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N Gauge - DD's First N Layout. MUCH WITTERING - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Mar 10th, 2010 07:23 am
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ddolfelin
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I'll spend some time today trying to 'flatten' it.
Then I'll bin it later I expect.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 10th, 2010 07:25 am
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Marty
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For some of us, modelling requires care and patience, and then on the other hand there are the RJR's and 87101's in the world whose speed is astonishing. We all tend to get there in the end.

Carry on, I'm looking forward to pictures.

(and sword duly wielded Don.)

Edited for spelling mistooks



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 Posted: Wed Mar 10th, 2010 07:58 am
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ddolfelin
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Thanks, Marty.

Unfortunately, I have nothing yet to photograph.
There would have been an interesting soundtrack when I discovered the warp this morning.

A crisis has arisen in the transport of vital supplies by the Black 5.
It is loaded up but has nowhere to go:

Attachment: Blak5.jpg (Downloaded 147 times)



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 Posted: Wed Mar 10th, 2010 09:43 am
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ddolfelin
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Full steam ahead!
Warp traced to a defective piece of timber.
(I bought the wood ready planed and one piece was out of square in section).
I thought I was better at woodwork than that!

So, one half of baseboard fit to receive gubbins.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 05:30 am
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ddolfelin
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At what stage in the laying of track would you solder droppers?

I should state that a soldering iron in my hand should come with a hazard warning as one or two Britains Zulus could testify (if they still had their heads).



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 05:58 am
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Bod
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I have always soldered droppers to the underside of the track on the workbench then worked out where to drill holes for them as I laid the track.

You could start now and spread the pain.

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 06:41 am
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ddolfelin
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Wow! Not sure I'd have the confidence to do that - the track seems to have migratory thoughts and getting it in the same place twice is something I've yet to achieve.
Do you drill a hole for each side of the join or just a bigger hole to take the loop? Or, as it's pre-soldered, are you connecting two droppers to a bus?

When I joined, they told me there were no silly questions.
I do feel I'm pushing the limits though.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 07:09 am
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Bod
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Four wires, one for each rail of the join.  They can be connected to a bus under the board or, if just used for continuity, connected to each other. You can strip the ends on the workbench too. Saves faffing around later and risking pulling the soldered connection off. The positioning of the drilled holes doesn't have to be too precise as they can be hidden with ballast later.

I'm sure there are other ways but this is my prefered method.

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 07:15 am
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ddolfelin
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Thanks, BoD - very helpful.

Whatever happened to plug and play?

I think I'll opt for large holes and ballast on the floor.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 07:26 am
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If you're going to the trouble of soldering droppers to the rails (which you should do), don't join the rails together, solder them to the bus.  Nickel silver rail has a poor level of conductivity compared to copper and can produce significant voltage drop over a relatively short run.

Pre-soldering droppers makes for a neater job - particularly as gravity is helping, but it takes a high level of skill to get the track to lay right if you are locked into predetermined dropper holes.  I've never mastered it and prefer to solder the droppers to the side of the rails once the track is pinned in position.

Practice on the black wires (the ones furthest from you), which won't theoretically be seen.  Once you have done 1000 or so your skill level will be up to doing the red ones.  :twisted:



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 07:37 am
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ddolfelin
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Thanks, Max.

"it takes a high level of skill to get the track to lay right if you are locked into predetermined dropper holes"
That says much for BoD's ability but I'm much better at soldering water pipes than mending watches.

Won't the blow-lamp melt the plastic? (weak joke).

Oh well - by the time I've finished all the wires will be black.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 07:46 am
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DonBradley
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BoD, are you saying that each piece of settrack requires FOUR wires? Surly this is overkill. I would think that two wires, one to each rail is totally adequate. Since we are dealing with settrack, soldering the wires to the underneath of the rail will be diffiult and to the outside of the rail will be OK. Remember too that the track is being laid in/on sponge underlay so threading the wire through the underlay will be unnecessarily difficult.

I'd go for presoldering the droppers to the side of the rails and only drilling the holes through the base when the rails are fixed in place. I'm not saying I am right, just that to me this is more practicable.

I hope that this only posts once, otherwise, get the secateurs ready!

 

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 08:00 am
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You are right Don, four is overkill, but (I think) DD was talking about connecting to the next section for continuity. Two droppers to a power bus is easier - you would not be relying on the rails for power continuity

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 08:31 am
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ddolfelin
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DD doesn't know what he's talking about.

I'm having great difficulties coming to terms with foam underlay.
I find it unrealistic and difficult to lay track on without squashing it out of shape.
That may be the first major re-think.
If so, ballasting between the sleepers in about 60' of N scale will keep me occupied for a while.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 10:11 am
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DD - your foam underlay - is it the type with sloping 'chamfered' shoulders? I have used that type, but after trying to ballast I found I got a better result by removing the shoulders, because as soon as ballast is laid on them it makes the shoulders higher than the rest, when what I really wanted was a narrow, horizontal strip beyond each sleeper's end, and then a nice gradual slope away from it.

I'll be soldering droppers soon, [heaven help us] so get into it, then I can learn from you :lol:

Mike

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 11:32 am
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ddolfelin
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I can't manage it at all, Mike.
What is embarrassing is that it was kindly donated by an esteemed member of this forum.
I have written to him cap-in-hand hoping for absolution.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 06:20 pm
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georgejacksongenius
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"Esteemed member???"............Moi?:cool wink(Flattery will get you nowhere!)

:mutley
Cheers,(Sloop)John.B.:thumbs

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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 09:07 pm
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ddolfelin
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You're too modest, Sloop.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 04:43 am
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Marty
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I lay track first, then drill down from alongside the rail, through the baseboard and then thread the dropper through the hole and solder to the outside of the rail. one dropper per rail.

I practiced soldering droppers to an old bit of track while sitting comfortably at my workbench before trying to do it on the layout.

Just the way I found easiest.
cheers



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 Posted: Fri Mar 12th, 2010 05:24 am
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ddolfelin
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Sounds easy to cover with ballast like that, Marty.
The hole would be very small anyway.
I don't have BoD's skill with track laying so the baseboard would end up like a pepper pot if I pre-drilled.

I have more track to buy before I can proceed (model shops are an expedition being so rural) so I'm building a small removable hill in the meantime - something for the tunnel and the canal to disappear into.



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