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New member - Welcome to all new members - Welcome To Your Model Railway - New Members Area - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 01:34 pm
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streakypeak
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Joined: Sat Jun 29th, 2019
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Hello, I live in Derbyshire and have just joined this club, I am retired and 74 years old; having returned to railway modelling after a gap of some 60 years. I have mainly 1950's BR rolling stock and locos. Being well out of date (the subject, not me), my last layout was supported on a good framework and Celotex Highlight 1/2 inch thick; my new one is on a good framework and 12mm ply. I had two sheets left over from a home related project, otherwise I may have chosen 9mm. I have some items bought over the years for when I started another railway, probably the only example of forward planning that I have ever shown!Now comes my first question - what do members suggest as the best way to make a hole 28mm by 38mm in the baseboard to accommodate Peco point motors? 
My second question - what soldering iron wattage is recommended for making connections to the track and to the switches in the (as yet unmade) control panel.
I think that those questions will do for now, I do not want to appear pushy!
Thanking you in anticipation.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 01:59 pm
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Briperran
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Re the 28x 38 hole most people have a power jigsaw so 2 holes in opposing corners big enough to accept blade then jigsaw to rectangle shape. If you have a multi power tool vibrating one a straight blade will cut the shape out.
If no power tools 2 holes in corners use a padsaw or a very coarse hacksaw blade.

Iron a 25 watt will cover most basic things

Brian



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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 04:22 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Iain,

Welcome to the club.

Holes and jigsaw with fine blade for ply or router with plunger bit and template.

30 w for rails, 20 for switches,  15-45 variable iron. 

Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 04:51 pm
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Headmaster
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Hello and welcome to the club.

No additional advice on the questions you have asked, but I use a temperature controlled iron - not one of those base stations, but still temperature controlled which has certainly helped me to learn the dark art.

Look forward to seeing your progress - we have a lot of returning modellers here!

Regards

Michael




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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 05:06 pm
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Barry Miltenburg
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Hi Streaky

Welcome to the club from a very sunny London and another BR 1950/60's modeller.  Nice part of the World Buxton!!

Agree with whats been said about both holes and soldering.  I switched to SEEP motors a couple of years ago and now only need a 8mm hole under the operating pin.  I found that the size of the PECO point motor holes started to get silly - you need a good 5mm all around to cope with the wiring. I used to use a multi-tool as Brian suggested - much more control and easier that a jigsaw IMHO.

Look forward to some pics of progress

Barry

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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 07:44 pm
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jcm@gwr
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Hello Iain,

Welcome to the club.
Nothing to add to the above!

Jeff



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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 09:35 pm
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streakypeak
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Thank you for all of your replies, drilled holes and jigsaw it is, and the  soldering iron details have been noted.

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 Posted: Sun Jun 30th, 2019 07:09 am
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Spurno
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Hi Iain and welcome to the club.Good advice given already.Good luck with your project.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 30th, 2019 10:12 am
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Longchap
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Hello an welcome to the forum Iain,

You have some interesting catching up to do as you return to the hobby after such a break, but as you've already found, good advice is always at the ready here.

You'll see some great advancement with RTR stock, which DCC (digital) control technology offers some useful options over DC (analogue).

So pull up a comfy chair and take a look around and let us know more about your plans as they develop.

Best,

Bill




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 Posted: Fri Jul 5th, 2019 09:09 pm
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Chubber
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Hullo, Iain,

I back up what Brian has already said re a 'Multi-tool'. After nearly 50 years of wood-wrestling I considered that every woodworking device ever needed had already been invented ...well apart from a portable router, er, and a bench morticer, but now we are deffo talking 'Big Boys Toys'!

You don't need a posh one, or a cordeless one, a simple Draper model such as [ Draper 20987 230V Oscillating Multi-Tool] will do all you will ever need. One caveat, they are sold with a pitiful selection of less than brilliant blades, so buy a decent square plunge wood cutter about 1" wide, a semi-circular medium tooth wood cutter for entering and continuing longer cuts, and a dedicated metal cutting blade with a slight curve. These will see you through just about anything you need to do.

As an anti-gadget woodworker of the old school this is one tool I wish I had by me years ago.

Good luck, and remember we have about a trillion years of experience between us on YMR, you are by no means in the upper echelon of oldies here.....Sol still uses a paraffin powered soldering iron...

Poop-poop,

Douglas



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 Posted: Sat Jul 6th, 2019 08:18 pm
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TeaselBay
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Just wanted to say welcome. I’ll leave all the experts to answer the questions. I’ve no idea, I just use trial and error most the time and hope for the best! Haha



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 Posted: Mon Jul 8th, 2019 12:37 pm
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Campaman
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As Doug (Chubber) has said the vibrating multi tools are really useful.

I got one when I was fitting my new kitchen and it now gets used far more than any of my other cutting or sanding/scraping/grinding tools.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 10th, 2019 11:59 am
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Piran
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Welcome to the club from Cornwall,good advice already given.Piran

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 Posted: Wed Jul 10th, 2019 03:44 pm
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Petermac
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Welcome to the mad house Iain.

More often than not, we all learn from questions others ask on here.  I, unlike Doug, am no master woodworker but have always used the "hole in 2 opposite corners and jigsaw" to make cutouts in sheet material.  From what others have said, it seems I ought to be using my multi-tool instead.  I never thought of that.

Having said all that, I'd stronlgy advise you to go for either SEEP motors or, better still, Tortoise, Cobalt or servos.  None of those need a large cut-out - just a drilled hole for the operating wire to access the moving tie on the point.

Doug - what do you mean by a "portable router" ?  I thought they were all portable until you bolted one to a router  table......................



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