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Wills Post office build - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 08:28 pm
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henryparrot
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Petermac wrote: henryparrot wrote:................................................

The most important thing is not to chop of your gonads

cheers Brian

:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

I presume therefore,  that you'll need them later on in the build Brian :roll::roll::roll::roll:


Certainly will at the weathering stage Peter

Now thats confused you:lol::lol:

As a proffesional pond builder i often am asked how to get moss growing quicky on rocks well the easy answer to that is pee on them that promotes algae and moss type growth extremely quickly

So i have a number of customers sneaking out into thier gardens standing or squatting on their rocks peeing on them at night :lol::lol::lol:

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 08:46 pm
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Petermac
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The mind boggles at the thought !!! :shock::shock::shock::shock::shock::hmm:hmm:hmm



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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 09:26 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Maybe peeing on the model will help with the white lime painting. :question - a sort of itch priming. :exclam :lol:



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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 09:32 pm
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Petermac
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MaxSouthOz wrote: Maybe peeing on the model will help with the white lime painting. :question - a sort of itch priming. :exclam :lol:
:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley



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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 09:59 pm
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rector
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Depending on the voltage, some sort of earth connection is surely necessary...



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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 10:25 pm
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Petermac
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rector wrote: Depending on the voltage, some sort of earth connection is surely necessary...
To prevent "power surge"  no doubt. :roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:

I'm waiting for photos of Brian's algae forming pond life and to think, I used to hire morning suits from Moss Bros !! :hmm:hmm



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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 12:09 am
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Myansome
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:hmm We get a lot  of lichen and moss here in Newlyn ........ I thought it was just the rain and warm climate ........ little frost here in winter ....... now I realise that it could be that everyone is outside and  peeing down ....... oh no, sorry, its just peeing down with rain again! :mutley hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm back to Wills; looking good stuff, Brian!



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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 04:13 am
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phill
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Now this is so interesting to watch and follow through, i have often looked at these and backed away due to the intense skill required. Maybe when i have seen your build to the finish and any cock up's being made good (not that you would do any :roll:) i may have a go.

One or 2 questions if i may be so bold Brian, you say one of the tools used could be a razor saw, surely this would leave a jagged edge or i am thinking of the wrong kind?. Also you say you used the measurments from the plan, daft i know to ask but are they spot on or will you not know till later? When you say you scored it with a knife both sides and then snapped it off, i was wondering it seems like tile cutting to some degree and well could i use the tile cutter machine i have to cut these or is that not a good idea?.

Well its nice to see someone building this so we can follow and if any mistakes are made it cost's us nothing, we just learn not to do that one :mutley

Phill

Ps, now i know why the moss is so good on my back wall :oops:

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 07:39 am
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Alan
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Phill

I am sure that Brian will answer your question on the way that he measured and then cut walls out.

When I made two of these kits I photocopied the plans as they are correct, cut out each drawing/plan of a side, and then glued them onto the back of the sheets, this then gave me a working template from which to cut out the doors and windows etc.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 07:48 am
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henryparrot
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Phill

A razor saw is a very common tool modellers use i will post a piccy of one later.

The dimentions given on the drawing i have found are pretty good and as long as you cut the parts to the correct size stated things fit together quite well.

Scoring yes its the same principle as cutting tiles but you do cut deeper on this type of plasticard and on both sides aswell often

 so using a tile cutter would not work in this case unless you had a cutting wheel which was razor sharp of course usually tile cutters have a tungsten carbide cutting wheel which is meant to break the glaze on a tile by crushing more than cuttting.

I would not say its intense skill needed its more a case of take your time look at what you are doing and dont be in a rush to slap it together by spending more time looking at it while you do it you can vastly improve many aspects of the model by spending more time on things you may normally race past.

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 12:15 pm
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Christrerise
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Brian, you are missing a business opportunity here.

Next time you go for a pee, bottle it up.  Label it up "Pond Moss Growth Accelerator" and sell it to the customer for a fiver.  It is organic and contains no chemicals as well!

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 12:19 pm
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Ianbo
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I have always found it re-assuring when making a "Wills" kit that you can normally buy a new plastic sheet to replace any you louse up! (not that we ever make mistakes).:cool wink



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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 02:48 pm
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Perth Buddy
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Christrerise wrote: Brian, you are missing a business opportunity here.

Next time you go for a pee, bottle it up.  Label it up "Pond Moss Growth Accelerator" and sell it to the customer for a fiver.  It is organic and contains no chemicals as well!

Are you sure ??????    Isn't alcohol a chemical :hmm:hmm

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 05:13 pm
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Petermac
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Perth Buddy wrote: Christrerise wrote: Brian, you are missing a business opportunity here.

Next time you go for a pee, bottle it up.  Label it up "Pond Moss Growth Accelerator" and sell it to the customer for a fiver.  It is organic and contains no chemicals as well!

Are you sure ??????    Isn't alcohol a chemical :hmm:hmm

I was just wondering about the price.  What does a pint cost nowadays in UK ?  Plus the bottle,  stopper,  label etc. etc.  At a fiver,  you might as well forget the packaging - just go round peeing on everyones garden Brian and charge an extra fiver for transport. :roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:



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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 05:34 pm
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Alan
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Anyway back on to the topic of this thread

Have you done any more work on the building today Brian ?

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 Posted: Tue Aug 4th, 2009 09:59 pm
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Sol
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Alan wrote: Anyway back on to the topic of this thread

Have you done any more work on the building today Brian ?


Spoil sport :twisted:

 Brian is too busy on his new business offering to be involved with mundane things like model railways :exclam  :pedal

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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 11:55 am
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henryparrot
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Time for another update of progress

Next job was to glue the external chimney breasts for each end together the joints are mitred where they marry




Next job was to glue them to the end walls in position as this is very heavily embossed card there is no way its going to be perfectly flat where it attaches to the wall so extra glue or a filler is required to take up any gaps glue was sufficient in this case.




You will note that the breast only goes as high as the end wall stone this is because this is the maximum width of the plasticard so you have to make up 2 box sections for the top bit and fit them.




At this stage now i spent some time filing filling and trimming where need and cuttting mortar joints with the knife where needed.

I decided now was a good time to begin doing some painting before detail parts started to be added so first i coated the whole thing with a grey colour mix i made up with reeves artists acrylics which i diluted with water to make it less thick so not to lose detail.

Once it had dried i was a bit concerned i had made my grey mix a bit to dark but i knew the next stage would lighten it up a bit.

Now this next stage is not easy to describe its one of those things you need to try yourself to fully grasp how to do it.

Now obviously mortar joints need to be coloured differant than the stone itself and the colour will depend on what type of mortar is used and age of course

In this case i feel a lime mortar would have been used which is a white colour so i decided to use this to start with.

i made up a very waterey wash which would flow easily with some white artists acrylic.

Now to do this you do one face at a time and have gravity as a helper so you start wiith one face faceing upwards.

I then liberally spread the white mix over the entire face ensuring white paint had gone into the crevases i then waited a very short time and got a piece of kitchen cloth and wiped off wite paint from the stonework leaving the creavases with the white paint in also this method does lighten the original paint as the more or less you rub off varies the stone colour slightly.

then i procceded to do the other walls in the same manner using gravity.

As i said this is something you need to experiment with yourself to get the feel of how to do it this way is very simple to do really.

In the index there is an extremely good tutorial by Perry regarding painting brickwork plasticard but his method is the opposite to what i have done he does the mortar first then he paints the brickwork which way is best i dont know.

heres a piccy of the post office base painted




Thats it for now check back for the next instalement all comments good or bad welcome and feel free to ask questions

cheers Brian

 

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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 12:27 pm
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Petermac
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Brian - the stone courses seem to line up very well where the chimney stacks meet the house wall.  Was this difficult to achieve or are all the sheets exactly the same design in which case, it would be virtually automatic ?  I suppose a bit like lining up patterned wallpaper :roll::roll::roll:

The white mortar joints look good :thumbs:thumbs



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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 12:31 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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I'll tell you what, hp - it looks a cracker! It's bit more work by the looks, but well worth it.  The stones look quite blue.  Is that how they would be in the 1 : 1?



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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 12:46 pm
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henryparrot
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Peter

The walls of the main house are more luck than anything lining up although i did use the same datum edge as the bottom on the 4 walls.

The 2 chimney breasts do not tie in that well but in reality these often did not exept for a few keying stones.

Max

To do the white mortar like that actually took no more than 15 minutes in total for the whole building.

In the photo it does look blueish thats my crappy photography in reality it is more grey in varying shades.

And yes you do get cottages here in Cornwall looking just like that obviosly later i will be weathering things a bit

cheers Brian

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