| You are here: Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Kit Bashing > Adhesives versus Plastic Welds | To bottom of page |
| Video Archive | Recent Topics |
|---|
|
|
||||||
| ||||||
| Moderated by: Spurno |
|
|||||||||
| Adhesives versus Plastic Welds - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
| Author | Post | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ||||||||||
|
Passed Driver Full Member 
My photos:
|
Hi All. When after coming back into model Railways after forty odd years, I did consider kits but the adhesives always trips me up? At the time of writing, I am using “Revell Contacta “ Professional, but that has a tendency to clog up, I have found my own way of unblocking the spout. I have also tried “Plastic Weld” which didn’t have much remaining in the bottle, but I tried it, very hard to work with. I have been assured that it is the best way of saving money or getting a product that one cannot purchase. Can anyone please advise. Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Barchester Administrator 
My photos:
|
Sorry Kevin not sure if its the way I'm reading this, but I dont understand your question ? Are you asking which glue is best ? Or how to GET the best value glue ? Confused of Linlithgow !   Cheers Matt |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Passed Driver Full Member
My photos:
|
Hi Matt. Thank you for your reply. I am not quite sure myself? Partly both , I have used both before with some success, but of the four kits that I am working on the first one (part built) is going together better, which makes me wonder if I should “ stick with the rexell or buy some more of the plastic weld online. While I am here the kits , I am working on are now sold under the name of Dapol (Airfix) and some components are warped slightly, one of which is on the radiator to get warm after which I will endeavour to attach it to a block, hoping to get it flat. Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Longchap Full Member 
My photos:
|
The question of which glue for plastic kits was discussed on the topic, below, specifically post 2, but it's worth reading the topic through to the end, as it contains some great advice which you’ll need Kevin, in completing your kits. http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=16186&forum_id=150 Regarding straightening warped plastic parts, I would never put them on the radiator, as they can melt! I recently had a similar issue with a cattle dock and solved it through full immersion baptism and I quote: ''The basic construction (of the cattle dock base) was built, but in my haste, I ignored one of my cardinal rules and built it on the cutting mat, rather than on the glass plate to ensure all would be square. Fortunately I have no photograph to embarrass me further than necessary, but it rocked rather alarmingly when sat on the level baseboard, so out came the glass plate, as I immersed the dock in almost boiling water for a few minutes, before it sat overnight on the glass with several books weighing it down as it cooled. All fine and level the next morning and a trial fit in the final position meant I could position the track accordingly and the use of curved track laying profiles resulted in a pleasing curve from running line to cattle dock.'' Hope this helps, Bill ____________________ At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born  |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Petermac Moderator 
My photos:
|
In my experience Kevin, the MEK type glues, such as plastic weld, are much easier to work with and stick (weld) really well. Quick and clean. However, they need surfaces to be clean, i.e. grease and dust free, and tight fitting because the glue (solvent) is drawn into the joint by capillary action. Joints which don't fit quite so tightly are better glued using a thicker solvent such as styrene cement or even the Revell type solvent which, as you've no doubt noticed, are thicker than the plastic weld types. Warped mouldings need straightening before attempting to glue or the gap in the assembled unit filled with modelling putty or similar once cured. Glues are not intended to be used as gap-fillers ! ____________________ 'Petermac |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Barchester Administrator
My photos:
|
Sounds like BOTH is the answer then Kevin horses for courses and all that. Maybe have a think about anything you might need and see if you can put together a small order from somewhere. I think Hobbycraft deliver so that might be worth a look although not sure if they have a minimum order or not ? Cheers Matt |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
georgejacksongenius Kettle Watcher 
My photos:
|
Kevin,is the Revell type you're referring to the one with the long thin hollow metal tube sticking out of it?I unblock mine with a spare piece of n-gauge loco handrail that does a cracking job! I like the control the narrow tube gives with application.Whenever I've used the classic "toothpaste tube" version of poly cement,I manage to get it all over the place! Cheers,John.B. |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Passed Driver Full Member
My photos:
|
Hi John B I have sent you a private message on my dodgy remedy. Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Chubber Casseroled Badger 
My photos:
|
Haviung pulled the tube out with pliers I use a BIC lighter to heat the tube until it goes pop and burns. I als keep a piece of brass wire stripped from a length of unravelled picture hanging wire in the tube instead of the plastic cap. ____________________ 'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Passed Driver Full Member
My photos:
|
Hello Douglas. I actually follow a similar method, but I didn’t want to encourage junior members. Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Barchester Administrator
My photos:
|
Quite right Kevin, best NOT to encourage me to set fire to things so they go pop, according to SWMBO I need NO further encouragement 
|
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Longchap Full Member
My photos:
|
I know the feeling Matt, but all us boys are young at heart and usually like to play with fire! Be goodish chaps, Bill ____________________ At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
|
Passed Driver Full Member
My photos:
|
Hi Matt. Thank you for your reply, I am getting sillier as I get older. Fingers crossed. Best wishes Kevin
____________________ Staying on the thread Kevin. |
|||||||||
| ||||||||||
| This is topic ID = 16625 Current time is 10:52 am |
| You are here: Your Model Railway Club > More Practical Help > Kit Bashing > Adhesives versus Plastic Welds | |||
|
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin. Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text, click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above. To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below. To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below. |
|
||
|
Back to top of page | ||
| |||
| Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster. | |||
| All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted. |
| Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission. |
| The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason. © 2008 |
| Recent Topics | Back to top of page | |
|
Powered by Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams. |
||