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Misc. Items On The Proctor Farm - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2009 10:24 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Yep, Wayne.  A random signal noise generator, a red LED, a yellow LED and a smoke unit with the big reservoir. :pedal



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 Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2009 10:26 pm
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owen69
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well that should take care of the foam no probs..

:thud:thud:mutley:mutley:cool:

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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 12:54 am
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Wayne Williams
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owen69 wrote:
well that should take care of the foam no probs..

:thud:thud:mutley:mutley:cool:


I agree with Owen, the foam would be dripping out the bottom! :shock:

Actually I did think about it, but the LED's are bigger than the fire wood in the fire pit!

I think I'll go back to painting my concrete!

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 06:25 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Don't forget, Wayne, LEDs come in 3mm, 1.8mm and .8mm; so you don't get out of it that easily :cool wink



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 12:17 pm
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Wayne Williams
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MaxSouthOz wrote:
Don't forget, Wayne, LEDs come in 3mm, 1.8mm and .8mm; so you don't get out of it that easily :cool wink

I did not know that Max, can you tell me what the 3mm, 1.8mm, and .8 mm refers to? Is it the diameter of the LED?

I looked on the packages of what I bought and it says nothing about size (physical), it has all it's ratings but nothing about size.

It sounds like my local Radio Shack store is not a very good source for LED's!

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 12:22 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Yes, Wayne.  The mm is the diameter - although the 1.8s are oblong - just to be difficult!



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 12:27 pm
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Wayne Williams
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MaxSouthOz wrote:
Yes, Wayne.  The mm is the diameter - although the 1.8s are oblong - just to be difficult!


.8 mm, if I did my conversion correctly, that comes out to 1/32" in diameter? Wow, that's small, and yes it would fit in the fire pit easily. Only problem now is where do I find them? I will have to do some internet searching!

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 09:02 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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I understand that DCC Concepts have them, but the N scalers would be the better ones to ask.  I'll have a look around and get back to you.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 10:26 pm
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Sol
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The UK retailer for DCCconcepts  http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/  has them & he is a YMR member to boot.

I would expect they would be readily available in the USA as well.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 01:21 am
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Wayne Williams
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Next up on projects for the Proctor Farm is the front Water Garden. This was put in 8 to 10 years ago, and will be a hugh challenge for me to replicate. At least to make it looks like it does right now anyway.

Here is what the water garden looks like:



I have started the lower pond section (yes, there is a small pond at the top of the water falls too), and have run into a puzzle. The first two pictures shows the lower pond section, hopefully water tight.

In the second picture you can see where I have reduced the outer dam in height, this is to control the depth of the water when I pour it. I want it to stop at that level.




I decided to test it to see if it would leak water. Obviously it cannot leak because it has to hold the material I will use to replicate the water until it hardens.
Now I know that water has a surface tension, but I didn't realize that it could do it to this degree.

Look closely at the first picture, you can see the water is actually touching the lower "stone", way above even the outer edges, let alone how high it is above the section that is the lowest that I'd hoped would control the height.
Take a look at these pictures.




The bloomin water is about 3/32" above the lower relief section. I put the water in with an eye dropper, very slowly.

At any rate, it doesn't leak! :shock: :shock: :shock:

Now I'm wondering how I'm going to actually pour in the fake water and get it to stop at the right height?

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 02:53 am
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Wayne,

From my experiments with the Three Rivers Thread a two pack resin is the way to go if you want a bit of depth.

You can break the surface tension around the edges with a toothpick.

Below is the Blue layer of the resin river (a special preview just to show what can be done.... this photo hasn't made it onto my Three Rivers thread yet.)
If you look carefully at the clear plastic dam at the end of the river you can see that there has been a small amount of evapouration.



Or, fill the pond with something solid, paint it to represent the style of pond bottom you want and then use a thin layer of pva, resin or varnish to give the water it's sheen. Once again using the toothpick to break the surface tension.

You might want to practice on something first.
Mind you, if you plan to add the rock border after the "water" the rocks will hid any areas around the edge that don't look quite right. Rocks and pond plants.

Hope this helps.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 08:29 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Wayne, one way to release the surface tension while you are testing is to put some detergent or isopropyl alcohol in with the water, like you do with the white glue.  A few drops will do in a pond of that size.  Mix it into the test water before you pour it in.  That will allow you to set the pond up level before you pour the epoxy or what ever you plan to use.  Cheers  Max



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 11:14 am
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks for the tips Marty and Max. I have already purchased the water product that I have chosen to use. It is called Realistic Water (for the pond water) and Water Effects (for the water fall), both products are from Woodland Scenics.

After doing the test with just plain water, I agree with Marty, I need to do a test run with the actual product. Not sure if I can put soap or alcohol in with that stuff or not. Probably not.

Anyone every tried to do that?

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 11:29 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Whoaaaa!  Not in the epoxy - in some scrap water to test the level set up.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 07:43 pm
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Wayne Williams
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MaxSouthOz wrote:
Whoaaaa!  Not in the epoxy - in some scrap water to test the level set up.

Max, I'm not asking about putting soap or alcohol in epoxy, I know better than that. :mutley I'm asking about the Woodland Scenics products. The bottle says it's water soluble and non-toxic, but it also says to use a toothpick in tight corners.

The assembly of the water garden is now complete. I do need to water test it again (in all three ponds) before proceeding. I will paint the bottoms and the four water fall stones once water testing is done. Thank goodness that those areas are the only ones you will be able to see once it's landscaped, because the rest of it is bone ugly!!!




Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 08:16 pm
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Petermac
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How are you going to do the goldfish Wayne ?

This is right up to your normal meticulous standard I see. :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs 



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 09:32 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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Sorry mate.  I should have known you wouldn't do that.  The Realistic Water goes in by 2mm pours, so it's a bit easier.  I used Magic Water which is one pour and a bit more challenging, but the toothpick idea still works.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 16th, 2009 01:05 am
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Wayne Williams
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Petermac wrote:
How are you going to do the goldfish Wayne ?

I'm still trying to figure that one out, but I can't seem to get past the lily pads!

Wayne :brickwall :brickwall :brickwall :thud



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 Posted: Tue Jun 16th, 2009 01:41 am
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There was an article somewhere - not much help, I know - about doing lilies. I think my sister has it in a Woodland Scenics modelling book. I THINK they used small bits of paper. She's away at the moment, but I can ask her when she gets back, if you like. You might even find that info on the WS site.  edit: If it's there I sure couldn't find it.
I'd be very tempted to try little dabs of paint into or rather onto the still-wet water. I think I might have to give that a try, :mrgreen: although I don't have the WS stuff. I do have acrylic varnish though.

Mike

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 Posted: Tue Jun 16th, 2009 07:51 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Wayne, you can do lilly pads with paint and a brush on the last pour while the epoxy is wet.  have a look at http://www.unrealdetails.com  Dave Williams, who makes the Magic Water I used has dozens of examples available.  I emailled him and he answered me personally on my questions.  Max



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