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7mm O-16.5 Small Peckett kit build - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Mar 30th, 2010 05:55 pm
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greengiant
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Having been warmly welcomed I thought it best to get some threads going of my models.

This is my build of the Wrightlines Peckett 0-4-ST kit Ref: W206.

In my haste to get things done I forgot to photograph the kit of bits!

First picture then is the basic frames assembled.
Points to note:
The frame screws fouled the front wheels, so I left them out and soldered the inner frame spacer instead. I though about fitting Kadees, the front was fine but for the back I moved the rear inner spacer forward to give room. Then made a flat plate for the very back of the chassis, flush with the top of the frames and tapped this to take the Kadee fixing bolt.
The instructions do not show that the rear spacer should have a hole and the countersink of the hole should be on the underside.
A little bit of filing work was needed to give clearance in the slot for the motion bracket.
Front and rear spacers (parts 48 and 49) were then fitted, it was shame these are not supplied longer i.e. exactly the same as the distance between the outer frames, then the inner and outer would centre automatically. I did not discover this until later so made some block from styrene to space mine, if I was to do another one I would make new spacers.



The outer frames were quite straight forward, the only change I made was to drill holes on the buffer beam mounts to clear the Kadee bolts.
The cylinder block instructions say to drill out 0.8mm, mine were already large enough.
I replaced the slide bar wire supplied with straight 0.7mm wire from my stock.
Why do they supply the wire in the kits curved, it makes things harder having to straighten the wire first!
You will see in this photo that the frame spacers fall short of the outer frames.



This picture shows both the spacers and how they fall short. Also the front Kadee is trial fitted.



Here I have made some packing spacers for the front.



The cab front and footplate were assembled next.



Quickly followed by the saddle tank, smoke box, chimney and cab sides. All fairly straightforward except for the smoke box mounting plate, was not clear if this goes above or below the ledge. I did below and ended up doing a lot of thinning.
This is a nicely designed kit being made as a number of sub assemblies that all bolt together, this also saved a lot of masking when painting.



The cranks were not difficult to fit and set up. Coupling rods needed a bit of work, the crank pin nut needs to be thinned down, very close fit on both sides. The spacing tube supplied in the kit to make the rods parallel was too small and passed through the coupling rods! I got around this by using a long and a short crankpin bush.
You can just see the motor in this picture, but in the final version it does not show with the tool boxes and balance pipes in the way. Notice the cab back is missing, I left this off until painted so that the cab interior could be easily reached. The hole in the front buffer beam is for the Kadee.



The whole lot was stripped, washed, primered and top coated with Halfords finest.



Lined using some spare lines on some 7mm transfers I had kicking around, nameplate was made by through the 7mm Association or Wrightlines I can’t remember which, many years ago when I had all my kids names made. This one, Zoe, is the youngest and the one normally with me at shows when exhibiting the layout. Finally a coat of matt varnish, which I think as Humbrol, although I now use Testors Dullcote, mainly because it is easier being in a can.
This is how it stayed for a few years until I decided to go DCC and took it apart.



I fitted a TCS chip, very simple to wire in.





Cut back the wires not needed and taped up the rest.



Popped the footplate and cab back on to check clearance.



Stuffed the chip into the saddle tank, which was a bit tight because the amount of lead I had packed in previously, if doing it again I would not put so much lead in to give some more room.



Then it was put to work in the early days on my Whiteoak Light railway.



But as time went on the loco and layout received a leyer of grime and this how the loco ended up, even gained a driver.



Martin

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 Posted: Tue Mar 30th, 2010 06:22 pm
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Wheeltapper
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Hi Martin and a belated welcome to the forum.

This build is really interesting as I am just starting a 7mm 16.5 project (it was going to be 1/32nd scale but I have since changed my mind).

I have been looking at Kadee couplers but there seems to be a difference of opinion on which the best type to use in this scale is and so I am wondering which you have used ?



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 Posted: Tue Mar 30th, 2010 08:37 pm
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RJR
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very nice little loco, I prefer it "work worn and dirty" than its out of the showroom look :)

John

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 Posted: Tue Mar 30th, 2010 09:24 pm
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PhilC
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Hi Martin,

Many thanks for the pictures and info on the build.

Cheers

PhilC

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 Posted: Tue Mar 30th, 2010 09:51 pm
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greengiant
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Wheeltapper wrote: Hi Martin and a belated welcome to the forum.

This build is really interesting as I am just starting a 7mm 16.5 project (it was going to be 1/32nd scale but I have since changed my mind).

I have been looking at Kadee couplers but there seems to be a difference of opinion on which the best type to use in this scale is and so I am wondering which you have used ?

Hi Richard

Nearly all my stock uses the No. 5 coupling, any Bachmann couplers are replaced with No. 148 metal whisker which is dramatically better than the Bachmann version.
Recently I have got in stock some No. 45, 49 and 42's, these are basically different length shanks with the heads offset above or below the centre for stock when a No. 5 is difficult to align.
I will post a thread of another build which shows a jig I built to help with locating Kadees accurately on stock.

Martin

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 Posted: Wed Mar 31st, 2010 10:25 am
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Wheeltapper
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Thanks Martin - that will be very usefull.



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