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HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Jan 12th, 2021 09:00 pm
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xdford
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Hints & Tips No. 2372
If Particular Locos derail on Point frogs Pt 2
By Trevor Gibbs
Peco points are very well engineered but stubborn derailment problems could be in the movable rail trying to "straighten" itself however microscopically after having been bent and that has been another issue I have had to deal with with extreme conditions in my shed. I think it is due to a very small degree of elastic memory in the rail being bent by machine.  
In short, check the gauge of the track first right the way along the turnout , holding the moving rails with your fingers and very carefully flex that rail outwards but not too far as this is an area where your wheels can be tripped before hitting the frog. This should give you literally


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 Posted: Fri Jan 15th, 2021 10:03 pm
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xdford
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Hints & Tips No. 2373
Using “No Nails” etc for gluing foam layers
By Doug Dickson
If you are considering using 'No-Nails', 'Gripfast', 'Gripfill' et cetera to glue together layers of hard expanded foam sheets for baseboards and scenic landscaping, be very sure that you will not have to cut into the layers through the product after it has gone off.
Today I started cutting into my baseboard to plant my road bridge. Well! I had to use a hacksaw blade and a fine pull-saw to get through the adhesive layer. A Stanley knife would not touch it, and a firmer chisel struggled, it was like trying to cut bone.
Needless to say, I also used what oozed out to coat the bottom of my 'river', I think an abrasive disc will be needed, I am dreading the inevitable mess!


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 Posted: Tue Jan 19th, 2021 04:56 am
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xdford
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Hints & Tips No. 2374 
Fixing Printed Signs  Pt 1
By Wayne Toth
My brother makes most of my signs, and in most cases, has them printed by the same commercial printer who does his wife's business printing.
They are done on cardstock, which appears to be about 12 mil in thickness (same as .012").
I usually mount the signs on sheet styrene of varying thicknesses, depending on their size and the method that I use to mount them.
For small signs, I use contact cement to mount them on .020" sheet styrene, and usually add a frame, made from suitably-sized strip styene, around them. If they're to be mounted on structures (mostly styrene on my layout) I use liquid solvent-type cement, such as Testors or MEK, to fix them in place.
For larger signs that will be attached directly to structures, the procedure is usually similar, although I might use thicker sheet styrene - I have a good supply of Evergreen sheets, from .005" up to .040" in thickness, but I have a much cheaper and larger supply of .060" material, as I buy it in 4'x8' sheets.
For large signs that will be free-standing, either on a billboard or a roof-mounted, I use the .060" sheet styrene, and also add a frame. I sometimes airbrush the signs using Testors Dulcote, but haven't noticed any yellowing of any of the signs, Dulcoted or not.


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