Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Metcalfe Building Kits. > Lighting inside a card building To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Lighting inside a card building - Metcalfe Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 01:27 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1st post
Trainfish
Resident alcoloholic


Joined: Fri Nov 13th, 2009
Location: Devizes, United Kingdom
Posts: 931
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have looked around the forum and couldn't find anything on this, no doubt someone will soon put me straight on this though :shock:

I'm about to start building my 'street consisting of Metcalfe low relief houses and shops in red brick. Ultimately I want to have lights inside them and wondered what the best way to do this would be? I'm guessing LV filament lamps are out due to the heat generated so maybe LEDs are the answer? Only thing is, I've never used LEDs and am not sure how much they would 'throw' the light. If LEDs are the way to go maybe someone can point me in the right direction towards where is best to purchase the right type and also what is involved with wiring them. I'm ok with electrickery as I did an apprenticeship with the stuff but to be honest haven't really done much hands-on stuff for years apart from extra sockets in the garage etc.
Anyway, can anyone help?

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 01:36 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 2nd post
Sol
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

TF, I would as a starter have a look at the index under L  - there are 6 topics . Study those & then fire specific questions at us.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 03:55 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 3rd post
MikeC
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have standard grain-of-wheat bulbs in my Metcalfe shops and no sign of any scorching, not that I run them for long periods of time. I was also careful to keep them clear of the card. They are 1.5 volts and they run off rechargeable AA batteries.
In the Metcalfe goods shed I have a single 12v grain-of-wheat bulb, and again no problems. It runs off the controller.
I'm sure LEDs would be fine and would throw plenty of light but I have never used them. I'm electrically challenged in the extreme :lol:

Mike

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 07:05 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 4th post
phill
Hello


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Lancing West Sussex, United Kingdom
Posts: 6496
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Found this info about lighting buildings up, step by step guide, you may find it usefull?

http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Scenery/lighting.htm

When you get on the page just scrol down.

Phill

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 07:15 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 5th post
owen69
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Trainfish,grain of wheat/rice bulbs are fine,they only scorch if left on for hours
 and if they are to close to the card, but a bit of kitchen foil behind the bulb stops that.
i have used 6vlt g,o,w on my layout with no probs.
if you decide to use l.e.ds then try this seller on ebay  "handsignalman " he
supplies them plus the resisters very reasonable.

:hmm:lol::lol::cool:

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 07:36 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 6th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2957
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I only have LED's in my street lights and inside buildings and the small yellow types cast a fairly good incandescent glow with suitable "throw of light" which unfortunately l cannot show you a night view digitally yet... yet!

I also have higher intensity ones in my yard lights so my consumption is very low for 20 or 30 "globes".  The other advantage is that the heat is really minimal almost non existent  unlike incandescent globes. Plus at 80000 hours life, you don't change as many...

Hope this helps

Trevor


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 09:43 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 7th post
Geoff R
Member
 

Joined: Sun Nov 8th, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1317
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have fitted LEDs in several Metcalfe buildings. I use yellow ones runnning off 12volts with a 1k resistor in series with each LED. Here are a few night time pictures of the station buildings if it helps.
















This last one is just a favourite shot of mine showing a late night traveller waiting under a station lamp. The lamp is again a yellow LED with 1K resistor off 12 volts.


 

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 09:52 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 8th post
xdford
Member
 

Joined: Tue Aug 11th, 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2957
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Geoff,

And thanks Mate you saved me the trouble of showing the ambient light effect! LED's the way to go!

Regards

Trevor

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 12:32 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 9th post
DonBradley
Member


Joined: Fri Sep 11th, 2009
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 150
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Alternatively;

I use incandescent 12 - 15v bulbs in card buildings and have had no scorching or overheating

over plus 5 years. They are powered by old 2nd hand Marklin controllers (cheap)using the variable

output so that the brightness is controlable from dim to bright.

Some examples.

 



 




 




 



 






 

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 01:27 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 10th post
ddolfelin
Straight man to the stars.


Joined: Thu Sep 10th, 2009
Location: Denbighshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5554
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Please see my

"Help to identify these components please."

If those bits are any use to someone, please PM me.
They can be had for a modest donation to a local Childrens' Charity.
Donation will be to me via PayPal.



____________________
http://dddioramas.webs.com/

11 + 2 = 12 + 1
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 04:44 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 11th post
BLG
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides


Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 04:52 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 12th post
Trainfish
Resident alcoloholic


Joined: Fri Nov 13th, 2009
Location: Devizes, United Kingdom
Posts: 931
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

ddolfelin wrote: Please see my

"Help to identify these components please."

If those bits are any use to someone, please PM me.
They can be had for a modest donation to a local Childrens' Charity.
Donation will be to me via PayPal.

I have responded to your "Help to identify these components please" post, let me know what you want and I'm sure we can sort out a suitable donation.

To all the others, thanks very much for your help, it really is appreciated. I think there are possibilities for each different type of lighting and I will have a play with some to see which suit me best. Even the idea of using an old controller has given me an idea for the spare HM2000 units which I have. The idea of being able to dim lights sounds good to me. Ok, the HM2000 is probably a bit over the top but I have 2 or 3 so they won't cost me a penny! Does anyone see any problems with using these? I was going to sell them and the HM4000 I have but it seems silly to do so now.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 06:55 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 13th post
owen69
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

if i have this right :roll: the only thing to remember isnot to turn the control knob to reverse
as this changes the polarity, led` don`t like that you could burn em out.

some one will correct this if it is wrong ;-)
:thumbs:lol::cool:

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 07:07 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 14th post
Geoff R
Member
 

Joined: Sun Nov 8th, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1317
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Just feed all of your LED power through a single 1N4002 diode connected to the forward positive terminal at the controller output. You can then connect up to 100 LEDs each with 1K ohm resistors to this diode. Turning the controller into reverse will then have no affect. Also if you accidentally connect an LED the wrong way round, you won't blow it up.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2009 07:14 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 15th post
owen69
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

cheers Geoff i did not know that,now where is that spare ...

:pathead:lol::lol::cool:

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2014 12:49 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 16th post
Fatcontroller
Full Member
 

Joined: Sun Nov 16th, 2014
Location:  Fontenay Pres Vezelay, France
Posts: 9
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have had reasonable success with lighting kits from "First Class Trains" a bit fiddly but they do work, I am about to experiment with a random light controller from train tech, if this is ok I will use them for a 1 metre (actual size) length of Metcalfe low relief terraced houses. I will let you know how it works out.



____________________
fatcontroller
There's someone in my head, but it's not me
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2014 08:19 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 17th post
Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5993
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looking forward to the report FC.

Marty



____________________
Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2014 11:22 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 18th post
Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4557
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have found the light emitted by the standard 3mm dome ended led is quite directionsl, focusing about 2 inches away. By filing a flat on the plastic case it seems to spread out more suiably for an interior application.

Doug



____________________
'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Nov 19th, 2014 10:42 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 19th post
Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16622
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Do you mean filing the flat on the domed head Doug ?  I must try that ............:roll:



____________________
'Petermac
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Nov 20th, 2014 02:21 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 20th post
Chubber
Casseroled Badger


Joined: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008
Location: Ivybridge, Devon, Gateway To Dartmoor.. , United Kingdom
Posts: 4557
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Yup, just flattening the domed end. A more definte cut off can be obtained by simply dipping it in black paint.

Doug



____________________
'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 5219     Current time is 03:12 am Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page    
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Metcalfe Building Kits. > Lighting inside a card building
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.