Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  69  70  71  72  73  74   
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON - Hints & Tips - Reference Area. - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 12:03 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1461st post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1976
Tiny or Scrap Tile Pieces
by Bob Bochenek

A small piece of smooth glazed tile is ideal for dispensing small amounts of CA and other adhesives. Squeeze a bubble onto the tile and pick up the amount you need with a small applicator or toothpick. What makes this especially neat is that I let the unused material just dry and then just a quick swipe of the single edge razor blade makes it clean again for re-use. '
This beats using paper or cardboard which can suck up the moisture, or trying to find a scrap piece of styrene to use. You can possibly get an odd tile for free from a friendly retailer!


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2017 01:08 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1462nd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1977
Making an Uncoupling Tool more visible
by Paul Cutler
If you use a skewer or similarly shaped tool as an uncoupler particularly between Kadee and other brand knuckle couplers, I recommend dipping the end of the wire in yellow or white paint. It makes it much easier to see it between the cars when you are grabbing for the “hose” or between the knuckles. The uncoupling tool works by simply hooking the tool (at the last 90 degree bend) onto the air hose of the car or loco on the left and pulling it toward you so the coupler swings away from the other coupler. You must have a small amount of slack to make it work. It takes a minute or two to get the hang of it but once you do it is really easy and you can do it anywhere you can reach.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Oct 2nd, 2017 09:06 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1463rd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1978
Filling in small detail holes
by Mike Holly and Ross Barker

While working on detailing my diesel locos, I decided to remove some details such as the antenna on the centre of the roof. To fill these holes, I glued a tip of a wooden
skewer into the hole. After cutting the skewer flush with the surface, I sand the skewer slightly, making it flush with the area I am filling in. The rest of the skewer can the be used for scale flag poles or fence posts or downpiping so it not wasted.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 08:52 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1464th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1979
Detailing with Rust and Weathering
by Mike Holly
To add local rust spots, I apply straight 70% isopropyl alcohol to the area where I want the rust. Before the alcohol evaporates I apply rust-coloured powder (chalk or powder paint ) directly into the alcohol with a size 00 paint brush. I blend the rust into the body with a wide soft brush. I add dirt to the lower part of the loco or carbody and frame using a grey powder and large makeup brush. As a last step, I secure the powders in place with flat clear-coat.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Oct 7th, 2017 08:33 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1465th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1980
Avoiding White Chips in Plaster Scenery
by Don Sali
When I mix plaster for landscaping, I mix in an earth tone suitable for the area I am scenicking in the wet plaster mix. If part of my scenery happens to chip at all through a bit of clumsiness, then the earth tinting will show rather than the tell tale white. The cheapest dyes available from Reject/Pound/Dollar Shops. I use a flexible ice cream container and an old metal egg whip when mixing plaster. It is important that any container you use for mixing plaster is flexible – it makes it much easier to get any chunks of plaster out should I mess up and let them get hard before cleaning.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Oct 10th, 2017 08:16 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1466th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1981
Using Masking Tape
by Adam Bailey

Tape should be removed either immediately after applying paint while the paint film is still almost liquid - OR - after the paint is fully dried. The worst time to remove ape is when the paint is “somewhat dry”. If the tape is removed when the paint is semi-liquid then there is no tearing of the paint film.
If the tape is removed after the paint is fully dried then the paint film is torn by the tape during removal however the paint has developed enough adhesion to the painted object so as to be able to tolerate this. In between these two extremes is where edge sharpness problem during tape removal becomes a problem.

Bleed under tape is caused by insufficient pressure to the tape during application. If the surface is rough then even with adequate pressure there may still be gaps. Using ape for a paint edge works best on smooth surfaces.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Oct 14th, 2017 03:50 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1467th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1982
A Turntable Dust Cover
by Kenneth Kalitowski
I have the large Walthers HO 130’ programmed turntable. It’s about 19” edge-to-edge. Walther’s encourages keeping the pit clean and frequent comments from users on forums are that it must be kept clean to ensure proper operation. And of course, a basement is not the cleanest environment.
I used to cover the turntable with plastic bags or other makeshift covers – it looked bad and was hard to put on or take off without damaging things.  My wife suggested using a deli food tray cover from the grocery store. We went to our local Food Store and got their deli’s largest food tray cover. It measures about 18.5 inches in diameter and about 4.5 inches tall. It is really quite sturdy and clear plastic. It cost us only 50 cents and it is perfect!
It covers the pit completely, except for a small part of the very outer edges. It rests on the rails so there is a slight 1/8” or so gap on the bottom. I find the gap inconsequential, but an industrious individual might cut slots in the cover for the rails to eliminate the gap. I like that the turntable is clearly visible when the cover is on. I can easily lift the cover off with the little tab on the cover when I will be using the turntable and roundhouse. It is very easy to put back on without damaging anything.



Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Oct 17th, 2017 03:41 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1468th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1983

Cheap Circuit Protection in DCC

by Joe Fugate

When there is a short circuit, the DCC system's internal breaker will shut down power to the whole layout. While a single operator can just remove the problem, it is very annoying when there are a several operators and the whole layout shuts down. Sound-equipped locomotives will go through their start-up routines when they lose, and then regain, power. Very annoying.

Eliminate the issue by setting up power districts. There are three basic methods:

1. Add boosters to the original power supply. These are the most expensive option, and most power supplies can run several trains at a time. This will not eliminate shorts, but a short in one district will not shut down trains in others.

2 Install circuit breakers for each district. These are cheaper than boosters.

3. Install 12 volt 21 to 25 Watt automotive lamps wired in series for isolated train blocks. This will restrict the current to 2.0 amps when there is a short. Excess current heats the filament and lights the bulb – warning of a problem – but the breaker does not cut out.

Operation on the other train blocks is not affected. You still need to do something about the short, but you get a warning and the short does not pull the whole system down.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2017 05:08 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1469th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1984

Insulating Headlight Resistors in Locomotive Shells

by Andy Hauser

A recent article I read on installing DCC in a locomotive said you will need to insulate lighting resistors in the shell. My method not only accomplishes high heat for a long

that, but affixes them to the period of time, can be shell itself. I use a Silicone, used for making automotive gaskets. It is an “RTV” type which means it is “room temperature vulcanising”. The product cures without additional heat or special treatment. Being a gasket product it is made to withstand high heat for a long period of time so your resistor should be safe.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017 09:44 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1470th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1985

A Cheap Ballast Rake

by Terry Roberts

I made a simple tool that helps spread and level ballast before adding glue. It started life as the cheapest toothbrush I could find at The Dollar Store/Pound Store/ Reject Shop. The brush needs to be a rectangle that is wider than your track gauge. I cut off the handle close to the brush, trying to match the shape of the other end of the brush. I filed the back of the head and the end of the handle to get a flat gluing surface. I thought I would need to use epoxy but found that MEK worked to glue the handle to the back of the brush. You may have to experiment to determine the best adhesive to use with your brush.

I tried the ‘rake’ and was pleasantly surprised at how quickly it spread and leveled ballast, while leaving very little of it on the ties. I found that putting the bottom row of bristles in the web of the rail removed virtually all ballast piled against the rail – stuff that, until now, I found onerous to remove using other techniques. This is now the first tool I use when ballasting.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Oct 25th, 2017 08:26 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1471st post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1986

Some Cheap Painting Aids

by Joe Brugger

An ordinary wire coat hanger stand takes a couple of minutes to improvise into a shape that will hold most bodies. A loop of drafting tape on the inside of the shell helps to hold the body steadily while you rotate it spraying. A cheap lazy susan type table also reduces the need to touch models while painting them. Aluminium foil is impervious to paint, cheap, and can hold itself in place as a bulk masking. You can use drafting tape used to seal the edges.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 09:16 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1472nd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1987
Spraying Light Colours
by Joe Brugger
Not all colours lay down the same. You can be a hero spraying engine black and oxide red, but lighter colours will leave you ready to pitch a project through the window. When spraying light colours, fog on a light even coat. Let it set up for a couple of hours, and repeat. Trying to cover a model in one pass with yellow (or white, grey,
orange, many reds etc.) will leave a drippy mess that pools in the foot wells and along the walkways, obscuring detail. Lay down paint on the tricky areas like inside corners first, then go back to fill in the easy parts.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 09:42 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1473rd post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1988
Aging Wooden Doors in Model Buildings
by Emmanuel Nouaillier

To break the glowing aspect and impart some ‘life’ to wooden doors I have made, I first perform some incisions on the lower part of the door with the back of a scalpel blade. Then to add more realism, some joints between the planks are deeply engraved. The more you do the more the door will seem old and well used. I wanted to reproduce old lettering that had been weathered from the door (accessories for motors, reparations, etc.,), I used old dry Letraset rub down transfer letters that match the result I am looking for. After having applied them with a graphite pencil, they are inlaid as much as possible into the grain with an old brush with its hairs shortened, then scuffed with fine emery paper.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 11:05 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1474th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1989
Clearing “Surplus” Plastic from Scribed Grooves
by Emmanuel Nouaillier
To eliminate the small bits of waste plastic collected in the joints when I scribe planks into sheet plastic, I pass a fine metallic brush thoroughly over the surface from top to bottom. By doing this, you will not only clear the slots of any excess plastic, but also obtain really fine ‘veins’ representing the open grain of the wood. To reproduce a deeper grain, you can use the engraving point again, and accentuate this effect especially towards the bottom of the planks.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 08:46 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1475th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1990
Weathering Open Wagons and Gondolas
by Kevin Klettke
Apply a liberal coat of rust- and dirt-coloured artists oil paint to the entire inside of your wagon. Thin the paint to the consistency of latex wall paint. Coat the [highlight= transparent; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;]sides using vertical strokes. Sprinkle pencil shavings and any small, appropriate-looking odds and ends from your scrap box on top of the wet [highlight= transparent; font-family: Ubuntu; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;]paint. Make the floor debris random and uneven. Small piles tend to accumulate in the corners, simulating the rust and small pieces of scrap left after unloading. You may want to use a small drop of CA to secure any larger pieces.
Next, sprinkle on some weathering powder or chalk. Not much is needed here. Use several colours, again making the distribution random. Liberally dribble paint thinner over the chalk and pencil shavings with an eye dropper. This will dissolve the weathering powders and bond the powders and ‘scrap’ together. Use the cheap paint brush, lightly dabbing the chalk areas to disperse and flatten any large globs of weathering powder. Try not to blend the colour too much. Just soften the edges to avoid a speckled look.

What is more, all of my removable scrap loads fit right over the top of these “weathered empties” without disturbing the finished effect.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Nov 9th, 2017 09:28 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1476th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1991
Considerations for Super Elevated Curvature
by Charlie Comstock

Some modellers elect to include super- elevation as a cosmetic consideration to make their curved track look more prototypical. Here are some considerations:
1. Keep the super-elevation reasonable, no more than 4 or 5 scale inches of elevation change from the inner to outer rail
2. Do not use super elevation where another track crosses the curved tracks
3. Only super elevate main tracks. Yard tracks or industrial spurs are not super elevated.
4. Do not super elevate multi track mainlines where there are crossovers between the individual main lines. If you must have a crossover, remember both tracks must be in
the same plane. You will need to raise both sides of the outer track to have a smooth transition between tracks.
A Note from Trevor – I know of at least 2 superelevated tracks in the old Mile End yard in Adelaide Australia on the arrival/departure tracks on the North End of the yard. The south end may have been super-elevated but no where near as pronounced as the North End. Also a number of industrial spurs at Mile End were not very flat where curves were involved.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Nov 12th, 2017 08:27 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1477th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1992
Using Water Colour Pencils
by Bill Beverly

I have added a new tool to my weathering toolbox: water-soluble pencils. These are not ordinary coloured pencils, but a pencil that can be used wet to create a “watercolour paintbrush.”


To use a watercolour pencil, I soak the pencil tip in window cleaner like Windex for about 30 seconds to soften it. Once softened, I have a watercolour paintbrush with the control of a pencil.
I normally keep a small airbrush jar filled with window cleaner on my workbench. This becomes handy to keep the pencil point wet. You will notice that the softened pencil will almost melt into the area that you are colouring. However you will get only about 3 or 4 strokes of the pencil before you need to dip it again. But once softened, it will only take a few seconds of soaking to re-wet the tip.
You can also use the pencils dry and then come back with a small paintbrush dipped in window cleaner to smooth things out. But I find that I do not have as much control with the dry method. One advantage to using watercolour pencils is that if you do not like how the weathering is turning out, simply dip a Q-tip in window cleaner and erase your work. Later on, a light coat of Dullcote will lock everything in. Watercolor pencils will not fade like powdered chalks have a tendency to do when sprayed with Dullcoted.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Nov 16th, 2017 03:17 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1478th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1993
A serious pitfall to avoid when scratch building buildings
by Mark Rindflesh
I almost had to start over after building an entire structure after a fundamental mistake. I built a cold store /factory building using foam core board for the inner layer. Once I had completed this layer, I used Strathmore board for the exterior walls, which I painted first with a layer of grey to simulate painted concrete. I added a second trim layer of white for contrast.
My mistake was to not consider the thickness of these two layers when I built the foam core interior. Once all the layers were applied, it barely fit the industrial site where it was intended to go! I could not move it sideways because it sat between two tracks and I could not move it back because it was right against an end wall! It did fit, but clearances I had been intending were compromised by 1/8th of an inch. I decided to live with the mistake as it is in an industrial area and everything runs very slowly in this part of town, anyway.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sat Nov 18th, 2017 08:40 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1479th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1994
Using Foam Core for Roads and Platforms
by Mark Rindflesh
I used foam core board for my roads and platform areas. I wanted to represent concrete so I gouged the surface here and there to create potholes or broken areas. I then softened the gouges with spackle before painting them a concrete colour. I scribed expansion joints and added the broken white lane lines using white paint and a stencil I cut from an old card folder. I used grey and black chalk dust to weather the surface and provide colour variation


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Nov 21st, 2017 10:59 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1480th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2386
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hints & Tips No.1995
Protecting Locos in boxes against deteriorating Foam Mouldings
by Vic Roseman

In the 1970s I bought a Liliput (of Austria) plastic locomotive that came in a foam-lined box. A little instruction paper showed their recommended method of wrapping the model.
1. Lay out the clear plastic on a flat surface.
2. Place the model about in the centre of the plastic sheet.
3. Take hold of the upper and lower edges of the plastic and lift, sort of like a little sling.
4. Lower this into the foam-lined box.
5. Fold over the excess plastic.
6. To remove the model, just take hold of the two plastic sheet “lips” (edges) and lift the model out of the box.


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 5310     Current time is 06:09 pm Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  69  70  71  72  73  74     
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Reference Area. > Hints & Tips > HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.