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Scenery getting you started - Scenery - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2018 08:12 am
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The Q
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BCDR wrote: The Q wrote: just A note, I've just updated my first post as I managed to mix 1/3 water with 2/3 rd water. It now says 1/3 pva with 2/3 water... Hi Kevin,



Dangerous waters here. PVA starts to behave rather funny when diluted too far. Loss of tensile strength for one. The recommended dilution for woodworking is 95:5 PVA:water v/v. Most applications of PVA in this hobby do not call for a lot of tensile strength, my own experience is that 75% PVA is around the limit for good adhesion. Gluing bits of styrene needs the neat stuff, and works best if the surface is roughed up a bit with some sand paper.



Big problem with styrene-based foams is that decent compression during the tack stage is normally not possible. Best approach is to glue the flat piece, weight it down, then cut/carve when attached.



For what you are doing a chunk of balsa would probably do just as well. If the styrene you have is the light, white material found in packing that compresses between thumb and finger I would bin it. You need the pink/blue/green one meant for insulation.



Nigel





If you note back to the original post that mixture of water to PVA is for mixing with the pollfilla, it as I state, creates a nice hard shell of pollyfilla not a crumbly surface.
For gluing pollystrene to the baseboard I use the PVA straight...



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 Posted: Sun Jul 1st, 2018 12:41 am
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BCDR
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Hi Q,

Missed that one. Must try it. As I said, pva and styrene foam works best with a rough surface and neat glue, plus some compression. Best to use the correct adhesive for hd closed cell foam.

Nigel



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