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Highland(LMS) Wagonworks - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Apr 6th, 2009 03:31 pm
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Kevr
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 Very nice Darren, they should look even better when they are painted :doublethumb



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 Posted: Mon Apr 6th, 2009 05:05 pm
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phill
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Nice to have you back :doublethumb. Like the wagon builds and look forward to the paint job, watching with interest.

Phill

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 Posted: Mon Apr 6th, 2009 05:28 pm
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Petermac
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They really do look good Darren and, at £12 for the two, not over the top on price !!

Being white metal, they'll have enough weight as well which is one up on the plastic kits.

Looking forward to learning how to paint my wagon :roll::roll::roll::roll: :cheers



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 Posted: Mon Apr 6th, 2009 07:12 pm
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Folks thanks for all the positive encouragement!! Yes I have a very sheepish look on my face as I have been procrastinating on the painting side of things (various excuses such as no paint booth, not enough space, too much humidity, not having the right colour of paint (add additional excuses as you see fit)) but in my defence I have been deep in Iain Rathbone's "Painting & Lining" - its a lovely read , now where is my bow pen....



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 Posted: Mon Apr 6th, 2009 07:19 pm
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darrenscots
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Petermac wrote: They really do look good Darren and, at £12 for the two, not over the top on price !!

Being white metal, they'll have enough weight as well which is one up on the plastic kits.

Looking forward to learning how to paint my wagon :roll::roll::roll::roll: :cheers



Petermac the photo is unclear but they are GBP17 / pair and when you add wheels, bearings and three link couplings (plus transfers) they are on the pricey side but I have justified that on entertainment value alone this is far cheaper than other alternate forms of entertainment (on the basis how long this takes me to finish).

The reality is that the later RTR models do offer exceptional value (whether new or 2nd hand) in comparison so it would be interesting though to start looking at other models that could be modded to gain the same/similar result (even just considering starting from a rolling chassis perspective?) 



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 Posted: Mon Apr 6th, 2009 07:35 pm
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henryparrot wrote: Darren those 51L kits look superb i will have to get some of those myself i need to look where i can source them from.

cheers Brian


Hi Brian, 51L can be found at the following website :

http://www.51l.co.uk/51lmain.htm

 

 



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 Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 08:28 pm
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Today, I completed the horse hooks, bolster assembly and installed the swivel ring (and then removed the ring it as it looked poor! - the prototype for non-swivel did not have a ring). This took ages!! See before and after below :






 


 





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 Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 10:13 pm
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owen69
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does look better without the ring,it is a good looking wagon.

:thumbs:lol::cool:

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 Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 10:35 pm
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darrenscots
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The brake gear was installed tonight. More superglue (again). I used a piece of wire for the pivot and snipped the wire of and filed it off to make it look like the end of a bolt.

I am going to leave it to set tonight but I will be using solder for the next one - the superglue is extremely fiddly and seems to stick EVERYTHING but the component...

This is also the first time I have used the pin vice and spit for the lubricant...(it does work)


The handbrake lever shape may also be tweaked a little but I had best leave alone for now lest i break the bond.

The only remaining items are the three link couplings (Oh yes the paint and transfers...!)

Whilst the kit was pricey I do believe that it was good value and I still havent started its twin sister yet!! I can see how building wagons could become infectious!!

 



 



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 Posted: Fri Apr 10th, 2009 11:53 pm
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darrenscots
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I decided to keep on going and finish the wagon couplings tonight. More drilling with the pin vice and clearing out with the sharp blade. I have shown the instructions as they show how they are installed much better than I could explain.

 






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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 01:56 am
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With those kits Darren, additional weight is not needed as normally low-sided wagoms are a devil to get sufficient weight into them. Looking forward to both of them on a track.

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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 08:02 am
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darrenscots
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Sol wrote: With those kits Darren, additional weight is not needed as normally low-sided wagoms are a devil to get sufficient weight into them. Looking forward to both of them on a track.
Yes Sol they have got nice weight to them and thankfully the casting doesnt look to "heavy" (as I understand it from my research some whitemetal castings such a locos can have edges that are far too thick and need some tweaking to make them look slimmer - ie filing of the open facing edges to introduce a slight bevel thus narrowing it to the eye)



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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 08:21 am
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It is turning out to be a lovely looking kit Darren im sure you are very pleased with the results so far.

cheers Brian

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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 09:18 am
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henryparrot wrote: It is turning out to be a lovely looking kit Darren im sure you are very pleased with the results so far.

cheers Brian

Yes Brian, its far more detailed than i thought and very pleasing to the eye - I have been evaluating the planned colour - the instruction states indian red yet my research shows red oxide - I have bought red oxide primer as the final coat - I also have an aubergine colour that looks close plus a humbrol matt 160 Matt "German Camouflage Red Brown" (looks too brown though) as alternates...



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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 01:39 pm
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Today, I decided to start of the sister vehicle and given what I have learned I will be constructing this differently.

Firstly I drilled out all the holes on the flat (much easier)rather than after assembly - I have highlighted the areas in red boxes on the pic below. In addition I have also installed the coupling hooks as well. 



 

 

 



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 Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 05:00 pm
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darrenscots
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Well after much preparation I did my first bit of real soldering today (the previous soldering i did on the signal box was more of the bodgit kind!). I am pleased with the results. The Weller low watt (12W) mini iron is spot on for this kind of work. I learnt that I used way too much solder initially and that its best simply to lift the "horn" straight from the length of low melt solder (i had read this before but didnt understand it but do now). I bought the flux (green) and solder from C&L (good prompt service) - the iron is from Maplins. I have washed the wagon now to neutralise the flux (I have some neutralizing agent also but not really convinced that I need it though (time will tell!!).

Something interesting was the need for three plus hands - all the handy clips and vices I have accumlated over the years still didnt help - like all solutions it was low tech and something i had read about when soldering - good old blue tack! (good for uses for display purposes! (see pic below)



 



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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 03:28 pm
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darrenscots
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Today i completed the other wagon. The completion of the bolster and the shackles took a fair bit of time (hand drilling and forming the shackles took a while) The brake lever ratchets didnt go together well on this one (the etchings fell apart after too much fiddling by me) and I ended up using epoxy resin as there was no way superglue would hold and i felt soldering would be a recipe for a disaster. The horse hooks went in without complaint as well as the brake shoes and levers.

One item of note was the mixing of superglue and epoxy resin using the same piece of card led to some obvious bad conflict (i could see/smell vapour rising) which seemed to be made worse by the heat of the lamp I was using , so something I wont be doing in the future!. I am also reminded and apologise if its been raised before I did also read that you should avoid soldering after using superglue for joints as this can also give rise to a nasty gas...

I also had to repair one axlebox (on the opposite of the picture shown below) due to some overzealous drilling by me from behind to give clearance for the brass bearing that it needs to fit over. I simply filled using squadron green putty (this is also another one that contains a nasty chemical (Toluene) so to be used with caution). I am going to leave everything overnight now so that all the glues/fillers have set.



 

 



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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 04:21 pm
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They look awesome mate :thumbs, as ner to the real thing you could get well done.

Phill

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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 05:35 pm
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Very, very neat looking pair of wagons Darren.  :thumbs

They certainly look much tougher than the plastic kits but I suppose you "pays your money and takes your choice" !!

The moldings (castings) seem much crisper than you get with plastic and I imagine they can stand up to more "brute force". :roll:

One huge advantage is that they won't need extra weight.  That seems to be a problem with "empty" wagons in plastic - where to put the weight and yet retain the detail.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 06:30 pm
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For a first attempt at a metal kit Darrren you have made a really good job of them obviously you have learnt a few do`s and dont`s in the process.

As its metal will you not have to use an etch primer first before painting final colour?

Super glue Gel is sometimes better than standard super glue its a lot thicker plus gives you a bit more handling time.

cheers Brian

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