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Plastic clear glaziing fixing - Hints, Tips & Smaller Projects. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 10:50 am
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henryparrot
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I build a lot of kits and the one thing i have often found to be a slight problem is fixing plastic glazing like windows in buildings etc.

What adhesives have members found works best for this especially on plastic kits

I often find using normal plastic kit adhesive not matter how careful you are after it goes off you do get misting or clouding on the glazing panel.

ideas be appreciated

cheers Brian.W

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 11:10 am
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Robert
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When sticking plastic glazing to card I have always used UHU but it's not a good long term solution.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 11:45 am
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mojo1
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The merest hint of evostik or some similarly tacky rather than runny glue, applied with cocktail stick or something similar.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 11:45 am
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Bob K
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Brian

On plastic structures I use super glue, which I also use for pieces of kits which I have pre painted. I usually pre paint things like window frames and so getting the glazing to stay in has been a problem. Super glue seems to work the best. All other glues fail after a time. I dropped a model building the other day and all of the glazing, which had been put in with normal modelling cement, fell away. I had to dismantle the roof and one wall to fit it all back in place - using super glue this time :roll:

Bob(K)

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 12:41 pm
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henryparrot
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Well


I have just tried Mojos suggestion of using evo stick as i have a tube of that here
As he says use a cocktail stick to apply it and it does work fine and give you a little bit of working time.

the cocktail stick is important if you squirted it straight from the tube because it is bogiefied you would end up with a right mess.
I think because it does not actually weld or attack the plastic as many glues do thats what makes the differance.

Bob(K) i do use super glue a lot but i find if you need to position someting it tends to go off a bit quick sometimes

cheers Brian.W

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 12:54 pm
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owen69
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Brianw,you can get superglue gel,it gives you time to reposition things
beforeit sets,
but for glazing in buildings i use double sided sticky tape topped off with selotape,they stay put.
:wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 01:08 pm
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henryparrot
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Qwen

Yes i use a lot of the superglue gel i find it much better than standard superglue the standard superglue is far to fluid and can flow everywhere whereas the gel is more controllable.
My missus buys tubes of ultraloc super glue gel for 89p a tube in a shop in the village here which i think is quite a good price.

cheers Brian.W

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 04:57 pm
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Gwent Rail
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It's double sided tape for me too, although in places where it's going to be difficult to position, I have used PVA with sucess.
Don't know how the PVA will behave long term, but hoping it will be OK.

I was thinking of using PVA next time and then just a spot of mekpac on the edges to finally secure. The mekpac should be drawn under the edge by capillary action, but a very small amount should not travel beyond the framing.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 05:22 pm
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owen69
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Jeff i have buildings over 25yrs old with pva glazing they are still ok.
but it is getting fragile now!
:cry: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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 Posted: Sun Aug 3rd, 2008 10:20 pm
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darrenscots
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An adhesive which was recommended to me by my local model shop which I can attest to is Testors Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker.It dries in an hour or so and can be used to create windows. It wipes away clear without residue so any slips in handling are not a disaster. See pic below.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 7th, 2012 07:02 am
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cobach47
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Try Micro Kristal Kleer, as it says it dries completely clear, it can also be used to fill small windows.

and if you make a mistake can be peeled off without damage.

Order it from SBX Models .

                                                              Ian ( Herts )

 

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 Posted: Sat Jan 7th, 2012 10:16 am
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jim s-w
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I use either Klear floor polish (old version), micro kristal kleer or canopy glue.

Hth

Jim



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 Posted: Sat Jan 7th, 2012 11:05 am
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SRman
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I'm with Ian (cobach47) on this. The Micro product works a treat as it also fills any gaps left around the edges - particularly useful for curved windscreens on road vehicles as these are notoriously difficult to cut accurately.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 7th, 2012 01:33 pm
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Softvark
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cobach47 wrote: Try Micro Kristal Kleer,
                                                              Ian ( Herts )


Another vote for Kristal Kleer. Tries clear and holds well. I've tried Klear floor polish in the past but it doesn't seem very strong.

Julian

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 Posted: Sat Jan 7th, 2012 08:57 pm
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Chubber
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I use several different methods but lately have come down in favour of clear acrylic varnish when I can afford the two-three hours to let it dry, or, I hold the acetate in place with clothes pegs [turned inside out to get the reach] and then introduce a very little Roket card glue by Deluxe Materials under each edge, allowing it to creep around the edges by 'caterpillar reaction'. It becomes tacky very very quickly, when you can remove the peg and move on to the next window. It stays a tiny bit 'rubbery' and adheres very well to acetate, perspex and even microscope slide glass, something I've been playing with.

Doug



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 Posted: Wed Jan 11th, 2012 01:57 pm
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Campaman
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I use PVA, Johnsons Klear (only got two and half bottles left of the original stuff), and Revel clear & chrome parts glue, which is a bit like a runny UHU but doesn't string, all of these dry clear which I think is important with any sort of glazing both for visual finish and in the case of the PVA also a bit of gap filling.

I steer clear of superglue with glazing as I have had some problems with the fumes causing misting, although it may be OK with the gel type.



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