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The Co-op - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 12:09 pm
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owen69
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Perry ,please ignore my warped sense of humour.
you do not come across school-masterish at all, its just i like
the new approach,more informative than just a pic, and tells us not only
how, but why and what for etc. :Happy

( classic example of the wrong words at the wrong time ! )
sorry. :thud:oops::lol::lol::lol::cool:

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 Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 12:24 pm
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Matt
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Perry

Don't stop.

i am learning a lot with this one. i have always gone with the 7 P's

PRIOR PLANNING and PREPARATION PREVENTS a P*%S POOR PERFORMANCE.

I have lacked the knowledge of the preparation stage when working on my layout. it something that nobody really goes into before now:thumbs

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 Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 01:04 pm
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Perry
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:doublethumb

The ten single-course stringers have all been fixed in place. I checked the alignment with a steel straightedge as I completed each one, but using the embossed bricks as a guide to laying them, none of them was far out.



I've placed the completed unit face-down on the workbench and put a weight on the back. This is to minimise curling as the solvent dries. Although I kept the solvent to a minimum, the material is only .020" (0.5mm) thick and tends to curl if no preventative measures are taken.

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 01:24 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Perry,You are doing just fine in explaining how you are doing things, PLEASE don't change a thing! I am reading each one intently.

Wayne



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 Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 03:26 am
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Marty
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As we say down under...
"She's right mate!"
I'm watching and learning, keep it coming.
cheers



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N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
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 Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:44 pm
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Perry
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The two main windows are a little unusual in their design in that they are bay windows that don't protrude! The back of the bay is set back so that the front-most window panel is still in alignment with the plain windows. This doesn't show up very well on the photos I have, but I have studied the prototype with the Mk.1 eyeball and think I can see how to build them.

I have cut some small pieces of Plastikard and cemented them in place as return walls for the brick piers that abutt the bay windows. I have begun cladding them using the fancy brickwork strip I built yesterday.

I used tube cement because it allows me to slide the pieces into place, giving easier adjustment than solvent which grabs almost instantly.



I have removed the section of wall at the base of the two bay windows. This was found to be necessary to allow the bays to be fitted correctly. The one beneath the main entrance door will be either removed or reduced in height when I come to work on that area, as will the one below the smaller entrance doors at the right-hand end of the buildng.

A few minutes work and the rest of brick pier cladding is in place:



The end ones overlap a little to allow for the return walls to be fitted later.

Perry




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 Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 10:41 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Looking very nice Perry, I'm waiting to see what you are going to do with the corners for the cladding on the brick piers. You don't have to answer, I'll just keep watching!

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 09:33 am
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Matt
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i will ask perry

this has always baffled me. i have some milliput, could this be used as a filla? how do you do yours?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 04:37 pm
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Perry
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I haven't decided how - or if - I'm going to fettle the corners yet. I'll wait to see what the overall effect is when I've done some more construction. I may use some tiny pieces of filler where the string courses meet.

I have some of the fancy brickwork to spare so I might try making a dummy corner to test different techniques or materials on.

You certainly can use milliput as a filler, but it can be a bit time consuming and wasteful due to the mixing needed.

For general filling work I prefer MMD White Putty which is available in many model shops. I can take tiny quantities straight from the tube if that's all I need. It dries very quickly (almost too quickly sometimes if the room is very warm) but can be sanded, cut or filed to shape very easily. I apply it with the tip of a miniature screwdriver blade. If you have deep areas to fill, do it in several thin layers rather than all at once. It will set more quickly.

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 08:26 pm
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phill
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Perry please dont stop your methods on how and what etc, i find it very interesting and i can even follow it as well, yep i can :thumbs.

This may sound daft but when you make these buildings, the CO-OP included do you measure the part of the layout it is going to be situated in or do you make it fit , do i make sense :roll:, when its built. Only asking really as some of your buildings are fairly big.

Phill

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 Posted: Sat Nov 8th, 2008 09:32 pm
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Perry
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phill wrote: ......................when you make these buildings, the CO-OP included do you measure the part of the layout it is going to be situated in or do you make it fit , do i make sense :roll:, when its built. Only asking really as some of your buildings are fairly big.

Phill


It's a fair cop, Phill; you've sussed me out. By building BIG buildings I don't have to build so many! :mutley

Seriously though, I try to find buildings that I like that will fit in the space I have available. The changes from the prototype that I do make usually involve buildings being on level ground rather than on a slope or some changes where they adjoin other buildings. The Co-op is a good example. The prototype is on a slight hill and I don't want to include the building that it is joined to on it's eastern side so it will stand alone. A concession to restricted space makes it imperative that I build this as a low-relief model. Apart from that, the back of this building adjoins others and is pretty ugly anyway.

The decision to build the Great Eastern Goods Shed was only taken after rough scale plans and a card mock-up proved that I could fit it in to the desired site.

So I suppose the quick answer to your question is both yes and no, but not necessarily in that order. :cool wink

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Nov 9th, 2008 10:01 am
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Ken
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Perry, how do you cut out so cleanly the curved top part of the two large windows?
Ken.



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 Posted: Sun Nov 9th, 2008 04:36 pm
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Perry
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I use a 'Compass Cutter' to start the cut, then if I'm using thick Plastikard - as I was in this case - I deepen the cut a little with the point of a craft knife. With care, the curve then just snaps out - just like any other plastikard cut.

Have a look at this thread for more details of the Compass Cutter:

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=345&forum_id=19

It takes a little bit of practice - but not too much! :cool wink One little tip is to not go over the cut too many times with the Cutter; it can tend to wander off line. Once you've done a light cut or two with it, use a knife to deepen the cut. It's certainly the easiest way I've yet found of cutting accurate full circles or part thereof.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Nov 9th, 2008 08:54 pm
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Perry
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Above the windows are some small 'canopies' with decorative wooden slats beneath them.

I cut some 1mm thick Plastikard into 4.5mm strips and laminated a 1mm x 3.2mm strip onto them. The photos of the prototype showed that there were 9 small slats fitted in to roughly 6 feet of width. I cut some 3.2 mm pieces of 1mm x 1mm strip and fixed them in place as evenly spaced as I could. The end ones are slightly inset and the position of the middle one can be measured, so fitting the rest was a doddle.

Here is the prototype with the fabricated unit inset.



This isn't fixed in place yet so may not be perfectly aligned.

One more 6 ft 0" and three 10 ft 6" units to go! They're a bit fiddly but I think they are worthwhile modelling as accurately as possible as they contribute to the appearance and character of the building.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Nov 9th, 2008 09:00 pm
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Sol
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They're a bit fiddly

Now that is an understatement if I saw one Perry. This thread is very interesting to say the least.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 02:32 am
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Kevr
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 This is going to turn out to be another first class building:doublethumb:doublethumb

 If only we were all as good:hmm:hmm



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 04:27 pm
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phill
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You know no matter how intricate the parts of the build you do Perry, you always make it look easy. I know you say its just practice, i for one think that you have either got the gift for this sort of thing or not. You deffo have the gift.

As some one said another master build, will it be the best yet, somehow i think it will, you have uped your game by a long way.

Phill

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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 05:36 pm
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Perry
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Thanks, Phill, those are kind words indeed.

Those 1mm x 1mm x 3.2mm parts are fun to deal with; when I try to hold them in place to apply the solvent brush, the little blighters keep disappearing up behind my fingernails! At least I know where to look when I lose one.:roll:

Still, I've fitted 18 and only have another 51 to do. :doublethumb

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 05:50 pm
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phill
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Perry wrote: Still, I've fitted 18 and only have another 51 to do. :doublethumb

Perry


Is that all, huh be down in 5 minutes i reckon :mutley.

Just a thought get RJR round mate he have it done in a night and thats the whole build :thumbs:mutley:mutley

Phill

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 Posted: Mon Nov 10th, 2008 08:09 pm
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Perry
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With that number of identical pieces to cut, I rigged up a temporary cutting jig on my little guillotine (shown elsewhere on this forum) and chopped the remaining 51 pieces to length in less than two minutes. :Happy

Perry



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