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Perry's Great Eastern Goods Shed. - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:28 pm
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Robert
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Novice wrote:..........Quick question if I may regarding the roof tiles: Are these produced as strips by the manufacturer as shown in your pictures or have you made these yourself by cutting them from a sheet? If the latter how do you create the plain section on the strip?

Bob(K)


The sheets from Slater's are embossed with alternate plain and tiled rows. All I have to do is cut them up into 'paired strips', a quick and easy job with a steel rule and a sharp knife. :)

Perry



phill wrote:I know im going to get me whatsits chewed but here go's. About the roof being able to come off and on, i just wondered how you can change any things inside without a removeable roof, :D .
Ok go ahead and have a go but i think its a valued point but there again im just a novice so guess i should not be asking :?
Phill


You are certainly not going to get anything chewed off. It's a very valid question. 8)

I have considered that very point, Phill, and have made the platform itself removeable from beneath. :wink: I reasoned that making the roof removeable wouldn't be much help as all the trusses, lights and all the other bits and pieces would get in the way if I tried to access it from that direction. Now I can simply take the platform out, do what I want to do with figures and other details on it, then slot it back into place. No point in getting older if you don't get craftier! :wink: :roll: :lol: :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:29 pm
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Robert
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I decided to 'tile' the roof panels before I put them onto the building. It is much easier to align the strips of tiles with the panels laying flat on the workbench.



I estimate that there will be about 25 strips per side when the job is complete.



You can see here how the tiled part overlaps the plain part to give the full effect.

Perry



All the roof tiles, with the exception of the ridge tiles have been fitted. There were a total of 54 double strips, 27 per side, to be glued in place.

A little advice for anyone using this method:

Don't attempt to align the strips by eye. It is essential to mark guide lines on the supporting layer. If one thinks about it, if I were even 0.5mm out of alignment on each strip in my example, I could have ended up 13.5mm out at the ridge! That's a fat half-inch for those working in 'English money'! :shock: OK, that's probably never going to happen because it is such a large cumulative error that it would be noticed, but it illustrates how easy it would be to end up on the skew with the tops rows of tiles a few millimetres out of alignment.

When cutting the embossed sheets into double strips, I have found it easier not to use a steel ruler. If the knife is moved slowly and gently, with a minimum of pressure on the blade, it follows the embossed lines quite easily. In cutting 54 strips that were useable, I only spoiled 2 by wandering off-line with the blade. Work carefully and slowly and all should be well. I found that the embossed lines were not, if fact, very straight, so using a ruler could cause more wastage than not doing so.

I will now allow the roof panels to dry thoroughly before I do any more as quite a lot of solvent was used fitting the tiles.
Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:30 pm
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The embossed sheets of roof tiles are about 30cms x 20cms. The alternate rows of plain and tile run lengthways along the sheet. You are absolutely correct, Wayne; if you lay the strips I cut edge to edge, that is precisely what the whole sheet consists of.

Here is (very!) rough sketch of a small section of a sheet:



I've just realised I drawn it upside down. :oops: Obviously when gluing it to the roof panel the tiled strip goes towards the eaves. The next row of tiles then overlaps the plain strip of the preceding row.

An average sheet gives just over 30 double rows, each 30cms long.

Perry



The roof tiling has been finished and the two roof 'panels' were joined by glueing four triangular braces into the ridge area, making sure they wouldn't foul the roof trusses. The ridge angle was set at 117 degrees by these braces. These were left to set solid overnight before the roof was lowered carefully into place. The tiling had introduced a slight bow into the roof panels - caused no doubt by the amount of solvent used on only one side of each. I had set them to dry tile side down, with a weight on the top, but the .040" plastikard still managed to bow a little. However, it was not sufficient to cause a problem.

I had previously removed and discarded the guttering as I wasn't happy with it. I fabricated some more using .040" plastikard and a scraper as I have described elsewhere on this forum.

The guttering and roof assembly were fitted and secured with solvent.





The shed will now be left to dry thoroughly again. In the meantime I will fabricate the main 'inverted V' part of the ridge tile assembly and begin making the plain and fancy tiles I will need to set along the top of the ridge.

The assembly of the shed is now drawing to a close. I have to make and fit the gable end capping tiles, finish the gable end details, attach the canopy and the two sets of railside doors and make the chimney pots.

I may not attach the canopy and doors until after most of the painting has been done to make this process easier.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:31 pm
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The main part of the ridge tile assembly has been fabricated from a strip of .020" plastikard, 8mm wide. This was scribed along the centre line to locate the ridge bending line, then before bending it was scribed with tiles at about 4.5mm intervals. After being carefully bent down the centre line - VERY carefully, as I didn't want it to snap in half - I fixed it in place on the roof with solvent.

Some more narrow strips of .020" plastikard where then cut and the making of the vertical alternate plain and fancy tiles has begun. I need around 35 of each for the job, so will probably make around 50 of the fancy ones. That way I can quickly reject any I'm not happy with, without having to stop to make more. The plain ones are no problem, but the fancy ones have 2 holes drilled in them and the corners and a middle 'v' cut out to give the right shape. Very time consuming. :? :D

Perry



The vertical tiles are being fitted to the main roof one at a time:



Perry



All the vertical ridge tiles have been fitted this eveing and after a couple of hours making and fitting such small components I off to give my eyes a rest. :shock:

The capping tiles for the gable ends will hopefully get done tomorrow evening, along with the detail on the gable end overhangs. (I'm sure they have a proper name, but I'm no architect so I don't know what they're called. :? )

I'm going to have to figure out how to make those distinctive chimney pots too. I looked for some ready-made ones at Warley without success.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:32 pm
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Wayne Williams wrote:...............If you could Perry, I have a favor to ask. I had a friend of mine over last evening and was showing him your marvelous work, and he asked me just how big is it? So could you please take a picture with maybe your hand in the photo, or a ruler maybe, so he can get a feel for just what detail you actually put into this. (Actually me too)
........


Seeing as you don't know whether I have dainty little mits or huge shovel-like hands, I thought a ruler in the picture might be the best plan. :roll: :lol:

So here are a couple of images that might help to convey the overall size of the model:





By the way, the 'cut-off' window arch visible in the first photo is to allow the correct positioning of the canopy when it's fitted - and yes, the prototype does have the canopy cutting across that arch too. :shock: It makes me think that the canopy was added as something of an afterthought.

I hope these pictures help. :D

....and before anyone says it, yes, I KNOW it looks as though it has been built by someone with huge shovel-like hands. :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:34 pm
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Petermac wrote:..................... I often say, next time, I'll try to get closer to this model or that model. I never do but each is normally better than the last .................Petermac

Thanks for your kind words, Petermac.

As long as each model is a little better than the last then progress is being made. Better to make slow progress than none at all. If it was easy to get everything right first time there would be no challenge - nothing to keep the interest and enthusiasm going. It's feeling that something has been done a little better this time than last that makes it so worthwhile.

My hands aren't that steady and my eyesight isn't too good either, but I guess I do have a lot of patience. I don't consider that I have "immense skill" either. As I have said on this forum several times before cutting little shapes out of plastic sheets and sticking them together isn't difficult. Having the nerve to make a start is perhaps the most difficult bit. :wink:

Perry



I mark dimensions onto plastikard with the point of a knife blade. A pencil is way too thick and leads to inaccuracies.

If you are working in millimetres (which I suggest is the easiest) then lay your ruler on the material with the millimetre scale facing towards you. It doesn't matter if the numbers are upside down - you know what order they go in anyway! Then use the point of a sharp craft knife blade to 'prick' the material against the measurements you want. This is accurate down to about 0.5mm with practice. Aligning the knife blade with the markings on the ruler so that they form one straight line will help you achieve accuracy.

When you are ready to cut the material, you can 'feel' when the point of the knife is located in the mark you made, so slide the steel ruler you use to guide the knife gently up to it. Move the knife point into the second mark, slide the ruler up to it again, double check that the first mark is still aligned, then carry out your cut.

Measure at least twice - cut once. :wink:

Perry



All the roof tiles have been fitted. The gable caps have been fabricated from .040" plastikard and the small decorative round piece at the top of the gable end has been added.

I had been puzzling over how to make the 'corbels'; the decorative supporting blocks at the corners of the shed and the office. They can be seen here as the grey moulding beneath the brick-built 'blocks' at the corners of the building.



I suddenly realised that I had the ideal material for this in my tool box. It is a two-part epoxy putty called 'Milliput' that is very easy to work with. (I have put a link to the Milliput website in the 'Materials & Tools section.) I mixed up a small amount, pushed it into place, then trimmed it with a craft knife before moulding it to the shape I wanted with a small screwdriver blade.

The only part of the roof area still to do now is the top of the chimney stack. The two chimney pots need to be fabricated and mounted and because of the shape of them, I am considering making them from milliput too.



I'll post photos of the corbels and the chimney pots when they are finished.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:36 pm
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For such and apparently large building, it's perhaps a little surprising that it will only take three standard vans:



This came under discussion when I spoke to Bob at the Warley show. He thought it would hold around five, I believe. I think it's the width of the building that makes it so deceptive.

There a quite a lot of 'modern' fixtures on this building now, Wayne, including a telephone - presumably for the use of the Museum staff. There are what I assume to be security and flood lights and all manner of bits and pieces attached elsewhere, but obviously I won't be modelling them. The one concession I am making to the current appearance of the building is that I am including the pedestrian access ramp at the office end. In reality this wasn't added until 1996, but I like it and claim '"modeller's licence" - so there!   :lol:

Perry



The chimney pot assembly is almost finished part from final trimming to shape. I'll detail how I did them when I post some pictures.

The canopy has been fixed in place. I wasn't going to do it until after the painting of the shed had been done but have realised that two downpipes (drainpipes) run right through the canopy, so it must be fixed in place before the downpipes can be added.

Close examination of the photographs of the prototype show some downpipes, particularly those on the office, are partially or completely missing. I would like to think the the East Walsham maintenance guys are a little more conscientious and have replaced them. :wink:

So the construction of this project really is coming to an end now. After the downpipes have been fabricated and fitted it only leaves the main railside doors to add but these won't go on until after the shed has been painted. The access ramps will need railings fitted but they will be too delicate to risk having on the model whilst it is being handled for painting, so they can wait until last.

A final check around will be made after these jobs and a little tidying up done if required. I should then be ready to get the 4" paintbrush out! :roll:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:37 pm
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Here are a few statistics:

I have just weighed the completed goods shed on an accurate digital scale and it comes in at 390g. Allowing for the paint the whole thing will come in around the 400g or 14 oz. mark.

There are 360 image files on my computer that are connected with this project. Some are of the prototype, some are of the model during construction. Not all were used on this forum. Some are re-sized duplicates admittedly, but it's still a fair amount of work.

I estimate I used the equivalent of 5 or 6 standard-sized sheets of plastikard, both plain and embossed, a sheet of clear material for the windows, maybe the equivalent of a pack or two of microstrip and rod of assorted sizes, about one bottle of solvent, 6 LED's and resistors plus a couple of scraps of wire to connect them up and a few miscellaneous items such as pins, thread, filler, knife blades, etc. I would think that the entire job comes in at a little under �20 which to my mind compares quite favourably with some ready-made or kit-built buildings. Bear in mind though that I used small quantities of many different sizes and shapes of microstrip. I already had most of these in stock. It would cost a good deal more if one had to purchase a packet of each size as it was needed.

So you see, it isn't horrendously expensive to build something like this. The raw materials are reasonably priced and easily available too, so go, build yourself one! You know you want to. :wink: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Perry



If there is anyone out there who isn't heartily sick of the sight of this model yet, here are some views of it after construction has been completed. The main doors aren't attached yet and the railings haven't been added, but otherwise it's finished (apart from painting).

Firstly, as promised, here are the chimney pots I finished up with:



I cut a small piece of .020" plain plastikard to act as a base and covered this in some thinly rolled out Milliput to give the appearance of the mortar that the chimney pots would be set into.

The chimney pots themselved are made from short pieces of plastic tube covered with Milliput and then rolled, carved and filed into shape. A very thin piece of Milliput was rolled out and made into two small circles that later formed the lip on the top of each pot.

Here then are the pictures of the (just about) finished Great Eastern Goods Shed:











And finally a view through the doors:



The doors at the far end fell over just as I took the shot! :roll: :lol:

By the way, the shed isn't standing quite level because I've pushed the lighting wires out of sight underneath it and they are a bit springy! :oops:

Painting will be next, but I'm going to leave it a day or two before I start, just to be sure that I haven't forgotten anything that needs doing first. I also want a couple of fresh tins of paint that I can probably get tomorrow.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:39 pm
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I have really enjoyed this build. I'm looking forward to the paint job now, but like everything else on this model, it won't be rushed. I'll probably spend a day or two thinking about the order in which to paint things. Then, of course, my method of painting embossed plastikard uses several different coats of paint and drying time needs to be allowed for. I am hoping to have the job finished by the holidays, but failing that, it'll have to be by New Year's Eve! :wink: :roll: :lol:

I started planning this job on 21st September 2007 so it has taken three months from planning to completion. Well, I did tell you I like to take my time! :D :D

Perry



henryparrot wrote:...........what do you find is the best tool for cutting a radius?.................

Thanks Brian.

For cutting most radii I use one of these:

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=345&forum_id=19&highlight=compass


Perry



As some of you may know, I use a detailed 'To Do' list, or in fact several of them, when I'm working on a project.

I've just had another idea; a 'To Do Later' list!

The reason for this is that sometimes during a project it's convenient to leave part of an assembly or process to be done later. The problem with this is that it's all too easy to forget that one needs to go back and actually do it later! :?

I like to leave a model unpainted for a day or two whilst I have a good check around it with fresh eyes. First thing this morning I looked at the goods shed again and immediately found three jobs that needed doing! :shock: Two of them were 'To Do Later' jobs that I had forgotten.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:39 pm
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I was giving the shed a wipe over with a cloth dipped in warm water with a drop or two of washing up liquid in it - just to take off any grease and muck before painting when I found yet another job that should have been on the 'To Do Later' list. :shock:

I thought the gable ends didn't look quite right - and then I realised I hadn't fitted any flashing. I needed something like this:



So I took a piece of ordinary computer printer paper and cut a strip about 2.5mm wide from one edge. Using a sharp craft knife I cut little tiny triangles out of it. These were then fixed in place on the model by holding them against the plastikard and soaking them with solvent.





A dab or two of greyish paint on them and they should look OK. :wink: :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:41 pm
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Painting has begun with the main and office roof tiles getting three coats of paint each. I started off with a greenish-grey colour, then put a coat of medium grey on and followed that with a coat of bluish grey. Working quickly over the surface each time, I tried NOT to get too even a coverage of each colour. This should give a nice subtle variation across the fairly large expanse of roof. Once this is all thoroughly dry I will pick out various tiles individually with varying darker and lighter shades and also dry-brush some brick red colour around the ridge tile area, as per the prototype. Later I will give the whole roof a coat of thinned very dark grey - almost black - which will be wiped off again almost immediately, leaving traces of the darker colour in the grooves between and under the edges of the tiles to bring out the texture.

These stages of painting won't photograph well, particularly under tungsten lighting, so no more pictures yet, sorry!

Perry



These are all Humbrol matt enamels. Each coat is allowed to dry because it's the uneven colouring I want, not a mixing of the colours to one single shade. That's why I painted the three coats quickly and roughly; I don't want the roof to look all freshly tiled. I want it to look as though it's been there for years. All three coats were straight out of the tin as they only form the basis for further colouring with mixed shades. These will be thinned and darkened or lightened as needed.

Perry



Painting on the roof has continued with some brick red dry-brushed around the ridge area and a few of the tiles randomly coloured slightly different shades. These are a bit 'contrasty' at the moment, but the whole roof still has to have a wash of very dark grey to emphasise the tiles edges and to pull everything together tonally. I need to have a look at the current stage in daylight before I proceed any further becasue tungsten lighting can be very deceptive when it comes to getting colours right.



This is the effect I'm after, but it's a bit difficult to photograph adequately from ground level. :?



Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:43 pm
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Wayne Williams wrote:Perry, if YOU have to look at it in a different light to get the colors right, and YOU know what your looking for, how am I supposed to know if my colors are right?
I hope that question makes sense to you.

Wayne


I think you really answered this yourself when you said that I know what I'm looking for. When you think about it, the only person I really need to satisfy that the colours are 'right' is me! As you may have already seen, one of the 'unwritten rules' on this forum is: "If it looks right, it is right". Copying colours exactly from the prototype doesn't always work, simply because our models are so much smaller. This can affect the way colours are perceived. Some modellers only apply colour whilst using the type of light in which the model will be displayed. For instance, if an exhibition model is always displayed with it's own lighting, e.g. tungsten, then colours applied in daylight might not look right.

I don't want this to sound as though it is a difficult or technical subject. All I'm saying is that I want to be satisfied that it looks right to me. To be honest, I don't really care what anyone else thinks; it's my railway at the end of the day, so I'm the only one that has to be happy with it. :wink: :D :D

Don't forget modeller's licence too - you can paint things any colour you like. No-one here will tell you you're wrong! :roll: :D

Perry



Wayne Williams wrote:So basically your saying try it and if you don't like it ......
Can you change it?

This is sounding like a trial and error kind of thing. As you do it and view the results then the next project gets better. If this is true then starting small is a good idea, then work your way up to larger projects.

Wayne


Exactly so, Wayne. Just a couple of things to bear in mind though, it's a lot easier to make a change going for a darker shade than it is going lighter, so whenever you can, err on the light side initially. Also, remember that each coat of paint has a definite thickness and the more of them there are, the more detail can become obscured. (Sounds like Star Wars on here; 'Beware the Dark Side, Luke.....' :roll: :lol: :lol: )

Perry



Whilst again studying the photographs of the goods shed I realised that most of the guttering and downpipes on the prototype have been replaced with 'plastic' ones of a dark grey colour. However, the back wall of the office still has pieces of what I believe to be the original old cast iron guttering and downpipe attached. These are most definitely a glorious green colour!



That will make the building look even more attractive, I hope. :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:44 pm
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Thanks for your kind comments, Ken. :)

As work continues on the goods shed I am still finding little jobs that should have been on the 'To Do Later' list. :oops:

The brackets that support the canopy rest on some nice little corbels as can be seen in this picture:



I filed a radius onto some tiny pieces of plastikard and glued them in place to represent these.

By the way, the above picture shows quite nicely the window arch partially covered by the canopy mentionaed elsewhere in this thread. It appears that the canopy may have been added as an afterthought.

The other detail I decided to add were the joints at roughly 6 scale feet intervals on the downpipes. These were simply tiny pieces of paper fixed in place with solvent. They are not very obvious on the photo but should show up better when they have been painted, and perhaps 'highlighted' with a dab or two of rust-coloured paint.



Perry



Wayne Williams wrote:Perry,
OK, I have some questions :roll: This "To Do List" is it a written down on paper list? Is the list organized (if written) in an order of when it should get done?
and
Just how much effort should be put into a "To Do List"?

Wayne

PS: Can you tell I am an engineer?


To answer these questions in order:

1. Yes, the 'To Do' lists (plural) are written down. I find that if I break the project down into stages during planning, I can create a 'To Do' list for each section. It helps me arrange tasks into the most practical order and should help me remember everything that has to be done to complete a section before moving on to the next. I wasn't joking when I said a 'To Do Later' list would be a good thing. Little jobs that are set aside during constuction for whatever purpose should go on that list so they don't get forgotten entirely.

2. Put in as much or as little effort as you are happy with. It's your list. Maybe your memory is better than mine. :? I feel that any time spent on planning is time well spent. Ultimately it saves me time, materials and temper. :wink: I'm happy to spend a couple of days just thinking about the best way to do a job if need be. Often the first idea doesn't turn out to be the best one. :shock:

3. No. Should I be able to? :? :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:46 pm
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The roof, having dried really thoroughly, was ready for the next coat of paint.

So far, it has had three base-coats and some individual tiles picked out in varying shades, as stated in previous posts. This has left some of the 'gullies' between the tiles and the gaps beneath the rows of tiles a bit short of colour. I didn't worry about getting the base coats into all the little nooks and crannies as the next step will sort that out.

Using Humbrol matt enamels, I made a mixture of predominantly black, no.33, with literally a couple of drops each of white, no.34, and blue, no.25. The white takes the intensity off the black and stops it being overpowering, and the blue adds just that slight tinge of bluishness that the prototype has. These colours were mixed in one of my hi-tec paint pallettes (a milk-bottle top :roll: ) and then thinned with Humbrol enamel thinners. (Tip: don't risk using white spirit - use the proper stuff. It does make a difference.) I thinned it to a very watery consistency and mixed it with a brush. I find this mixes very thin paint better than cocktail sticks, etc.

I tested the mixture on the office roof first, as it is by far the smallest area and would be easier to rectify if the results weren't what I wanted. I brushed the paint on using a size 6 Prolene brush, working as fast as I could, but making sure that this time the paint flowed into all the 'wee liitle places'. :wink: It did this quite readily, being so thin. As the office roof is small, I just completed one side at a time, but the main roof panels were done roughly in thirds. The reason for not covering too large an area at once is that very thin paint such as this dries extremely rapidly - the thinners evaporates very fast - and I needed to deal with it before it was dry.

Once the thinned paint was on, I wiped it off again! :shock: :? I know, sounds daft, doesn't it? Using a piece of kitchen paper towel, I rubbed across the surface of the roof tiles, keeping it fairly flat. This took most of the paint off of the surface of the tiles but left it in the gullies and beneath the overhanging rows of tiles. Being so thin, it also allows the tiles that were picked out in different shades to show through, but stops them being so 'obvious'. Basically, the process pulls the whole lot together and finishes up looking like a tiled roof. (I hope! :oops: ) The effect is quite subtle and may not show up to full advantage in a photograph so I hope this description will help give some idea how it all works.

I'm going to leave this to dry properly overnight and start on the next stage of painting tomorrow evening. :D

Beware: if you try to carry out more work on an area that has been painted with very thin paint too soon, it WILL lift off again, probably taking the underlying coats with it. :(

Perry



Gwent Rail wrote:..............my standard is still not as high as I would like :!: ...

Nor is mine, Jeff. :( The only way I've found to achieve any improvement at all is the obvious one; keep practicing. I think if one can visualise the final effect sought, it makes it easier to head in the right direction. I believe that one of my failings (of which there are a great many!) during earlier attempts at painting was to try to get to the finish line too quickly, and taking too many shortcuts. If a single part needs 5 or 6 different applications of paint to get it to look right, then that's what it needs to get. I have a long way to go with painting but I enjoy seeing the model hopefully 'coming to life' beneath the paintbrush. :)

Perry



The painting of the roof is all but complete, with just a little retouching needed here and there. (On the' To Do Later' list! :roll: )

Window sills and gable end capping tiles have all had a coat of grey paint as a base for further work when dry.

Likewise, the gutters and downpipes have had a first coat of green. As the viewpoint will normally be from above roof level, there will need to be some 'muck' colour in the channels of the gutters, otherwise they will look too clean and new. There; you read it on this forum first: I even model the muck in the gutters!! :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:

The office and pedestrian access doors will get a coat of paint tomorrow, along with other small parts such as the corbels and the triangular fillets at the top of the gables. The wooden supports outside the sliding loading bay doors will also get a base coat.

As you may have worked out, I'm leaving the brickwork until last. Because of the structure of this building I happy that I can work on a smallish section at a time without the joins being obvious. This will make it easier to handle the model for painting without sticking my fingers all over the wet paint. To get a fairly standard brick base colour for the entire structure, I will mix a whole tinful of paint to the required shade first. That way there will be no further mixing part-way through, trying to match the shade I have already been using. :? If photographs of the prototype are studied closely enough, it can be seen that even the blue brickwork around the base appears to have a red 'undercoat'. It doesn't in reality, but I think the way to achieve the desired effect will be to paint all the brickwork in the reddish colour, then dry-brush the blue colour over the top later. I'm going to experiment with this on a scrap of embossed plastikard first, before using it on the model.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:46 pm
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I have carried out a very rapid experiment in preparation for painting the shed brickwork. It was done very quickly, without waiting for the various coats of paint to dry really thoroughly (naughty! :evil: ) but I only wanted to get a rough idea of what I need to 'tweak' before I set about painting the shed itself.

The following image gives an idea of the steps involved:



Stage 1 is a piece of 'raw' embossed plastikard, completely unpainted.

Stage 2 has had a coat of slightly thinned light grey paint applied all over.

Stage 3 has had the surfaces of the 'bricks' wiped fairly free of paint again with a piece of paper towel.

Stage 4 has been dry-brushed with brick red.

Stage 5 had been dry brushed with grey-blue over the brick red.

By waiting for the different coats to dry properly I should get a better-defined finish. The experimental one is a bit blurry.

When Stage 5 is completely dry, detail can be further enhanced by picking out individual bricks with different shades. Some ares of the red brick show very obvious darkening on the prototype and this will be replicated as far as possible on the model. For example:



Perry



The 'mortar coat' is thinned, applied as rapidly as possible, then wiped of immediately before it has a chance to dry. That's why, when working on the model, I will need to work on smallish areas at a time - otherwise it dries and can't be wiped off! :? One can paint over it, but I prefer to wipe it off so there isn't too much of a build up of paint thickness.

Perry



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I have been rather busy with other things today so I haven't done much work on the shed. :(

The doors, guttering and downpipes have had their final coat of paint. The base coat was quite a dark green and the top coat is more of a match for the colour shown on the photos of the prototype.

By painting downpipes,etc. now; i.e. before the brickwork, I don't have to be too carefull about getting the odd dab of paint on adjacent areas. These will all be covered up when the brickwork is painted.



The wooden structure beneath the sliding doors has been painted, along with corbels, fillets and window sills.

The pedestrian access ramp has been left as bare plastikard at present. It won't be painted until I'm ready to add the railings, and these won't be done until all the other painting is finished. They will be too fragile to risk breaking whilst painting of the main shed goes on.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 06:49 pm
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I have begun to paint the 'mortar coat' using a thinned pale grey enamel. This is applied quickly over a smallish area before wiping it off with paper towel. I did one 'bay' at a time as this gave me time to wipe it off before it dried too much. The wiping is made easier if the paper towel is cut into smaller pieces first; i.e., quarters. This coat doesn't need to be even as most of it is wiped off and it will all be over-painted with other colours anyway. It's just there to suggest that there is mortar between the bricks.



I'll do one wall at a time and allow at least 6 hours drying time, preferably longer, before any other painting is done.

This will take me up to Stage 3 of the process shown in a posting above.

Perry



Jackster wrote:Perry absolutely stunning piece of work and excellent description of how its done. I take it the original photos you took have been an invaluable source, how many did you take out of interest? Superb piece of work Perry am gobsmacked!

Kev


Thanks Kev.

Two ways to answer the same question; A: not enough :? , and B: about 80. :roll: :D

I have ended up with about 380 images in the folder dedicated to this project, including all the prototype and the model images, although some of them are just resized copies that were uploaded to Photobucket.

I really couldn't have managed without the photo's. The plans were drawn up using them and all the details were added as a result of what was visible on them too. I actually had to make a second special trip to the Museum to take a second batch as I realised that I had missed out some important angles and details. I won't make the same mistake again though. I will photograph EVERYTHING next time. :shock:

Perry



Gwent Rail wrote:One of our local modellers, who's work is of a high standard, has a slightly different approach to doing the motar coat.
His method is to paint the motar colour all over (like you, Perry) with a very thin wash and then let it dry. When fully dry, he then gives the surface a very light sanding with fine glass paper to expose the under-colour once more.
Having seen your method, I'm not convinced that his way is better :!:
I certainly think that it is a more difficult way to achieve a simular result :!:


I have read about such a technique, Jeff, but I am wary of applying anything abrasive to such a finely moulded surface. There's not a lot of depth to play with and I can be a bit heavy-handed at times. :? Also, in respect of the model I am building at the moment, there are too many recesses and projections to make sanding an easy prospect - and you know how I like to do things the easy way. :wink:

Perry



I have applied the 'mortar coat' to three sides of the shed, including the office, so there is one end wall left to do. As this coat is so well thinned I am leaving it ample time to dry really well before I start the dry-brushing, otherwise there is a real risk that the mortar coat may lift or mix with the colours being applied over the top of it.

I'm now looking at finishing this project completely by the New Year. With work, the holidays and paint-drying time to allow for, having it done by Christmas would mean rushing it and there's no way I'm doing that.

Something new to start on in the the new year would be rather appropriate, I think! :wink:

(And no, Phill - it won't be the coaling stage or your cooling tower - sorry! :roll: :wink: :lol: :lol: )

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 07:02 pm
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The brick red dry-brushed coat has been commenced. Bear in mind when you use this technique that it is a good idea to build up the required depth or strength of colour gradually. If you try to do it all in one coat, the paint will be going on too thickly and probably won't give the desired results.

I'll post a picture or two when I've made a little more progress.

Here's a little tip for people trying to paint around windows without making a mess.

Keep a few of the pieces you cut out to make the window openings. Glue on a little handle made from a scrap of plastikard and you have a quick and simple 'window shield' like this:





The little handle makes it easier to remove the shield without touching the wet paint,

These little devices really help keep paint off the window transparencies.

Perry



When the mortar coat was fully dry, a coat of brick red was dry-brushed over the whole surface of the walls, including the plinth that will be darker later. The reason for this is that studying close-up photos of the wall indicated that the greyish-blue plinths still appeared to have a reddish shade to it in many areas. I therefore needed this and the mortar coat to show through.

Here's a reminder of how the prototype looks:



And here is the current state of the model:



The plinth has also had it's first coat of greyish-blue paint dry-brushed over the brick red.

This initial coat only needed to be put on fairly quickly without too much regard to little corners etc being missed.

The next step, after allowing drying time, will be to apply some much darker brick red colour to areas that appear darker on the photos.

When all this is dry I will go over the model a small sections at a time completing all the areas that need retouching and adding more shades to various bricks to make it look less 'even'.

Obviously the pedestrian access ramp still need finishing and painting, but there really isn't too much more to do to complete the project now. :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 07:07 pm
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The completion target of finishing this project by the end of the year is now achievable. :D I'm not incuding the pedestrian access ramp in that target as that can be sorted out later. The main thing was to get the building itself finished.

I spent some time this morning addding the darker red shade over the brickwork, again using a dry-brushing technique. I used photos of the prototype to indicate the areas that needed darkening. Over the next hour or two I shall be going over the model with a fine brush, picking out the odd brick here and there in different shades, as well as doing any little retouching jobs to things such as the downpipes and gutters.

This evening I will take some photographs of the completed model and post them on here. With any degree of luck you won't have put up with the goods shed saga much longer 'cos it's nearly finished! :roll: :lol: :lol:

Perry



Once I have finished posting a few pictures later today, I doubt very much if I will add to it. In fact I might lock the thread in a few days time, depending on what 'The Boss' thinks.

The goods shed may well be mentioned later when it gets permanently installed on the layout, but that's about all.

Perry



With the exception of answering any questions resulting from this post, this will be the last part of the saga of how I scratchbuilt a model based on a prototype Great Eastern Goods Shed situated at the East Anglian Railway Museum, near Colchester, Essex.

It has been something of a marathon, for which I apologise. :oops: However, it has been the support and encouragement of the members of this forum that has brought the project to what I hope is a succesful conclusion.

The final painting was just a case of adding light and darker shaded of colour to thos already on the model, using photographs as a reference. If I learned one thing from this project, it was that one can never have too many photographs of the prototype. Truth be known, I have learned a huge amount about scratchbuilding as this is the most ambitious scratchbuilding project I have ever undertaken.

There are one or two places on the model that still need a dab or two of paint; for example, where the main doors are attached. This will need retouching when the polystyrene cement is properly dry. No doubt I will also notice a few other little jobs that need attention too, including the finishing of the ramp, but for now, the job is complete.

Here is a reminder of what I set out to model:











So, without more ado, here are the final photos:













...and in place on the layout:









I will post a picture of two once it is landscaped in and the lighting has been hooked up to a power supply, but that's a way down the road at present.

I hope you enjoyed following this thread as much as I have writing it. :D

The End.

Perry



The whole project has taken two-and-a-half months and I would estimate somewhere in the region of 200 hours from start to finish - not including time spent documenting it on this forum. (It's a world exclusive, I hope you realise! :roll: :lol: :lol: )

There are now 410 digital images in the folder dedicated to the project, including those re-sized for Photobucket, etc.

I used perhaps the equivalent of 6 sheets of plastikard, including embossed and plain. The equivalent of 2 or 3 packets of microstrip and rod were used. The whole model consumed about one bottle of solvent, and the equivalent of perhaps a couple of tins of Humbrol paint.

I doubt if the actual cost in materials used came to more than �20 - �25. For that cost I have a model that is absolutely unique. I have learned a huge amount and gained the confidence that I will be able to do better next time.

Perry


I have been very touched by everyone's kind comments in relation to this project. Thank you all very much. I know I have said this before, but without the support and encouragement of the members of this forum, I doubt if this model would ever have been finished. It was a bit scary sometimes, coming into the room where I build these projects and finding it still sitting there, unfinished. Two and half months it sat on the bench and although I did something to it most days, progress seemed, to me, painfully slow.

I looked it over with a very critical eye today. :( There are certainly things I could have done better or perhaps done in a different way. I have also said before, elsewhere on this forum, that there is no 'right way' or 'wrong way' to carry out projects such as this. There is only the way that works for the builder.

I have also said elsewhere that the building of this goods shed was not difficult. I stand by that, and I firmly believe that most, if not all, the members of this forum, could achieve similar, if not better, results. All it takes is the will to succeed, time and patience. It's not a 'Black Art', nor am I a 'highly skilled, talented modeller'. I'm just an ordinary, average sort of chap who simply tries his best. It's nice to see some other scratch building projects starting to appear on here, and I hope to see many more.

I will leave this thread open for a few more days in case there are any further questions regarding this project, after which it will be locked.

Thanks again. :wink:

Perry



A final thank you to everyone for their support and interest on this thread, which is now locked.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 07:09 pm
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This is me again, the Fat Controller. That's it then folks and worth every minute I have spent on it. A big vote of thanks goes to our host Jim because without him it wouldn't have happened.

Cheers Jim.



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