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Edging - Baseboards. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 12:10 pm
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Perth Buddy
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Guys ..... Quick question

As I am nearly in a position to fix the top boards on to the framework I was wondering if there is any benefit either aesthetically or safety of fixing a facing on the framework which would hide the edge of the top board and the framework as well maybe providing a lip of say 20mm which may give a degree of prevention to items falling off the layout

Your thoughts would be appreciated

Happy Modelling

Matt

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 12:29 pm
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Les
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I remember on the first forum when I introduced Devon Junction, Sparky commented that some of the track ran very near the edge of the board and was I not worried about something coming off. The answer was yes but I still haven't done anything about it because I like to look at trains from track level. Fingers crossed, so far the inevitable hasn't happened.

I may eventually put a little scratchbuilt brick wall along the edge to prevent the locos hitting the deck.

What I'm saying Matt is that in my opinion it depends how you want to view your trains and b) how close the tracks are to the edge.

Les



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 12:57 pm
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Matt
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i will be adding a lip\edging around my layout. i will do this as and when i do the scenery at the edge of the board. this is for 2 reasons
1 no doubt my son will love grabbing everything in reach so this will prevent little fingers reaching to far :D
2 i always have a plan change, so i may move the control panel or add a second point\switch board. so if the edging was in place it would have to be removed.

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 01:30 pm
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Ken
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I've always thought that the edging is one of the "make or break" areas (aesthetically speaking) to any layout being as it marks the transition from the model world to the real one. Often baseboards have a contoured edge where the scenary goes up and down and the facing follows this, but to me, this never looks good, but, what else can you do short of having everything finishing level at the baseboard edge? Of course, you can have roads, rivers, walls etc., etc., at the edge but it's always a compromise so it's really what suits the modeller. Having said that, Matt's point about the safety aspect is a valid one and something else to consider.
Ken.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 01:39 pm
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Sol
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I have used 3mm MDF as an scenic edge having some contours between the baseboard edge & track. I have also used 6mm/ 1/4" clear perspex of about 75mm/3 " high with is about 50/50 on the edge so it sticks up about 40mm/1.5" to stop accidents but allowing one to get down close to see what is going on..

On the previous layout. I used deeper perspex about 6" - 4" above the baseboard to protect buildings, etc that maybe close to the edge..

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 02:00 pm
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Gwent Rail
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Personally, I like the undulating edge that give the end of the scenery a bit of variation.
If you do this, I think it's vital to finish off things flush with the level of the undulations and to allow the edge board to be at least 3" below the original baseboard level to hide the frame.
I then finish off by painting the front with a matt black (or other dark colour) paint.

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 02:23 pm
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Robert
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I too use an undulating facia and then come right down to the baseboard edge, if needed, for river, road exits, or whatever your imagination has worked out.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 02:25 pm
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CCGWR
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Hi Matt,

I have seen the use of clear perspex on Sol's layout and it looks good. He did not have it on his entire layout but where it was located served a purpose and you could still see the trains.

On my layout I will be doing some areas with clear perspex and other areas just a raised scenic edge, and another part of the layout there will be neither. It will depend on the particular scene on the that portion of my layout.

There has been some good feedback on an an interesting topic.

Cheers

Connor (CCGWR)



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 03:25 pm
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Robert
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Let's have some more opinions or methods if possible as this another good one for the Index.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 04:02 pm
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Diesel
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I usually put a facia on 1/2" above the base board as some track comes to the edge and it makes it look neater , like the idea of perspex though :)



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 04:47 pm
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owen69
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i have a 3mm ply edge 20 mm high all round the edges were stock can come off the track,usually covered with brick paper.
:lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 06:00 pm
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mojo1
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I think it always gives a more finished look to have an edge where the baseboard does actually end and then you have the curtains below to hide all the junk we accumulate underneath. I always finish my board edges off with a wall, fixed to plywood.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 06:41 pm
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Perth Buddy
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Guys

Thanks for all the responses ..... I thought it was going to be a straight forward yes or no but knowing this forum there are always options and alternatives. The main problem area is the edge around the operating well as three other edges are against the wall and will not be seen and the outer edge which you see when you approach the layout will have a curtain or something to hide the garden equipment which is currently there (as per the photo in my layout thread)

Will give this some thought over the next few weeks and make a decision then.

You guys are unbelievable at times and I guess this is what makes this forum the place it is.

Thanks again

Happy Modelling

Matt

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 06:56 pm
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Robert
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Don't forget to let us know what you decide Matt.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 07:30 pm
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Lawrence
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Matt - put your backboards all around the perimeter at the same height (to maintain the continuity), and perspex around the inner edges of the operating well if you feel the need, thinking back to your track plan though I don't think you will need anything on the inside though.

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 08:03 pm
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Perth Buddy
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Planning to put the backboards around the perimeter all at the same height apart from the edge facing yo as you enter the garage as I think that might make it a little claustrophobic. Will try the full size first just in case it is OK.

Not sure about the perspex as I am thinking of having the edging match any scenery that will be at the side of the track. Will have to wait until the track is laid etc. before I get a feel for it

I appreciate that I might not need anything but it might just finish the tables off aesthically and not have you looking at bare timber and the edge of the 12mm MDF

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 Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 10:05 pm
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Sol
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The photo below is from my previous layout


on the left hand side, you can see perspex all the way along the side - this protects buildings but allows them to be seen.
You maybe able to see on the right hand side far end a smaller piece that protected that cattle dock.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2008 03:01 am
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Marty
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I had planned to have a front fascia all around the edge of the layout, contoured to the landform and deep enough to allow curtains to be hung below to hide the benchwork.

I've tested the concept on my diorama. Most easily seen in the photo below.


... and I'm probably going to have a low perspex "accident preventer" attached to the facsia too.

However, T doesn't like the curtains, says that they look messy, could I make the facsia board go all the way to the floor :shock:
I've seen full length fascia's on some mega US layouts and it looks good but can I do it around the curved edges of my Newcastle Emlyn layout.... I'm not so sure. More experimentation is required.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2008 03:09 am
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Sol
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Marty, if you use floor board planking ,vertically mounted , then I think you maybe able to go around a curved baseboard. It will mean of course that you will need a support on the floor to give an anchoring point as well.

Tell T that curtains are cheaper & easier to fit.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2008 03:37 am
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Marty
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Thanks Sol,
I'll give T the nod and then leave it to perculate. 8) :lol: :lol:
It will probably mean making a couple of short trial sections and the choosing the best.
The other option could be 4mm masonite curved to suit with a wood pattern laminate. I think that I've seen thin laminate that might not even need the masonite backing.



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