Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  81  82  83  84  85  86  87  Next Page Last Page  
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 08:21 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1701st post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2211
If you use Grout to represent Dirt and/or Ballast...  Pt 1
By Several Modellers

If you are using Grout as your main “earth’ source, be sure to saturate the mix with PVA glue or it will put off dust forever. Also, if you use a lighter shade you can simply rub on a dirt road. It is almost chalk like.  I mix a little grout with dirt so the color varies a bit. (Barry Laird)
Just test it first.  I used grout all over a layout I was helping build and it worked like a charm. The same exact materials in my basement and the glue dried white. I've seen other people have a similar problem, and I think it is related to the atmosphere and the grout.
Trust me, test it first. Thoroughly. It took me 6 months to fix the mess I made!  (Randy Hamill)


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Sep 15th, 2019 06:37 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1702nd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2212
If you use Grout to represent Dirt and/or Ballast...  Pt 2
By Mark Evans
I found something that works really well with grout. I use denatured alcohol in a spray bottle. The alcohol acts as a wetting agent. I find I do not need any glue in addition to what is already in the grout. If you do decide to use thinned white glue or matte medium you'll find the alcohol works fine as a wetting agent. Another upside of the alcohol is that it dries a lot faster than the old "wet water" we used in the past. 
My theory is that the Denatured has less water content that the Isopropyl does. This should make drying time faster and lessen warping of any wood on the layout. I buy my denatured alcohol at Home Depot in a gallon can. I use a lot of it!. Make sure your ventilation is good and watch for open flames. Too much of a good thing might cause an explosion.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Sep 18th, 2019 08:50 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1703rd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2213
PVA Used for Windows
By Trevor Gibbs

In the process of rebuilding my layout after a move, I made a few buildings from kits that I had either been given or bought for a “one day” project.  However I did not like the clear styrene windows provided so I carefully laid cellotape on the inside of the buildings walls. Over a couple of nights I painted in PVA glue which was to dry clear in the frames. When the glue dried, it  gave a fairly good representation of a window flush with the frame after which the cellotape was peeled away.  
The “glass” dried clear but was opaque enough to actually suggest the presence of a window from a regular viewing distance.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Sep 21st, 2019 07:31 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1704th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2214
Using N Scale Cork for OO or HO secondary tracks Pt 1
By Rob Spangler


I used quite a bit of N scale cork on my HO layout for secondary tracks, making it three strips wide.  The centre strip was installed upside down so the bevel was hidden, while the two outer strips were installed normally with the bevel toward the ballast slope.  After using acrylic latex caulk to glue down the track, there were no major gaps to fill.
To align the roadbed against the centre line, I simply marked an additional line for the edge of the center strip.  marking it as a dashed line prevented any confusion as to which was the actual center and which represented the edge of the cork strip when I glued it down.  If you use something like a compass or dividers to mark the extra line it can go pretty fast, so there's not too much more work involved.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Sep 24th, 2019 09:41 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1705th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2215
Using N Scale Cork for OO or HO secondary tracks Pt 2
By Tom Haag

I use N-scale cork on my Ho scale railroad to represent yard or secondary track.  I separate the N-scale cork road bed but I keep the beveled sides towards the center line with both bevels facing each other making a "V".  This way it is easy to lay it against the centre line and then the width is just a little wider then HO ties. I glue the track down so this gap just fills up with glue.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 27th, 2019 11:17 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1706th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2216
Making Mesh impregnated windows for factories
By Several Modellers
To Make a Window with mesh reinforcement - 
If it is very subtle window screen you want, you can get it by sanding plastic window material in a crosshatch pattern then washing it with ink or thin paint, the wash will get into the sanding marks and look like screen from a distance. (Darren Barnard)
You could print small Diagonal patterns using Paint or similar on OH Transparency sheet or scratch a diagonal pattern using the blade of a razor saw dragged across the material using a steel rule as  guide. A bit of India Ink to fill in the cracks and there should be enough diffusing of light to suggest the presence of mesh. (Bryan Kunoth)


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Sep 30th, 2019 06:13 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1707th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2217
Backdrop Height
By Keith Walton
Over the years, I have seen a lot of back drops that seemed to me to be way too low. 
In my train room, I painted the walls to get a light sky blue to the ceiling, although the ceiling itself will be white).
Where I will have a back-drop scenic divider for a peninsula area, I still  want it to be fairly high and if possible above eye level. If my track is at 1200mm, for example, I am thinking that 600mm (about 24 inches) would be high enough to take in the tallest of our local modellers 


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Oct 3rd, 2019 08:51 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1708th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2218
To Justify a Backdrop on your layout
By Kevin Berryman
Any backdrop that you can put on your layout is effective. ANY backdrop is so much better than not having one and increases the scene at which you are looking. The only time that the height of the backscene really becomes a concern is in photography. If you want pictures of big sweeping trains, you will need a taller backdrop, and more scenery in front of the train but Photoshop or Gimp fixes both of these problems.
For normal viewing, any backdrop is good, even if it just a plain blue sky. 


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Oct 6th, 2019 07:43 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1709th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2219
Identifying Reverse Loops on complex layouts
By Henry Jansen
 
I have an acquaintance  who has built quite a complex layout but could not get it to work. I have painted one side of a boxcar white the other black to help with his wiring.  If on the same piece of track I saw the white side one time and black the other, that was an indication of a reversing loop. 
Colours and type of rolling stock is optional so if you do not have a spare box car body, use a piece of blue painters tape stuck to one side.You could also use a specific order of coaches such as an SR and GWR coach or wagons such as a tank, flat and cattle wagon from left to right with a reversing of the order  indicating the presence of the loop.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Oct 9th, 2019 11:52 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1710th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2220
Safe Disposal of Sharp Blades
By Nigel Phillips
For disposal of spent blades and scalpels, I use an Empty large medicine pill container. Glue a small magnet on the bottom. Cheaper than a medical sharps container.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Oct 12th, 2019 09:18 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1711th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2221
Painting Sleepers
By Colin Wilshire
I read a Hint and Tip about ballasting using a cut back paint brush which was really useful to me. I extended this concept by cutting back a small kiddies paint brush to about 3mm of bristles which I used for painting my sleepers. 

I had much better control at speed than with a regular brush. I do not have an airbrush and given my layout location cannot use one safely so this was a far better alternative.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Oct 15th, 2019 11:32 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1712th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2222
Never have a blocked Glue Tube Again!!! 
By Colin Wilshire
This is something I find very handy - A PVA Glue dispenser that does not block.
This brings together a couple of items from the Health care area:
    An empty 10 Ml bottle of the sort used to dispense eye drops; lubricants, antibiotics and the like, suitably cleaned out. Important point is it must have a removable spout with single central outlet


    A set of used Dental root canal files. Dentists use these to remove debris from dead root canals and good practitioners make do with a single use, then dispose to avoid risk of breaking one off in the canal! Ask your dentist nicely and he (his assistant) will autoclave a set for you, I have 3 sets.  These are tiny conical flexible files and go down to very fine points. Handy for all sorts of modelling jobs. The #45 size is perfect for this job.
Use a syringe to fill your dropper bottle right to the top with 100% PVA glue. Insert the #45 file with it's rubber washer attached into the spout. If a poor fit, find the correct size.
Store upside down as shown. The fine file edges scour the nozzle each time you use it so it never blocks, the rubber washer gives a perfect seal for as long as you want. 
A new set of the files is shown by the side in the photo. Having gone thru 2 root canal jobs in 3 years after a lifetime of good dental health, I felt I was getting a little something back with this


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Oct 18th, 2019 03:11 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1713th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2223
Making Frosted Windows Pt 1
By Several Modellers
I use 500 to 1000 grit sandpaper to frost up my window glass, sanding one side leaves a frosted gloss on the other.  It works well on both clear Styrene and Acrylic.  I use a lot of fiber optical cable and roughing up the sides works good for gaining light transfer from the sides too. (Mel Perry)
I have used Testors Dull cote for dampening window glazing.  You may want to break off a window corner or two. If you have lots of windows replace a couple with wood to simulate a missing window replaced with plywood. (Kevin Beasley)


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Oct 21st, 2019 03:51 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1714th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2224
Making Frosted Windows Pt 2
By Several Modellers
I use a “rogue”brand of PVA which dries an Off white colour painted on the inside face of the acrylic or transparent sheet (Trevor Gibbs)
An option, not appropriate  for all structures, is to tint the windows.  Brick curtain-wall factories had lots of large windows, but many ended-up being tinted to either cut down on the light or, more likely, the heat from the sun. 
I used a Floquil green - not sure of the particular shade, but it's not really important.  I thinned it about 90% with lacquer thinner, and then airbrushed it on the inside of the styrene windows.  This leaves the exterior of the "glass" shiny, which is a good choice for a well-maintained factory.  
For one that's been neglected, a better choice might be grey or brown, or greyish brownish to represent dirt and grime, and applied to the exterior - thin it well to make the windows look dirty, rather than painted-over.
Sanding works well, too, but is a little more labour intensive.  Make sure to use a fairly fine grit, as coarser ones will make distinctive scratches which won't look too realistic, especially on multi-pane windows if they carry-over, uninterrupted, onto adjoining panes. (WayneToth)


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Oct 24th, 2019 07:36 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1715th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2225
Do I Cover a Window where it could be a Backdrop Pt 1
By Several Modellers
My layout room has two large windows (48" across).  I stopped the backdrop on one side, and started it again on the other.  I made no attempt to disguise the openings in any way. With the layout finished around the windows, their presence doesn't bother me, and I did not lose any natural light for any times I may want it. (Rob Spangler) 
You could use  just a row of trees or brush, or maybe a low bank of dirt, would do. (George Jeffreys)




Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Oct 27th, 2019 08:18 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1716th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2226
Do I Cover a Window where it could be a Backdrop Pt 2
By Ray Osmond
I installed roll-up window shades from the local home improvement big box store, choice of color was limited so I opted for light grey, which, when in the down position, somewhat blends with the blue-fade-to-white sky I painted on the train room walls. 
On my previous layout, with the same color shade, I painted the wall sections adjoining the one window with a mix of light and medium grays to represent an overcast sky, and the shade really blended in well.  I may do the overcast thing in places on my current layout.
The shades help hide the window when you're in train-room mode, and are easy to raise to let the sunshine in.
I have read that you can paint the shade if you first apply a shellac coat, but never tried it.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Oct 30th, 2019 05:14 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1717th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2227
A Use for Old Furniture Webbing
By Jim Six
I found an old package of chair webbing from the 70's in my garage. So I thought it would make great support for making hills. I wanted a gentle slope above my cliffs that have been blasted out for the rail lines. It was super easy to use' just a staple gun and scissors. Also free.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Nov 1st, 2019 09:25 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1718th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2228
Using Dry Wall Tape for Scenery Support
By Ed Pullman
For Scenery Support, I have used the sticky-back Fiberglass mesh drywall tape. It is not free as such but it makes a handy support for plaster hard-shell scenery methods.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Nov 5th, 2019 03:03 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1719th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2229
Using String Light LED’s for Buildings
By Geoffrey Tingwell

For my “indoor” building lighting, I have been using string light LEDs with a lot of satisfaction.  String lights can be found in many hobby stores, often wrapped in twine which can be disassembled to provide a string of LEDs. I use the warm white variety. 
The LEDs are about 4 inches apart and i just cut a string of as many as I need, determine which wire is positive & negatice and attach the resistor.  I use a 12 volt 500 milliamp wall wart as power and a bus system similar to a DCC system for power distribution.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Nov 8th, 2019 12:34 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1720th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 3045
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2230
The Case for why I am using  a Foam Base for my portable layout
By Stan Neylon

For my portable layout, foam is stable, impervious to moisture-generally, unless you decide to dump a keg over it, doesn't 'work' like most organics (wood, etc)-and in general, will leave you alone. As my turnout 'machines' are servo motors, it is fairly easy to cut my turnouts into the layout using a kitchen knife (your wife's new ones...) and a jab saw. 
One thing I did-largely to provide an easy way to do yard trackage, was to do a layer of cork (found at craft stores-cheap), and then cut around this for turnouts, etc.

An important note from Trevor and Nigel,

I received this morning ( my time) a note from Nigel concerning the use of foam as outlined by Stan -


Hi Trevor,HD closed cell foam has a grain, will warp with time as outgassing continues, and it expands and contracts with heat/cold. Solvent based paints will cause it to bubble, as will most cyanoacrylate adhesives. White glue adhesives such as PVA detach with time, and most solvent-based glues will attack it. Plaster bandage will delaminate. Contact dermatitis is not uncommon.  Nigel


My reply was as follows


Hi Nigel,
Thanks for the heads up on this - I presume Stan meant the blue insulation foam which I would have thought impervious to the situations you mention and a lot of layouts in mags seem to be using foam as a base?  I had a blanket approval from him years ago and have not had contact for a long timeSpeaking of my own experience, I have the hills on my own layout which is three layers of white foam and coated with plaster and joined with white glue -  it has been there for the best part of 40 years in two houses, three rooms and two positions in a large shed. Also I have my exhibition layout (in storage) with a ply frame and white foam base and built two "foam block" layouts with the Melton MRC which showed few signs of deterioation apart from when I accidentally hit part of my exhibition layout with a spray can and caused a lot of pot holes. These layouts were all with the white packing foam and seemed to be quite stable. Having said that, all these have been in very airy spaces so the degassing may not have been an issue in such quarters.
...Thanks Again for the input!  Regards  Trevor



For all of you, ANY artificial product such as MDF, Foam, Ply, Sundeala etc has its pitfalls and some of you may have reactions to some or all of these products or some of the other materials we use in model railways - please take care of your own health and modify any of our suggestions to suit YOU!


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 5310     Current time is 04:24 pm Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  81  82  83  84  85  86  87  Next Page Last Page    
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.