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Perry's Great Eastern Goods Shed. - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:55 pm
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Robert
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The bracing supports beneath the platform have been completed and the steps at either end are being built as per the picture shown above.



Perry



With the steps installed and the doors and platform placed into position, it's easier to get an idea of how the whole thing will look.



The view from above:



I'll get some paint slapped around inside to disguise the inside of the doors and windows, and Bob's your Fat Controller! :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

P.S. If the walls look curved, it's down to my poor photography - they're not really! Honest! :oops:

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:57 pm
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Wayne Williams wrote:Perry,
Can you elaborate a little on the amount of planning you did before you began actually building the model? Like what kind of drawings, if any did you do? I know you took pictures of the actual building, but after the pictures what did you do?
This is really looking good, I'm :mrgreen: with envy :!:
Wayne


After taking the photos and some basic measurements of the prototype, I did some very basic, and I mean very basic, drawings of the four main walls of the shed and the three walls needed for the office. These drawing were done using a very simple Computer Aided Design (CAD) program that I got free with a computer magazine many years ago. I didn't need to do this; a simple pencil and ruler would have sufficed but I like messing about on computers. :wink: All I needed was length, height and positions of doors and windows. A lot of the calculations were done by counting bricks on the photos. Given that I knew the size of one brick, everything else was straightforward.

Planning is a different matter though. I spend quite a lot of time just thinking about how I'm going to do the next task in the build and write down lists of 'things to do'. This helps because it gives me a chance to put things in sequence, for example, it makes sure I don't paint something that I want to glue another part to later, saving me the trouble of scraping off the paint again. Perhaps not the best example, but I hope you get the idea.

Perry




owen69 wrote:straight as a die no prob, bottom step iffy..............


So was the prototype! :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Perry




Progress this evening was a little slow. I checked some items I had made previously consisting of 2 units with just over 20 small pieces of plastikard in each and really wasn't happy with them. There was a small error I hadn't noticed when I built them. :? They went straight in the recycle 'bin' and new parts were fabricated. No messing about. :evil:

The main problem with using unsatisfactory pieces is that although other people may not notice initially, the builder will always know the fault is there. If someone later looks closely at the model, the builder will be thinking, "I hope they don't notice that". :oops: Better to spend an hour or so now putting it right before any further assembly is carried out. :wink:

Never mind, I'm happy with the new ones so perhaps there will be a little more progress tomorrow evening. :D

Perry




I'm now moving into the detailed planning phase of the main roof construction. As the two sides of the main roof are each roughly 27 cms x 9 cms (10.5" x 4") they will need a fair amount of support.

I am considering making roof trusses from some square-section styrene in a similar design to those on the prototype. However, once the roof is on, they won't be visible, so we come back to the old saying; if you can't see it, don't model it. They would be a big construction job and I can't help feeling the effort would not be justified in the end result.

An alternative is to make them from .040" or even .080" plastikard sheet and just to cut out some pieces to suggest the shape of the trusses. They would certainly be stronger than ones made from bits and pieces glued together. See? I've just about talked myself into using this method already. :wink:

I will almost certainly make a mock-up of the roof from ordinary card before I commit the more expensive plastikard to it, just to make sure it will all fit together nicely.

I have made the two main gutters that run the length of the shed by using a scraper on some strips of .040" plastikard. They have been made purposely overlength and will be cut to fit at the appropriate time.

I will use Slaters embossed roof tiles cut into strips to match those already on the office roof.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:58 pm
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I have run a little short on .040" plastikard as my local model shop is currently out of stock. :evil:

The roof trusses must therefore wait a little longer, so I have decided to make a start of the canopy.

The main 'carcase' of the canopy is a simple plate of .040" plastikard 135mm x 38 mm. Three sides have 8mm strips of the same material cemented around them on edge, giving the general 'box' shape of the canopy.

I then set about finding a way to come up with something that will look like this around the edge; the valance:



I eventually decided to use some 1mm x 2mm microstrip as thinner material distorted too much when it was drilled.

So the first stage was to drill a hole near the end of the strip using a 1mm drill bit in a pin vice:



I then cut across the hole, just under half-way across the diameter:



The alternating strips have curved ends so these were trimmed roughly to shape with the knife. They can be touched up with a file later:



To see if the final effect was going to be acceptable before I cut the rest, I laid up a few on the cutting mat, not very well aligned I'm afraid :oops: ,just to get a rough idea:



I will need slightly in excess of 50 of each type of strip, plain and drilled, to give me sufficient to glue round the outside of the carcase. :wink:

Even if the parts look a little uneven in the photos, it shouldn't matter too much once they are assembled, painted and seen at normal viewing distance. I think they will give the appearance I want. :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:59 pm
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Stop Press!! :roll:

I have just found a quicker, more accurate and altogether better way of making the round-ended parts. Instead of trying to trim them with a knife, after cutting to length I give one end a couple of gentle strokes across a piece of sandpaper, rotating it slightly as I do so. End result? Nicely curved ends! :D :D

Perry



I completed the valance around the goods shed canopy this evening. I guessed I would need about 50 of each type of edging and it turned out I wasn't far out; I needed 51 of each!

I purposely made the edging look a little 'rough' and uneven as it does on the prototype. I didn't want it to look too 'new'. A bit of weathering when it's painted will help the effect.

Here is the original:



and here is the result:



The brackets that support it will probably be next. :wink:

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:00 pm
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Thanks all. :oops:

I started making the four brackets needed to support the canopy this morning.

The prototype looks like this:



Although the photographs show the parts on a cutting mat for clarity, the brackets were actually constructed on a sheet of glass. It keep them flat and stops them sticking! :wink:

I constructed the right-angles from 1mm x 2mm microstrip, then added .020" triangular braces in the angle.



Another piece of 1mm x 2mm was rolled gently around a craft knife handle to curve it roughly to shape, then one end was glued in place and allowed to dry before the free end was trimmed to length and also glued.

Close examination of the photos showed that the side braces are fitted outside the frames in an opposing pattern. They were fabricated from pieces of .020" x .030" strip, cut slightly long, then glued in place before being trimmed to length.



Perry

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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:01 pm
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Marty wrote:There'd be just no way I could do that amount of detail in N scale, oh well, too late now. "Nice" Perry.

Surely that's one of the advantages of N scale, Marty? It's detail you don't need to bother with because it would be too small to see. Instead you have the opportunity to build sweeping vistas of scenery that I have no chance of being able to incorporate in OO - no space! :roll:

Perry




Looking at it now that the valance is finished and the brackets are built, I'm a little concerned that I have incorporated more details into this canopy than are really needed. Once the shed is on the layout I don't think it going to be easy see the brackets unless you're a contortionist! :shock: :? You may recall me saying before, if you can't see it, don't model it? Well I think I have 'bent' my own rule a little with this project, but I am enjoying building it so much that it doesn't seem to matter.

A total of 56 pieces of plastikard make up the four brackets and they still need their quarter-roundish shaped pieces at the bottom of the vertical struts. Still, that will make them up to a nice round figure of 60 parts for the set! :roll: :lol:

Perry



Are we going to get rich, Jeff? :roll:

I have completed the canopy as far as I can until it is mounted on the shed later. The brackets will need to be painted before they are glued in place, as will the underside of the canopy.

I stood the brackets roughly in position to show how it will look, so they are not perfectly aligned yet:



I hope this bears at least a passing similarity to the prototype given the limitations of the material - and the modeller! :shock:

Now, what's next............................. :wink:


Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:03 pm
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There's probably not going to be too much to photograph for the next day or two as it's now a case of preparing the various sections of the model for assembly.

I have measured the angle of the ridge of the roof at 117 degrees so I will now be able to put in the end supports for this. I'm still cogitating over the construction of the roof trusses. I am torn between building them from square section plastic tube and cutting them out from .040" sheet.

I have discarded the sets of guttering I made before as being substandard and have made some new ones. I'm happier with these, fortunately. The old ones have gone in the spares box. Waste not, want not! :wink:

Meanwhile, back at the ranch.....

I have started slapping a base coat of Humbrol No. 70 brick red over the inside of the walls as it wouldn't be easy to get a brush in there after the two wall sections are joined. I'm not planning a great deal of detail inside, just sufficient to look convincing when peering through the doors or windows. Quite a lot of painting will be done prior to assembly - a bit like the old Airfix kit days. :D Things like the canopy brackets and the canopy itself need to be painted before they are fixed to the shed. The internal platform and steps also need a coat of paint before being fixed in place, so all in all, there is a lot to do before the next major part of the build takes place - which is, of course, the main roof with all those lovely fancy ridge tiles to make and glue in place. :wink: I'm really looking forward to doing them because in my opinion they are one of the features that give the shed such a distinctive appearance. According to my notebook there are 34 plain and 33 fancy tiles along the ridge of the prototype - (yes, I know, how sad; I counted them!) - so it will be interesting to see how close I can get to those figures on the model.

Perry



On the platform inside the goods shed is a rather nice crane or hoist. The base is attached to the platform and the top is attached the roof trusses, so that it can swivel round.



I know it won't be very visible once the roof is on, but I couldn't resist building one. :roll:

I set to with some 3mm square section plastic tube and built the upright, the cross member and the angles support beam. I then used tiny pieces of plastikard from the scrap box to fabricate thevarious parts of the mechanism.

The six-spoked large pulley wheel at the top had me puzzled for a few moments, but a slice cut from an old plastic container gave me the rim. Then I fashioned a small circle for the hub by trimming a small square of plastikard until it was fairly round before drilling a small hole in the middle.

I then laid the hub and the rim of a sheet of glass and added spokes from microstrip, one at a time.

I used thin plastic rod as 'axle bearings' for the various parts that needed them, drilling holes as appropriate and threading the parts on before glueing them all up.

The paint job still needs to be finished and eventually a piece of 'cable' will be added from the winch, around the main pulley and out over the end of the arm pulley.





The top and bottom bearing plates will be added when the crane is installed in the shed, so that I can build them to fit the exact height of the location.

The photos were taken with the crane stuck onto a piece of Blutak and I'm afraid it isn't vertical :oops: but I think it gives a general impression of what the finished piece will look like.

I hope this gives some idea of the versatility of plastikard. Scratchbuilds don't need to be big or expensive. This one cost me next to nothing. :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:05 pm
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From some angles the crane will just be visible through the doors and windows so I felt I had to include it. Apart from that, I just liked it and thought it was a good way to pass a few minutes using up some scraps of plastikard.

I will bear your suggestion of having "something dangling from it" :wink: :lol: in mind when I come to fix it in position. :D

Perry



These 'blue' bricks are a very distinctive feature of this building, Bob(K) and have been incorporated by the builders in a decorative manner. I have to admit I have no idea why this was done, except for the aesthetic effect. There aren't enough of them to make it something that was done for strengthening purposes. I'm looking forward to trying to recreate the effect with paint.

Perhaps someone with more knowledge of railways and brickwork than I can 'shed' (sorry) more light on it?

Perry



The painting of the inside of the shed is proceeding slowly.

I have begun painting the platform floorboards. I 'half-mixed' a combination of a medium matt brown with a little white and an even smaller amount of black. Black is very strong and doesn't need much to over-darken a colour, so care is needed. The reason I use the term 'half-mixed' is that I try not to mix the colours evenly. What I want is a streaky mish-mash of tones rather than a nice even colour. A few drops of thinners were added to make the resultant paint mixture flow off the brush. With an area about 26 cms x 11 cms to cover quickly I didin't want to have to overwork the paint.

Then comes the 'making it look like wood' bit. :wink: I added some more black to the remaining paint and thinned it down a lot more. This mixture was then brushed onto the still-damp first coat, working along the length of the 'floorboards'. Having covered about a quarter of the area I very gently dragged a piece of paper kitchen towel over the paint, barely touching it, again along the length of the boards. This left dark paint in the joins between the floorboards and created a woodgrain effect on the surface. I could only do about a quarter of the surface at a time, otherwise the paint dries too quickly and wiping tends to pull too much paint off.



The photo gives a reasonable idea of how it looks, but I feel the actual effect on the model looks better.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:06 pm
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I'm battling impatience now as I want to get the inside finished so that I can do the main assembly. :? Still, I must make haste slowly, otherwise I'm sure to mess something up. :shock:

The inside of two of the walls have been painted, along with the platform and the crane, so another couple of walls and odds and ends and I will be there.

I have decided to build the roof trusses properly, using square section plastic tubing, rather than cheating with cut outs from plastikard sheet. There are five of them to make so perhaps a small cardboard jig would be worth constructing to ensure uniformity of angles, etc. It will add �3 or �4 to the total cost but I think it will be worthwhile.

When I come to build the roof, I am considering installing LED lighting but a final decision hasn't been reached yet.

So all in all, there's still quite a lot to do on this project. I hope everyone won't get bored with it before I finish! :shock: :D

Perry



I'd better get on with this shed then! :roll:

Painting of the internal walls, the inside of the doors, canopy brackets and guttering continued this evening.

I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but for anyone new to this lark I'll mention it again; almost never use pure black paint straight out of the tin. It's too black. The problem with painting models is that colours and finishes don't always emulate the prototype. Try painting a model house door with gloss paint and you'll see what I mean. It is way too shiny. The gloss is 'out of scale'. We are trying to deceive the eye into believing a model is the real thing so we have to 'cheat' a little sometimes. If you really must have a 'freshly painted' look, using a satin finish on the door will look much more convincing than full gloss. Likewise, black paint is visually too strong and will overpower everything else. I like to take the edge off my black with a touch - just a touch - of white, making it a very dark grey. Even the tyres of model vehicles look 'wrong' if they're painted black. Paint them dark grey and you will see a tremendous improvement. Try never to have just one tone of a colour. Very few things in the real world look evenly coloured all over due to the action of the weather, prevailing light conditions and a dozen other factors. That is why the mass-produced injection moulded buildings such as the old style ones from Hornby, always look bland and characterless. It's also why a coat of paint or two and a bit of weathering makes such a difference.

So next time you start to paint something, consider your base colour, but then work other shades and tones into it. You'll be pleased you did! :wink: :D

Perry



The interior of the loading bay doors got their first coat of paint this evening, along with the rail-side doors. I gave them a coat of a medium matt brown and will add thin washes to accentuate the scribed 'planking' and to give the appearance of wood grain. I painted the hinges a very dark grey whilst I was at it because the washes will tone them down and make them look more a part of an oldish door, rather then new hinges bolted on afterwards.

I cut two small sections of 'I'-beam plastic to form the beams that are situated above both the loading bay doors. These have been painted very dark grey too prior to be glued in place, because they would be very difficult to paint afterwards due to their awkward shape. I left the paint off the small areas that will be glued.

I have been giving consideration to the painting of the loading bay canopy. A close look at my photos suggests that the paint was once white, but has yellowed slightly with age and exposure to the weather. I have decided to paint the canopy in a very pale grey to start with. When this is dry, I intend dry-brushing with white with the merest touch of pale yellow added, allowing some of the grey to show through in places. I'm hopeful that this will give a convincing result. If it doesn't I'll resort to Plan B - whatever that is! :roll: :wink:

More piccies soon!

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:08 pm
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The roof trusses of this shed are of a rather interesting design. One can just about be seen behind the crossed mount for the upper part of the crane:



The timbers are braced with metal rods and brackets.

I worked from sketches made on site and worked out the approximate angles by eye. The model trusses are based upon 5mm square section plastic tube, 2.5mm x 4mm strip and .030" rod. I drew out the plan on a piece of card and laid the parts on it to mark for cutting and glueing angles, etc. The black metal brackets on the prototype will be represented by painting them on later.



One down, four to go! :wink:

Perry



MikeC wrote:......... You must be itching to assemble this brute....

Mike


Thanks for the kind comments, Mike.

Yes, I'm getting a bit fired up now as all the major components are gradually being finished as far as they can be prior to final assembly. :)

I'm learning all the time as I build and little things like the painting of the hinges I have sometimes not done in a satisfactory manner on previous models.

I reckon this build will be finished by Christmas - I'm not sure WHICH Christmas, but still....... :roll: :lol: :lol:

Perry



Things haven't moved along quite as quickly as I would have liked as I seem to have been roped in to help with some domestic redecorating. :shock: :(

Still, I managed to get a few minutes work in on the shed this evening and finished the fabrication of all five roof trusses - apart from painting.



They were absolute pigs to build! :evil: For something that looks so simple, cutting all the angled joints was, well, tricky to say the least, and to get the straining rods to the correct length within what seemed like a micron or two was, er, rather trying. I constructed the trusses over a plan drawing I prepared on a piece of card beforehand, giving me a least a fighting chance of getting them as near to identical as possible.

Anyway, they're built now, so I can move on. I'll leave them to dry thoroughly until tomorrow evening, then paint them. If I have time I will then finish the interior painting too.

Perry



Marty wrote:................[size=9]What I want to know is... how many failed trusses ended up in the recycle box

Amazingly, none! I binned no more than two or three of the shortest angle pieces because they weren't up to standard, but otherwise there was virtualy no waste. :lol: :lol:

Building them over a drawn plan really helped. :wink:

Perry



I didn't get too much done on the model this evening due to some more domestic decorating duties getting in the way. :(

However, I think all the interior painting on the shed is now complete. I'll check once more when the painting I did this evening is dry. I'm now getting very close to being able to assemble the wall units.

The railside doors got another coat of paint as well; just a well thinned coat of base brown with a dash of black, brushed over quickly and then most of it wiped off again with a paper towel. There's still a fair bit of paintwork still to do to finish them though, and they will need to finished before being glued in place. The thinners removed a few flecks of the base coat here and there, but the more worn and used the doors look, the better. I'm not going for a smooth freshly painted look.

I then mixed up a very light grey paint and gave the canopy valance and interior a rough coat. I want this to be a rough, uneven coat, because it will work better when I dry-brush the yellowish-white over the top of it. I even remembered not to paint where the supporting brackets will be fixed. :roll: :D

Perry



I think I shall tackle the painting of the brickwork once it is all glued up solid with the roof on. Being a largish building I want it to be as rigid as possible when I come to handle it for painting. I can do without having to do repairs before it's even finished. :(

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:11 pm
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More painting took place 'ageing' the railside doors this evening. They are now nearing completion.

The canopy has been painted and the brackets fixed in place.

This is the prototype:



First the inside of the canopy and all the valance was given a rough coat of very pale grey.



The top surface was painted a very dary grey to simulate the roofing felt used on the prototype. This will gradually be 'dirtied' to lessen the uniformity of colour.



After allowing drying time, the inside of the canopy and the valance were then dry-brushed with a very pale yellowish white colour, trying to leave it looking patchy and weather-beaten. This doesn't show up too well photographed under tungsten lighting, unfortunately.

The brackets were fixed in place using tube cement applied with a cocktail stick. This leaves enough time for small adjustments in position to be made, whereas liquid solvent 'grabs' almost instantly.



Some of the valance boards were given a dry-brushing with pure white, just to increase the range of tones. Some dark green was dry-brushed on in a few places to suggest algae growing where the wood was damp - and probably going rotten. :? I can't imagine the valances on these sheds got repainted too often!



In a spare moment today I wrote a 'To Do' list of jobs needed to finish this project. It's still quite long....... :shock:

Perry



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All the walls were glued together last night. It's finally starting to look like a goods shed rather than a random collection of sub-assemblies. :D



Perry



I constructed a cardboard mock-up of the base layer of the roof this afternoon, partly to make sure everything would fit together properly, but also to save Plastikard if I made a mistake. Plastikard is cheap enough providing not too much gets wasted. :shock:

I drew out a rectangle of card with the overall length equal to the length of the main walls and measured the sides to within a few millimetres of what I thought I would need to reach from gutter line to gutter line via the ridge. I made certain that the card roof was drawn and cut out perfectly square to test the accuracy of the build so far. I marked out and cut two triangles from scraps of card which would give me the 117 degree angle I needed for the slope of the roof. These were glued inside with a general-purpose adhesive for quickness.

The whole thing was then unceremoniously plonked on top of the shed. It fits to within a millimetre or so, so I'm reasonably happy with that. :D



Before the final measurements are committed to Plastikard, I need to check that allowances made for the gutters and the thickness of the roof tiles are acceptable. I'd far rather do any adjustments now in card than have to remake the whole roof later.

The canopy obviously isn't fixed yet, so I've propped it up roughly in position on a couple of paint tins just to check the overall effect.





Now I need to get the roof trusses painted and fixed in position. :D

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:14 pm
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Novice wrote:.............Now you just have to paint it :!: :lol:

Bob(K)


If that's all there was to do I'd be laughing, but the 'To Do' list is still fairly lengthy. :shock: It's coming together though and it would be a mistake to try to rush it now. :)

Perry



As Bob(K) said, I need to get on with some painting, so I finished the detail painting on the roof trusses this evening.



It would be very difficult - nay, almost impossible :shock: - to carry this out once they are glued in place.

Perry



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Before the roof base layers and tiles can be fitted, the gable ends need to be built up to their correct thickness.

I did this by laminating some 4mm x 2.5mm thick strips of plastikard together and gluing them inside the existing gable end wall. Another layer of brick embossed plastikard was then added - brick side outwards, of course - to the 'inside' of the laminations. This give me a gable thickness in the region of 6mm.





Obviously the capping tiles have yet to be added but they can't go on until after the roof is 'tiled'.

I used some scraps of plastikard from the bits box and fabricated the remainder of the chimney stack. The prototype has four 'steps' at the upper end and a final stack on top of that which is larger than the stack lower down. If that doesn't make sense, take a look at the photos and hopefully uou will see what I mean.





The chimney pots on the model are only there to give a rough idea of the finished article. The prototype pots are tapered and have a lip around the top so they will have to be specially made.

Also, the solvent wasn't completely dry when I took these pictures, so final trimming and 'squaring up' of the chimney stack hasn't yet been done.

Had I not planned this build carefully, one of the pitfalls might have been cutting the roof panels too soon. By doing things in the order I have, I can now ascertain the required dimensions very easily. I can also fit the lead flashing before the gable capping tiles and the roof tile layer goes on. :wink: :D

I haven't yet decided yet whether to attach the roof trusses to the walls or to the roof panels first. I have been a little crafty insofar as I have not glued the platform in place so it will lift out to allow access to the roof from below.

Perry



I took another photo of the chimney stack from the footbridge; much further away, but a good deal higher. :)

The chimney pots are an 'interesting' shape. :?



There's no rush to fit them to the model so I'll keep a look out for any suitable materials over the next few days. I suppose I could make them from Milliput around a plastikard tube former if need be. The mortar on the very top of the stack that the pots are set in to will probably made from that material anyway.

Perry



Novice wrote:Perry

I have never seen pots that shape before :? . they look like large upturned flower pots or buckets - that may be a solution :idea: . I look forward to seeing how you solve this one.

Bob(K)


So do I.  :shock: 

Work is continuing this evening. The double and triple stringer courses at the top edges of the main walls have been added. These couldn't be done before the gable end thickness was sorted out. The gutters have been set in place. I will finish tidying the little 'overhangs' at each corner of the building and then set the whole lot aside to dry until tomorrow. Then it will get a good check over in case I've missed or forgotten anything before I start work on the roof itself. :D I'm looking forward to that :!: :D

Just by way of a little postscript, I am now seriously considering installing some lighting in this shed. I have never bothered to do this before, but so much work has gone into the interior of the model that I think it warrants the added cost of a few white LED's; three or four should do it.

Perry



At this point I would like to sincerely thank everyone who has taken such an interest in my goods shed project. I noticed this evening that the number of visits to this thread has passed the 2,000 mark! Without your interest, input and encouragement, I doubt if this project would have developed in the way it has. I've learned lots from it and I would like to think my modelling skills have also improved during it.

Thanks guys! :D

Perry


Matt wrote:perry
can you do a how to on the LED's installed a couple to buildings but i would like to see how you do it :wink:


I have never done it myself yet, Matt, so it will be a learing curve for me too. I don't have a problem with the electronic side of things; that's easy enough, it's how to fit the LED's in and hide the wiring that will be the test. I've got a few ideas on the go, so I'll try to do a 'How To' when I've found out, er, how to! :roll: :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:19 pm
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I decided to fix the roof trusses to the walls, as per the prototype. It seemed more logical! :?

A small 'wall plate'; a tiny rectangle of plastikard, was added to each end of the main cross-beams. As these beams were made of hollow square-section tube there wouldn't be sufficient surface area for the glue to get hold of - it would make for an inherently weak joint. A small 'plate' can be seen on the prototype, albeit of a slightly different shape, but I claim modeller's licence! :wink:



As the roof trusses were set in place, they were located at the logical points; where the wall piers give added support.

Each one was glued using tube glue for strength, then checked for alignment in the vertical plane with a carpenter's square,





Each one was allowed setting time before the next was added. (This gave me time to get on with the domestic decorating - painting the walls of the room opposite. :shock: )

All five have been fixed and will now be allowed to dry thoroughly before any stress is placed on them by adding the roof.



As one can imagine, adding these trusses has firmed the whole building up considerably.

Perry


I don't intend including too much detail of the inside of the roof as it will be too dark to see under normal circumstances, and will be 'behind the lights' when it is lit - so it would still be almost impossible to see. I think a point has be reached when a modeller says "enough", and I think the interior is reaching that stage. The crane and the lighting still has to go in, of course.

I may include some longitundinal stringers, but it depends how it will affect the fit of the roof itself.

It's a bit of a shame that the roof won't be removeable so that detail inside can be displayed, but I feel it's too 'gimicky'. A peek through the dors and windows is all that's going to be possible. (But I'll know the detail is there! :wink: :D ) And before anyone suggests it (Phill? :twisted: ) I know I am perfectly capable of making the roof removeable; I just don't want to. So there! :roll: :wink: :lol:

By the way, a little update on the lighting; the white LED's I chose for the job are currently out of stock at my local branch of Maplins so that phase of the build may have to wait a while. :( I wonder how it would look with yellow lighting.....?

Perry



Wayne Williams wrote:Perry, If you put LED's inside a building, do you have to have access to the LED's for any reason? Or are they totally maintenance free and future access is not needed. Not trying to convince you to make the roof removable :lol: but what if say someone who doesn't exactly know what he or she is doing places too much voltage to the LED, and burnt it out, wouldn't it be very bad if there was no access?

Wayne


It would be bad, Wayne. :shock: The workers in the shed would have to work in the dark! :roll: :lol: :lol:

But if LED's are installed using the correct value of current-limiting resistor for a chosen supply voltage, then they should be maintenance free and should last for years. They are far less likely to need replacing than grain of wheat or other filament-type bulbs.

I will go into how to calculate the resistor value in detail on here when I do the job, but suffice it to say at this stage that it is a simple mathematical formula that requires three values to be 'plugged in' to it and the result gives the value of the resistor required.

Perry



Marty wrote:Perry,
Would you base your lighting colour on the prototype lighting available for your era modelled.
That is, white LED for fluoro tubes, a weaker, yellowish colour for incandescent or gas lighting?
cheers


That's a very good question, Marty. I had decided initially to use bright white LED's, but I'm now leaning more towards using yellow ones. I think I need to rig a couple up temporarily just to see what the different effects are. I have a suspicion that yellow is going to look more 'atmospheric', particularly if I adjust the resistor values to take the brightness down a touch. I'll post the results of the tests on here when I manage to get some white LED's - hopefully later this week.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 05:21 pm
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As I am short of some materials that I can't stock up on for a day or two, I have had to content myself with a little bit of detail work this evening.

The crane that is mounted on the loading bay platform is supported at the top and the bottom; between two pivots (obviously! :oops: ). The thing that intrigued me was the way the top mount was constructed. At first I thought it was just a plain beam at right-angles to the roof trusses with a couple more arranged in a cross to give additonal strength.

However, if one studies the photo of the prototype, it will be seen that the crossed beams don't in fact cross in a straight line. They are offset by the width of the beam.



Having working out the geometry of the mount I set about fabricating one in plastic strip. There were seven components; six half-beams and a centre plate.

This is the view from what will be the botttom:



The top looks like this:



..but i may fit another reinforcing plate. I can't see if the prototype has one, but it would be logical to have an additional one there.

Here is the completed mount placed in it's approximate location:





With the mount glued in place I will be able to work out the height of the top and bottom pivot mounts I need to build. I may even make it rotatable! :wink: :D

Perry


Progress has been slightly delayed of late due to 'circumstances beyond my control', :? but now the decorating is just about finished and further supplies of modelling materials have been obtained, I can pick up where I left off.

Making the upper and lower rotating mounts for the goods shed crane has been a little fiddly, but was accomplished by drilling a very small hole in each end of the crane assembly and setting an ordinary household pin in the pre-built mounts for it to rotate on.

I have added some 'rope' to the winch and carried it around the main pulley wheel, out over the jib and over the small end pulley. The rope is made from tea-bag string. Luckily the tea has just stained it a nice 'ropey' colour. I secured it in place with a few dabs of PVA glue applied with a cocktail stick. A metal hook was attached to the end of the rope and the rope smeared with PVA to keep it fairly straight where it hangs down.

This is the view looking into the shed from one of the railside doors:



The roof has yet to be fitted so the view from above looks like this:



The crane isn't completely upright yet :oops: as it is only propped in place. Further painting will be carried out before it is glued in place.


Lighting:
I have tried out both white and yellow LED's for the internal lighting and think I prefer the yellow ones. I now have to decide how many, where, and how I'm going to fit them. This will have to be done before I can set about making the roof.

Perry



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Indeed it does work. There will be no need for me to provide the resistor formula when I get to that part. I'll just put a link in to Jeff's post. Cheers Jeff! :D

I have decided to use 6 yellow LED's to light the shed. They will be mounted on a beam that runs the length of the shed. I'm going to have to claim modeller's licence once again, because modern lighting has been fitted in the prototype shed and I have no idea how the previous lamps were arranged or fitted.

I chose a piece of plastikard strip 2.5mm x 4mm section and cut it to the internal length of the shed. I marked the beam where the six lamps would go - between the roof trusses - and drilled two 1mm diameter holes about 3mm apart at every marked lamp location. I threaded a small two-hole shirt-button onto the leads of each LED, then slipped a 5mm length of 4mm diameter plastic tube on before pushing the leads through the holes in the beam. Bending them over slightly will hold them in place until the resistors are soldered in place.

The component parts:



Assembled lamps, awaiting resistors and wiring:



The wiring and resistors will lie along the top side of the beam when it is mounted in the shed roof and shouldn't be visible once the roof is on.

Test fitting:





Perry



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As I've said several times before, scratchbuilding isn't difficult. It just takes time, care and patience. If one rushes at it, tries to take shortcuts or 'make do' when a part should be re-made then failure is possible, but breaking a project down into small, achievable steps makes it easy.

I'm truly not being modest when I say anyone can do it. All is takes is a little bit of practice. The only way to do that is to - well, practice! :wink: :lol:

Perry



The electrical work on the beam carrying the lights has been finished.

I ran a bare-wire 'bus' down each side of the beam, carrying the feed and return.

The return side was done first, as there would be less to get in the way when I came to fit the resistors. I used 150 ohm resistors. If you decide to use LED's, I strongly suggest you read Jeff's post about them. It explains how to work out the value of the resistors you will need.

All joints were soldered using a 25 watt soldering iron with a small bit. I held the parts in place using my 'Helping hands' device (discussed elsewhere on the forum - look for it in the index :wink: ) to make the soldering easier. The LED leads and the resistor leads were cut short and soldered together on the feed side.




The resistors were then linked together ensuring that the feed wire didn't short out the resistor. If it did, it wouldn't harm the resistor but it wouldn't protect the LED from excessive current flow.

These were folded as neatly as possible alongside the beam.



The finished job can be seen here:



I have given the bus wires and resistors a coat of matt black paint so that they look a bit more like the electrical conduit often seen festooning the walls and ceilings of industrial buildings. I have also painted the tops and edges of the shirt-buttons; sorry, I mean light shades.

Here is the light beam under test (not a very good photo, I'm afraid! :oops: :roll: ):



I now have to consider how I'm going to take the feed and return down to 'ground level' and get around to fixing the lighting beam in place.

Perry



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The lighting beam has been glued in place. I chose to thread the beam through the roof trusses as it would have fouled the movement of the crane if I had placed it lower, i.e. beneath the lower part of the truss. I have placed it more or less centrally over the internal platform area, reasoning that this is where the railwaymen would have carried out most of their work.





A quick lighting test with the roof area covered over revealed six nice little pools of light on the platform. I could maybe use a few of those areas to 'spotlight' some little cameo scenes inside the shed. Painting the backs and edges of the button lampshades has made the pearly surface of the button act like a reflector, and being slightly concave has perhaps helped 'focus' the lights into the aforementioned areas. I like it! You may, or you may not; but I like it! :lol:

The 'To Do' list grows shorter! :D

Still to do inside the shed:

1. Tidy away, secure and disguise the lighting wiring.
2. Final touches of paint to be done on the crane.
3. Final fixing in place of the internal platform.
4. Glue the crane mounts in place and secure the crane.

After that, the roof!!!!!!!!!!!!! (at last :shock:  :shock:  :shock: )


Perry



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I decided to run the lighting wires through some short pieces of plastic tube that were glued out of the way on the end wall. Fortunately, and completely unplanned, there were two small recesses that the tubes went into nicely. I threaded the insulated wires through them before glueing them into place with 5-minute epoxy resin. I thought about painting them black but thought they might be a little obtrusive, so I gave them a quick coat of brick red enamel paint - still wet and shiny in the photo!



A small cut out has been made in the edge of the platform up against the wall that will enable me to take the wires through to the baseboard.

Perry



The inside of the shed is finished as far as construction goes. Obviously figures and details such as packing cases, etc., will be added later.

I have begun work on the main roof. I cut two roof base panels; the ones the tiles will be mounted on, from .040" plastikard. These are 256mm x 100mm each. I ensured that they were 'square', so that the tiles will fit properly.

I will be using the same type of Slater's Plastikard Roof Tile sheet I used for the shed office roof. These sheets are cut into strips about 6mm wide that includes a plain strip and a tiled strip. The idea of these is that each tiled side overlaps the plain side of the preceding strip. A picture being worth a thousand words: :wink:



To make it easier to align the strips accurately, I used a pencil to draw parallel lines approximately 6mm apart on each roof panel. I started at what will become the eaves on each side and worked my way up towards the ridge. I won't necessarily glue a strip of tiles on each pencil line; they are just a guide to help me line them up.



Perry



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