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Going loco... - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 09:02 pm
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darrenscots
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I took a hammer to my motor this evening!....i found in the kit that I had to replace the worm gear with the one in the kit (but how?)

Not having a mini gear puller, I used a little pry bar atop a vice and sliped the drive into the V slot in the pry bar and then used a nail punch to lightly punch the motor shaft through. Success! Thankfully the worm on the kit is held on via a small key screw.



 

 

 

 



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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 09:51 pm
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darrenscots
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I think that i may be loco after this build! After installed the worm gear I thought I would be on my way in installing the drive but check the clearance (NONE) below - lots of filing to do on the chassis before any wheels will turn in anger (in fact i double and triple checked as to whether I had installed it the wrong end)!!




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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 10:33 pm
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darrenscots
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She is alive!! After much filing and puncturing my thumb with a file (there really is blood sweat and tears going into this one!) I tested the motor and it runs fine without packing.

If you look carefully you will see one insulated and one non-insulated wheel on the same side (wheels are temporarily fitted for checking running..(power being applied directly to the motor))



 



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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 10:50 pm
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henryparrot
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Thats a great start Darren at least you know you will have a running loco now.

the trouble with filing that white metal it clogs up your files very quickly because it is so soft knacker goood files in no time

Cheers Brian

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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 11:01 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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That's lovely work, Darren.  The brushes are well designed, too.  You can solder the wires straight on to them if you want to run DCC later.



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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 10:11 am
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darrenscots
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Last night was spent fettling the coupling rods and this morning I soldered the coupling rods on using paper washers (scrap paper) to ensure that solder did not lock the joint up. The excess length was cut back using Xuron cutters and filed back - some more filing left with a finer file. Unit was test run again and all is well so far.

 






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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 11:47 am
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Robert
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Those wheels look really good Darren. They make such a difference to any model.



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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 03:28 pm
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You must be very proud of it, Darren.  First class modelling.



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 Posted: Sat May 2nd, 2009 07:21 pm
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Petermac
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Just reading this thread makes me sweat Darren - you're a far braver man than I am !!

Looks like it's going to be a fantastic loco and if you can realise the £160 from Vectis ............................:roll::roll::roll::roll:



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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2009 12:07 am
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henryparrot
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Peter

well made kit built locos can realise many hundreds of pounds

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2009 01:21 pm
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darrenscots
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henryparrot wrote: Peter

well made kit built locos can realise many hundreds of pounds

cheers Brian


Brian, the rate that I am going at this could be a badly built kit that costs me many hundreds of pounds!!

Well last night saw lots of fiddlng wth the wiper contacts, refit, fit and refit, motor slip, wheels out alignment and then broke the bronze brush on the motor - finally this saw me resetting the wheels again - now I have a nice free wheeling chassis again - now to repairing the brush and resetting the wiper contacts and start testing again - this bit is frustrating but necessary as going forward without resolving this would be pointless.

 



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 Posted: Sun May 3rd, 2009 11:50 pm
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darrenscots
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After much fettling the unit is running as smooth as silk, I have attached a quick vid (no actual sound as too much surround noise going on!) I am now happy to continue the build now that I am confident that I wont need to rebuild the chassis/pickups.

The video shows it at a scale 300mph or so but I did slow it down at the latter part so that I could catch it on the video!


Items learned today -

  1. do lightly oil the unit early on
  2. do refer to recommended reading material again and again.
  3. Tiny adjustments mean the difference between smooth and jerky running (i ended up putting a tiny piece of packing at the motor base which made a significant difference) 
  4.  I also recommend no prebending of the wipers before soldering and leaving PLENTY overage to allow for adjustment



     



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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 12:13 am
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Sol
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The big test is at crawling speed Darren, with a load behind it. But keep at it, I have a K's 2-6-2 Prairie 44XX class to build up so your learning is also my teaching.

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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 05:51 am
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Petermac
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It's certainly flying on that video Darren.  As Sol said, the test will be at a crawl with a load behind but, considering it didn't exist at all when you got it, that's pretty good progress. :thumbs

BTW - I did think the bodywork was a bit plain !! :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Slightly off topic - the track layout was interesting.   Is it split level ?  Couldn't quite work it out from the vid.



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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 07:28 am
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Christrerise
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 It threw me at first Peter, but it is actually a Hornby TrakMat with the layout pre-printed on.  It looks surprisingly good until someone puts the track where it shouldn't be and then it looks weird!

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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 08:44 am
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darrenscots
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Christrerise wrote:  It threw me at first Peter, but it is actually a Hornby TrakMat with the layout pre-printed on.  It looks surprisingly good until someone puts the track where it shouldn't be and then it looks weird!

Exactly right Chris as I quickly threw the trackmat on the floor to avoid picking up fluff from the carpet!

Peter, Ron - good point re the load - it seems to be equally smooth at slow speeds so the next test later down the line should certainly confirm whether the drive is meshed up and doesnt slip!! (why do I get the feeling that I have more fettling in front of me!)



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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 09:04 am
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owen69
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don`t worry about it Darren,you can do it, neat build so far.

:doublethumb:lol::lol::lol::cool:

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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 09:32 am
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Marty
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First engine build I've ever seen from scratch. John B, GJG, has shown us some amazing bodywork in N scale but I don't recall seeing what was under the hood.
Following with interest Darren.
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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 10:45 am
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Alan
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Great progress Darren

I with the rest, watching with interest, and learning as you go.:thumbs

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 Posted: Mon May 4th, 2009 11:07 am
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Like Marty says,this IS the really clever part of building a kit loco,where you really DO build it.Its not just a case of sticking a body over an existing chassis!
  I'm mesmorised by all this,and taking notes too!Although in n gauge,we're limited by the availability of suitable motors to fit certain locos(particularly the smaller tank engines and ones with daylight under the boiler),hopefully with the advent of these smaller gauges we might see some suitable motors for scratchbuilding become generally available.Having said all that,this particular part of modelling is,like soldering and electrickery,a bit of a dark art to me!
  Lucky for me there's plenty of wizards like yourself on the forum to learn from!!!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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