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00 Gauge - 53D Bridlington - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu Mar 17th, 2011 04:40 am
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AUSSIETRAINS
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I,m just petrified of soldering.

That,s why I don,t do it.

Face your fears I hear you all cry.

B@$#%er off I reply.



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John.
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 Posted: Thu Mar 17th, 2011 04:43 am
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Petermac
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:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

Ah - that inner conflict !!

Go on, you know you can do it.  After the first 12 failures, it becomes a piece of cake ............



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 Posted: Thu Mar 17th, 2011 05:19 am
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owen69
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Petermac wrote: :mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

Ah - that inner conflict !!

Go on, you know you can do it.  After the first 12 failures, it becomes a piece of cake ............

which you can`t pick up cos of the burnt fingers, :thud:mutley:mutley:cool:

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 Posted: Thu Mar 17th, 2011 05:41 am
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Petermac
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:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley



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 Posted: Tue May 24th, 2011 02:57 pm
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mervholden
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  Progress update on my ‘Mini Brid’ project:-
 
All approach track and points to the loco yard & shed wired up except to the turntable. This I am hoping to install next month – it will be a 60 foot Cowans & Sheldon balanced type purchased from MetalSmith. For those familiar with 53D, it will be sited as in the mid 50’s when it was relocated – the original was smaller (approx. 50 foot) and situated behind the water tower.
 
I soldered (yes John if I can do it so can you!) droppers to the underside (not using clips) and then connected to the bus with snap-lock connectors. Upon testing I found a few needed an extra squeeze with the pliers to ensure the connector blade made contact with both wires. If I didn’t have so many more to do in the future (and already bought them!) I would probably opt for soldering or using terminal block connectors instead.
 
I connected track with insulated joiners at all frog vees (all points are electrofrog) and provided power at all point toes and runs of plain track. The test loco ran smooth (even at low speed) over all track & points in all directions except over an asymmetric three way. I have no ‘frog switches’ and operate points manually and all but the three way successfully ‘power route’ themselves.
 
My question for anybody who may be able to enlighten me is – does the wiring (as manufactured) of Peco electrofrog three way (and maybe also slips) not provide for power routing like their ordinary points?
 
I assume if this is the case I will then have to provide switching. I’m sure many would say they prefer to do so anyway for all their points with or without motors.



Anyway, I’m assuming as it is all new track and the loco is a modern breed of Bachmann, that it is not a back-to-back measurement problem i.e. fouling of wheels on frogs/blades causing a short.
 
I appreciate any help that can be offered – here’s a current (!?) pic.




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 Posted: Tue May 24th, 2011 04:58 pm
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Geoff R
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mervholden wrote: My question for anybody who may be able to enlighten me is – does the wiring (as manufactured) of Peco electrofrog three way (and maybe also slips) not provide for power routing like their ordinary points?

I am afraid the answer is no!

Leads are provided already attached to each frog, but these do need to be connected up to switches like this:-



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 Posted: Tue May 24th, 2011 06:26 pm
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AUSSIETRAINS
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Strange how coincidence strikes Merv.

I made a start on droppers last week ( see my thread )

You,re right, its not too hard, cept when you get hold of the wrong end of the iron.



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 Posted: Thu May 26th, 2011 08:34 am
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mervholden
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Hi Geoff, thanks for that. I assume you mean that slips are not power routing either?

As two of the frogs are wired common, would the diagram below work the same using two SPDT switches?


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 Posted: Thu May 26th, 2011 05:46 pm
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Geoff R
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You show the right hand two frogs joined together in your diagram, Merv. I have two of these 3-way points and they both have those two frogs isolated from each other with seperate wires connected, hence my version of the wiring diagram. If those frogs are connected together on your 3-way (maybe a later version), then yes, your diagram is correct.

And yes, slips require switches as well. They are not power routed by themselves. It seems that all of Peco's power routed points are supplied without any flying leads attached (the frog does have a lead attached but it is hidden under a sleeper where it can stay if not used). Whereas any that are not power routed are supplied with flying leads attached as appropriate.

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 Posted: Thu May 26th, 2011 06:00 pm
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gdaysydney
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mervholden wrote:



Hi Merv,

Read your thread for the first time today and loved the pic above. Would you mind sharing how you got the finish on the road surface?  I have tried many times to replicate a road by using plaster but have never been able to get anywhere near the finish you have achieved.

 

 

 



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 Posted: Fri May 27th, 2011 06:15 am
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mervholden
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Hi Dave, replicating a road surface does seem to be a tricky one. After seeing many well modelled layouts only to be let down by poorly represented roads, I was determined to try to find a method that could at least give the impression of tarmac.

Of course there are many variations in colour and degree of weathering so I started with trialling a mix that would initially look like new tarmac. I must add that this is my first attempt with this mix and no doubt will have more variations as I progress with further roads on the layout.

Ok for this first 'recipe' I mixed up some Polyfilla (all purpose) then added in approx. equal amount of fine sand.
I then coloured this by adding some Wilko matt black - the white of the Polyfilla tones it down.
The last ingredient is PVA glue - sorry I can't be precise about the quantity - trial & error is the name of the game!

The final mix was quite stiff, so when laid I smoothed it down to to the required level. After it was dry I sanded down with a block and because of the sand it remained slightly rough. I was quite pleased with the finish as it wasn't too smooth which is the biggest failing of most modelled roads. Although I'm not happy with my attempt at the white lining (which I will look at again at a later date), I then used various shades of Carr's weathering powders. This of course is very subjective depending on the degree of ageing required and not forgetting that lighting can have it's own effect.

I dare say there are many other ingredients that could go into the 'mix' - experiments can be fun and give surprising results!

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 Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2011 12:54 am
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gdaysydney
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Hi Merv,

Sorry for the delay in thanking you for sharing your road making.  I have been busy re-landscaping and m just about ready to commence on a length of road so I will try your method

Cheers



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 Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2011 02:24 am
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mervholden
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Best of luck Dave with the road building - you may have noticed in my pic that the paths were tarmac as well.
Most of the public paths in the area I'm modelling were not slabbed. However, railway property such as platforms, etc. were a mixture of surfaces.

I used plastic strip for the kerb edging - super-glued on it's edge which allowed me to get curves where required. I then back filled with the tarmac mix to the top edge for the paths and approx half way up for the road. This effectively sandwichs the strip into place -it ain't going anywhere now!

One thing I forgot to mention - before 'tarmac filling' but after the superglue had set - I scored the the plastic edge half way down to emulate the kerb lengths. However after painting 'concrete grey' the fake joins were not too visible even after weathering, so I may apply a darker wash to seep into the lines at a later stage.

Like one of the other guys said earlier, you've got quite a busy layout with plenty to do. I too will not have a fiddle yard (unless I'm allowed to expand at a later date!?) but like you I'm trying to cram a quart into a pint pot! I'll have plenty of shunting possibilities what with moving the daytrip coaches, turning/servicing locos and of course not forgetting goods at various locations on the site.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2011 06:50 am
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gdaysydney
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mervholden wrote: Best of luck Dave with the road building - you may have noticed in my pic that the paths were tarmac as well.
Most of the public paths in the area I'm modelling were not slabbed. However, railway property such as platforms, etc. were a mixture of surfaces.


I was going to ask about the footpaths so thanks for the info. As I am not modelling any particular area or era I will give that a go as well




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 Posted: Sat Sep 17th, 2011 04:57 am
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mervholden
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Further update on progress to loco yard - please see attached pics




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 Posted: Sat Sep 17th, 2011 05:13 am
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SRman
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Late-comer to your layout thread here!

This looks very promising, Merv. I do like your road texture. For white lines, I have had great success in the past, on dioramas as well as my old layout, using paper painted with satin white paint, then cut into thin strips and trimmed to whatever length is required, then glued down with UHU-Stic glue.

Keep the updates coming because your modelling looks to be first class.  :)



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 Posted: Sat Sep 17th, 2011 06:06 am
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mervholden
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Thanks for the comments Jeff though I can assure you I'm very much a novice so trial & error is the name of the game.
I've never been happy with my road markings so I may redo them one day using your method.

Just in case anybody is interested the turntable is from MetalSmith to which I have added DCC control. It runs extremely smoothly & will turn at a crawl making it easy to align tracks without the need for indexing.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 17th, 2011 06:50 am
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Petermac
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I was about to ask where you got the turntable Merv. :thumbs

Excellent progress.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 17th, 2011 06:58 am
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SRman
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Don't knock the 'trial and error' method; I have had quite a few "happy accidents" that have made their way into my repertoire of modelling techniques!!!



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 Posted: Sat Sep 17th, 2011 07:27 am
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phill
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Late as per normal and i must say this is a superb layout mate. Have you sorted the soldering or not. One tip if you find you lose power on the track i find the tounge test works a treat :thumbs:mutley

Phill

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