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Proctor's Barn (HO Scale) - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 01:19 am
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Wayne Williams
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Here are three pictures of the Proctor's Barn, taken just a few days ago. My grandson (Jeff) took them so I can do a scratchbuild of it. He likes getting the pictures of my progress. Guess it gives him something to get his mind off College and work.

The Barn was built back in the late 1880's, not real sure of the exact date. The farm house was built in 1885, so the Barn could not have been much later. The barn, back in the late 1950's burnt down and was rebuilt on most of it's original foundation. You can see in the Back View photo where they added on to the old stone footings.
Front View

End View

Back View


I have taken all the photos and converted them into a drawing that will be used to create the model. Here are two drawings that show how I intend to build this beast.


I do not get too involved in making a "Pretty" drawing. I just put down what I need to build the model.



There are a total of six sliding doors on this barn. I would like to make them all slide.

I am going to Submit this right now and do another post to show you all how this project is getting started.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 01:44 am
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Wayne Williams
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I have spent about six hours today getting the Barn started. I think the hardest part of any project is getting the first two parts bonded together. After that has happened the rest seems to scream out to get it done. Maybe that's because of all the planning I do, don't really know, but once I finally get started the project seems to take on a life of it's own.

I intend to build the barn on a piece of .080 plasticard. You can just see it at the upper left of this first photo. I chose that thickness because of the tubular structure design needs some good support to keep everything nice and square and plum.

I needed a fixture to help me assemble the tubular frame (1/8" x 1/4" rectangular styrene tube) so that it was nice and square. A simple block of oak with two pieces screwed on top makes a perfect jig to assemble the structure. These were just scraps I had laying around in the garage. Actually the piece that hangs over the edge worked out great for a handle. :roll:
The C-shaped frame shown here will set directly on the .080 sheet of styrene. The open side (left) is the front of the Barn.


Here is a close up of the joint detail, I decided every joint needed an inside angle for support, since the only surface that gets bonded is the raw end of the rectangular tube, adding that small piece of angle really helps keep the joint from moving around while I work with it.


This picture shows one half of the main floor of the barn. The main floor is the floor you walk onto from the back side of the barn. That floor is 8 feet above the .080 styrene floor mentioned above.


The main floor structure is now complete. It measures 4 7/8" x 6 7/8". Once it is good and dry I will begin assembling the vertical tubes between it and the bottom floor (top photo)


Well, there it is, the start of the Barn. Lots to do and no time to do it in! :roll: :roll: :roll:

Did I mention that this is in HO Scale? Maybe a moderator could put that in the title of this thread, so everyone would know.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 03:04 am
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MikeC
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A nice subject for scratchbuilding, with lots of interesting textures. Good progress already, too.

If you edit the first post you'll be able to add the scale there. I just did it to my diorama thread - good idea.
Mike

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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 09:14 am
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Petermac
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Looking good Wayne.

"Plastic engineering" is much in evidence. It'll be a great project to follow.

Petermac



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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 09:15 am
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Gwent Rail
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Looks like another WW masterclass is on the way :!:

That right angle guide is worth keeping, Wayne, it's a good guide to get all manner of jobs square.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 12:02 pm
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Perry
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Hurray! Here we go again! :D

At least there's no dome this time,so the build should be a bit simpler! :roll: :wink:

That's really interesting looking prototype, Wayne. It should be a lot of fun.

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 03:02 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Gwent Rail wrote:That right angle guide is worth keeping, Wayne, it's a good guide to get all manner of jobs square.
Jeff,
I have already thought of a change to the right angle guide, as you call it. It needs to have an outside corner also. The inside one works great, but when I had to place the inside supports within the floor I needed the outside corner. So I will be re-engineering it in the future.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 03:07 pm
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Wayne Williams
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MikeC wrote:A nice subject for scratchbuilding, with lots of interesting textures. Good progress already, too.

If you edit the first post you'll be able to add the scale there. I just did it to my diorama thread - good idea.
Mike


Thanks Mike, for some reason I didn't think I could edit the threads title. Never too old to learn, right? :shock: :roll:

Your comment "with lots of interesting textures", only you would notice that! Now since you noticed it, maybe you can lead me in the right direction on how to make acrylic paint peel in HO Scale? I obviously have lots of time before I need to make paint peel, but it never hurts to be thinking about it.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Mar 24th, 2008 07:56 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I have added the uprights that will space the main floor from the lower floor. This jig worked super for this type of work. All of the uprights are as vertical as they could be.

In this picture I have attached the lower floor structure to the main floor structure. This barn is so big compared to anything I have built so far. I feel like I am making mistakes as I go along because of it's size, but it keeps checking out to the drawing, so I just keep going. I am amazed how square this thing is, when I placed the two floor together they fit perfectly. I would have thought what with all of these pieces, something would have gone array.


Now the sides of the foundation have been added. They are from Plastruct (PS-73 HO Random Rock)


And a better view of the field stone sides.


I am up to 11 hours in this so far, and that is not counting the time it took to do the drawing. I have had two days of good progress, all I can smell is solvent!!!! Need a break for awhile, so I am going to play golf tomorrow and then we will see what Wednesday brings.

Wayne



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 Posted: Tue Mar 25th, 2008 06:22 am
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phill
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Looking great so far, waiting pationatly for the next episode, come on how much longer do i have to wait :D
Phill

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 Posted: Tue Mar 25th, 2008 10:03 am
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Petermac
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The stonework looks great Wayne. Really "toughens" the structure up.

Enjoy your day off on the golf course - no doubt solving plastic "engineering" problems at the 19th !!!!

Petermac



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 Posted: Tue Mar 25th, 2008 11:42 am
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Marty
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Glued to the screen mate (sigh)... keep it coming.

What a wonderful building to scratchbuild, heaps of character.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 25th, 2008 05:10 pm
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Paul Williams
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The stone wall looks good. Its better you found this Plasticard product than trying to use individual stones. It will still be a challenge to make the stone look like the Photo, however I am sure you will accomplish it.

Waiting for the next episode. :roll: :roll: :roll:

DAD (Paul W)

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 Posted: Tue Mar 25th, 2008 10:58 pm
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In the second picture down that end wall looks as if it has been rendered with concrete on top of what looks like timber ends laid one on top of the other.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 25th, 2008 11:11 pm
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MikeC
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Wayne you mentioned peeling paint. Well one way to do it would be to use water-based paint over a greasy surface - I suspect acrylic over enamel might do the job, but I haven't tried it [yet] That said, I'd have to think that paint that is actually peeling would look grossly over-scale and heavy-handed.
It might work better to use pastels - either underneath or on top of paint. Maybe both ways. It would be fun to experiment along those lines. I might give it a go.

Mike

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 Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 12:04 am
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owen69
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Wayne,talk about a stickler for detail,phew,i would be more than happy
to be able to just build the thing.
:wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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 Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 12:47 pm
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Wayne Williams
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owen69 wrote:Wayne,talk about a stickler for detail,phew,i would be more than happy
to be able to just build the thing.
:wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)


Owen, it really is not that difficult. It just takes a little patience and attention to detail. Once I started using "The Chopper ll", I was able to replicate multiple pieces exactly the same length. That helps beyond description.

MikeC,
There is a product that causes acrylics to "Crack", I saw it in the craft store a few weeks back. I have no idea if the "Cracks" would be to "Scale", but if you would try anything at your end I will go and purchase that and give it a try on my end. Maybe we can come up with a way to accomplish this. Would be real helpful for the forum too.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 12:53 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Robert wrote:In the second picture down that end wall looks as if it has been rendered with concrete on top of what looks like timber ends laid one on top of the other.

Not sure exactly what you are referring to Bob, but I will try and explain. If I don't cover your comment let me know. In the middle of the width of the Barn there are two windows that have long been broken out. They have been covered with wood slats to seal out the weather. At the far left corner there are what looks like rectangular wood "Ends", they are actually stones that were probably cut to that shape for the corner. Take a look at the first picture, they are the same shape there also. Hope this helps.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 01:00 pm
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MikeC
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Wayne - will you be using 'planked' styrene for the timbers, or will you be scribing your own?

Mike

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 Posted: Wed Mar 26th, 2008 01:38 pm
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owen69
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Wayne,the detail i was refering to was the flaky paint etc.
thanks for the reply anyway. :oops: :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: 8)

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