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Alan
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To start this new thread, I am going to be weathering a Class 37.

I have read a lot of other people's way of weathering, and everything that I do is only by way of reading and then trying something out as well.



First I aways paint in the heavy rust area's using Railmatch ( 405 Dark rust ) not thinned, this looks a little heavy to start with but as the whole body will be airbrushed with a dirty coat of black and grim mixed, which will give the whole loco a faded look and the heavy rust will be toned down, the images below show a small amount of the rust onto one part of the body.







MaxSouthOz
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That's very convincing, Alan.  Do you decide where to put the marks by looking a photographs, or is it an instinctive thing?

phill
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I was thinking what a lovely loco you have, even thou its a blue diesel :mutley. then i went further down and saw what you had done thus far :shock:. Blimey i be too scared to touch it.

Anyhow how do you work out where and how much rust to put on. You say you are going to use a airbrush for the rest, i take it then that a airbrush would give you more of a better finish than hand painted?. If you did it by hand how much harder is it?

Phill

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As you say really, I look at photo's to see where most of the rust etc is, and also add some of my own.

Phill

Don't be scared, it's only a Blue Diesel :lol:

I have always used a brush for the finer detailing :roll:, and then cover it all afterwards with a Airbrush, which does give a finer coating, and it does dry quicker, but it can all be done using a brush, try it on a old wagon first, to learn on, wagons can be easy to weather, because if you do mess it up, you can just cover the problem up with more dirt.

Below are all the materials that I will use on this loco, before I use the Airbrush.


Petermac
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This is going to be like reading a good novel for me Alan :thumbs:thumbs

"Tensocrom" ?  Never heard of that - it looks Italian :roll::roll:  Is it one of those "Wargaming" organisations ?

Also, interested in seeing where you use the pastels and / of Tamiya Weatherline sticks. :roll::roll:

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The Tensocrom paint is from an article in one of the model mags, I will try and dig it out and also find the suppler, it is really different from any other paint that I have ever used, but it's the best for showing fuel, diesel that I have ever seen

As for the Tamiya sticks look at the wagon thread as I have used them on the wagon

 

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:cheers:cheers:cheers

Is the Tensocrom enamel or acrylic ?

Alan
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Acrylic :thumbs

Gwent Rail
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Petermac wrote: :cheers:cheers:cheers

Is the Tensocrom enamel or acrylic ?

I think the writing on the top of the bottle "Colori Acrilici" is a clue, Peter. :lol::lol::thumbs:thumbs

Alan
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I didn't want to point that out Jeff :thumbs

Petermac
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Gwent Rail wrote: Petermac wrote: :cheers:cheers:cheers

Is the Tensocrom enamel or acrylic ?

I think the writing on the top of the bottle "Colori Acrilici" is a clue, Peter. :lol::lol::thumbs:thumbs

:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops:  Don't understand Italian !!!

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Alan,
      Even those first two weathered shots make an amazing difference.The jump from plastic bodied pristine RTR into something that now LOOKS like it's really metal!
       Watching like a hawk,mate!!!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

Alan
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Thanks John

I will finish the first coat of rust tomorrow evening, then it's on to the highlighting !!

Not Hair Peter :roll:

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Alan wrote: Thanks John

I will finish the first coat of rust tomorrow evening, then it's on to the highlighting !!

Not Hair Peter :roll:

:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:  Don't know much about hair Alan - it's years since I grew through mine :roll::roll::roll:

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great start alan

phil

the airbrush is a great tool for all types of painting. i am a non artistic type but i find the airbrush easier to use. the best thing about the airbrush is the fine mist it discharges. you go over the model once and a very finejust visible layer is added, all you do is repeat this until the effect you want is created. go onto youtube and you can find some great work done with the airbrush.

 

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Using brushes first then switching to an air brush? I don't believe I have seen it done that way before. So I will be watching you closely Alan.

I don't have an air brush. I did watch a video once on how to use and clean one. Seemed like a lot of work, plus a lot of fumes. Do you spray and clean up in the house?

Wayne

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Wayne

The reason that I am doing it brush first is really to show that it can be done without the use of a Airbrush, so that anybody can weather their stock if they wish.

The reason why I paint first, is because I like to make the rust look as if it is under the daily dirt, so by painting the heavy rust onto the body first, this will be dulled down after the body and underframe get a light coating of a dirt colour which I will explain when I get to that stage.


All Airbrushing is done in the shed into a cardboard box, but with the door open, I have asked the question on here about spray booths, and will one day, when I have nothing else to do, build one :hmm

Last edited on Thu Apr 30th, 2009 07:23 pm by

Alan
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Work on the weathering of the class 37, slowed down last week, due to couple of reasons, one work, and the other was the fact that I was going to buy to some extra detailing at the Bristol show, so after yesterday, I have now brought some air horns,vac & steam pipes, and also some air brale pipes as well, I decided that all the grills are good enough and I don't want to change the windows, the grills will be rather dirty after the weathering so do not need to be changed, so I can carry on ;-)

Alan
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Update on the weathering of the Class 37

Tonight I have given the complete body a wash of Tamiya Flat Black 20% and 80% acrylic thinner, this has been applied with a brush, the roof has been given a stronger wash around 50/50, this has been done to dull down the roof more than the body, I painted this always on the roof from the front towards the back. and the same from the other end, for the sides I always painted up and down, with the stronger colour at the bottom, reason for this is that the rain will wash the dirt down.

After this dryied I then started work on the exhaust on the roof, by adding coats of Tensocrom Smoke, building up the layers, the body is now ready for a more detailed approach of high lighting different area's, using different colours and texture's, Pastels are next , and then a process of rubbing/buffing back some of the panels.

The roof will need a lot more work, pastels first to add some grim, and then some heavier wash's of a light brown colour, which will also be washed over the bogies and lower underframe.









Christrerise
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Now that is one dirty beast - love it :Happy

MikeC
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Like it too :thumbs Looks like it has pureed its share of grasshoppers and moths in its time :lol:

Mike

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MikeC wrote: Like it too :thumbs Looks like it has pureed its share of grasshoppers and moths in its time :lol:

Mike

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Looks just like the real thing Alan :thumbs - particularly that mucky front end.  Also, the rust around th doors etc. looks extremely effective.

Last edited on Thu May 14th, 2009 08:42 am by Petermac

Alan
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Small amount of work carried out tonight, adding some new vacuum pipes and also the new air horns, Don't know if these are needed but They have been done, and after they have been painted I really don't think you will see the difference


phill
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Blimey what a difference it makes with the grime etc, enjoying this Alan, thanks.

Phill

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Thanks Phill

Nearly finished this loco, just a few small things to do, and then the last coat of grim.

Next on the workbench......................Chris's Tiger wagon's ;-)

Petermac
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Looking forward to seeing the finished article Alan.  It's looking great. :thumbs

Last edited on Sat May 16th, 2009 11:36 am by Petermac

Alan
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A photo to show how the loco is looking at the moment, it is just waiting for the last few little jobs, and then the dirty coat from the air brush, I know that I said that this would be painted only, but I have decided to finish it like the rest of our weathered stock.


owen69
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hell mate thats not weathered that is ready for the scrap yard

:pedal:pedal:roll::cool:

phill
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Looks like some passengers have lost a lot of blood on that train mate, :mutley

Phill

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Regional Railways should be ashamed.  Mind you, some of our AN locos look as bad - or worse.  Nice job.  Very convincing.

Alan
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Thanks Max

After watching the video's that John and Chris have  posted,  I have just a little bit more work to do before the final dirty coat !!

Alan
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Update on the Weathering of the Class 37 No 37429

I have finished the last job, which was a spraying of the dirty grim colour that I put on a the last top coat, the only job that needs doing is a little clean of the windows !!
Photo's show on workbench and also on the layout, with this also finished, it clears the way to start Chris's wagons !!

All comments are always enjoyed, and if you think I have missed something or something can be added to improve the loco, please fire away









This last image showing both the wagon and the 37 together on the layout, hopefully looking the part !

Last edited on Thu May 21st, 2009 12:58 pm by

MikeC
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I like it a lot. The wiped window made me smile :cool:
Can you get some similar clear areas for the wipers? Or are there no wipers?

Mike

Last edited on Thu May 21st, 2009 01:04 pm by

owen69
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beat me to it Mike..those were my thoughts too,i thought the wiped window was magic!

:thumbs:lol::lol::lol::lol::cool:

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I must have put this in the wrong thread, Alan.  I was suggesting you stick a wiper wipe shap cut out of masking tape, on the window glass before you paint it . . .

Alan
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Don't worry Max,

I still think it is a good idea :thumbs

 

Calling Chris......................................Calling Chris

As someone who knows alot about 37's, have I missed anything, or can I add to make it better ?

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:doublethumbgreat job alan, just the way i like them. the only thing i would say is clean windows at the front to show wipers being used. 

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Yeah - paint it the correct shade of blue all over and start again! :twisted:

Seriously, it looks nice to me, very nice.

Hhmmmmm niiiiiice.;-)

 

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Simply Perfect!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

87 101
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Great job Alan just need to fit the body on properly! The added details on the front look realy convincing. Is the loco a hornby railroad or vi trains?

Alan
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87 101 wrote:
Great job Alan just need to fit the body on properly!


:exclam:exclam:exclam:exclam

Dave never had the body off, are you saying that it needs to sit lower, and the model is a Bachmann.

Thanks guys, I am really quite happy, just a bit mad that I didn't keep the screen clean where the vipers go !! still next time, Chris, it might be a blue one or even a grey one !

87 101
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Yes yours looks like the body is not on properly as the chassies is showing above the fuel tanks and bogies. Here's a link to bachmans website... http://www.bachmann.co.uk/image_box.php?image=images1/branchline/32-376DS.jpg&cat_no=32-376DS&info=0&width=650&height=232

In the pics of yours there are some 'pips' sticking out of the chassies molding just above the bogies. The pic on their website shows these as located in the cutout on the lower bodyside. Hope this helps. ;-)

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Thanks Dave

I will lower the body when I get home :thumbs

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Well spotted, Dave.  It needs to go down about 3mm.

Alan
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Okay guys something different

http://cgi.ebay.com/campbell-scale-models-wayside-freight-station-craft-kit_W0QQitemZ130365193058QQcmdZViewItemQQssPageNameZRSS:B:SRCH:US:101

I purchased a couple of these wooden kits s/hand the other day, they are the next step in adding buildings to our  American layout, lots of HO layouts seem to have quality wooden kits on them, and they always look good, a high level of detail, and they always look the part, which I suppose they will do if they are meant to be a wooden building.

These will be my next project at home, but before I start a couple of questions, has anybody made any wooden kits before, and if so do you have any tips, and next what is the best glue to use ?

Reading the instructions :roll: they suggest to stain all the wood first, do you agree, when I start I will photograph each stage.

 

Petermac
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Whilst I've neither heard of nor made one of those Campbell kits Alan, staining the timber first would make sense.  If you didn't, any glue residues on the surface would effect the "take" of post assembly staining.

Incidentally, I've just had another look at the weathered Class 37 a couple of posts earlier - I'd forgotten how great she looks. :cheers:cheers:cheers

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Petermac wrote: Whilst I've neither heard of nor made one of those Campbell kits Alan, ................

 

Peter,  Campbells kits to my knowledge is almost as old as I am,              well they started in 1960 - so not quite as old as me!

 I suppose that is one advantage of living Down Under - for years we have been getting not only UK model mags but a few from Europe & lots from USA so many modellers  in my part of the world are aware of many products from all over the world.

( I will rephrase that - while a lot of modellers living Down Under are aware of many fine products from all over, I do know some who refuse to look at USA /Aust models, only UK outline - Kadee & in some cases DCC, are rude words & according to them- people who use them should be shunned - just ask Max) )

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Alan I think an evo-stiok type glue i used to know the names but so many have gone or changed name,Wilkinson`s sell a good
range,in small sizes,

:hmm:lol::lol::cool:

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It's hard to have a battle of wits with an unarmed man.  ;-)

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MaxSouthOz wrote: It's hard to have a battle of wits with an unarmed man.  ;-)

:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley


Now I really do like that one !!!!!

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Thanks for the help with the glue

But what would you use as a stain ? would normal wood stain work ?

Petermac
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I've heard that normal diluted wood stain works well Alan.

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I saw a wooden building at a show once and that was stained, asked how he did it and he said T bags. Just drain them into a bowl and apply to the wood, no idea if this will be any good for you.

Phill

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Hi Alan

Going back to your 37 for a moment - the body is not only not on properly but also the wrong way round. This is the first Bachmann release isnt it? You have done a good job with it but the list of errors is long. If you do any more look for the second or newest releases.

There is an article on improving the second generation 37 on my website, see http://jsmithwright.demonweb.co.uk/other/articles/articles.html

HTH

Jim

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"But what would you use as a stain ? would normal wood stain work ?"

Boot polish would work too.

Mike

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Thanks again Guys

I guess really it's all down to the finished look, which needs to be faded wood, bit more research needed, as it all needs staining first, but I might as well stain all three kits at the same time, as they would have been built at the same time.

Jim

That's an interesting comment, as I brought the loco with a decoder fitted, it must have been the person before me, but I will sort it out, what other mistakes have I made, or have I just opened up the flood gates !

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Hi Alan

Its not mistakes you have made but errors int he original model that meant many people (myself included) refused to buy them and Bachmann doing an almost total retool for the second release. They went further with the third batch meaning there are no common parts between the first release and the current one.

The main problem is that the roof is the wrong shape. This means there is a 'porch' over the cabside doors that just isn't there on the real loco. The fan in the roof is far too crude and the doors on the bonnet are miles too small. The bogie sideframes are in the wrong place meaning the axle boxes dont line up with the axles and the bogies themselves are too wide. This problem existed on the second batch too and its an easy fix (as outlined in my article).

Cheers

Jim

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There appears to be no access to your article on detailing the Bachmann Class 37 from that link Jim.  The article is there with the PDF file shown but it's not "live" on my computer. :roll::roll:

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Petermac wrote: There appears to be no access to your article on detailing the Bachmann Class 37 from that link Jim.  The article is there with the PDF file shown but it's not "live" on my computer. :roll::roll:

Works fine for me?? It is open now, and I can save it locally.

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What are you doing Geoff ?  It won't open for me - Issue 41 of the DEMU site - or am I way off beam !!! :oops::oops::???::???::???:

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Works for me Peter - did you actually click on the Icon?

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Yes Sol - I clicked on the icon.  None of the pdf icons under the DEMU heading are "live" on my computer. :???::???:  I just get the normal cursor arrow when I go to them.  There's another pdf icon on the next heading down (Model Railway Journal) but that's live.

If I click on the DEMU site "here" link, I go to one of those strange pages offering all sorts of web searches with nothing to do with where you thought you were going.

Very strange indeed !!! :???::???::???::???::???:

Sol
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One of the mysteries then concerning electrons & computers!
Instead of opening it "live", can you right click & save it?

Petermac
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I can't even "pick up" the icon Sol.  It's just the cursor moving over it - no reaction whatsoever !!!!

jim s-w
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Hi Peter

I'll have a look next time I am home. What browser are you using?

For now - right click this and save as http://jsmithwright.demonweb.co.uk/other/articles/Resources/update%2041%20370.pdf

HTH

Jim

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Petermac wrote: Yes Sol - I clicked on the icon.  None of the pdf icons under the DEMU heading are "live" on my computer. :???::???:  I just get the normal cursor arrow when I go to them.  There's another pdf icon on the next heading down (Model Railway Journal) but that's live.

If I click on the DEMU site "here" link, I go to one of those strange pages offering all sorts of web searches with nothing to do with where you thought you were going.

Very strange indeed !!! :???::???::???::???::???:


There must be an incompatibility with the browser you are using, Peter and the "mouseover" function at the particular positions on the page.

As for the DEMU link, it is wrong:cry:  The link should be demu.org.uk and not demu.co.uk as written behind the "here" link, so that is not your computer!!

Sol
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Just tried it in Firefox as IE8 is OK. I have the same problem in Firefox as Petermac - the MRJ link is OK but the others - no go.

jim s-w
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Thanks Geoff

When did DEMU change their address? I'll change it next time. I dont have anything to do with DEMU anymore so perhaps they mentioned it on their forum or in Update?

Cheers

Jim

Petermac
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As Sol suggests Jim - I use Firefox.

I'll try the above and save it.

Cheers.:cheers:cheers

Petermac
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That opened up fine Jim. :cheers:cheers

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Work has started on the s/hand Timberline wooden kit of a square water tank, ( which isn't square !!) after reading the intructions, and then reading them again and again, I managed to work out how to start, first off was to stain all the panels, very lightly, to avoid warping, which they still did, then the job of strengthening all the sides, I had to clamp them all and wait 24 hours for the glue to dry.




After the glue had dried it was a case of building the shed !! with square corners !!, for which I used rubber bands, next job was the Frost box, which is the central support, this had to be faced on all sides with a hand made door at the bottom on one side, after that I have started on the main support legs




You can just make out some of the pencil markings for the next supports to be added, everything has to be cut, from lenths of strip wood supplied, after the supports have been added, it's making two ladders !!

Any comments welcome

Petermac
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Looks like it's not just a case of running some Mek-Pak down the joint Alan !! :roll::roll:

She looks good (is a water tank a "she" ? :hmm)

ddolfelin
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They might just as well sent you a tree and an axe, Alan.

Geoff R
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It is the first scratch build kit that I have heard of ;-)

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Interesting thing. Guessing it's American but it's a new one on me.

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MikeC wrote: Interesting thing. Guessing it's American but it's a new one on me.

Yes USA but I think it is as old as the hills

http://medallionminiatures.com/moreinfo.cfm/160

http://www.dealtime.com/xPO-Craftsman-Timberline-Models-Ho-U-a-hardware-Store-Wood-Kit

 

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great looking buildings but pricey. I'm in the wrong business.

Sol
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Just check this ouit then Mike
http://fsmkits.homestead.com/files/loggingRepairshed_160.jpg
U$170

Alan
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Ron, Mike

It is a old USA wooden kit, I brought three at the time, all for under £10.00, and they will all fit into one area on the layout, the other two being a Sand box and a freight yard building, they are hard work, but will give the effect that I am looking at for the layout, that being different than all the brick buildings around them.

DD,

An axe might have been useful in the early days...........:hmmstill might use it thinking about it,

Geoff and Peter

It's not really a kit at all, except for the side panels, the rest has to be cut to size, and Peter don't I wish the wood glue could dry as quick as Met-pak :roll:

More work carried out last night on the main supports and the ladder, all of which has to be cut to size, although the plans do show all the sizes that each piece has to be cut too, but these are not always right !! but this isn't really a problem, as all wooden structures bend over the years, so if it's not correct, it will all add the weathering and aging side of the model. Center bracing is next but the kit doesn't have enough of the correct wood, so I am having to wait until the end to see what I have left over !

It's the weathering of the wood that interest's me next, you can see the area's that I have already stained, and now that it is far more stable, I will be able to add more layers of stain, but it's how to weather the wood after, one thought is taking some sandpaper to it, but I would like a effect of peeling off in the sun over the years !



Again Guys any comments good or bad.

MikeC
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 so I guess you give it a very light coat of paint and then take the sandpaper to it :hmm
 It might be possible to do it in two coats of paint e.g. handrails on diesel locos - painted white or yellow, initially, then grey paint or graphite pencil over the top which looks like bare metal even though it's applied afterwards.
In other words two different colours to simulate either bare timber and paint, or old paint and older paint.

ddolfelin
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Or microwave it.

I'm confident you will bring it to life whatever process you use, Alan.

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Last night I finished off the main supports and frost box door, and then added the main building onto the support






Work on the door and the roof tonight, then it's all but finished !!

 

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Alan,you wanted to know how to weather your wood ?
try here
Wood - Adding Texture To It - Good Article - Link.
forum index!!!
:doublethumb:lol::cool:

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Thanks Owen

That's a really useful site, I was going to attack the wood to give it that old look, but it's useful to see it done first.

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That link is straight out of the Index Alan, don't forget it's there.

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I never ever remember to check the Index Bob !!

Think we should try and find a better way of advertising it to all the members as it can't be only me that forgets

Or maybe I should be looking at that hat again :roll:

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This hat Alan:question



Petermac
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I think it's currently vacant :roll::roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:

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I don't think that's fair, all I did was own up to forgetting to look in the index, it's not like ..................................... nope better not tell you that one, or the time that I ..........................................................nope not that either, maybe the next mistake I make I will wear the hat again.

:hmm.................................Why is it only Peter and I that ever wear the hat.........................................:roll::roll::roll:

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Alan wrote: I don't think that's fair, all I did was own up to forgetting to look in the index, it's not like ..................................... nope better not tell you that one, or the time that I ..........................................................nope not that either, maybe the next mistake I make I will wear the hat again.

:hmm.................................Why is it only Peter and I that ever wear the hat.........................................:roll::roll::roll:


Thats simple, Peter is confused 24/7 asnd your just getting older quiker and forgetfull :mutley

Phill

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That comes up well in the closeup. I like all the diagonal bracing.

Marty
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I reckon Phil should get the hat for not using his spell checker again :mutley

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Marty wrote: I reckon Phil should get the hat for not using his spell checker again :mutley


Listen i forgot ok but i got a excuse :thumbs

Phill

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MikeC wrote: That comes up well in the closeup. I like all the diagonal bracing.

Thanks Mike

Do you think I should add all the bolts that hold it all together , and if so what could I use, small heads from pins ?

As that would really help with the overall look of the base.

Petermac
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I think the bolts would make a huge difference Alan.  Could you maybe use tiny bits of plasticard ?  I certainly couldn't but your skills are way ahead of mine and using pin heads wouldn't give the right profile for a bolt.

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Peter, here is a link to round head bolts
http://www.masterbolt.com/round_head_bolts.html
so pins would work.

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You could use bolts, Alan! I have just checked my stock of 16BA ones which I use in signal construction. They are cheesehead and are a scale 4ins in dia on the head. Sounds a lot, but they are smaller than a pin head, and would really look the part. You can get them from Squires if you don't have a local source.

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Well the wooden water tank is finally finished, this has been a very labour intensive job, as most of the wood provided in the kit was warped and nearly each piece had to be stuck on and let dry before the next piece and so on, but it hasn't turned out that bad in the end, and after it has been completely weathered with pastels and installed on the layout, I'm sure it will be okay.




Every piece had to be cut and fitted, any questions please fire away, next job to build more for this little area that I brought last week at Bristol.

Marty
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A study in patience Alan, seems to have worked out nicely to me.

Petermac
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That's a great result Alan. :thumbs

I can guess it was a B to build but well worth all the effort.

What are the water pipe and roofing felt made out of ?  The felt in particular looks like a very good representation of mineral felt.

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Would track pins do as bolt heads?  Perhaps solder/epoxy one into a 'handle', or a cut-off one in a pin-vice, use that to make holes in the same way as you'd use a bradawl, then push a snipped-off pin [head end] into the hole?  You could even flatten the very tiniest amount of tip to make a micro-flat drill to 'twiddle in' to avoid splitting.  It could avoid getting glue on the surfaces too.  Below is a track pin pretending to be a bolt.........


Nice job so far, too.


Doug



Last edited on Fri May 7th, 2010 07:19 pm by Chubber

MikeC
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Nice build, Alan. It will give plenty of individuality to your layout.

Mike

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Beautiful tank,Alan.

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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Hi Alan, have a look at Grandt Line products they do plastic H0 scale nut-bolt-washer castings and can be sourced in the UK


Or try,http://www.eileensemporium.com/ who sell cosmetic nuts and bolts.

Cheers
Mike

Last edited on Sat May 8th, 2010 03:49 pm by

Alan
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Thanks for the comments Guys and also Mike for the link, as for adding details such as bolts etc, I will wait to see what sort of time I have before the show, for those sort of details, but the layout is coming on at a great speed of knots at the moment, so I guess I will be adding things like that for the show.

Next on the workbench as of this week another wooden building :hmm


                 

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