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Adhesives versus Plastic Welds - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 04:49 pm
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Passed Driver
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Hi All.  When after coming back into model Railways after forty odd years, I did consider kits but the adhesives always trips me up? At the time of writing, I am using “Revell Contacta “ Professional, but that has a tendency to clog up, I have found my own way of unblocking the spout. I have also tried “Plastic Weld” which didn’t have much remaining in the bottle, but I tried it, very hard to work with. I have been assured that it is the best way of saving money or getting a product that one cannot purchase. Can anyone please advise. Best wishes Kevin



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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 07:21 pm
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Barchester
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Sorry Kevin not sure if its the way I'm reading this, but I dont understand your question ? Are you asking which glue is best ? Or how to GET the best value glue ?  
Confused of Linlithgow !  :roll:

:thumbs

Cheers

Matt

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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 07:45 pm
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Hi Matt. Thank you for your reply. I am not quite sure myself? Partly both , I have used both before with some success, but of the four kits that I am working on the first one (part built) is going together better, which makes me wonder if I should “ stick with the rexell or buy some more of the plastic weld online. While I am here the kits , I am working on are now sold under the name of Dapol (Airfix) and some components are warped slightly, one of which is on the radiator to get warm after which I will endeavour to attach it to a block, hoping to get it flat. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 08:09 pm
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Longchap
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The question of which glue for plastic kits was discussed on the topic, below, specifically post 2, but it's worth reading the topic through to the end, as it contains some great advice which you’ll need Kevin, in completing your kits.

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=16186&forum_id=150
 
Regarding straightening warped plastic parts, I would never put them on the radiator, as they can melt! I recently had a similar issue with a cattle dock and solved it through full immersion baptism and I quote:
 

''The basic construction (of the cattle dock base) was built, but in my haste, I ignored one of my cardinal rules and built it on the cutting mat, rather than on the glass plate to ensure all would be square. Fortunately I have no photograph to embarrass me further than necessary, but it rocked rather alarmingly when sat on the level baseboard, so out came the glass plate, as I immersed the dock in almost boiling water for a few minutes, before it sat overnight on the glass with several books weighing it down as it cooled.

All fine and level the next morning and a trial fit in the final position meant I could position the track accordingly and the use of curved track laying profiles resulted in a pleasing curve from running line to cattle dock.''

Hope this helps,
 
Bill



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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 08:14 pm
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Petermac
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In my experience Kevin, the MEK type glues, such as plastic weld, are much easier to work with and stick (weld) really well.  Quick and clean.  However, they need surfaces to be clean, i.e. grease and dust free, and tight fitting because the glue (solvent) is drawn into the joint by capillary action.
Joints which don't fit quite so tightly are better glued using a thicker solvent such as styrene cement or even the Revell type solvent which, as you've no doubt noticed, are thicker than the plastic weld types.

Warped mouldings need straightening before attempting to glue or the gap in the assembled unit filled with modelling putty or similar once cured.  Glues are not intended to be used as gap-fillers !



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 Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 10:46 pm
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Barchester
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Sounds like BOTH is the answer then Kevin   horses for courses and all that.  Maybe have a think about anything you might need and see if you can put together a small order from somewhere. I think Hobbycraft deliver so that might be worth a look although not sure if they have a minimum order or not ?
Cheers

Matt

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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2021 11:19 am
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georgejacksongenius
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Kevin,is the Revell type you're referring to the one with the long thin hollow metal tube sticking out of it?I unblock mine with a spare piece of n-gauge loco handrail that does a cracking job! I like the control the narrow tube gives with application.Whenever I've used the classic "toothpaste tube" version of poly cement,I manage to get it all over the place!
Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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 Posted: Fri Feb 19th, 2021 12:18 pm
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Hi John B    I have sent you a private message on my dodgy remedy. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Sun Feb 21st, 2021 04:56 pm
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Haviung pulled the tube out with pliers I use a BIC lighter to heat the tube until it goes pop and burns.


I als keep a piece of brass wire stripped from a length
of unravelled picture hanging wire in the tube instead of the plastic cap.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 21st, 2021 05:35 pm
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Hello Douglas.  I actually follow a similar method, but I didn’t want to encourage junior members. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Sun Feb 21st, 2021 05:50 pm
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Barchester
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Quite right Kevin, best NOT to encourage me to set fire to things so they go pop, according to SWMBO I need NO further encouragement   :twisted:

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 Posted: Sun Feb 21st, 2021 05:55 pm
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Longchap
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I know the feeling Matt, but all us boys are young at heart and usually like to play with fire!

Be goodish chaps,

Bill



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 Posted: Sun Feb 21st, 2021 06:05 pm
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Hi Matt.  Thank you for your reply, I am getting sillier as I get older. Fingers crossed. Best wishes Kevin



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