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| HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2392 Painting Figurines Pt 1 By Reed Comerford I personally use a hemostat or alligator clip to hold a figure by the foot to paint the figure. If I have a bunch to do I take a piece of scrap wood, drill several holes in it and place dowels or bolts through the holes and attach alligator clips to them. I personally use acrylic paint pens to paint the people as this allows me to use multiple colors without having to have many paint bottles open at the same time.. I also eliminate cleaning many brushes. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2393 Painting Figurines Pt 2 By Steve Bolt I use a strip of BluTack or Plasticine on a work surface and stand the figures on that to paint them. I then cover these with a suitable sized box to keep dust off while they dry. Once dry reverse the figures so you can finish painting their shoes. Use non-gloss paint in fairly muted colours for clothing in general, it looks much better in my opinion. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2394 Painting Figurines Pt 3 By Colin Borgelt To help speed up the painting of figures I find that the best way is to attach them by the sole of one of their shoes to a sprig of plastic rod. Leave enough space between the figures for access for your paint brush. This way you can paint the parts of all the figures to be a similar colour at the same time. Rather than clean your brush to paint one figure at a time, plan your colour scheme for each figure, do a very rough sketch then you can go along the group of f using the same colour as appropriate for each of them. They are then easily detached and fitted to your layout. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2395 Introducing Random Events to your Railway By Maurice Braddon I have been looking for ways to simulate having a Dispatcher and a Yardmaster for track permission. I model a Shortline that interchanged with a larger railroad in the mid 80's. Two things I am simulating. 1) The Shortline would need permission from the Yardmaster to enter the yard to pick up cars that Conrail had set out for them and drop off out going cars. The connection between the two was within Yard limits. 2) The Shortline has trackage rights on that railway to reach another branch of the Shortline. I want to simulate getting permission from the Dispatcher for what I assume would be a Track Warrant. Normal operating crew is only one or two people, a engineer and a conductor, and normally I am both of those people. I have come up with the idea of rolling a dice and assigning situations to each number. For instance if I roll a 6 I get permission, a 5 I don't and have to wait a set amount of time, 4 enter the yard but clear the main until the mainline train comes through (I have one mainline train staged in each direction on a loop), a 3 wait a longer time. etc. Of course, I don't want to wait too long, after all, the idea is to get operating. Just trying to make operations more prototypical on a small layout with limited number of people. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2396 Demarcating Staging/Fiddle Yards By Wayne Toth I have five fiddle yards/staging areas on my railway so to “separate” them from the railway, I have simply painted the base board area a flat black - I do not ballast or scenic the area in any way. Like theatre staging where the sides of scenes and acts are black, it focuses the viewing to the operating theatre area. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2397 DIstinguishing Yards from Mainline By Leslie Pace I used two thickness of cork under my track, a thicker cork tile under my main line areas and thinner cork sheet in my yard areas. The height difference along with different/thinner/older/ recycled ballast gives a gentle undulation to the layout and is typical of a lot of yard vs main line areas in the world. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2398 Deciding on a Yard Design By John York I laid out my yard track and tried several different designs over several months. I decided I wanted to run things a while before I made up my mind, so I laid down cork sheets, and moved my track and turnouts/points several times. I could have done the same thing without the cork, but for some reason it seemed to be a little easier than moving cork strips each time or lifting the track one last time to put underlay and ballast in place. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2399 Another Storage Technique for Stripwood By Matt Hardy I have begun accumulating the cardboard tubes on which are rolled paper towels. Pick a box that is about as tall as the tubes and about 8-10" square - or rectangular of approximately that size. Stuff it with the cardboard tubes so that each one is touching another tube or the side of the box - to the point where they will no longer move about freely from side to side. You have just created a great storage box for scale lumber or plastic strips for use on a horizontal shelf. If you glue the bottom of the box to a square of heavy wood just larger than the box - to add weight to the structure - it can be used freestanding on the floor next to your workbench and moved around as needed. Works for me! |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2400 Another Storage Technique for Styrene By Chris Van Der Heide I got a little tired of digging around in my box of packages of styrene strip to try and find the specific size I need for whatever project I am working on, so I broke out the foam core board and whipped up a little something.  Fine precision is not necessarily key to this project but the overall size is 11.5” wide, 18” tall overall and 4” deep. The rear set of pockets has a 2” deep false floor to stagger them higher than the front row so the labels are visible. All of the pieces are glued together with regular PVA white glue. Other that that, what you see is pretty much what you get. Now my styrene supply is much more organized and easy to access. A must have for any serious scratchbuilder |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2401 Preventing Styrene Sticking to Your Work Surface By Allan Reeves When I am assembling styrene structures, I use smooth-faced consumer-grade cardstock. Used legal pads are ideal. Particularly using MEK, I use a 5” x 9” legal pad back as a substrate. The material is nearly dead flat, as it gets compressed under the weight of dozens of pads during manufacturing and shipping. It is smooth enough to work comfortably on, yet just porous enough to absorb any extra styrene cement or MEK that might escape a joint. Cement enters the paper fibers immediately, then disappears or evaporates without fouling the work. A gentle nudge of the work slides it around without sticking. I marked the pad with a fine Sharpie with the message “for Styrene Gluing only” to remind myself not to use this pad as a cutting surface. That keeps it smooth. |
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xdford Member
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Hints & Tips No. 2402 Spray Painting a Model without Overspray Sticking it to Your Work Surface By Allan Reeves When I am spray painting a model, using one of my legal pad backs, I roll up a couple of small balls of plastic masking tape, sticky side out and use those as a couple of “jack pads” between the card pad and the model. Any paint that overspray does not accumulate under the model nor does it attach to the surface of our model forming a joint with the surface it is resting on needing to be broken. The sticking power of the tape should enable small parts to be held and sprayed.. |
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