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Rough pasture - how to make it - Grass & Ground Cover - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 09:34 am
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Bob K
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PART 1

I was asked to explain how I produced the pasture on my layout. As can be seen from the photograph I tried to depict a typical field grazed by livestock. It consists of rough grass and clumps of weeds, with worn areas where the animals have walked and grazed:



Before I start it is worth pointing out what I use as a base material. I use expanded polystyrene sheet, either packing material or ceiling tiles. Plaster or filler is used to provide contours, smooth edges, and break up the totally flat areas. A point worth bearing in mind from the outset is: If you use expanded polystyrene it is important that you only apply water based or non solvent glues and paints. Model paints and many glues will melt polystyrene instantly.

For this project I am using a single tile and I will leave areas to show how the surface was built up.

The first thing to do is to provide a base coat on to the field area. The paints that I use are water based household paints, as they are cheap and you can get exactly the colour you want. I like a yellowish green. Many DIY stores have paint mixing facilities and they sell tester pots, which they will mix for you. I chose Dulux Indian Ivy2, but there are many other options:



Before the paint dries add your first layer of scatter material. For this project I used the following:

Javis Hairy Grass - spring mix.
Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf - light green.
Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf- Medium Green.
Woodland Scenics Clump Foliage- Medium Green:



The first layer to go on is the Javis Hairy Grass. I like the spring mix as it has brown running through the green and when you apply pva glue mix the brown is drawn through to create a good effect. Put on sufficient to cover all the painted area and set aside to dry. It takes 4-6 hours to dry. Do not try to rush this bit or you will end up with a runny green mess! :(



So set aside and go and do something else - don't poke it. It will be wet :!:


Bob-K

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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 09:37 am
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Robert
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A great start Bob-K, couldn't be any clearer.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 10:07 am
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MikeC
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Yep I reckon that brown really clinches it. I like your taste in green paint, too :D
An excellent how-to in progress, Bob-K.

Mike

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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 10:26 am
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Matt
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keeping a close eye on this one :wink:

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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 10:58 am
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Gwent Rail
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Thanks for going along with my request for a "how to" Bob(K), looks like it will be worth following :!:

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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 11:14 am
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Diesel
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Keeping a close eye on this also



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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 12:22 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Oh MY! Since I am just starting out with this hobby, I have nothing, and I mean nothing! Where do you store all this paint? .......
Still can't wait to get started :wink: :wink: :wink:

Keep them coming back Novice.

Wayne



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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 01:25 pm
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Les
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A first class post Novice, so very clear and easy to follow. Before you write any more I already know this is how I will be doing my pasture land.

We are all on tenterhooks now Novice. :wink:

Les



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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 05:23 pm
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phill
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Well just what the doc ordere, i can use this method when i start to do me slag hills, as coal dusty hills, brilliant mate, cant wait for the six hours drying time to finish.
Phill

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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 09:54 pm
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Perry
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I'm really impressed with your results, Novice. I will be keeping this in mind when I eventually reach the scenic stage on my layout. :? :D

Thank you.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2007 06:13 pm
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Bob K
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PART 2

With the paint now dry add a little more of the hairy grass, particularly on areas that appear thin. Also it is time to add some of the light green coarse turf. Place this in clumps to simulate weeds and areas of longer grass. Pat it down with a finger so to flatten it. Add some medium green coarse turf but in smaller quantities. This is where trial and error comes in and you may have to do this phase a few times until you are happy with the effect.

Next comes the fun bit. Soak the area with water using a fine spray. I use one of the household plant mist sprayers. Then you need to make up a mix of pva glue and water. I use about 1/3 glue to 2/3 water. I always add a very small drop of washing up liquid to help reduce the surface tension.



Apply the glue mix to the whole area of the field making sure of complete coverage. I use a teaspoon. It is not recommended that you use the finest silver spoons from you wife's best silver collection - she will not appreciate this. :) I also employ a small syringe where a more accurate application is required. The pre-wetting will allow the glue mix to spread and soak through the foliage:



Now the whole thing needs to dry. This will take at least 24 hours and is a process that cannot be hurried. Do not be tempted to do any further work on the project until it is completely dry.

Bob(K)

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 07:46 am
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Bob K
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PART 3

Another day has gone by and the field is now completely dry. The field looks a bit of a mess as the glue has drawn out the brown from the hairy grass:



Next add more coarse turf to build up the uneven surface of the rough pature. Use mostly light green, with a small amount of medium. Pat this turf down with a finger. Then drop pva mix on to the newly added turf. Once you have done this lightly sprinkle some more hairy grass on to the wet areas (you could use summer mix here if you wanted a greener effect):



Just by way of example I have also added a hedge row made out of the "clump foliage". Simply pull off pieces and stick in a row using copydex. When dry give the hedge a dry brush, using the same green paint that was used to provide the intitial base colour on the tile.



Allow the whole thing to dry. Here is the final effect. I have added a goat to give an idea of scale:





And that is how I did it. Clearly with a project like this the results will differ each time. It is a case of trial and error, adding material until you get the desired results.

Bob(K)

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 11:57 am
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Diesel
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That looks great Bob (k) going to file this one :)



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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 12:40 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Great job Bob, I will put it to good use.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 12:46 pm
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Gwent Rail
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Thank for taking the trouble to do that project Bob(K), I'm sure that there were a few of our number that had read how they went about doing the scenic work, but had never actually seen it done.
Excellent tutorial, well written and illustrated.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 01:04 pm
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Les
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Bob (K),

It looks fantastic and really is the business, I guess thats my pasture sorted then - a million thanks. :D :D :D

I need to take a copy of all this work so I will get on with cutting and pasting into Word (Got stuck with MWSnap3) unless Bob (FC) or a moderator can confirm that we have the facility to take prints from the site. :? :?

Les



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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 01:34 pm
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MikeC
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That's a terrific result, Bob, and very well illustrated.

Mike

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 02:08 pm
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phill
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Well a great thread Bob, i may just be able to use this method on my scene's in and around the steelworks, once i get started.
Phill

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 05:28 pm
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Tony
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Came in a bit late on this one.....great walk through of the process Bob!

I'm sure I will be re reading this sooner or later :)

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 Posted: Sat Nov 3rd, 2007 05:42 pm
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Gwent Rail
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Les, I may be misunderstanding your question here, but a far as photos go, there's no problem copying directly from the forum.
Just right click the photo and click on "Save picture as" and follow the on-screen prompts.
Text needs to be highlighted and then saved by using the "copy and paste" method.

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