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Wiring a Three way point - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 01:36 pm
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Hi All.  I was a bit hesitant about the  purchase of a Peco Electrofrog Code 75 Three way Point? I had read so much about wiring them that I was put off by  the thought. Well anyway I bit the bullet, and now I am awaiting delivery.Before it arrives would some kind soul give me the low down on the job in hand, bearing in mind that I would rather operate this point by “Wire in Tube “ as with my othe points. Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 03:30 pm
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Hi Kevin,
This is not the symmetrical three-way. WIT is fine, but you need 2 three-way switches.

Regards,

Nigel



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 Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 03:51 pm
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Hi Nigel.  Thank you.no it is the regular” straight. “three way switches I am not certain what you mean. Usually I use DPDT Slide switches that change the polarity , at the same they change the points.  Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 05:09 pm
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Hi Kevin,
If in doubt read the instructions (mine are for the symmetrical). Your approach might have issues for a three-way, although I haven't looked it (and will be doing it differently anyway). As usual, you will probably need jumpers between rails. 

Nigel

Edit: Consider having a WIT controlled mechanical switch mechanism with built in contacts. The Blue Point Turnout Controller and associated hardware should have what you need. Available from NG Trains in the UK.



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 Posted: Fri Sep 7th, 2018 05:34 pm
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Hi Nigel.  I only ordered the three way point today 7th September . So it is wait and see , most likely Monday.Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 12:33 pm
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Hi. Nigel. The three way “Asymmetric” point / turnout has arrived, I got it wrong? The man from Peco “ He say” said the one that I was talking about was code 100 . I had asked about the required switches as per instructions, and when I said that I don’t use point motors “, and could I use DPDT Switches instead of those in the instructions, he didn’t know what I meant, :???: and I couldn’t get through to him,  My question is, “ Is wiring a three way point / turnout as straightforward as two straight / regular points??    Best wishes Kevin 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 01:35 pm
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The 3-way code 75 is actually just two simple points partially overlaid on each other.  So you can operate each turnout independently, unlike a true 3-way such as the code 100. There are 3 frogs but 2 of these are linked and switched together, so you will need one DPDT switch for each turnout. 

You'll find it's all very clear in the instructions.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 02:01 pm
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Hi Robert.  Thank you for your reply . That’s  the way that I expected to wire it, “the man from Peco” couldn’t understand my point of view. Because I have my issues with point motors I prefer not use them . And instead employ WIT.             Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 03:34 pm
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What I forgot to mention is that it's vital to bond the 3 rails together on each side underneath with a track feed (or DCC dropper if you are using DCC). It's pretty obvious where to place the wire as Peco have thoughtfully already cut the webbing for you.  If you don't, you'll keep finding engines stalling as the point blades touching the stock rail are only way of passing current through to the fixed rails in the centre. 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 04:05 pm
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Hi Robert    Thank you again . For DCC on regular points one has to solder a wire from the outer rail to the inner rail from both sides and cut the centre out , and the two wires underneath. Is it the same for the asymmetric point??Best wishes.  Kevin



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 04:44 pm
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No it's much simpler.  Nothing to cut - just solder a dropper across the 3 rails on each side. Once you get the point and look underneath it's pretty obvious. Really don't understand why it's not factory-fitted. 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 06:56 pm
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Hi Robert.  Thank you again.  You have been really patient with me? Up until this very minute, I was on the “verge of returning the point,” and I hadn’t even taken it out of the packing. “ no it’s much simpler “? you say but two frogs and three wires , maybe I will get my head aroun it?  No I am much simpler, not the point.
Factory fitted? No Peco probably want to get every 1d. out of you. Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2018 08:56 pm
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3 frogs, 3 wires, but two of the wires you join together.  See the diagram on the instructions.  ;-)



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2018 02:22 pm
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Hi Nigel.  I am weighing up the pros and cons of buying and fitting two point motors , and all that entails from a 9volt power supply the additional switches and all the bits and bobs, right down to the finished article . Versus the straightforward wire in tube, this stems from the various reports of Modellers like me who ars confused with the job in hand.  Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2018 04:58 pm
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Kevin,Not sure which point motors you are thinking of using, but most solenoid types (and the CDU's) need about
16v ac, which why most controllers have that extra output on the back.
By the sounds of it, your 9v will probably be dc, and not powerful enough.
If you are going with slow motion, or even servo type, I still think 9v is not up to the job, but I'm happy to be
corrected by those in the know.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2018 07:58 pm
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9v DC is the ideal voltage for slow-motion motors such as Tortoise and Cobalt.  They use very little current too - Tortoise uses about 16ma when stalled and 4ma when changing. 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2018 08:00 pm
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Hi Jeff.  Thank you for your reply. I don’t know either, but, today I went on line looking for “Peco asymettric three way point, wiring” , and saw a video showing a demonstration by DCC Concepts and Gaugemaster, and whatever point motors they were using were wired to a 9volt battery on a temporary basis. Best wishes. Kevin



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2018 08:12 pm
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Hi Robert   Thank you. The motor types that you mention, how reliable are they? 50 odd years ago, my favourite point motors were made by Hammant and Morgan. But upon my return to model railways, when someone mentioned the snap action of points I thought that I would give WIT a go , plus if I thought it was necessary , I could remove the spring, and now my points really creep across.   Best wishes. Kevin.         PS Finger Power



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 Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2018 09:06 pm
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I use the Circuitron Tortoise - 65 at the last count. They have been out a long time and are extremely reliable - in fact the most reliable you can get. They have two built-in DPDT switches so no problem with your frog polarity. If you use them, then best to remove the Peco tie-bar spring - otherwise the change-over won't be slow-motion!



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 Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2018 10:51 pm
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Hi Robert     I am really sorry for going on with this subject, but, it has just hit me? How much width of baseboard do I require for the three way asymmetric point in double o gauge for three sidings???   Kevin



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