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Australian NR in G - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 12:03 pm
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87 101
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And so you should Max it looks great and that pipework looks impressive. :thumbs

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 12:05 pm
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Gwiwer
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Knowing his prowess with sounds I'm hoping he can get that pipework to "spit" air through the valves as the real thing does when idling!

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 05:58 pm
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wogga
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Well that looks like the tweeter has a home wheres the subwoofer going?:mutley



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Pete.

ECOS2 with RR&Co Traincontroller and a load of other electronics so i can sit back and watch the trains go by.
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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 08:59 pm
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henryparrot
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Starting to really look something now Max

You had better get outside and start laying the track

Brian

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 09:04 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, men.  Brian, have you seen the price of Gauge One track?  :Red Card



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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 09:08 pm
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henryparrot
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Ive got loads in the shed Max

Brian

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 Posted: Fri Nov 19th, 2010 09:53 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Are you looking to sell some, Brian?     NO.  NO.  NO.   I didn't say that.   :Red Card



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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 07:09 am
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henryparrot
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Trouble is Max with the postage costs it would be cheaper to buy new stuff than me sending LGB track

I know its expensive i have seen what people pay for it on Ebay i will get round to putting some on there some time as i will never use it or the locos and rolling stock i have..

Have you looked at Tenmille track i have some of that aswell and it looks far more prototypical than LGB/Aristo etc

Brian

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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 07:15 am
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MaxSouthOz
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I"m trying not to look at anything, Brian.    :chicken



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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 07:19 am
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henryparrot
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You cant take it with you Max so you may as well spend it now and tell all the kids they can get their inheritance selling things on Ebay:lol::lol:

Brian

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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 08:08 am
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wogga
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henryparrot wrote: You cant take it with you Max so you may as well spend it now and tell all the kids they can get their inheritance selling things on Ebay:lol::lol:

Brian

Done that one Brian! "we must keep the boxes love cos when i'm gone you will get more for it on ebay, call it an investment ;-)"



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Pete.

ECOS2 with RR&Co Traincontroller and a load of other electronics so i can sit back and watch the trains go by.
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 Posted: Sat Nov 20th, 2010 08:16 am
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MaxSouthOz
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:mutley



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Port Elderley
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 Posted: Wed Nov 24th, 2010 10:12 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Well.  I was WRONG.  There is no glue which will stick anything to styrene - except more styrene.  MEK will do that.  I thought it would stick other stuff to styrene, but I was WRONG.  Not PVA, not epoxy, not urethane, not Tarzan's grip.  Nuffing.

It will stick for a while, but a week or so later, it falls off.  I solved the bearings falling off by using mudgard washers and bolting them on.  I tried making some hoses for the rear sanding equipment, but even PVA coated electrical wire won't stick.  I'm going to try to get some styrene rod about 2mm in diameter and see if I can bend it to simulate a sanding hose.

I'll be back later . . .



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 Posted: Wed Nov 24th, 2010 12:08 pm
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ddolfelin
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Hot water and scalded fingers for the best results, Max.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 25th, 2010 05:24 pm
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RJR
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I find super glue sticks non styrene parts to styrene,

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 Posted: Thu Nov 25th, 2010 07:08 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Super glue (CA) peels off the styrene I have, John.  The Tetra MEK seems to be the only thing that will stick to it.  I made grilles out of copper wire for the ditch lights and the MEK seems to be working with the copper.  As I painted it on I could see a coppery colour appear in the glue, so maybe its dissolving it as it does with the styrene.

Where I used the piano wire on the bogies, they were inserted in holes and coated with CA from the other side to stop them puling out.  The two sanding hoses are basically face glued to the beams, so there is no mechanical support for them.  I'm going to see if I can get some solid styrene extruded rod in about 1.5 mm diameter.  That will stick OK, then I have to bend it around to shape.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 26th, 2010 11:43 am
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Have you tried Bostik Max ? I use it to glue foamex to styrene when doing my buildings. ;-)

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 Posted: Fri Nov 26th, 2010 11:59 am
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I'm pretty sure Bostik is silicone based, Dave.  In which case, yes.  I should add it to the list.  I'm begining to suspect the styrene might be a factor.  Some of the joints I have made with MEK have come apart too easily whenI have been "dismantling", some wrong bits.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 26th, 2010 12:22 pm
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Not sure Max. Ian mentiond a solvent free version but I have never seen it I use the normal stuff in the purple tubes. The only other glue I use with plastics is that contacta professional glue by revell ( the small blue/yellow bottle with the long metal tube. You could always try pipe weld. ;-)

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 Posted: Fri Nov 26th, 2010 01:12 pm
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henryparrot
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Pipe weld as Dave is calling it would stick styrene together just be a bit carefull as it is what is says weld it does melt the touching surface i use stacks of the stuff on pipework i fit

Your local builders/plumbers merchant or perhaps Diy store should have some commonly known as ABS glue here and smells really good

You have to be over 18 to buy it here

Polypipe who make the  glue fit waste pipework and fittings is the most common seen version here.

Brian

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