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Last Four Buildings On The Proctor Farm - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:21 am
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Wayne Williams
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Max, here are some pictures of the weathering brush. It has a dial at the top so you can dial out the bristles from nothing to about 3/4 of an inch long. The more exposed the bristles the softer the feel and less material is removed, the shorter you set them the faster it removes the paint.

I am just beginning to use it, so I have had to touch up some areas where I have rubbed too hard or too long and it took all of the paint off, not just the red color. (I had painted the first two coats in an old grey color to simulate old looking wood)

So far I really like it. It beats trying to do it with hand held dremel tool bits.

Wayne


First pic is how I have used it so far, second pic shows the bristles fully extended. Replacement brushes are also available.




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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:23 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Wayne.  I probably have something similar, but you can't be complacent.

Re the weathering, I'm sure the gurus (Mikec and rjr just to name a couple), will suggest a black wash with diluted india ink.  I have had some success with spraying lacquer hairspray on and then dusting with ground up pastel which I can buy in bulk.

Here are a couple I have done . . .









As you can see, the pastels go on easily and stick to any surface that the lacquer sticks to.  Hope this helps.  Max



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:26 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Wayne.  The bristles look like they are brass?  There is a similar thing available with fibreglass bristles, but there are safety issues with it.  I'm sure Sol wil have twenty links to where we can get it by the time I finish this.  Cheers.



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:33 am
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Wayne Williams
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Max, they are steel bristles, not brass. I doubt if brass would work as well, probably too soft.
This weathering brush is in all of the supply catalogues that I get in the mail. I would think it's pretty popular everywhere.

You know Max, I completely forgot about doing a black wash, so thanks for reminding me. I will put it on the schedule.


Wayne



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:40 am
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Sol
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Sorry a bit late Max but here is one site
http://www.micromark.com/SCRATCH-BRUSH,8058.html



Part 82466A  & refills 82467

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:45 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Sol.  I knew I could rely on you.  Do you want me to order one for you?



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 02:42 am
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Sol
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If you are going to get one, yes please plus spare set of refills.

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 10:47 am
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Gwent Rail
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For our UK members, these brushes are available from Squires Tools, stock No AB0080 @ £3.99, they come with a glass refill as standard, but steel and brass refills are also available for £0.55 each. I've used one to clean metal prior to soldering, for some time and they are excellent.

Never thought of using them for weathering though, nice one Wayne. :thumbs:thumbs

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 12:41 pm
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owen69
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Wayne you should be well pleased they look fine, i will be a little cheeky
and say i hope you are going to weather the roller door to match the rest ?

:hmm:doublethumb:lol::lol::lol::cool:

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 05:33 pm
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Wayne Williams
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That subject (painting the roller door) is being discussed in great detail. Once a decision has been made I will let you know.
For the time being, I will say this, I don't like it white, looks out of place.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 07:38 pm
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sparky
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the glass ones are a pain .they do the job ok but if anyone on here is not used to them be warned the bits once in your fingers are the very devil to remove and can be a pain ,i have had a fibre glass splinter in my finger for about 3 months . could not see it to remove it ., the skin has just grown over it and now i have a new lump.:twisted:

 Best to have the hoover nearby and use the hose to clean the bench!



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 09:32 pm
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owen69
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Reg totally agree ,they should put a hazard warning on them
from a fellow sufferer.
:roll::roll::thumbs:cool:

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 10:31 pm
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MikeC
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Wayne they look excellent :thumbs
The lifting timbers on the end of the granary could be suggested with a few painted shadows if you wanted, but it looks great as it is.
At normal size and viewing distance I suspect the gap in the roller door is hardly noticeable and will be even less so when it's painted. Whatever you choose will be darker than the bare plastic so the gap will be that much harder again to see.
I hope you haven't run out of buildings to make because these are always very enjoyable and informative threads.
Mike

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 11:08 pm
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Wayne Williams
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sparky wrote:
the glass ones are a pain .they do the job ok but if anyone on here is not used to them be warned the bits once in your fingers are the very devil to remove and can be a pain ,i have had a fibre glass splinter in my finger for about 3 months . could not see it to remove it

An old trick from someone who has had fiberglass splinters many times. Take a strip of masking tape and wrap it around your finger, leave on for at least over night, longer if possible, then un-peel it. Don't slide it off, but un-wrap it opposite the way it went on. The adhesive (hopefully) will draw the splinter up and grab ahold of it. When you un-wrap it, it just pulls the splinter out. It's worked for me!

Wayne



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 11:13 pm
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Wayne Williams
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MikeC wrote:
Wayne they look excellent :thumbs
The lifting timbers on the end of the granary could be suggested with a few painted shadows if you wanted, but it looks great as it is.

I hope you haven't run out of buildings to make because these are always very enjoyable and informative threads.
Mike


Shadows huh? Not sure I know how to paint them Mike. Wouldn't you have to know which way the sun was shining from? I guess you would have to make that decision early on in a layout.

Don't fear about me running out of buildings Mike, I have a whole town to model yet. Something like 16 buildings plus in the town, and probably twice that amount on the rest of the layout.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 01:31 am
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MikeC
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Yes Wayne you would want to know the light direction, which is one reason why I personally wouldn't add them. Shadows underneath something are ok - you can get away with them, but something side-lit is another matter.
Glad you have lots more to build :lol:

Mike

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 Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 06:48 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Now it's time to start the Garage, the first two photos are of the prototype.




And here is the beginning of the garage model. I intend to make a roll up door for this also, but it will not actually roll. I will probably show it in the mostly open position, as that is how I remember it the most. That will mean I will have to do some interior work on this too, since the opening is so large. Should be interesting how this develops.



I have just finished doing a dark wash over the house, tool shed, grainery, and the sugar shak. They definitely look better now. Not so pristine anymore.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 07:52 pm
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Alan
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Wayne Williams wrote: Don't fear about me running out of buildings Mike, I have a whole town to model yet. Something like 16 buildings plus in the town, and probably twice that amount on the rest of the layout.

Wayne


:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb

Great news Wayne

This means by the time I get to making some buildings for the HO layout, you will still be able to teach me.

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 Posted: Tue May 19th, 2009 01:37 am
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Wayne Williams
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Alan, I have so many things I want to build, I can't see the light at the end of the tunnel! Don't worry, when you get ready, just ask, I'll be more than happy to share in all the mistakes I've made so you won't have to make them.

Here is some more progress on the Garage.





Boy am I on a roll! Going to have to stop and play golf tomorrow though.

Wayne



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 Posted: Tue May 19th, 2009 03:50 am
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Marty
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Interesting tip about removing fibreglass splinters with tape.
I'm of the school that gets the vaccum cleaner out at the same time I get the fibreglass pencil out, preferably with the motor running.
Prevention is better than a cure!!!!!

Greeaat buildings!!



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