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Island Platform Ticket Office/Waiting Room - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 12:09 pm
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MikeC
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So what am I doing in the scratchbuilding section? Having a bash at making my station building, based on plans provided in the April '96 edition of Railway Modeller.

I'm only loosely following the plan, which is for a timber building, but it's a good guide with drawings to scale.
I'm using stone pattern Slater's Plasticard, and reinforcing with 1mm styrene sheet, intending to laminate the two together. That means cutting out all windows and doors twice :!: but I want the thickness around openings to better represent stonework.
At this stage I'm aiming to make all window frames from thin styrene similar to that used in margarine containers. I'll see how I go.
I'll be adding interior walls, seating and lighting. The building has rest rooms, and there will be vents in the walls nearby.
The footprint is 6 x 1 3/4 ins. I'm adding 3mm of styrene at the base so I can recess it into my platform. The building will be removable so it won't always block the view :)

Here are the walls, also showing one door cut from the 1mm styrene. That 1mm styrene is tough :evil:

                Unable to repair, Images removed at source by OP.        Barchester   

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 12:39 pm
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Robert
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knowing nothing of the Plastikard scene Mike I must ask why you are using styrene instead of plain plastikard in the sandwich? Especially as the styrene sounds a bit difficult to handle.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 12:46 pm
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MikeC
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Bob I'm using the styrene because the plasticard is very floppy and yes I know it could be braced here and there, but I also really want a deepish rebate in windowsills and doorways. I thought that with so many windows I'd feel the need to surround each one on the inside to provide the depth. I f I was to go that far I might as well make a whole second layer and be done with it. Anything else would have been too easy :)

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 12:55 pm
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Robert
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Wouldn't card have been easier to use perhaps or is it unsuitable for the job in hand? For adding depth I mean, not for the model itself.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 01:06 pm
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MikeC
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Yes Bob I suspect it would be a LOT easier, but I'm afraid I have to use what I have available. I originally planned to use foamboard but that hasn't eventuated either, for one reason or another.
I've cut out a couple of the windows now, using the plasticard walls as a template, and although it's hard work I think the result will be quite good, without being a particularly high standard. I'll rely heavily on my paints to disguise things.

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 03:26 pm
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Perry
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Robert wrote:knowing nothing of the Plastikard scene Mike I must ask why you are using styrene instead of plain plastikard in the sandwich? Especially as the styrene sounds a bit difficult to handle.

Er....plastikard IS styrene as far as I'm aware. :?

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 03:27 pm
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Perry
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MikeC wrote:..............I'll rely heavily on my paints to disguise things.

Mike


Good plan; one of my favourite ploys! :roll: :wink: :lol: :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 05:02 pm
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owen69
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Perry,you are right plasticard here,styrene america,
i used to be confused on that one. :oops: :) :) :) 8)

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 05:40 pm
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Robert
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Mike seems to think there is a difference as he very specific in his post about Plastikard being too floppy, hence the use of styrene. I seek enlightenment.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 06:22 pm
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owen69
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Bob,when i started to fit knucle couplers all the sites i
visited said use styrene for packing etc,i was clueless
till i found an english site, it defined the difference,ie americans
call it styrene we call it plasticard. i think mikec is using the
wrong thickness plasticard hence floppy. :roll: :roll: 8)

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 06:33 pm
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Perry
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There is no difference. I use mainly Slaters 'Plastikard' for the embossed sheets and Evergreen Scale Models styrene sheet for the plain stuff.

The main reason I use these products is easy availability where I live.

It is the thickness that makes the difference in rigidity.

.040" = 1mm is pretty stiff unless one is using huge unsupported expanses of it. Likewise, long, narrow strips need bracing if they are to stay straight.

I use a selection of .005", .010", .020", and .040" thicknesses in the plain plastikard. I can laminate pretty much any thickness I need from those.

The embossed stuff is about .015" thick, generally speaking, and I tend to use .020" or .040" thick plain material to back it.

I think one needs to be prepared to design the model so that sufficient bracing can be incorporated during construction, otherwise it may well turn out 'floppy'. :roll:

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 08:21 pm
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MikeC
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Yes I wasn't saying plasticard isn't styrene, because I know it is, just making a distinction between embossed plasticard and the 1mm plain sheet [Evergreen]

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 08:26 pm
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Perry
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Understood Mike. :)

I was trying to 'enlighten' Bob at his request. I know he doesn't commonly use this material.

I would certainly agree that the embossed stuff is pretty 'floppy' and the 1mm plain sheet can take some cutting through! :shock: :D

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 10:11 pm
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Gwent Rail
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Mike, I also use the method of backing the embossed sheet with a thicker styrene (plain white) sheet.
Having cut out the pattern, including doors and windows from the white styrene, I then bond a sheet of embossed over it. Next I turn it over and cut out the openings for doors and windows using the white sheet as a template.

Incidentally, as demonstrated to me by Ken Ball (The author of the book "Modelling Buildings The Easy Way"), I bond the sheets together using double sided adhesive tape and not liquid poly cement. I find this helps to avoid warping and areas where the two sheets are not bonded properly.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 10:14 pm
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Robert
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I am fully enlightened thank you all. Both materials are the same, got it. I do get there eventually you know. :roll: :wink:



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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2007 10:39 pm
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MikeC
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:D :D :D

Jeff - many thanks for the tip - I'm going to need all the help I can get :)

That 1mm stuff is so tough that my elbow has had enough for now :cry:

Mike

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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 06:24 am
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Perry
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MikeC wrote::D :D :D

Jeff - many thanks for the tip - I'm going to need all the help I can get :)

That 1mm stuff is so tough that my elbow has had enough for now :cry:

Mike


....Then your knife isn't sharp enough and you're pressing to hard. Take lighter cuts but more of them. :wink: :D It shouldn't be hard work. :roll:

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 11:54 am
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MikeC
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With fresh blades things have become a bit easier, but it's not my cutting arm albow - it's the left elbow that complains when I hold the stryene tightly for cutting :cry:

Anyway, I've now cut out all windows and doors. After doing one wall in two separate pieces, I decided to glue the others together [much as Jeff suggested, although I cut them in the opposite order] after the relatively easy job of cutting all openings on the Slaters plasticard, and using each one as a template for the tougher styrene sheet.
Then I couldn't wait to see how it would look as a unit, so I propped it up as a house of cards and noticed a glaring error :x With side walls inside end walls, the thickness of the inner layer of stryene, visible along each edge of the end walls, showed as a white strip down each join. I realised that at each end of the side walls, the stone card should have overlapped the thick styrene on those side walls by the thickness of that visible styrene: 1mm. Even if I painted it to match, it would never have the same texture as the Slater's card.
Seeing as I had already glued Slater's card to Evergreen sheet, I had two options: make two new walls!! or carefully score away 1mm of styrene without removing or damaging any of the stone card that was stuck firmly to it. I chose the latter, and got away with it. Phew!
Now there's no white strip running down each corner, and stonework meets up with stonework. Or it will when it's glued.
No doubt this pitfall will be obvious to many, and maybe I should have foreseen it, but I didn't. I will next time :D
Here's a progress pic, with the walls balancing against each other.



I have some lovely thin styrene strips in 3 sizes by Evergreen that I'll use for window and door frames.

Mike

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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 12:50 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Knowledge gained by experience is never forgotten Mike. You can read all you want on how to do something, but actually doing it and seeing it develop yourself ......... Priceless

Wayne



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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 02:02 pm
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Bob K
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Mike

You could probably sort out any problems at the wall ends by adding decorative stone corners. This would be quite common with stone buildings. Just a thought :)

Bob(K)

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