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Trackwork - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 09:45 pm
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Sol
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Kevin, this is what I had at one stage for my lift up, cut with a  dremel type using the long flexible power drive cable.
track was pinned & glued  prior to cutting





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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 10:49 pm
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Hi Ron. Thank you for you reply. When I did my Joint it was like your setup with a fishplate, and it was only glued down. The length of rail from the gap to the fishplate went its own way? And failed because of the Peco chairs??Next time i am going to cheat??? By installing the first length of track, and soldering it down fingers crossed. Offering up the adjacent track, close to the edge and carefully filling it down. I can’t help thinking if I had built my own with soldered sleepers or had planned to have a joint in the first instance I wouldn’t have this problem. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2018 09:17 am
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Crompton 33 wrote: I use Copper clad solderd on the end of the rail , Pin to baseboard cut the copper only in the middle. Drill small hole in baseboard for wire. solder wire to copper clad each side of track. Then i use computer D connector under the layout.Hi Crompton 33.  Very good advice,but, how do you cut through the rails? I am doing a similar job, I soldered the rails to copper clad and the dummy run worked fine. When it was on the baseboard it was a different story. I tried cutting the track with a razor saw and they came away from the copper clad, likewise using a junior hacksaw. I was considering a Dremel, but have been advised against it, as they can be dangerous? and I would not want to visit A&E too often .   Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2018 11:55 am
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You asked this same question just the other day Kevin in your own thread and received several responses, the 14th post I think, gives the same response as Trevor's above. 

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=15786&forum_id=6&page=1

There are only so many methods of cutting rail to choose from (saw, snippers or rotary) and if the track is already laid, you absolutely must support it when using a saw, as the rail will easily become separated, as you know from your own experience. 

A hand saw is perfectly adequate, provided it has a good quality blade and in good condition. Try a new blade, but not one from the pound shop, as quality really counts with hacksaw blades when you need a precision cut. 

You could also consider cutting the rail before laying the track and get a perfect cut, neatly filed to suit your gap.

The secret isn't so much which tool to use, but trying to find what suits you the best and then you will get better at it the more times you do it. Good luck,

Bill




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 Posted: Tue Oct 16th, 2018 01:32 pm
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Hi Bill.  Thank you. I took your advice, sorted out a piece of wood, and cut two grooves with a fine saw to fit over the rails, i visited my local “ Screwfix “ and purchased some junior hacksaw blades at 32 tpi, which I thought should be fine enough.With my block of wood as suggested by your good self and my junior hacksaw fitted with a brand new blade, I proceeded to cut, very slowly, and “ Whamo “ “ Kapow “. That made a right mess of that. Back to the drawing board.    Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Wed Oct 17th, 2018 11:41 am
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Passed Driver wrote: Hi Bill.  Thank you. I took your advice,... “ and purchased some junior hacksaw blades at 32 tpi, which I thought should be fine enough...

Hello Kevin,

32 TPI is way too few teeth for N scale rail and I would not be happy using it for Code 100 in HO or On30 either. Surely there is a shop you can get a Razor Saw such as a Zona or Atlas from somewhere near you?   Atlas saws are between 150-400 TPI.  Zona ones come in various sizes as well but the higher the number of teeth, the easier it will be to cut.  Just do not try to cut steel with it as it will kill the blade, particularly with the Atlas saw!

Cheers

Trevor 





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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 03:06 pm
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Kevin, your track cutting question and answers moved to here

Cheers


Matt

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 Posted: Mon Oct 29th, 2018 07:10 pm
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Hi Nigel.   Following your advice, I purchased some #400 grit paper, I had both turpentine and meths already. Today I cleaned up the copper clad and rails then I soldered them together. I knew that somewhere I had the piercing saw blades , in a safe place but I didn’t find them until I purchased another set. Which leads me to another question, the teeth are so small I cannot see which way they are pointing, even running a blade acrylic ones fingers. Both ways they feel the same annoying little prickles . Please advise. Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2018 10:41 am
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H Bill.  Another reply. After successfully cutting the track with a suggestion from Nigel, on soldering,  across the baseboard joint with a Razor Saw and Chubbers idea of a block of wood, with two grooves, to hold down the track. I have two tracks across the joint, but, one of the “rails “ of one of the tracks is now uneven, strangely enough the other rail is okay. My next job is to sort it out, but I don’t want to rip it up and start again, instead, if possible I would prefer to pack the rail “Bodge “with something, but what??? Or would it be better to bite the bullet, and do a proper job.Any advice accepted. Best wishes Kevin 



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