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Bob K
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I have started to develop the backscenes to go behind Middleton station on my layout. I require some low relief buildings in front of the backboards to provide some depth. I am using some Metcalfe buildings, however, I want to depict a Victorian style house, as a home for the local factory owner. I searched on one of the property selling websites to find a suitable prototype to model. I came up with this:




It is a four bedroom house built in 1862 and was originally a mill owners house. There are quite a few pictures accompanying the main photo on the site showing detail which will help. I intend to build the front only, as shown in the picture and part of the sides of the building. I will use some commercial doors and windows from Wills, but the main structure and roof and detail will be scratch built.

The first task is to work out the size and draw up some plans. More to follow.........

Novice                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   B

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A great project ahead, Novice. That's a good looking house, made even more attractive (and possibly easier to model :? ) by its near-perfect symmetry. I'll be following this with great interest.

(Another scratchbuilder :shock: I'd better get going on my plans and ideas :lol: )

Perry
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Here we go; another scratchbuilder. Hurray! :D That's what I like to see! :D :D

I'm really looking forward to this project. It will be interesting to see how another scratchbuilder tackles things. With any degree of luck I'll be able to pick up a few pointers. :D

Perry

Bob K
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Perry wrote:Here we go; another scratchbuilder. Hurray! :D That's what I like to see! :D :D

I'm really looking forward to this project. It will be interesting to see how another scratchbuilder tackles things. With any degree of luck I'll be able to pick up a few pointers. :D

Perry


Perry

I very much doubt that you will learn much from my efforts, but I will certainly be seeking advice from you. :)

Novice

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O dear, now I'll have to get on with my layout and rejoin the ranks of scratchbuilders :!: All you new guys are starting to show me up :!: :!:
Seriously though Novice, well done for deciding to have a go, I'm looking foward to your thread.

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Can not wait for this thread to start, better my lodger leaves soon :twisted: so i can get on with mine. Looking forward to another project built from scratch.
Phill

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A very attractive subject! Good on you, Novice.

Mike

Bob K
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The first thing I have noticed is that I have called this project a Low Relief Georgian House, when it is in fact Victorian :oops: A good start!

Well I have worked out the size and shape of the building. I did this by looking at the floor plan measurements, counting bricks on the photograph and by measuring the window frames that I intend to use. So the basic outline of the building has been cut out and this works out at around 155mm wide x 73mm high The gable ends will be some 23mm higher making the total height of the building 96mm at the apex of the roof.

Again by counting bricks I have been able to position the 5 windows and the door openings. There are no windows on the end walls, these are plain brick. Having marked all of these on the card I cut them out:




The first stage of this project is complete. The most complex part is going to be the door. This is arched, set back into the wall and has a further decorative brick arch around it, which appears to be flush with the main wall:





Need to get my thinking cap on to work out how I will achieve this!

Bob(K)

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Two scratch builders on the go can we all handle this ? :lol: seriously though this is going to be a good one aswell.

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After a bit of head scratching I came up with a plan. I need to place the inner door arch into a recess. The only way this could be done is to cut it out, add a spacer and fix it back in place. So I cut the inner arch out.





It also needed a brick 'fan above the arch, so I lopped the top of the cut out arch, reversed it and scribed on the fan shaped bricks. I then glued the top back on.

Next I needed to deal with the larger archway that sits flush with the wall, above the door. I marked it in pencil and then cut it out. Big gamble here as the building is potentially ruined if this does not work :(





I added some plastic strip to act as a spacer for the recessed door. Reversed the larger arch and scribed some bricks in a fan shape. Glued this back in place and fixed in the recessed door. A bit of filler was needed to finish off. I also added some window ledges, made out of plastic strip:





So far so good. Next the end walls.

Bob(K)

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Bob (K) - this is beginning to look and read like a Perry thread 8) Expect a big following :lol: I'm in the front row :!:

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Good going, Bob. Well explained too. It's going to look great.

Mike

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Looking good, Bob (K)!

If you are making an arch to go completely behind another opening, there is no need to curve both inner and outer edges. The one you can't see can be any old shape you like! :D

You're a brave man setting the over-door arch flush into the wall! :roll: :lol: It's something I'm seldom comfortable with. :oops:

I see that you have used English Bond embossed brickwork. Is this how the prototype is built? I can't tell on the photographs (due to having rubbish eyesight! :lol: )

Perry

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Nice one Bob(K), looks like you've been doing this for years :!:

Perhaps some of our more reticent members will believe Perry and I now :!:
It's easy for us to bang on about how anyone can scratchbuild, as long as they take the time and trouble to plan the job, now a guy (that calls himsef Novice) is proving the point :!:

Go for it Bob(K) we know you can do it, we are seeing it with our own eyes ... Fantastic :!: :!:

phill
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Following this with interest, a good job so far and im with Tim on the front row, what time is the usherette coming with the icecream :D
Looking forward to following this thread, first Perry and now Bob, which do we follow first ?.
Great Bob, keep going.
Phill

Bob K
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Perry wrote:Looking good, Bob (K)!


I see that you have used English Bond embossed brickwork. Is this how the prototype is built? I can't tell on the photographs (due to having rubbish eyesight! :lol: )

Perry


Perry

I am not totally sure of the brick pattern. It is neither English bond or Flemish. The English is the closest I could find and as it is going to be set well back as part of the backscene I decided to use this. I would be interested to know. The picture of the doorway might help.

Bob(K)

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from what i can see it looks very much like english bond
and as you say its going well back. :wink: :wink:

Perry
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This might help:

http://www.ibstock.com/pdfs/get-it-right/getitright4.pdf

:)

Perry

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Nice one Perry, very clear.

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The end walls are now in place. They are obviously half walls as this is to be a low relief structure. I used a couple of pieces of card, cut as right angle triangles as inner supports for each wall. The next task will be painting the brick work and adding windows and the door, before I fix the roof on.





Bob (K)

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Perry

Thanks for the info on brick patterns. I still can't make my mind up as it appears that a variation of styles has been used. Like you I cannot see enough detail from the pictures to be sure. I have gone firm on English bond, but I may be proved wrong in the end. Tempted to go and have a look at the real thing!

Bob(K)

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Novice wrote:The end walls are now in place. They are obviously half walls as this is to be a low relief structure. I used a couple of pieces of card, cut as right angle triangles as inner supports for each wall. The next task will be painting the brick work and adding windows and the door, before I fix the roof on. Bob (K)

As you are making this a more or less half-depth low relief model, Bob, are you going to add a false floor half-way up? Apart from the added strength and rigidity it would provide, if the model is close enough on the layout for an observer to see, it may harm the illusion that it's supposed to be a whole building if the eye can see through the upper windows right down to ground level.

I only mention this because I found it necesary to fit 'extra' floors to a building I made long ago for that very reason. It would have been much easier for me to fit them at an earlier stage of construction. Talk about learning by ones mistakes! :oops:

Perry

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Perry wrote:Novice wrote:The end walls are now in place. They are obviously half walls as this is to be a low relief structure. I used a couple of pieces of card, cut as right angle triangles as inner supports for each wall. The next task will be painting the brick work and adding windows and the door, before I fix the roof on. Bob (K)

As you are making this a more or less half-depth low relief model, Bob, are you going to add a false floor half-way up? Apart from the added strength and rigidity it would provide, if the model is close enough on the layout for an observer to see, it may harm the illusion that it's supposed to be a whole building if the eye can see through the upper windows right down to ground level.

Perry


Perry

Yes, I will add this after the windows and roof are in place and I intend to put a couple of dividing walls (rooms) as I think the building will be seen from an angle from certain points in the layout and it will look odd being able to see the entire length. I will also add curtains to the windows.

Bob(K)

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Hope this won't be "teaching granny to suck eggs", but:-

For ease of working, Novice, be sure to add your curtains to the windows befor you add dividing walls and floors. It's so much easier to do whilst you have maximum space available.

I'd make sure that the front wall also has some plain plasticard stuck onto the inside surface as well. This is to stop future warping and to aid stability. I use offcuts of material from old jobs, several bits stuck on the back are fine, they don't have to cover the whole surface.

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Jeff

Thanks for the advice. The roof, followed by windows, curtains, doors etc will be the next phase. You can't see it in the picture but I have run some 2mm square rods (like beams) along the inside of the walls. These will act as stiffeners for the outer walls and supports for the upper floor. The floor and inner walls should also act as supports to hold everything in place. Do you think it wll need more than that to prevent warping?

Bob(K)

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The construction of the door is quite complex and it has an intricate glass fan-light above it. The first task is to cut out the inner door frame, which will form the white door surround and frame for the fan-light. I did this by marking and then cutting out the frame. Quite a delicate task as the cross bar is only about 0.8mm thick. I'm surprised that I suceeded first go:





The next task is to work out how to build the fan-light design:





Bob(K)

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Hi Bob(K), regarding your question about avoiding warping.

If it was my building project, yes, I would be tempted to put some odd scraps of plasticard on the inside of the walls.
My buildings always have two layers to start with, as I cut out the pattern required from plain white 0.5mm (20 thou) styrene sheet and the bond the embossed sheet on top, turn it over and then cut out the required openings in the embossed sheet using the plain sheet cut outs to guide me. (Hope that's clear).
The bits we add (reveals, arches, sills, frames etc.) then form the 3rd layer, in your case this would be provided by the beams and room dividers etc.

I believe that this is the only way to ensure stability. Think of plywood, why is 3-ply the least you can get? Because 2 layers don't give stability, that's why.
There are still some of my buildings (on a friends layout) in existance that are over 15 years old, still sound and perfectly square, with no warping or distortion. Some I knocked together quickly only 5 years ago, using no laminations (for an exhibition layout deadline), are twisted and distorted beyond use.
Says it all really.

If you enjoy your scratchbuilding enough to continue, I would highly recommend you spend a tenner on Ken Ball's book. It's like my plasticard bible. Here's the details:-

Publisher ... Cheona Publications
Title ... Modelling Buildings The Easy Way
Author ... Ken Ball
ISBN No 1 90298 19 8

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OK, I'm following you so far, but one thing puzzles me. How do you cut out the curved line. As I understand it you are supposed to scribe the plasticard a few times then snap it apart. How do you snap the curved line?

Wayne

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Jeff

Thanks for the tips. I will wait and see if will I venture further into the scratch building business, after I have finsihed this project - there's still plenty to go wrong yet :!:

Bob(K)

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Wayne Williams wrote:OK, I'm following you so far, but one thing puzzles me. How do you cut out the curved line. As I understand it you are supposed to scribe the plasticard a few times then snap it apart. How do you snap the curved line?

Wayne


Wayne

I am sure Perry or Jeff will give you the correct answer. I simply mark what I want to cut out and using a craft knife I gently scribe along the line. Do this 4 or 5 times and the piece just drops out. It needs virtually no pressure at all.

Bob(K)

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Ahh, it just takes patience huh? :cry:

Thanks,
Wayne

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My efforts today have been largely focussed upon getting the fanlight sorted. Whilst pondering this problem I have attached some of the decorative stone around the windows, some guttering and the brick detail which is prominent at the end of each wall. The building has been given some base coats of paint before putting in the windows:




With regards to the fanlight, thanks to a suggestion from Sparky, I think I have found a solution. I printed a picture of the house almost to scale, then with some clear plastic laid over it I scribed the fanlight design into the plastic. Next, I painted into the scribing. wiping off any excess. I used a little black to highlight. I think it works OK.





The brick detail on the wall ends was constructed from individual bricks glued together to form the support shape:




Almost ready to fix the roof - just got to work out how it goes on!

Bob(K)

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Novice wrote:The construction of the door is quite complex and it has an intricate glass fan-light above it. The first task is to cut out the inner door frame, which will form the white door surround and frame for the fan-light. I did this by marking and then cutting out the frame. Quite a delicate task as the cross bar is only about 0.8mm thick. ............Bob(K)

It worked beautifully Bob, but I can't help feeling you did it the hard way. I would have cut out the arched doorway in one whole piece and then put in a crossbar made from microstrip. That way I would be sure that the crossbar would be of an even width across the whole piece - something I probably wouldn't have been able to do cutting it out as you did.

It just goes to show there are several ways of achieving the same end result.

Perry

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hey i like the boarded up windows,very modern!! (joke?).
a really smart job i think it looks great, that fanlight idea
paid off, neat.
:) :) :lol: :lol: 8)

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A really nice job, Bob. Who makes the downpipes, please? Is it Wills?

Mike

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It,s really looking good Bob :)

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MikeC wrote:A really nice job, Bob. Who makes the downpipes, please? Is it Wills?

Mike


Mike

Yes, I used Wills Building Details Pack A (Ref SS 46). It has all sorts of small detail paits for roofing, drains, gutters and chimneys.

Bob(K)

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Owen wrote hey i like the boarded up windows,very modern!!

Brilliant Owen, just brilliant. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

On a more serious note the amount of talent on this forum is quite staggering. This scratchbuilding section is proving to be so educational and an inspiration to us real "Novices".

Les

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Well, over the weekend I have manged to attach the roof. It has yet to be painted. Also, some of the windows are now in place. Bit of a delay here as the Wills pack, which is full of windows, only has 4 of each type - I need 5. Doh! :oops: My local model shop is out of stock, so I have some more on order.

I have also given the building a wash of white/sand mix to highlight the mortar. The gutters and downpipe are now painted too.

The next task is to glaze the windows and install the interior detail of curtains, followed by upper floor and inner walls.




Bob(K)

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You're doing a fine job on that, Bob.

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just looking at that makes me wonder why i still do card kits
you have done a good job there. :) :) :) 8)

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owen69 wrote:just looking at that makes me wonder why i still do card kits


Owen

I think you can use both together. I plan to have Metcalfe buildings alongside this one. The main reason I built this house is because I could not find a low relief card or a plastic kit of one that would fit the bill.

Bob(K)

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i am having the same prob myself, i need a row of houses
about 24" to 30" long but full not low relief, no one makes
those at a price i can afford so slaters here i come!!!
:roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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The additional Wills windows and doors pack, which I ordered on line on Tuesday evening, arrived at lunch time today. :) Not only did they arrive in rapid time but they cost 40p less than my local model shop, even when postage and packing was added on. :shock: I also saved on 35 miles worth of fuel which I would have used for the round trip.

I like to support my local model shop, but how can they compete with service like that?

Bob(K)

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I'm afraid they can't Bob and customer loyalty to the local shop can only stretch so far, which is a pity but that's the commercial world as it is today.

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It's certainly a problem for me, much as I like to try to support local shops. To spend £5 on petrol and between £1 and £4 on parking to go to my local stores makes £1.99p postage and packing on internet orders look very attractive. I've just ordered some more materials over the internet because my local shop was out of stock. Oh yes, they'll be getting some more in - but they can't say when.... :(

Perry

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Same problem here I'm afraid, my "local" shopping has dropped by around 75% because "will be coming in soon" is not good enough.

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My model shop is just as bad, next one is miles away so when i start to build DCC think it will be internet shopping for me. Fine build Novice, looks great.
Phill

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A bit more progress. The 5th window has been installed, all the windows have been glazed and curtains added. I copied the method used in the Metcalfe buildings for curtains. I cut them out of paper, having coloured them and I used a piece of matchstick on each curtain as a spacer to give depth. I have also started to put in the interior walls. They are a bit rough and ready, but they will not be seen when the back wall is put in and they are painted in a dark colour. They will however prevent the building from looking hollow. Once again I used matchsticks to support and brace the inner walls:





I have also completed work on the roof. This consisted of adding chimney stacks and pots, putting in place the ridge tiles and the stonework on each edge of the roof:





The next step will be to paint the interior, fit the back wall and then paint the exterior.

Bob(K)

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It's surprising how much work is involved, even for 'half a house'.

This is coming along really well. :D

Perry

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Nice work, Bob(K) - and I concur with all the sentiments about local versus internet shopping. My local model shop is 25 miles away, and carry only a limited stock. All they do is order from the suppliers anyway so it's faster and cheaper for me to do it myself. :D

Diesel
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Very very nice Bob (k)

Bob K
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over this weekend I installed the back of the building, painted the roof and chimney stacks and then weathered the whole building. I think the house is now completed, less the outside light and name board:




The next task is to tackle the front garden and railings and then add scenic work.

Bob(K)

Robert
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Looking forward to seeing it in it's 'setting' Bob.

owen69
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that looks really good,the bees knees, if i can do anything like
i will be more than happy.( you &perry have a lot to answer for)
that heath fella is as bad iwas content running trains. not now
i have the bug!!
:P :P :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

Robert
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I know Owen, it's worse than the 'flu and can play havoc with your social life. :roll: :wink:

phill
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So is this going to be the boss's house's then mate. Looks really good, be looking forward to seeing it in place.
Phill

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Very good indeed, BobK I hope you'll have more buildings to show us :)

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:shock: As I've had the flu since Wednesday, I can most definately assure you that the "modelling bug" is much more pleasant Bob :!: :roll:
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Robert
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Oh dear Jeff. I had completely forgotten about your 'flu. Since Wednesday, the worst of it should be over by now then. I bet you have had a miserable weekend eh?

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:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: A real horror, Bob. :!: :!: :!:

Bob K
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The garden and railings to the front of the house are now in place. The house will go onto the layout once work starts on the factory complex:




A view of the original for comparison:




See the Upton to Dunton thread under personal layouts for details of the house occupants :)

On to the next project :!:

Bob(K)

Matt
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THAT LOOKS GREAT 8)

Perry
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A fabulous result! I wish I could work at that speed. :?

The railings set the house off beautifully - they could have been designed for it.

Great stuff. Looking forward to more. :D

Perry

phill
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A brilliant result there and i hope one day i too coud build one to this standard
Phill

Bob K
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phill wrote:A brilliant result there and i hope one day i too coud build one to this standard
Phill


Phill

If I can do it anyone can. Once you have worked out what needs to be done, with a little time and patience, it tends to be straight forward - give it a go.

Bob(K)

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A superb result, Bob :!: :!:

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Bob K
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Perry wrote:
The railings set the house off beautifully - they could have been designed for it.


Perry


Perry

The railings are made from Ratio spear fencing. I cut off the bottom section to reduce height, then I removed every other spear point to reflect the original. The gate I manufactured from fence parts, adding the latch etc.

Bob(K)

Robert
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Very effective it is too Bob. Nice use of standard manufacturers parts.

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Exellent Bob (k)

Les
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Superb Bob, I really don't know how you guys can be so skilled.

Les

Wayne Williams
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All I can say is "I hope some of this skill rubs off on me"
Great Job Bob :!:

Wayne

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Excellent end result Bob...well done :)

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Oh yes Bob - what a model - superb and a very good, easy to follow thread - all I need now is the skill !!! :wink:

Petermac                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                ✓     B


                 

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