Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Using Woodland Scenics Road System To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Using Woodland Scenics Road System - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 08:42 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 1st post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2635
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I thought I would set up a separate thread on using the Woodland Scenics Road System.

My goals in this was to make as realistic looking concrete road as I could possible do. In that regard I decided to put a crown in the road. I used a 1/8" high I-Beam (strip styrene) and bonded it in place along the center line of the road. The paving tape from Woodland is 1/16" high so that would put a crown of 1/16" in the road.

If I were to do this again, I'm quite sure it would come out much better. Once you have mixed up the materials and tried to use them it doesn't take long to figure out that the mixture was off a bit.

That said, here are several photos and some explanations.

Shown below are the materials used for the system. That white rectangular piece is the "spreader" that comes with the paving tape. It is nothing but a piece of styrene, but it does do the job quite well.


This is the road way that is now all prepped and waiting for the plaster to be poured. I have scuff sanded the surface for better adhesion. I did do one thing wrong here. When I cut out the styrene roads shape I should have allowed for the width of the paving tape. I had cut the shape basically right where I wanted the concrete to stop. So there was no place to put the paving tape. :twisted: So I just placed the whole thing on my work table and stuck the paving tape on it. I did have to double up the layers though to get the height back to where it belonged. Live and learn!


I mixed up enough material (I thought) to do one lane. I really didn't think I would have enough time to do the whole thing in one pour. The working time is 15 minutes, and that is ALL you get. I'm thinking now that if the mixture was a little bit wetter it would extend that time some. I'll try it next time.

As you can see I had difficulty in getting the material to properly fill the cavity. I really think the mixture was too thick. It didn't look to thick in the mixing bowl though.


I let the first lane set for about 40 minutes, then mixed up another batch (a little bit thinner this time) and poured the west bond lane. You can actually see that this batch was thinner. The voids don't have sharp edges to them.



Well I did not like what I was seeing so I decided to mix up another batch, this time VERY THIN. When I stopped adding the powder to the water it actually looked like it was way too watery, but it worked super. If you look closely at this picture and the one above it you can see that most of the voids have been filled in. I will now wait about a half hour and remove the paving tape. You may notice that I had already removed it from the east bound lane.


Now here is the image that shows what the crown in the road really looks like.


Oh and one more tip, always have a place where you can use up the excess mixture. This worked very well here on my S-Curve.


Once this has dried for 24 hours I will start sanding it down to a smooth surface (hopefully).

Got to go and remove the paving tape.

Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 08:59 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 2nd post
Alan
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wayne

I don't think I have seen this product before, is it like polyfilla ?

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 09:01 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 3rd post
henryparrot
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wayne

Try scraping it with a Stanley blade (utility knife blade ) holding the blade nearly vertical and dragging it i found that worked really well with polyfilla

cheers Brian

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 09:13 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 4th post
Robert
Deceased Member


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Benidorm, Alicante, Spain
Posts: 12454
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I have used builders plaster many times on peoples layouts for roads and I always start by making a profile of the road surface out of card. I then coat the card with shellac to waterproof it, slap down a bit more plaster depth than I know the finished product requires and then drag the profile through the soft plaster. This method will give you a perfect road finish so if you want pot holes and road scars then you must put these in before the plaster sets. A dose of washing up liquid in the plaster will slow down the setting time and give you a chance to do what you want with the road surface.



____________________
The time in Spain is :


Barchester
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Sep 23rd, 2009 11:10 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 5th post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2635
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Alan wrote:
I don't think I have seen this product before, is it like polyfilla ?


Alan,
I am not familiar with Polyfilla, so I cannot answer that. This is basically a plaster product and will sand very easily.

It seems to be drying way faster than the other Woodland Scenics Products that I have been using lately. Probably because it is applied much thinner. I will be sanding it tomorrow for sure.

Brian,
I may give the blade idea a try. There is very little to sand down so I will probably start with some fine sand paper and go from there.

Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 04:50 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 6th post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2635
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, this has not been a good day! :twisted: While trying to clean up the edges of the road way, I chipped out about a 2" long section 1/2" wide. :twisted::twisted::twisted:

This Woodland Scenics material does NOT stick (even when it's sanded) to styrene well at all. In hind sight, I probably should have used balsa wood.

Once it is on the layout and never bothered with again, it should be fine, but I would not recommend using styrene as a base for the Woodland Scenics Road System.

I am going to make a paper template of the shape of this section and keep it on file in case something happens to this in the future. After all it is located right on the corner of the layout where all the people traffic will be.

I will be posting more pictures of the repair job soon.

Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 05:27 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 7th post
Gwent Rail
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

With the benefit of 20/20 hindsight, Wayne. Would you say that (where accessible) the Woodland Scenics road kit should be built directly onto the base of the layout?? (As opposed to using any form of substrate at all)

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 05:43 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 8th post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2635
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Assuming that the top of the baseboard is some kind of wood, I would say yes the Woodland Scenics Road System would work a lot better. Almost any kind of wood has a grain to it and thus something for the plaster to grip onto. Plus the wood will soak up some of the moisture and therefor particles of the plaster giving much better adhesion.

My next road section will have a whole different set of materials for the plaster to bond with. The S-Curve is 1/2 plaster based materials and the other half right now is foam. I already know that the plaster does not bond well with the smooth surface of the foam, so I'm thinking about using balsa wood in that location. I guess it will be just another test of the Woodland Scenics Road System.

Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 05:50 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 9th post
Gwent Rail
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

On styrene, a coat of PVA (white) glue, allowed to dry, would help

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 08:48 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 10th post
rector
Now where did I put that...?


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: New York USA
Posts: 3956
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wayne, just for info - Pollyfilla is a brand of spackle.



____________________
Tim. Cleric and artist, finding his railway modelling stuff after too long in the wilderness.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 09:14 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 11th post
Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 17050
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Following on from Bob's post about using plaster Wayne,  is the Woodland Scenics material expensive - or indeed,  better than plaster ?

MikeC used a product I'd never heard of called "water putty" (I think) for his roadway on Swanhurst.  I have no experience with either water putty or the Woodland product so this thread, in conjunction with Mike's will be most interesting to compare.



____________________
'Petermac
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2009 10:03 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 12th post
MikeC
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Sorry it's giving you grief, Wayne. I haven't tried using water putty on top of styrene, but I suspect it too wouldn't adhere.
On the plus side of things, your road surface is looking  good! Clever move too, putting the strip down the middle for an instant line.

Mike

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 12:19 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 13th post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2635
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Jeff,
Never thought about PVA glue, I may give it a test!

Petermac,
The cost of the Paving Tape is $7.99 for a roll that says it will do 26 foot of road. The Smooth-It is a 1 Quart container and costs $5.99. It doesn't say how much or how far it will go, but I would think it would take at least three to go 26 foot to match the paving tape.

MikeC,
Well the instant center line does keep things in line and does look good right now. I really didn't do it for the center line, I did it for the crown in the road, but hay, two birds with one stone, is good for me!

A little about the Smooth-It:

This stuff, while a little messy, is really easy to work with. It does take a few tries to get the mixture down right for what you are trying to accomplish though. The ratio they tell you to mix it by would use half of the container and you would end up throwing the bulk of it away. So you must reduce the amount down to use it without wasting it.

This plaster sands extremely easy, if fact so easy if you push real hard with the sanding block I think you could remove 25% of you thickness. It does create a LOT of fine dust when sanding to.

If your first mix leaves small pin holes or depressions, fixing that is also very easy. Just mix up a thinner version and wipe it on, let dry and very lightly touch sand. After you are done sanding you cannot tell where you were even working on it. I had chipped out a large section and re-poured it and you can't see where it was right now.

This plaster is very brittle so if you are putting it on a removable piece in your layout, it should be very well supported or I will guarantee you it will crack up while you are handling it.


After the repairs were made I did some work around the entrance to the viaduct. It looks much better now, maybe because it's not all blue!



I left a small flat spot on the left side of the road for the pumping station. Since there really is no pumping station located there, I will be doing some research on pumping stations.


And another view from a different direction.


Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 12:41 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 14th post
MikeC
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Very nice result!

Mike

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 01:20 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 15th post
Gwiwer
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Sounds like you have encountered the same sort of trial and error issues I have with Woodland products there Wayne. Sometimes they come up too thick and sometimes just too much.

But you have persisted and got a decent result out of it so well done.

As you say this product is best mixed quite thinly how would you think it might go on a steep road? Would it all just run down the hill or does it go off quickly enough to avoid that?

I am looking at alternatives to the Metcalfe printed bitumen sheets I have in use now as they shrink slightly at the joins over time and create obvious gaps which are proving hard to eradicate. They are a bit shiny when new also though that can be rectified with Dullcote or a light rub with a soft pencil.

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 02:10 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 16th post
Marty
Enjoying the Journey


Joined: Sun Oct 14th, 2007
Location: Perth, Western Australia, Australia
Posts: 5995
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Wayne,

I like how you have made the crown of the road higher to allow for drainage.

To get more flexibility and "stickability" with the polyfiller/plaster/Woodland scenics road base how about mixing a good dollop of PVA with it.

That's how I do my bark goop for my trees. Seems to work OK and allows a little "give" without cracking.

How well is it sticking to the blue foam you have used as your hill base?



____________________
Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 05:46 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 17th post
Christrerise
Former Member
 

Joined: 
Location:  
Posts: 
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Looks very good in situ Wayne - slowly the blue is vanishing!

Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 07:52 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 18th post
ddolfelin
Straight man to the stars.


Joined: Thu Sep 10th, 2009
Location: Denbighshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5554
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Nice work.
I take it that this layout is not going to be transported.
The mixture must add a little weight. Is this significant?



____________________
http://dddioramas.webs.com/

11 + 2 = 12 + 1
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 11:52 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 19th post
Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 17050
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

If you have a look at Wayne's layout page DD here:   http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21

 - you'll see it's not really portable !!!!!



____________________
'Petermac
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2009 01:06 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 20th post
Wayne Williams
Member


Joined: Mon Oct 15th, 2007
Location: Hudson, Florida USA
Posts: 2635
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Rick,
Even when I mixed the Smooth-It very thin it really doesn't run a lot. Yes it does start to run, but if you spread it out more it stops. So I'm going to say it this way, the thicker you pour it, the more it will run.

I had one spot that had a "drop off" if you will right at the edge of where the S-Curve is. This hole was 1/8" deep and about 1/4" wide by a 1/2" long. I poured in a thin mix, it started to run out and down the outside edge (4" vertical drop), but I put my squeegee up against the vertical wall to stop the runoff, and held it there for about three seconds, then wiped it away from the edge and the material stayed right there and quit running down. So I would not be afraid to pour this Smooth-It on a slope at all.

Marty,
You asked about mixing PVA with the Smooth-It. Well I have not given that a thought, but sounds like another test that could be done.

As far as the Smooth-It sticking to the blue foam goes, if I do nothing to the foam, it doesn't do well at all. When I tried to sand it with a sanding block the entire area just pulverized. However when I scraped the foam roughly it seemed to hold fine. The problem was it took more Smooth-It to fill all those scraped holes in foam. They get pretty deep when you try and scrap the surface of this foam.

ddolfelin,
The only time this layout will be moved is when Tim's Axe is helping it! :lol:

As far as the weight is concerned, they tout this as a light weight Subterrain Layout System. I think that I would agree with that statement, it didn't seem to be overly heavy to me.

Thanks for all of your comments guys. Stay tuned for more info on the Woodland Scenics Road System. I will be pouring it over balsa wood and hard plaster on a severe slope (about 14 degrees) soon.

Wayne



____________________
My Layout "The South Shore Line":
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=509&forum_id=21
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 4762     Current time is 12:35 pm  
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Scratchbuilding. > Using Woodland Scenics Road System
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.