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Painting Slaters plasticard - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 12:48 am
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Ssamm
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Hi
My latest project is a small humpback bridge with a card shell and platicard stone sheets on the outside/

I am happy with the construction - by my standards. I particularly found the plasticard is very easy to work with. Even cutting a single course was done without too much trouble. Here is a photo of progress to date. The grey colour comes from the primer/undercoat I sprayed over the sheets.



But I have run into a problem with painting.

I am using a Humbrol Enamel as the base coat. I am finding the paint often fills the grout courses with the result that the stonework looses its definition. If I brush out the paint the coverage is very thin. And becomes transparent.

The enamel paint seems to be quite thick. So I was thinking I could  try their acrylic paints.

I would appreciate any tips you might like to share.

Cheers
Evan

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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 03:40 am
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BCDR
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Hi Evan,

What color is the intended stone? It helps to get as close as possible with the primer - grey for granite, light grey for dark limestone, white for light limestone, red oxide for sand/iron stone.

Nigel



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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 07:33 am
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Longchap
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Hi Evan,

This is a classic example of finding what works best for you personally, but after a base coat, I usually brush on an overall diluted grout colour and wipe off the excess with kitchen tissue. Then a varied colour mix of stone sparingly is applied with an almost dry sponge and brush, slowly building up the colour until satisfactory.

You can vary the colour mix as desired and redo parts as desired.

Have fun and let us know how you get on.

Bon courage,

Bill




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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 09:34 am
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Dorsetmike
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I used emulsion match pots applied before cutting out, with a 4" roller for this terrace, no primer, dove grey and pebble mixed, I suspect handling when assembling may have rubbed off some of the emulsion to give the effect of varying colour stones. (shame about the roof, still experimenting for a better tile effect)




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 Posted: Thu May 31st, 2018 01:53 pm
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Bunkerbarge
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Enamel straight from the tin can easily be too thick and thinning a lot will loose opacity.  Acrylics have better coverage for a given thickness but are a bit of a challenge when painted by brush onto a large area when the fast drying times can lead to joint lines being created and increased thickness on overlaps.

For such a project I would use a rattle can as a primer, either a Halfords grey, red or white depending on the top coat or a rattle can primer from such as Tamiya or even Railmatch.

Over the top of that you can then apply washes for the mortar, paint on and wipe off the top with a damp wide brush after it has dried, and further weathering effects for grime and limescale etc. from washes and pigments.

If you have a bit of the plasticard left over I would do some experimenting with that before having a go on the model.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2018 06:58 am
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Ssamm
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Thanks for the tips. Time to do some experimenting.

Nigel, the stone will be a sandstone colour.

Evan

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