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Twobolt
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Lockdown pushed me into another loco kit build. 
 Back in 2008 my first O gauge kit build was this Springside all whitemetal Prairie kit which I eventually sold on ebay as the white metal crossheads and pistons would never stand up to prolonged useage.






So, searching around during the early weeks of Lockdown for a replacement non-white metal Prairie kit led me to a Warren Shepard version which was the only one out of a potential three choices available to me at short notice.

This turned out to be somewhat of a challenge to build as the kit requires a fair bit of marking out by hand and then using a riveter on fairly thick brass etchings. Also, being very much a `kitchen table` modeller with a minimum of tools there was a fair amount of shaping and `rolling` of tank ends and boiler work.

A further `self imposed` challenge was preparing the kit for a sprung chassis using a set of early Slaters nylon hornblocks.


So, this is where I began my build sequence and also preparing the wheels by chemical blackening using Birchwood Casey products.



Then using the sprung hornblocks  as datum for accurately cutting out the chassis sides.



Then on to preparing all that is required to assemble the basic chassis structure using the coupling rods as jigs for accuracy.



Sadly, nylon does`nt solder too well and so the hornblocks are superglued in place using a fresh quality glue.



Warren Shepard kits are well known for  quality lost wax castings as shown by these front and rear bogie assemblies.

 An early challenge was shaping and soldering up the cylinder block unit.



Eventually a very strong chassis  takes shape..................................



Using the rods as datum for the axle position always assures a free running mechanism every time.



So, diverting on to the body build.  Warren provides about 25% of pre-etched riveting but the rest has to be done by the modeller.

Warren has produced printed paper rivet patterns that need to be glued to the back of the body sides and ends as riveting guides for you to use a riveter of your choice.

A major problem with this method  is that the paper plans do not accurately fit the body etchings so you willend up with rivet patterns in the wrong positions.

I found it much more effective by copying the plans by hand and marking out the rear of the etchings just like scratch building.

and it only took me one evening at the kitchen table.................


The kit has no slot and tab method of assembly so superstructure assembly has to be slow and steady using at least an 80watt soldering iron to cope with the substantially thick brass.

Warren supplies a great deal of photographic prototype references and a diagrammatical booklet to follow but no written instructions




There are rear bunker corner castings which I preferred to modify for my build and the next challenge is to form bends at both front and rear of the tank sides that will sit accurately into etched positions on the footplate section.




There is a very satisfying set of etchings for the inside of the cab.






After that it is the long slog of adding all the detailing







Until eventually you can return to the chassis build once again.



Blacken everything that moves and put it all together. I always use Slaters plunger pickups for which I marked out and pre-drilled the chassis.

Taking care with the wiring to avoid any electrical shorts. (ready for DCC)




Then eventually a fully running chassis turns up....




Then it`s on with the lid and of for a quick non-powered ( cos the trackwork` s got paint on ) push through the pointwork to make sure everything is good to go.



as you can see I did this before I blackened everything up....

Then  add the final bits ready for the paint shop.



Then into and out of the paint shop..........................................................................................................................



A good dose of quality etch primer.









Now waiting for number plates , sand pipes, weathering of motion.

But she does have working cab side sheets.


Mid 1930`s livery and condition.









Last edited on Tue Sep 1st, 2020 07:49 pm by Twobolt

BCDR
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Nice.

Nigel

georgejacksongenius
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Beautiful loco!!!
Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

Petermac
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Wow - that looks excellent John and a decent visible scale too to show off all that work.  You make it sound so easy .............................
Can you solder blackened brass OK or do you have to scrape back to pure brass first ?

Twobolt
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Thanks Peter,
No not possible to solder blackened brass without scraping first ,even with Bakers Fluid flux.



Any how, still awaiting arrival of the number plates, here is a final sound bite as she`s now ready to play with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baTUxIqUR9o

Petermac
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That's really good - I love them with sound.   :thumbs  Is that one of Paul Chetter's projects or a Digitrains generic ?  Whatever, it's very good.

Chubber
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Real miniature engineering. I'd be proud to achieve this standard of work!

Douglas

Ssamm
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Great work, with lots of patience I'm sure

Cheers
Evan


                 

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