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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 07:56 pm
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Petermac
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It seems you have your fair share of battles to win Trevor - chin up !!!

It's all starting to look very "railway like" so you are indeed making decent progress.


I do like your clever method of speed checking - I've made a note of it - "Trevor's Speedo" ..........................interestingly, if you Google "speedo" you get something not unlike yourself.............. :hmm :cheers



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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 11:57 pm
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xdford
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Hello Peter,
Well I should have something that resembles that... actually it is a very loose resemblance ... after the rehab which has also involved a bit of gym work (exercise bike, leg press leg curl, rowing machine, steps and weight lift) but I will never get that far.  I am wtend to abbreviorking on top and bottom... no point in looking like Charles Atlas from the waist down and Mr Puniverse from the waist up.  

As you probably know, we antipodeans tend to abbreviate  so speedometer becomes speedo, afternoon becomes arvo, tachometer becomes tacho etc. Not every word gets so abbreviated and yes we do speak English... well kinda!!!

Glad the speed reading seems to be useful.  A diagram will follow soon!

Regards  

Trevor

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 Posted: Thu Mar 14th, 2019 11:18 pm
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xdford
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Hello All,
There was apparently a little confusion about the spacing of the poles for the speed reading so I have made another diagram which hopefully shows that the position of the poles is level with the 10 inch track centres but not evenly spaced so the geometric look with the poles is avoided.  

While my diagram does not show it, I have mixtures of Radius 3, 4 and 5 curved set track on the outer curves which followed where I replaced the flex track that had perished at critical spaces  such as joiners etc after a number of years and most people are hard pressed to see the difference.

Anyway, here is a clarifying diagram and hope it makes sense with the red dots being the 10 inch spacing and there blue dots representing the position of the poles at an apparently regular but uneven spacing,



Cheers from Australia

Trevor

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 Posted: Wed Jul 31st, 2019 11:57 pm
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xdford
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Hello All,
A bit of progress but nothing you can strictly see as such.  

As many of you know, I had both my knees replaced over 12 months ago. Although I can move about very well in general (my knees don't get sore any more funnily enough), I had a phobia for want of a better term getting under the layout given that I had to be rescued from exercising on the floor once and it was a bit debilitating at the time.  

However I had to unhinge my control panel as one of the control blocks developed a fault - I thought that the switch had died but it was a solder joint -  so I bit the bullet and put in extra switches where I needed to store 2 locos on the same turntable roads and the railcar storage road.  

A quick cut with a razor saw on one rail and a wire feed and the section was isolated.  Feeding the wire through however was a different matter as I had to get under the layout to be able to get the wires in place.  

My turntable has 10 roads of which 4 (Roads 6, 7, 8 and 9) hold two powered locomotives. Two other roads (4 and 5) are long enough but they hold a powered and dummy loco so they do not need electrical separation.  

I was given a 4 wire network cable with a red white blue and black wire so after feeding the wire through, Roads 6 to 9 were given the wires in alphabetical order (Black, Blue, Red and White) to make possible fault finding if necessary later.  

I need to slightly lengthen two of the sidings to give a better level of clearance when driving locos out. This involves a little bit of "earth moving" with the hill spur needing to be cleared and the track lengthened, so I have yet to actually connect roads 7, 8 and 9 but Road 6 and the railcar siding are working well and saves an unrealistic runaway or having to hold a loco at an angle until it is on the table.

Of course this problem would not exist if I ran with DCC -  but I still think my throttles are better than I have seen from DCC's offerings, let alone the expense involved.

What it has given me is confidence to tackle reconnecting the other wiring for the signals and yard lights as I now know I can get under the layout and still get back out and stand up... at 6' 5" under normal circumstances is hard enough!  

PIctures will follow and hope you see some degree of progress!

Regards from Australia

Trevor

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 Posted: Thu Aug 1st, 2019 02:01 am
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Sol
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xdford wrote: Hello All,

Of course this problem would not exist if I ran with DCC -  but I still think my throttles are better than I have seen from DCC's offerings, let alone the expense involved.



Trevor

Trevor. yes there are some good DC controllers which match DCC controllers & yes are cheaper then DCC
BUT I would not like to operate on my layout under DC with upto 4 trains on the move in my main station at the same time with DC in having to switch track sections to controllers as the locos move around the station.

Saying all of that, if I was Lone Ranger in being the only operator on the D&S ( or a maximum of two sets of hands) , I would have stayed with DC.



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 Posted: Thu Aug 1st, 2019 07:54 am
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Ed
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Glad to hear the knees are better and you can now get under the baseboard again Trevor :thumbs

Unfortunately the osteoarthritis in my back has meant my days of crawling about under baseboards are over :cry:


Ed





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 Posted: Thu Aug 1st, 2019 08:27 am
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xdford
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Hello Sol,
I run my layout multiple trains at a time where I set a train running either East or West bound then work on the train just arrived, changing freight cars and locos so I am managing 2 locos in the yard/station environment or three at the most.  

You can see the operating scheme  https://sites.google.com/view/stagnesrailway04 as well as https://sites.google.com/view/stagnesrailway05.  However Reginald Bridge as a branchline station/fiddle yard does not exist in the layouts current incarnation now as there was not enough space to put it in and SWMBO needed to be appeased.

Because I have inertia throttle for the secondary throttle, I can simply get a loco up to speed and then set the brake so that it will come to a stop within the block setting (or close enough where I can release and apply the brake) while operating the straight controller.  The trains on the main are stopped at the stations as designated again with brake regulation about every 10 laps or so. I don't get too fussed if the train does not travel quite its 10 laps or goes a little over. So although it looks as though I am trying to manage 3 trains, I am focusing on one at a time but this allows for other operators to come into the layout with me playing the "Fat Controller"  but I mainly operate alone.

Thanks Ed and I know the hassle with backs -  mine is not 100% after years of not being able to walk straight and I am working on that with the Gym work as an ongoing rehab so I still have a way to go just to get somewhere near the stage I feel I should be at but at least the monster under the layout can now be dealt with more confidently!

Cheers from Oz

Trevor

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 Posted: Thu Aug 1st, 2019 09:34 am
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Petermac
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Pleased to hear you can get on your knees Trevor - good for begging ............... :mutley

I'm always impressed by those who can juggle two or three controllers/throttles/locos at the same time.  I have 2 hands but must keep one in my pocket at all times because I only have 1 brain to operate them ................. :cheers :cheers



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 Posted: Wed Aug 7th, 2019 08:41 pm
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Padster
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Hi Trevor ... I too have been AWOL for a while - back playing up, 2 yr old grandson, work, holidays, etc but have been active on the layout front despite all that. I'll post full updates and photos on my thread shortly. 
Glad you are making slow but steady progress healthwise after your somewhat torrid 12 mths and great you are returning to your layouts. Keep well and making progress ... and know that your excellent advice (including that from Sol too) has not gone to waste as you will see in my updates.

cheers
Paul  

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 Posted: Thu Aug 8th, 2019 12:05 am
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xdford
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Hello Paul and Thanks Mate
It was a real trial for the first 4 or 5 months but it has been a lot better.  Just a case of confidence really to face the monster in the cupboard so to speak!

As of last night, I have got most of my signals going!  I am missing one (mislaid in the move and it took a bit of sorting out to work out which wires were which as a couple of wires were broken in the transport down here! One of the bidirectional lights has lost its red component and it is not a dicey switch.  

I have a double switch going through diodes so one way it gets half wave in one direction and reverses for the LED which has the green one working. I use AC in so by bypassing the diodes, I get the green/red mix which is a close enough yellow! So for about 90 minutes plus whatever I spend today ( after gym, a music session, chores etc) I am nearly back to where I was when we moved!  Just the yard 

I could use a three position rotary with a similar control or I could try integrated circuits to get the frequency of the green red alternation up and interlock but to me it seemed more trouble than it was worth and as much as possible, I am a believer in the KISS principle

The circuit diagram is here -



-  For yard signals I simply either select Red or Yellow with one switch as the yard should be an "approach with care" situation rather than a full speed green. so it has worked OK.

Hope this helps someone else here,

Regards from (a very coolish) Australia

Trevor

PS Peter,  Thanks for the advice about the begging -  is there any medication you are aware of that would improve the success rate?

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 Posted: Thu Aug 8th, 2019 06:59 am
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Petermac
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xdford wrote:.....................................................

PS Peter,  Thanks for the advice about the begging -  is there any medication you are aware of that would improve the success rate?

:mutley :mutley

That's the trouble with listening to other people Trevor - it didn't work for me either ...............

Your wiring diagrams are always so easy to follow - even I could wire up that signal from your drawing (and you already know what a dummy I am with electrics !)  :thumbs



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 Posted: Sun Aug 11th, 2019 01:19 pm
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xdford
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Hello All,
We now have lights!!!!   I have bitten the bullet and got right underneath and got many but not all of the lights on the layout operating.  I can't quite take a pic to show the ambience as such but one will follow. I do have to refit some lights to the intermediate station building (which was the main station building - replaced by a better one). 

Some of the LED's did not survive the trip so I am going to work out the best way for me to suggest life and illumination without going to superdetailing insides... that particular task has been scheduled for sometime around 2074 at current rates! I am sure my train loving nearly three year old grandson will oblige on that  one unless I do happen to live until 120!

The task after that will be to actually loom up the wiring and neaten it up as there have been quite a few modifications over the years.

A pic or two will follow but it may take a little while to get it right to show you all the  effect!

Cheers

Trevor

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 Posted: Mon Aug 12th, 2019 03:21 am
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xdford
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Hello All,
Tried last night to take a light shot - or more appropriately a shot of the lights in the dark/night time shot - it was actually night time - but it was out of my capability with a camera phone. I will try again in half light and see how that goes! 

What the pictures do not pick up is the colour of the signals as I would like to show but I did set the signals with one each to Red, Yellow and Green,  atypically of course, but to try to show what they can do!  Hope you can get the idea anyway!  Now to tidy the wiring extras on the floor as a result. There will be extra lights for the station buildings. 

The other thing which definitely does not show itself is the 4 areas that I have split to make an isolated section,  4 on the turntable roads and 1 on the railcar road - The CP railcar is currently isolated in the first picture view.  I ddi not worry about insulated joiners, just a simple cut with a razor saw was sufficient! 


Regards from Oz

Trevor








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 Posted: Fri Aug 16th, 2019 07:07 am
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xdford
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Hello All,

This picture was taken late afternoon (4pm in later winter) so still strong daylight outside for another 90 minutes or so



You can just make out the fronts of locos in the loco depot ... I will try again and update this photo but with headlights and caboose lights etc, it looks to me like a night scene from a plane or similar,

A few more lights will soon go in.   

Cheers

Trevor

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 Posted: Sun Aug 18th, 2019 01:06 am
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xdford
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Hello All,

The idiot box held nothing for me the last few evenings so I have been doing a couple of tasks.

These included adding and replacing some lighting, realigning a couple of turntable runoff sections and other tasks.

The roundhouse however was slightly on the wrong radius angle so I have bitten the bullet to dismantle the roofing, cut the doorways in the back wider and braces on the inside.  The streetlamp to the right of the shed was also relocated.

I also used thicknesses of foam core to elevate the height of the building by 4mm to give that bit of extra clearance which also replicates a concrete foundation in texture.



While the roof is off, I will also rearrange the lighting so it is evenly dispersed once the roof goes back on.

Even small layouts are never totally done!  

Cheers for now 

Trevor

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 Posted: Mon Aug 19th, 2019 04:24 pm
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Petermac
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It's tough trying to get a decent shot of lighting from a distance Trevor.

Your "dark" one shows where the lights are but we can't see the "pools of light" they surely cast on the ground.  Do they exist ?  I'm not there but from France, I'd be inclined to increase the intensity of the lights. :hmm

On the other hand, a closer shot might show up more of the lighting effect ...........................




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 Posted: Tue Aug 20th, 2019 12:06 am
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I thought it was Perseus. On magnification I see some lurking locomotives.

Nigel



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 Posted: Tue Aug 20th, 2019 03:16 am
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xdford
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Hi Peter and Nigel,
There is a cast light but it is not Christmas tree like as such with floodlighting.  I use LEDs rather than bulbs for the obvious reasons and the closer we are to the lights, the better the effect.  I have just fitted LED's of a reasonable intensity to the insides of the stations and I am very pleased with the effect.  I am going to do a couple more buildings (the house on the hill, the engine shed as detailed above  and the lower story of the signal tower as well as make another light tower for  the yard.   

The other thing is that I have taken it with my mobile but I should dig out my tripod and try it with the DSLR.  I find the mobile easier from the bigger screen/ lighter weight/ compact size etc for taking photds on the layout where the camera just plain does not fit!  All of the previous photos were taken with the phone!

Currently though we are up in Melbourne and will be here for a few days so no railway work is possible... I will try it out when we get home and update the results.

And if anyone out there has clues for getting more out of either camera, please share it!

Regards from Oz

Trevor

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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2019 07:05 am
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You really need a camera where you can set your film speed, aperature and shutter speed, also focus, an SLR for example, I usually set mine to ASA 100, 22f  and then adjust shutter speed so that the picture on the screen looks right.
Photoshop or something similar is good for post production.




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 Posted: Wed Aug 21st, 2019 07:31 am
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Claus Ellef
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Phil.c wrote: You really need a camera where you can set your film speed, aperature and shutter speed, also focus, an SLR for example, I usually set mine to ASA 100, 22f  and then adjust shutter speed so that the picture on the screen looks right.
Photoshop or something similar is good for post production.


Fantastic photo  :doublethumb



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