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The Co-op - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 02:48 pm
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Perry
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Having finalised 'The Plan' after messing around with the card mock-ups, I set about fabricating the glazed part of the main entrance. I decided that the easiest way was to make it in four parts; two front windows and two angled sections that line the entrance. The angled sections at the rear will have lattice at the top with a door beneath on each side. There is a small gap at the rear between the two sections that will be blanked off with plain plastikard. This will represent the very narrow piece of interior wall between the doors.

I cut two pieces of Nudec Petg, 11mm x 41mm, with a coarse-bladed razor saw. These form the front windows. Two more pieces were cut measuring 30mm x 41 mm. These were marked with a line 10mm from one end. This was the position of the bend line. I placed a steel ruler along the bend line and gently 'persuaded' the plastic into the shape I wanted with my fingers.

To make up the sub-assemblies I cemented a piece of 1mm x 1mm microstrip inside the angles, joining the front windows to the wings. Then I overlaid the outside edges of the corner with some 2mm x 0.4mm microstrip.



This took less time to do than it took to describe.

I dry-fitted the sub-assemblies to check the fit and all looks OK so far.



They don't really show up too well under this lighting, but I hope this picture gives the general impression. I'll leave them to set hard now before I start the rest of the framing and lattice work.

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 04:18 pm
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Gwent Rail
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Many years ago I was taught to build structures by some master craftsmen. Exhibitions were less numerous but normally big events where all the doyens of the model railway world were in attendance. It was at one of these events that I first got shown some practical scratchbuilding and was hooked.

Since those days, I have more recently spoken (at some shows) to the likes of Chris Ellis and Ken Ball and they maintain that the easiest way is to do everything possible "in the flat" before assembly of the walls. That includes painting, although some final touch-up work is always going to be necessary after glueing the component parts together. 

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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 04:26 pm
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Kevr
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 That's looking really good Perry, is there ANY details that you have missed out. :hmm

Excellent quality, a real craftsman :doublethumb:doublethumb

 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 04:31 pm
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excelent Perry, boy have i learned a lot from this build,

:cheers:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:lol::lol::lol::cool:

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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 04:32 pm
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Perry
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Kevr wrote:  

 That's looking really good Perry, is there ANY details that you have missed out. :hmm

Excellent quality, a real craftsman :doublethumb:doublethumb

 


:lol::lol::lol:

I haven't fitted the door handle yet......:cool wink :mutley

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 04:34 pm
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Gwent Rail
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I've got to tell you that although I fancy myself as a more than adequate scratch-builder, Perry is up there with the best. His work would stand up against most of the "big names" out there. Just exquisite craftsmanship :exclam:exclam

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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 04:56 pm
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Perry
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Gwent Rail wrote: Many years ago I was taught to build structures by some master craftsmen...............


There's lucky then! :pathead:pathead:cool wink

I had to learn the hard way - but that was when I lived in't paper bag in't middle o't road. :thud:lol::lol:

You embarrass me with your kind words, Jeff. :oops::oops::cheers Thank you.

I initially took a few basic ideas from books and magazines and then developed my own way of doing things. They're not necessarily the right ways, but they are my ways. I've made mistakes and learned lots from them. My skills, such as they are, are still improving slowly. I have a lot to learn, but if I found all scratchbuilding easy, I think it might lose some of its interest. One thing is certain though; stuff doesn't get built just by thinking about it. So, c'mon, get out your plastikard/card/wood or whatever you choose to use and have a go! :Happy 

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Dec 3rd, 2008 11:02 am
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Les
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Perry wrote:  then developed my own way of doing things. They're not necessarily the right ways, but they are my ways.

If the experts to which Jeff refers hadn't done exactly that then there would have been no progress and for that matter no experts either.

This has been an education Perry - thank you.

Les

 



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 Posted: Wed Dec 3rd, 2008 01:57 pm
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Perry
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Work has started with framing up the windows that form main entrance. I used 1mm x 1mm microstrip to form the main frames.



The next images shows the two sub-assemblies propped in roughly the right places, but as you can see they are not properly upright yet.



I'm a little concerned about how to represent the two inner doors. The current photos of the prototype doors show them as predominantly glass with quite thin framing. Whilst building them like this isn't a problem, I have a sneaking suspicion that the previous old doors - from when the building was first built, were of a more 'solid' construction. Unfortunately, the old reference photos I am working from were taken from such an angle as to make it impossible to see the doors. The only good thing about that is that few people will know if they are right or wrong. The thin-framed types would be more work to fabricate but I wouldn't let that put me off if I thought that was the right way to go. Maybe I'll do a test run to see which looks best.

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Dec 3rd, 2008 03:10 pm
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Perry
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Another 'Secret Weapon'! :twisted:

I don't think I have mentioned before a technique I find useful for preparing small parts during a scratchbuild.

Even though I can measure to an accuracy of about 0.5mm by eye, some measurements can be tricky to get because of the shape or orientation of the part required.

I find a small pair of spring calipers invaluable for taking a dimension straight from a drawing or plan, or in this case, directly from the model itself.

Here they are in use measuring the length required for a piece of lattice work:




By turning the small knurled wheel half-way up the side of the calipers the points can be adjusted very finely to obtain the exact measurement required. This can then be transfered directly to the material to be cut.

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Dec 3rd, 2008 04:59 pm
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Matt
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Perry

as always a grand job, i would go for the more solid doors so you know that is a dorr:shock: what i mean is in the doorway you have a lot of glass so a solid door would make the work you have put in stand out.

Ref. the callipers, i have just got a set from squirres as i struggled measuring accurate widths on the model using a steel ruler.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 4th, 2008 10:48 am
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Perry
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Apart from the doors, windowsills and rear joining wall, which will be added later, the fabrication of the two main entrance sub-assemblies are pretty much finished.

They currently total 64 separate pieces, including the glazing. Each sub-assembly measures about 3.5 cms x 4 cms.



I have to admit I am pleased with the result so far. I had my doubts about the chosen method when I started, but it's all turned out fairly well. I think the lattice work looks reasonably authentic and, as it is a major feature of the prototype, needed representing as accurately as my limited skills would allow on the model.

Again, in the following photo, the sub-assemblies are only propped in place and not fixed:



I'm now going to let the sub-assemblies set really hard before I do any more work on them. I'm going to take a little 'looking and thinking' time before I continue with the next steps. There's no point in rushing things.

Perry



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 Posted: Thu Dec 4th, 2008 12:24 pm
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Gwent Rail
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That's turning into an impressive frontage, Perry. Well worth the effort with so many small pieces. look foward to seeing the completed fron, but don't hurry it, well worth the wait for things to set hard.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 4th, 2008 03:46 pm
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Perry
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While everything else was drying, I spent a few minutes on the main gable windows.

This is the prototype:



I cut two pieces of Nudec Petg to size and fixed them behind the window openings with Araldite adhesive. This stuff 'goes off' in a few minutes and is then strong enough to work with if you do it carefully. It continues to strengthen over several hours.

Once the Araldite was set, I used some 1mm square microstrip to form the outer frame and the main cross members. The pairs of main verticals were fabricated from 0.4mm x 2mm strip and then the smaller verticals added from 0.5mm 0.75mm strip.

The whole lot now needs to set hard before the thin horizontal glazing bars are added. This is how it looks so far:



There seems to be a little distortion on the right of this picture that isn't evident on the model. My rubbish photography strikes again!

Perry



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 Posted: Thu Dec 4th, 2008 05:51 pm
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Perry
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...and here are the finished gable windows:



I decided to run horizontal strips straight across rather than making dozens of very short ones to go in between the verticals.

Aligning so many individual pieces between the uprights would have been far too difficult - not to make, but to persuade to stay in convincing aligment. I had to make a choice between the 'correct' way to do it and the way that would look best. The latter won by a short head.

That leaves me just three 'plain' rectangular windows to glaze and frame. :thumbs The main entrance still has to be completed, but there's not a huge amount to do, then I shall tackle the roof and gables.

By the way, I noticed the misalignment of a couple of verticals on the right-hand bay window. These have been corrected. :oops:

Anyway, that's all I'm doing on the model for today. I'm working over the next few days - right through the weekend, in fact, but more will hopefully follow before too long

Perry



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 Posted: Thu Dec 4th, 2008 06:14 pm
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Perry you said "By the way, I noticed the misalignment of a couple of verticals on the right-hand bay window. These have been corrected. :oops:"

Now forgive, i know nothing about this sort of building lark but is the door frame also a tad bent, if i am wrong sorry but it looks it to me. Dont mean to be rude mate, just that it looks that way to me.

Non the less a marvelous buil mate, cant wait for the finished build.

Phill

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 Posted: Thu Dec 4th, 2008 07:30 pm
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Perry
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phill wrote: ................is the door frame also a tad bent, if i am wrong sorry but it looks it to me.......

 

It's an optical illusion, Phill. The doorway hasn't been secured in place and is leaning at a weird angle in the photo. Thanks for keeping an eye on things for me though! :cool wink

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Dec 7th, 2008 06:39 pm
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Perry
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The window framing has been completed:



The main entrance sub-assemblies are still yet to be finished and set properly in place.

I think the lattice work and the window framing sets the frontage off quite nicely.

The upper floor windows contain 66 separate pieces in all, not including the glazing, arches, keystones or sills. Another nice fiddly little job completed! :Happy

I think I shall tackle the roof and gables next, leaving the interior and final work on the main entrance until later.

By breaking the build down into stages, it has been easily manageable, and also allows me to change the order I do things as the mood takes me.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Dec 7th, 2008 06:47 pm
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It really is looking good Perry. Quite an impressive structure.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 7th, 2008 06:51 pm
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Perry
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Thank goodness it's only low-relief :exclam 

The slightly more difficult jobs are over with now; well, not really difficult, just a little fiddly and time-consuming.

I'm hoping the rest should be fairly straightforward.

Perry



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