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Corner spot on my layout - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 03:44 pm
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phill
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I am currently working on a corner of my layout and am in the middle of building something. What it is shall be revealed when i am finished. Ok i shall let you know when i have got some jobs done.

My question i have at present is this. How do you paint onto plastic, do i rub it down first but i am worried about scratches or is there a different way to paint onto plastic?

Thanks.

Phill

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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 04:04 pm
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Petermac
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Phill - you don't say what sort of plastic it is. :roll::roll:

If it's styrene (plasticard), I'd have thought most paints should take OK, with the exception of watercolours (as far as I know).  If it's the flexible "polythene" type of plastic, you'd probably have to prime it first maybe with an "etch" type primer.

Of course, both would need to be thoroughly clean and free from grease etc. (like grease from your hands or fingers) - a good wash in warm water with a drop of washing up liquid should remove any traces followed by a thorough rinse in clean water then leave to dry naturally.

I'm sure others, more experienced that me, could give a better answer. :thumbs



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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 04:46 pm
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Depends on the type of plastic. I usualy spray a coat of grey car undercoat first. ;-)

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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 05:41 pm
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phill
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Ok i bought a fuel refuelling kit today for my ickle corner i am
going to make into my fueling point. Its 2 cylinders with gantry and it looks from what i can gather the pipes go into a plate into the ground of your base, so i am going to have to scratch build a couple of pumps next to the track with a hose come from under the ground into the pumps. It will also have a water tower and coaling stage for the Jinty and any other steam Loco's i may obtain in time.
At present i have built the tanks and gantry, ladder and pipes etc to do. I have just laid some plaster as a base to give a bit of height, so give that a while to set.
This is the item i bought. i paid 9.95p for mine at the engine shed.
http://www.knightwing.co.uk/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?cart_id=1234376573.606&product=OO-HO_Building_Kits&pid=179

Hence the reason why i asked about painting them. Black for the tanks and no idea on the gantry and pipes etc as yet. Maybe pink, now that be different hey :thumbs
Was going to get the one Matt built a while ago but they had non in stock, then i saw this and thought erm :hmm, i could maybe adapt this as described up above. Pics to follow when i can get round to them.
Also bought some of oil drums to scatter in and around the depot once finished.
Sorry about the length of the link :oops: forgot how to do the magic on them oops.
These drums  will be scattered in and around the fuel dump.

Phill




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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 06:54 pm
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Petermac
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That's a great looking fuel store Phill.  The plastic is styrene and you can paint it (once it's clean as above), with any model paint.

To get a really good key and base coat, I'd lightly spray it with grey car body primer then carry on with either enamles (Humbrol & the like) or acrylics.  You're probably more likely to have enamels either in stock or available at any toy/model shop but buy some thinners as well !!  Thin the paint slightly before using it - it's usually far too thick to paint straight from the tin and will a) streak and b) might cover some of the details.

I'll leave the "artists" to say how much thinning but I'd have thought around 25% thinners to 75% paint for brush painting :roll::roll::roll::roll:

Over to you artists !!



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 Posted: Thu Feb 12th, 2009 11:56 am
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Wayne Williams
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Phill, if you want to take the advice that I will give you on painting plasticard, then just remember that I am only beginning in this endeavor too. The following is mostly what I've learned from reading this forum.

I use Acrylics only!

Wash the parts with soap and water, let dry.

The first coat is a white gesso primer, thinned with water with a very small drop of dishwashing liquid mixed in. The less water you use the more texture you get from the gesso. So if you not looking for a slightly rough look, then I'd say a 25% water solution is fine. Let dry, very dry!

The next several coats are about the same mixture of water to paint, only reversed, I have also gone to a 50/50 mixture. Use 75% water to 25% paint, and don't forget the dishwashing liquid. It makes the paint flow onto the model and not separate. You may think that you are not getting enough paint on the model after each coat, but you ARE! As Perry has told everyone on here before, "You can always add more paint, but you cannot remove it", so go slowly.

After you have achieved the base color you want, then you can begin to weather it. That's another whole subject!

Wayne

PS: The plasticard that I use is white in color, and I will be painting it white. When I do that my mixture of water to paint will change quite a bit. I will use less water after the first two layers are on. Just because it's white on white.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 12th, 2009 12:42 pm
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phill
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Thanks guys for the advice, i shall endeavour to put all this into practise.

If you hear swearing or abusive language you know i am having problems :twisted::brickwall.

Anyhow i shall follow Pete's way, if i get stuck get back on here sharpish for more advice, all though that mean i never get started if i did that. :mutley

Phill

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 Posted: Thu Feb 12th, 2009 02:58 pm
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Petermac
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phill wrote: Thanks guys for the advice, i shall endeavour to put all this into practise.

If you hear swearing or abusive language you know i am having problems :twisted::brickwall.

Anyhow i shall follow Pete's way, if i get stuck get back on here sharpish for more advice, all though that mean i never get started if i did that. :mutley

Phill


Phill - follow Wayne's not mine !!!!  He's doing painting right now - I haven't painted from scratch for ages and I never was any good at art.  :roll::roll:      I note his dilution is far more than mine - I said 25% thinners - he uses only 25% paint !!!  I'll bet he's more likely to do a good job than me !!!!   Just have a look at what he's done recently.     Perry's comments also worth taking into account - you can always add paint but you can't remove it.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 12th, 2009 03:02 pm
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phill
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Cheers Peter. I went straight in and whacked the paint straight on, no thinning etc just wham and brushed it straight on, it looks good if i say so myself. Now its a tad too new looking, so now i got to either weather it or just leave it for now.

The base is done and painted black, can not put gantry on it or the pipes, i need to get hold of silver paint. All though i am thinking of yellow for the gantry, bit different but hey i have seen some that colour.

Phill

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 01:12 am
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MikeC
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That's a great looking kit, Phill.
I often struggle to get paint to stick to plastic because I'm too lazy to prepare it first by washing it. Weathering with acrylics can be a bit frustrating if you overdo it.
But now that you have some paint on there you'll find artists pastels [chalks] will cling very well if you want to weather it that way. I bought my favourite colours as individual sticks from the art shop. If you buy a set, you will never use 90% of them. I have several drab muddy browns, reddish brown like red oxide, about three different greys, a mild yellow and a drab green. I have a couple of sets too but like I said there are some pretty wild colours in them. I have used mauve in small doses though. It goes well on asphalt roads.
I use a sharp blade to scrape a pile of dust and apply it with small bits of foam rubber, brushes and my fingers.

Mike

P.S. pastels are fine over enamel or acrylic

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 04:01 am
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phill
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Thanks i give it a go.

Phill

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 08:41 am
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Petermac
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That's very useful information Mike.   After you've applied the pastels (chalk pastels as opposed to oils I presume), do you seal them in any way ?  I've both heard and read that spraying with matt varnish can spoil the effect or even blow the pastels away !!



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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 12:25 pm
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Petermac Chalks, yes. I like to spray them with artists fixative which is precisely the job it was made for. I don't remember when I made the station building on Swanhurst but I do know it was sprayed with fixative and it's still in good condition. It hasn't been handled very much. The chalks adhere better to the paint, rather than bare plastic and don't get blown away quite as much, although yes, I agree it's still easy to blow it away. I hold the can as far away as possible.

Mike

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 12:57 pm
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i use artists pastels, i give it a quick spray first with matt varnish then again after. look at getting a tin of weathered black (railmatch) about £2.25. i use a lot of this and is ideal for the gantry.

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 04:19 pm
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henryparrot
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Phill

the Knightwing kits are very good value for money

I actually have one of those tanks you have on my diorama project that has been weathered if you want to see what i did .

It is exactly the same tank you have except you have 2 plus a gantry.

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 07:49 pm
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Petermac
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Matt wrote: i use artists pastels, i give it a quick spray first with matt varnish then again after. look at getting a tin of weathered black (railmatch) about £2.25. i use a lot of this and is ideal for the gantry.
Matt - do you sprinkle the pastel on after the first spray coat is dry ?  I understood you were supposed to work the pastels in with brushes or fingers - this can only be done on dry coats surely  - or am I mis-reading / misunderstanding something ?  (You might say "am I confused" !! :roll::roll::roll::roll:)



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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 10:47 pm
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Gwent Rail
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Petermac, if Matt is using his airbrush (or if he's using a spray can properly) there's no question of using the pastels on a wet surface. Properly applied spray painting (can or brush) should be so sparsely and finely done that the spray is almost dry immediately it hits the surface of the item. It's a matter of seconds before there's a dry surface to work on.

As with undercoat spraying, don't be fooled into thinking that the surface has got to look completely covered. It's normal to give a piece 3 or 4 "coats" of grey undercoat (for example) and still be able to more or less discern what the original colour was. Spraying fixative over a weathered surface (or matt varnish) is no different.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 07:41 am
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Petermac
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Thanks Jeff - that explains it. :thumbs



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 Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 07:59 am
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Petermac

as jeff said, it is to give the pastels something to grip to. i aways add more pastels then remove. on with a stiff brush of with a soft one and before you add the final  matt varnish\fixident give it a blow.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 04:43 pm
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phill
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I have as you know building those tank things, well my wife bought me this today. said as i was really under the weather this week and still went into work for 6 days and then today for overtime but alast i had to come home after 4 hours today, too crap to carry on. Ain't i a Saint then :pathead.

So i bought a fueling depot, i did have a pic but for some reason its gone walk about, so if anyone wants to find a pic the part number is pm136.


1/ DO i go with the round roof or the sloping one. I am running steam and diesel, so not any kind of year as such. It says the slope for 60's onwards and the oval for before but what do you reckon looks better?.

2/ Has anyone built this thing, you have to follow the picture no set instructions as such and its doing my head in i tell you. So anyone help me out please, pretty please :lol:.

I have bought the various paints for painting and doing various rust and diesel stains when its done. Still got to put it in place and do the area with what ever to complete the corner, will post a pic in my thread when it is finished.

Also can i ask someone for a favour. I shall pay P& P. I need some signs and my printer is knackered, i need a few Esso signs and No smoking signs. Can someone help please.

 Also some blokes, maintenance. Thought go well with the depot, cant find a pic. The product is Bachmann 36051 if anyone wants to look for them

Phill


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