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Highland(LMS) Wagonworks - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 10:50 am
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Petermac
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:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

The transfers look great Darren - you've done a very neat job - but sound a bit fiddly to apply - aren't they all,  waterslide or methfix. As you say, they look much better not having the carrier left afterwards.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 12:38 pm
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darrenscots
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Finished the final transfers this evening, need to let them fully dry out now. I would hate to do a batch of wagons as very fiddly for wagon numbering etc!




 

 


 



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 Posted: Sat Oct 30th, 2010 03:50 pm
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Michael Thornberry
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Hello Darren,
That looks really good. It's such a shame these wagons aren't being produced anymore. Surely someone must have all the molds and jigging. Is there no way to find out? I think this could be a very "lonely" wagon, mate. WHAT!!! no brothers or sisters, aunts or uncles??? Excellent modelling, Darren,
Kind Regards,
Michael Thornberry.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 06:57 am
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Well as I said previously I needed to touch up the wagon before finishing the varnishing. But how to do this when the colour is from a spray can? - masking is really not an option but the paint is needed for small touch-ups. Looking at the tinlets of red oxide i have from various sources, there are marked differences. In true Blue Peter fashion I was able to decant the paint from the can using an old travel shampoo bottle, a drinking straw and blue tack!

I obtained the references from here :

http://quazen.com/recreation/crafts/how-to-decant-paint-from-aerosol-spray-can-paint/

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=301

I think heed should be taken of the warnings re the propoellant boil-off from the Tamiya article.

I used my portable spray booth and spray mask and I am now leaving the spray booth to run for the next half an hour to aid the boiling away of the propellant (some of which I thank you you can see when you look closely at the second picture sitting atop the paint - the rest is slowly bubbling up through thye paint ) If I have learned something I would have decanted into a larger jar (wider surface are to boil off) and then decanted into a small jar.



 



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 08:28 am
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The paint was very stable after an hour and with some strokes with a 0 sable brush, I not only touched up the outstanding pieces of paintwork, I also brushed as close as I dare to the letters. I will leave it all now to thoroughly dry this week and apply varnish next weekend (I am still not sure whether I will spray or brush apply the varnish (as I am paranoid that the shiny varnish may still yet shine through for the remaining peieces that were not accesible with the brush - I will do a test piece first! (and I still need to do the wheels...)





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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 08:55 am
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Michael Thornberry wrote: Hello Darren,
That looks really good. It's such a shame these wagons aren't being produced anymore. Surely someone must have all the molds and jigging. Is there no way to find out? I think this could be a very "lonely" wagon, mate. WHAT!!! no brothers or sisters, aunts or uncles??? Excellent modelling, Darren,
Kind Regards,
Michael Thornberry.


Michael dont worry, it has some cousins that have come out of the movers boxes (they are a bit dusty) ready for the transfers to be applied later this week (I do hope I have enough left!) : see build earlier in the this thread (bottom of page 1) - note the differences in red oxide (i like that for the purposes of authenticity as the Highland Railway folks were quite thrifty when it came to paint and bought paint in batches with differing shades as they were keen to snap up a "bargain"" and not spend too much money matching colours)




 

 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 02:39 am
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As we have a public holiday here in Singapore today, I had decided that I would sit down and spray the varnish but having read many horror stories, I thought I would thin the varnish and maybe brush on. Once I had mixed the varnish, I thought i would just do a small test panel (without first thinning the varnish) to try it out and when I saw the results I ended up brushing it all on as is! - I am very pleased with it and it "Does exactly what it says on the tin"" - picture shows varnish still drying.

I would therefore not have any hesitation in recommending putting the gloss on to allow the decals appplication and overcoating with matt (I am however going to experiment with the bolster wagons by applying decals without the gloss)


 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 04:00 am
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Looks like a good finish to me, and the lettering has come out very well indeed.

OK... next is the weathing isn't it... lots of all obscuring black and dirty grey :thumbs :mutley



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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 08:03 am
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Marty wrote: Looks like a good finish to me, and the lettering has come out very well indeed.

OK... next is the weathing isn't it... lots of all obscuring black and dirty grey :thumbs :mutley

Ha Ha Marty I knew someone was going to say that!!:lol: I am going to leave that for now!!!



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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 09:20 am
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Finished the markings on the bolster wagons today. Some touch up evidently required on the wagon underframes though where primer is showing on the springs. Will need to let transfer thoroughly dry for the next week before final varnishing.






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 Posted: Fri Nov 5th, 2010 10:57 pm
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Great job Darren.The lettering looks the business!! (If you think its hard putting on those little numbers on one OO gauge wagon,you should try doing 3 in n gauge!:roll::lol:)
  Next up is some subtle weathering,and I just know they will look fantastic,well done mate.

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 01:08 am
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georgejacksongenius wrote: Great job Darren.The lettering looks the business!! (If you think its hard putting on those little numbers on one OO gauge wagon,you should try doing 3 in n gauge!:roll::lol:)
  Next up is some subtle weathering,and I just know they will look fantastic,well done mate.

Cheers,John.B

 

Thanks John.

I would hate to think how fiddly N would be - I take my hat off to you!!

See pic below on 10mm squares mat, I ended up using the point of the knife to move the letters to the wagon and finally place them (its also soul destroying when you sneeze and the letters blow to the four corners of the room!)





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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 06:08 am
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Next build is a 8T open wagon converted for sheep traffic. This is a micorail kit of 1983 vintage and a new challenge - Brass! (with a little bit of whitemetal and styrene)

 

Box Contents first ....








 



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 07:22 am
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It said in the instrructions for the sole bar that I needed to punch the rivets and I had throughts that I would need to buy a rivert press or make/buy rivets. After looking at the underside the rivet locations are marked  and with a piece of wood offcut, a screw and a set of pliers (as a hammer!!) all it took was two gentle taps at each location!! and they show up lovely!! The first one or two i nearly/did break through but got into a rythmn after that.

I have assembled the chassis / w-irons and dug up wheels/romford bearings from my bits box. Now i need to do some soldering!








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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 07:42 am
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Very good work, Darren.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 09:49 am
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I now have a rolling chassis. After some frustration getting the soldering iron cleaned (it had a weird amalgam of various soldering adventures to be cleared first) after that it went smoothly, I made up the w-iron units (one fixed/part of the chassis and the other floating - its a compensated chassis) and the chassis. I had of course hadnt spotted that I hadnt soldered up the fixed w-iron before folding down the wagon edges. Having watched a trick with solder pellets from Tony Wright and heating from the underside, it went in beautifully (see above the wheels on the left hand side where it has come through the joint)

Two pix only as battery went flat on camera and I need to go find charger!







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 Posted: Sat Nov 6th, 2010 11:05 am
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I have sweated on the solebars (I was sweating myself i can tell you!) some tidy up to do - I am glad i stopped to have a break before I put them on as it was only then when relaxing with my cup of tea did I note in the instructions that they are left and right handed to suit  a slot for the brake!






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 Posted: Sun Nov 7th, 2010 05:46 am
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Fitted  the brake assembly (its made of 3 components) and the brake ratchet (4 attempts to complete that!)




 The brake handle and brass wire cross-shaft to the brake assembly went on without any issue.






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 Posted: Sun Nov 7th, 2010 07:11 am
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darrenscots wrote: Good to hear from everyone.  Thanks for the advice on brakes. I have a ratio coach kit to start but really dont want to build it without doing the internals (the kit only has the compartment dividers and not seats etc). I have found that there are internal coach seating sets available separately from ratio - I will get one set and look to use that as a master to copy for future other builds. I will however need to get some books on the internal seating colours etc of the LMS.

Given that I may wait for the seats I guess I really should get metal wheels and brass bearings as the kit has plastic wheels only...

I am off overseas for 2 weeks on business so no more for a wee while unfortunately!!

 


Hi Darren, A bit late maybe, A little photo excuse my cousin sitting in the coach, Took this photo in 1987 at the Keighly and Worth railway. I assume they kept to authentic colours of the seats ect, may help?

regards,Derek.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 12th, 2010 12:29 pm
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shunter1 wrote: darrenscots wrote: Good to hear from everyone.  Thanks for the advice on brakes. I have a ratio coach kit to start but really dont want to build it without doing the internals (the kit only has the compartment dividers and not seats etc). I have found that there are internal coach seating sets available separately from ratio - I will get one set and look to use that as a master to copy for future other builds. I will however need to get some books on the internal seating colours etc of the LMS.

Given that I may wait for the seats I guess I really should get metal wheels and brass bearings as the kit has plastic wheels only...

I am off overseas for 2 weeks on business so no more for a wee while unfortunately!!

 


Hi Darren, A bit late maybe, A little photo excuse my cousin sitting in the coach, Took this photo in 1987 at the Keighly and Worth railway. I assume they kept to authentic colours of the seats ect, may help?

regards,Derek.




 

Many thanks Derek! The design looks very modern doesnt it?



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