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DCC Tutorials Getting you started - DCC - Tutorials - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2018 09:10 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Kevin,

RIP track - repair in place. 

Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2018 09:35 pm
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Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. I have edited my previous message, It didn’t make it clear what I was trying to say.What I meant was “ Rip Up and Relay anew “ . Incidently there is a YouTube video, out there, on Programming Locos where the Modeller has a rip track, quite different to what I meant.  Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 07:29 am
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Hi Ron.  A further reply regarding the NCE Auto switch, having just got out of bed , which means I am fully awake, and now that I have read about this device .Which does make more sense to considering the fact about “ only two wires “ coming from the Powercab. But where does that leave me with the new circuit that you very kindly recommended to me? Can I wire the auto switch in okay.
Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 11:04 am
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As I know nothing about the Auto switch, only what I have read on the NCE DCC forum, I guess it replaces the manual switch & wiring I suggested.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 11:22 am
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Hi Ron. Thank you. But that leaves me “ up a gum tree “ ? Looks like I had better start again, better to be safe than sorry, unless I have some practice at DCC ing the Hornby Pugs first?  Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 02:14 pm
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Hi Kevin,

The NCE autoswitch is wired to the main track and program track. Two wires in, 4 out. If it detects a program track signal it cuts power to the main track. Vice versa. Basically an automated DPDT switch to protect against programming on the main when using the program track.

Never used one. Although it could be useful as a dead end program track on a siding. A DPDT switch would be a lot cheaper.

Nigel



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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 04:31 pm
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Hi Nigel. Thank you. I went for the cheaper option, as per YouTube recommendation. Even NCE tell you of that option in the manual.  I will have to think about my options.  Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 11:36 pm
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I opened up the last Terrier I converted to DCC to get a couple of photos. Here is Boxhill, an original Dapol model, with its TCS Z2 decoder sitting neatly on top of the motor. Note I have used a couple of blobs of Blu-tack to keep the wires out of the way to ease refitting of the body. Sorry the first photo is a little fuzzy, but it still shows clearly how the decoder sits.


Terrier Decoder Fitting - 1 by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr


Terrier Decoder Fitting - 2 by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr


Lion sitting behind the Terrier has nothing to do with this topic; it is sitting there because I am about to install a Soundtraxx Econami UK diesel sound decoder and speaker in it.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2018 12:33 am
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Kevin, a Terrier with sound

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=3832&forum_id=52



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 Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2018 06:46 am
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Hi Jeff.  Thank you for your reply. The photo of your workmanship looks okay to me. But as I stated previously being as this would be my first conversion, maybe I had better try a Pug first.  Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2018 06:56 am
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Hi Ron. Thank the very much. I will get around to converting my Pug, even if it takes a   “ New Years Resolution “ ?I say “ my Pug “ what I really meant was PUGS, I have got so many. By the way have you seen the L & Y Pug with sound? It really looks an excellent job, and it is weathered too. There is a video of it on YMRC. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2018 11:18 am
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Kevin i would agree do a pug first just to get the hang of it.
If after doing that you still feel uncomfortable about fitting decoders im sure your local model shop offer a chip fitting service perhaps costing £10-15 a loco that way you will not be getting sleepless nights worrying about fitting decoders.


Brian



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 Posted: Fri Nov 9th, 2018 11:43 am
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Hi Brian. Thank you very much, sound advice. But I will have a go. Best wishes Kevin 



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