Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  79  80  81  82  83  84   
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Thu May 9th, 2019 07:12 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1661st post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2170
Preserving Threads in Plastic
By Graeme Nitz
When screwing a metal thread screw into plastic that has already been threaded such as a bogie bolster, turn the screw anti clockwise (ie undo the screw) until you feel the screw drop into the thread and then tighten it up. This stops the metal thread cutting a new thread and ultimately destroying the plastic so there is no thread.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 12th, 2019 06:27 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1662nd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2171
A Recycled Gluing Jig for Buildings
By Kevin Rowbotham
Micro-Mark sells a magnetic gluing Jig for assembling kits etc.  I liked it but with the cost of shipping to Canada I couldn't get off the fence about buying one.
Then I read where someone had used the top half of the 'chassis' from an old VCR as a gluing jig...this is what I came up with.  I bought some inexpensive magnets from Princess Auto (Canada's Harbour Freight) for less than $10. Overall it has worked pretty well for me.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed May 15th, 2019 11:37 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1663rd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2172
Gluing Plaster Castings
By Kevin Rowbotham

When I glue plaster parts together, I use a heavy duty  Wood Glue. I like it a lot better than epoxy because it is not as messy and it is thinner in the joints.
For clamping plaster parts together I started using hot glue. It sticks well enough to hold the parts until the wood glue dries. A few hours later, it pops off pretty easily.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun May 19th, 2019 12:01 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1664th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2173
Using Plastic Containers
By John Whitten

I use plastic yogurt cups as glue pots. Be sure to wash them out before using! Some of the taller ones have a wider base at the bottom which make it more difficult to accidently tip over.


You can get little plastic (tupperware-style) dishes, which normally hold baby food, cheaply from a discount store, which are great for holding small parts, screws, etc. and are easy to label with a bit of tape, and store away when not in-use.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed May 22nd, 2019 05:39 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1665th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2174
Replacing Kadee Coupler Springs
By John Whitten
You can use a straight pin to help place the springs on couplers. Push the pin through the middle of the spring and then ease a bit of it out onto the nib of the coupler. Then ease it around to the other nib and gently pull the pin out. It makes placing the springs downright easy. And they almost never fly away. If they do spring, most of the time they spring back onto the pin.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed May 29th, 2019 05:00 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1666th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2175
Using Super Glue Gel
By Michael Liddicoat
I have often found superglue a little tricky to control in some situations.  Gel types really help me to get the spot of glue exactly where I want it – but be warned, gels are often instant grab.



Hints & Tips No. 2176
Making Covered Steel Coil Loads
By Charlie Lewis
When you open C and D size batteries, save the package (the plastic part) toss the paper. Carefully take the batteries out, cut the plastic in half across the middle, place one half on top of the other and glue together. Take a tissue and paint it, while still damp lay the tissue over the plastic so it conforms to the plastic. When it dries, use the pin striping to hold the tissue in place across the recessed area. Fold the tissue on the ends into something that looks like a triangle. Use a bread tie to simulate a bungee cord. You now have 3 tarped steel coils to be delivered, either by gondola  or flat car.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Jun 1st, 2019 01:23 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1667th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2177
Keeping Interior Lighting from coming through Roof Gaps in Model Buildings
By Ken Kristensen
I have added "suspended ceilings" inside some buildings where I wanted to allow for the removal of the roofs. Since many of my building reside in the garden, the ceiling were made from scrap corrugated plastic signs painted black (lots will available after the elections) on one side and white on the other, but for my indoor layout I use painted sheets of plastic or black and white paper or cardboard. The ceilings were suspended on small "L" brackets glued at the top of the walls. This also allowed me to add ceiling lights similar to doll house fixtures.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 03:13 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1668th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2178
Bending Styrene Rod
By Several Modellers
My first choice would be a small propane torch. The heat would be concentrated in a small area but do not let the flame touch the styrene. Clamp the torch and move the styrene rod. (Ian Stoner)
Try very hot water. Wear kitchen mitts. Worked for me.(Dana Taylor)


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 06:33 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1669th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2179
Cleaning Track of Paint
By Rob Spangler

To clean dried paint clean off my freshly laid track for the most part and leave the paint on the sides completely intact, I used a utility knife blade and scraped the top of the rail.  I was pleasantly surprised at how well and easy it worked. No worries about paint coming off the sides of the rail, no touching up needed. In a couple of areas, I had to go back over a couple spots a second time.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Jun 10th, 2019 07:34 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1670th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2180
Holding Cards
By Dave Husman
I use cards for my freight car forwarding/waybills etc. I bought 1 inch "combs", the plastic binding spines, from an office supply store (obviously Office Depot), punched 3 holes in the plastic spine and used #6 x 1/2 pan head screws to screw it to the fascia.  It can be used to hold car cards up where they can be seen or manipulated. I earlier used a "J" strip where the cards just sat in a slot, but I like the combs better, they actually clamp and hold the car cards so they will not fall over or get knocked off, plus the combs are soft and will give if somebody brushes up against them.  


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Jun 13th, 2019 06:39 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1671st post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2181
An Alternative to a Vacuum for the Track
By Several Modellers
One of the biggest issues we have found is spikes and magnetic stuff on the tracks fouling mechanisms.  We built a carriage underframe from an old boxcar kit (Athearn Blue Box) and stuck rare earth magnets underneath the frame. We were surprised how much junk the magnets picked up that would have wound up in undesirable places.
The earth magnets were small and easily concealed and run as a work train with a track cleaning car. Covering them with a small amount of cling wrap would make that residue easier to remove.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Jun 16th, 2019 07:17 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1672nd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2182
An Alternative to a using LED’s in N scale Searchlight Signals
By Mel Perry
Rather than use LED’s, you could use fiber optics and pipe the light from an LED under the layout. 1.5mm should be pretty close to the right diameter for a light for N scale.  A bi-color LED should put out enough light to make a good looking signal. Drill a small hole in the cone of the LED and place a clean end of the fibre optic in the hole in the LED under the layout. Saves unsightly wires being overscale.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Jun 19th, 2019 09:20 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1673rd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2939
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No. 2183 Pt 2
Modelling on the Cheap Ideas
By Dave Nelson
The Bucyrus-Erie factory in South Milwaukee, WI. is both rail served and has its own railroad, and my upcoming model will need a large supply of its open loads.  
I recall seeing the enormous B-E draglines or strip mining shovels be shipped out, the inter-plant rail movements of the inner “guts” of such machines, and the bone-yard of rusting spare parts for older models. I am less concerned with exactly replicating a particular piece or part than with conveying the impression of the massive steel fabrications that make up every aspect of these huge machines.
Dental floss containers have the crisp lines of steel fabrications. Inside, a structural-looking arched piece has an axle that holds the short tubing on which the floss is rolled. You swear to your dentist that you floss after each meal, so surely you can accumulate a nice supply of the containers for your own projects in no time.
The bodies and caps of motel shampoo bottles - admit it, you take them home, too -- also have a fabricated look. Solid deodorants provide an industrial-looking threaded shaft; the toothed wheel becomes a large gear. The other parts of the packaging are cast to look like welded, rolled, or cast steel.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 5310     Current time is 09:39 am Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  79  80  81  82  83  84     
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.