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00 Gauge - 53D Bridlington - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu Dec 9th, 2010 08:47 pm
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Petermac
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That's a lovely old map Merv.  Old maps are wonderful things for doing research and it's amazing how rapidly things change.

What's on the site of the old quarry near the "engine house"  now - assuming it still exists in some form ?



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 Posted: Thu Dec 9th, 2010 09:00 pm
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AUSSIETRAINS
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Looking good Merv.

I,ve lost count of how many times I,ve gone over those bridges.

Guess I,ll have to get a bit of a move on on my layout now.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2010 06:39 am
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Marty
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Great start Merv,

Don't know how I missed this thread before, I usually read most of 'em.

I do like the way you are modelling something prototypical. keep it coming.

cheers



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 Posted: Fri Dec 10th, 2010 08:59 am
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mervholden
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Peter - The old engine house was demolished to make way for the extra approach roads when the station expanded. The old quarry became the site of the new MPD & the pond must have been drained - not sure whether this was when the mill ceased working. The original course of the Gypsey Race must have been re-instated as I assume the pond was created as a head of water for the mill water wheel?

This whole area has since been re-developed into a B&Q site with car park - what will it be in another 50 years I wonder!




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 Posted: Thu Jan 6th, 2011 10:44 am
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mervholden
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A couple more pics to show my latest progress - I've made the loco shed floor base with inspection pits plus ash pits which will be outside at the front. I've also shown a dry run of positioning for most of the southern approach pointwork and an approximate position of the turntable indicated by the upturned lid - well I didn't want to advertise the fact that I've just finished another box of 'Celebration' chocolates! You may also notice wooden blocks at the approach to the station - these show the rough position of the Station Road bridge pillars.

A question for any any electrical gurus that may read this - all my points (peco code 75 electrofrog) will be manually operated, can I use the attached wiring as droppers and do I still need to use change-over switches? I shall also be using DCC control though I assume this will have no bearing on this question?




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 Posted: Thu Jan 6th, 2011 04:30 pm
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John Dew
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Dont know how I missed this thread. Great Progress................I really like the way you have treated the roads and grass edging..............very atmospheric.........brings back lots of memories:thumbs

mervholden wrote:

A question for any any electrical gurus that may read this - all my points (peco code 75 electrofrog) will be manually operated, can I use the attached wiring as droppers and do I still need to use change-over switches? I shall also be using DCC control though I assume this will have no bearing on this question?



I am sure someone will be able to provide a clearer explanation but here is my attempt:

No matter what you do you have to have some form of switch to change the polarity of the frog and switch(?) rail

The power feed and common attached (ie that you have soldered?) to the foot of the point need to be connected both to the power bus and to a switch to which you  connect the thin frog wire already attached by peco.

That will be sufficient to power the point........if the flexitrack attached to the foot of the point is connected by metal fishplates then that section of track will also be powered and technically does not require additional droppers.........but I think it is very sound advice not to rely on the fishplates for conductivity so I either add additional droppers to the flexitrack or solder short connecting wires as a back up for the fish plate

Hope this helps   



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 Posted: Thu Jan 6th, 2011 07:42 pm
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Ianbo
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The roadways you have made are really good, by the way what fencing have you used for the side of the road? 



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 Posted: Thu Jan 6th, 2011 09:24 pm
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Sol
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Merv, re the points - yes, ideally they are wired for frog switching irrespective of DC or DCC
Have a look at Post #46 in http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=1733&forum_id=6&page=3

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 Posted: Thu Jan 6th, 2011 09:39 pm
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Michael Thornberry
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Hello Merv,
Welcome back, mate. A Yorkshire emigrant living in Nottingham must be a danger to "life and limb":shock:, so I was not surprised when you went AWOL. It could be worse you might have strayed into Lancashire:roll:, I assumed that as soon as the kidnappers realised you were a "gudd fur nowt":lol: Yorkshireman that they would want shot-of you. Nice Scenic and Land-scaping work, Merv. Looking forward to more,
Kind Regards,
Michael Thornberry.

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 Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2011 11:05 am
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mervholden
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Thanks for the feedback guys:-

John & Sol for the electrics advice.

Michael - "Northeners rule OK!" - just wash your mouth out after mentioning Lancashire!! (only kidding - honest!?)

Ianbo - the fencing (like most of my scenery) is scratchbuilt - quite simply wooden stirring sticks  (courtesy of Ikea!) cut up for the posts and card cut into strips.  I attached a piece of masking tape (sticky face up) to a template guide marked with scale six foot centres for the posts and spacing for the horizontals.  Glued them together with PVA, then when set painted & weathered.

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 Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2011 12:10 pm
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Petermac
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mervholden wrote:.........................................................................................  I attached a piece of masking tape (sticky face up) to a template guide marked with scale six foot centres for the posts and spacing for the horizontals.  Glued them together with PVA, then when set painted & weathered.
I'm not sure I understand your method Merv............:???::???:

Does the masking tape stay in situ after the fence is done ?  I'm assuming here that you make the fence on the masking tape "rails down" ...........:roll::roll:



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 Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2011 12:34 pm
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mervholden
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Peter - the masking tape is there just to hold the assembly together lightly during gluing after which the finished assembly is put aside to dry. I found this an easier way of ensuring consistent spacing.

The tape was fixed face up onto some plain card which had the spacings marked above the tape for the post centres and at both ends for the horizontals. The tape lasted OK for six 12 inch lengths.

The hardest part I found to be when cutting the card into very thin strips it has a tendency to curl. Hence the use of tape - the horizontal rails aligned on the tape first then the post added with a dab of PVA glue at the rail positions.

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 Posted: Fri Jan 7th, 2011 04:58 pm
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Petermac
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Thanks Merv - that's what I thought you meant.  It's a neat trick to know. :thumbs



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 Posted: Sat Jan 8th, 2011 12:48 am
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Ianbo
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Thanks Merv I'll have a go myself:thumbs



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 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2011 10:07 am
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mervholden
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Hi guys, been very busy lately away from home, anyway just getting materials ready for wiring up and came across these
 'contact clips'  - see pic below. I wondered if anybody has used them before and whether they have had problems fitting/using them?

Available from 'International Models' - manufactured by Tillig - £2.50 for 20

I thought the clips maybe easier than soldering droppers direct to the rail - any thoughts anybody?


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 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2011 10:31 am
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MaxSouthOz
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They'd possibly be OK for short term use, Merv.  For longer term, I'd go for the solder.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2011 10:56 am
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Petermac
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Me too.

Clips, in whatever form, have a habit of working loose and oxidising creating a barrier to current flow.

Looks like a neat idea but, as with many things in the "lab", once they're out in the field, the problems start to appear.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2011 10:33 pm
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AUSSIETRAINS
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Here,s a real silly question to the soldering experts ( of which I am not one ) even my kids won,t let me near a soldering iron.

Would it work if the clips were soldered to the track and then the droppers soldered to the tail of the clip ?



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 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2011 11:15 pm
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Petermac
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Yes - that would work John.

It's not the shape or position of the clips, it's the fact that they're "clips" so are not "fixed" to the rail.  Once you solder them, they become a part of the rail.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 17th, 2011 09:05 am
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mervholden
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Thanks for the input guys, I did think of soldering the clip John - as Peter says they then 'become as one'!

However, I'm no soldering expert either and would not two joints just double the chance of a dry joint?

Mmm - not sure whether I've answered my original question now   :hmm

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