm
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Perry
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As you can see, my shed will have windows just along one side, so I can see what I'm doing when I'm operating. It seems pointless putting them in the back wall though. I need something there to 'stop the eye', and an interior wall is just the job.

My layout will be very loosely based around the end of steam and the advent of the diesel era, although I'm very much of the "If I like it, I'll run it" camp. ;-) I only have myself to please, after all.

The stable is a lovely thought though.........

Perry




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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 07:39 pm
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John Dew
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Perry wrote:
The stable is a lovely thought though.........



I was muttering about this in another thread......Kaisers I think.

Bearing in mind the extensive use of horses on the Railways right up to 1947 and beyond it is surprising how rarely one sees a stable building modelled............my point being that the stables were typically near to the work site and once horse power was replaced the buildings were not invariably torn down.......often they were converted to garages/workshops or stores and used as such beyond the end of steam

Perhaps the reason is there are no kits available...........so it would be a scratchbuilding exercise.............one of many on my to do list:sad: 

Regards



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 07:59 pm
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Les
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Perry wrote: I notice that you have a wall between the two halves of the shed. Is this necessary, or did you build it like that from choice? My current train of thought (sorry about the pun) is to have another row of columns instead of the middle wall. I'm also considering using wood strip as the basis of the columns, rather than just relying on card.

On the Scalescenes instructions that at provided, there is a template for building some roof trusses. Did you add these? I can't tell from the photographs, unfortunately. I may well build them out of plastic strip.

If my shed ends up half as nice looking as yours, I will be very pleased.

Perry

Thanks Perry, coming from you that is very gratifying indeed.

I've just peered into the shed and it seems as though I did build the roof trusses although why I don't know because on my layout you just cant see them. I also built two internal smoke exhaust outlets but must have got bored with that because I stopped at two. My reasoning would be that as I couldn't see them it was pointless. As for the columns, when I do it again I will certainly use wood/plastic strip.

I built the wall between the shed because in my inexperience I obviously couldn't fathom out another way of holding up the roof which consisted of two lots of two roof panels side by side (if that makes any sense).i.e. I thought four panels side by side would be too flimsy and knowing me I would ensure the roof would fall in. Your suggestion of another row of columns sounds like a major improvement.:thumbs

Les



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 Posted: Sat Oct 23rd, 2010 10:31 pm
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Can't wait to see the result Perry some nice useful tips have come out in this thread such as Peters glue tip and your own self adhesive paper as well ,to reinforce Doofers technique.

I started following your foamboard build so i bought some 3mm stuff, it seems to make a more rigid base than card, although saying that my station building is holding up. Yes cutting card can be tough i count 10 cuts on my thickest card..tedious or what.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 09:23 am
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Perry
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I couldn't source any 3mm foamboard locally which is one of the reasons I scrapped the previous job (but not the only one). The 5mm was too thick for a base layer. With buttresses, plinths and windows, etc, all adding the the thickness I would have had walls over a scale 2 feet thick. I know buildings can be fairly substantial, but on a model it just looks wrong, IMHO.

Unfortunately I have a problem with my hands which is steadily getting worse. They are rather painful most of the time and the effort of cutting lots of 2mm thick card doesn't do them any good at all. Still, I shall persevere. I'm glad this thread is proving useful to others. I'm learning a great deal too, and expect in the future to be able to use more diverse materials and techniques than I have in the past.

I cut and glued up 21 pairs of internal buttress base layers  :shock: for the the shed last night before adjourning to watch X Factor on TV, so I plan on gluing the wraps on them today. They should be fully dry by tomorrow so that they can be added to the wall assemblies.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 09:32 am
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I'm just impressed how you managed to take a photo of yourself cutting the card on your jig !



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 09:41 am
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Perry
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Having a helpful wife does have advantages occasionally. :cool wink :mutley

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 09:59 am
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Cutting and glueing those "base layers" is a real pain Perry.  Just when you think it's safe to move on, you find there's another 50 of the blighters to do !!!  Then you begin to understand why these kits are so very tough....................:thumbs



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