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Hi All.   I have read with interest the many scratch building tips, especially the Warehouse , an excellent idea for low a relief backscene.  But I am having trouble cutting out the round part of window openings, the easy way is to have square windows. But, they don’t suit warehouses. Would some kind Modeller please advise me. Best wishes

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Hi, Kevin, look up 'compass cutters' Even if you cannot manage to cut right through your chosen material it will give a useful track to follow.

For the serious plastic modeller, a pair of 'millwrights dividers' are the D.B.s for getting that important deep scratch line that enables a snap-out piece.

For large radii, i.e. arches, look up 'washer' or 'gasket cutter'. As a result of being an 'ole git who can't walk past a junk shop/tool store I have all three.

Don't  forget to look at 'hollow' punches, work well in card for small window tops, Aaron sell a set for £6-£7 that go from 6mm to 2mm.  Remember  to use them over a piece of end grain hardwood for best results.
Doug

Last edited on Tue Mar 13th, 2018 02:01 pm by Chubber

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Hi Doug Thank you for your reply. I had a similar idea with a “ Hole Saw “ to make a viaduct from plywood, but it may be to rough for plastic.  Alternative to DB is MN , same thing but different words.   Best wishes

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Hi Kevin,

Paper template (use a regular compass or for arches a french curve, plastic or flexible) or as said steel or fiber washers to make the line (I use a 2H pencil to keep the line width uniform), nibbling pliers or old Xurons to get the approximate curve, curved or oval fine file to the line. I find with plastic it's easier to cut to about 0.5mm from the line and file to the line to finish. For straight sections make sure you have a flat file with one edge not milled.

I draw mine on the computer and print. Arched windows for warehouses are available from several suppliers. Grandt over here does them in a variety of scales with the moveable center panes. Saves the bother of doing all the panes.

Nigel

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Hi Nigel.   Thank you for your reply. As it happens I do have some “ Plastic Window “ frames. I could use them as a guide.   if they had a rabbet ( rebate) that would make it easier one could hide the rough edges with the frames.     Best wishes Kevin 

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A plotter cutter works for me.

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Hi Mike.  Thank you very much. I will have to look out for one at the next “ Model Rail Exhibition “ that I attend. I notice that Squires have them , or similar ??? in their catalogue .   Best wishes. Kevin

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In the past I've used a metal washer with the inside hole diameter the size I want, clamped to the plastic and then used a dremel with a cutting drill bit to cut the curve using the metal as a guide. you can use any flat piece of metal that has the hole the right size as a guide though, not just washers. A quick clean up with an emery board ( I pinch em from SWMBO) and your good to go  

Cheers
  Matt

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Hi Matt.  Thank you for your reply. That is another good idea, that I will try and report back . Best wishes. Kevin

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Kevin just practice first on some scrap plastic until you get the hang of it  :)
Cheers

         Matt

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Compass cutters work well. Cheap enough, I think they sell one at Works, certainly any place selling card craft stuff.

David

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Hi Wahiba.    Thank you for your recommendation . But, you mentioned “ Card Craft Stuff “ , Card would be a whole new ball game from “ Brick Plastic Sheet “ though.   Best wishes. Kevin

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Barchester wrote: Kevin just practice first on some scrap plastic until you get the hang of it  :)
Cheers

         Matt
Thank you again Matt . I do believe that I have more scrap stuff than new stuff:cry: as it happens . Best wihes. Kevin

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Hi Matt.    Further to my scratch building , I have been rummaging through my stock and sorted out some windows , I have small square type brass etches ,suitable for a “ signal box “, but the windows for a warehouse are printed on a clear plastic sheet. They look good for the job??? But, I cannot work out how to use them, have you used this type before ?   Best wishes.  Kevin

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Hi Kevin I take it your now looking through the square window rather than the arched window ? (Memmories of Brian Cant and playschool popped into my head  ;-) )  I've used the windows printed on clear plastic before, cut larger than the opening and with offcuts of card (or plasticard depending on what you are using) glued over the edge of the window inside the building to hold it in place. Never used brass , are they pre glazed ? If so being stiffer I would Imagine you could just glue in place . . If not then glue to Acetate (clear plastic), cut the plastic larger than the opening and again use scrap pieces on the inside to hold in place. . .but guess what ? One of the guys who KNOWS what hes talking about will be along round about now to tell us how it SHOULD be done ( I hope !) 
;-)  Cheers
 Matt

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For eched brass windows I tack them in place with PVA then cut a piece from a sheet of OHP transparency  to cover all or most of the inside of the relevant building wall, again using PVA (or other adhesive you prefer)



 This scratch built N gauge terrace uses Peedie Models  etched brass windows and doors fitted as detailed above (not so happy with my attempt at slate roofing though)

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Hi Matt.  Thank you for your reply. My windows are by “ Protype Models “ on acetate sheets, when compared to the“ metcalfe Warehouse Kit “ which I have, but can’t be bothered building, they look oversized, and are printed in marked out squares, which don’t leave much room for gluing. But I will press ahead with a mock-up .
Best wishes.  Kevin

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Hi Mike.  Thank you for your reply. An excellent job that, and good scratch built houses and warehouses look so much better than “ push through and glue together “ card kits from the famous company’s . “ N” Gauge Models are much to small for me to contemplate , although of course you get twice as much Railway for your money and more suitable for modern living.  Best wishes. Kevin

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Kevin they may have printed guidelines that are a bit 'tight' but remember whos in charge of the scissers ! As long as you have plenty to spare, Ignore the guidelines and cut a larger margin round each window to give you more area to glue with. You will lose a few windows but thats ok if you have more than you need 
Cheers

 Matt

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Hi Matt    Thank you again. I have just checked my stock, and I do have enough arched windows. I also have some“ Round Windows “.   Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi Kevin,

I used to do mine using an inkjet printer and overhead acetate sheets for OO/4mm. Including cobwebs.

I use Tichy frames and inserts or clear acetate for O scale. You can always make your own panes using canopy glue. Ideal for old windows.

Nigel

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If you are asking how to use the pre-printed windows supplied with a particular kit, this is how I go about it.

1. Cut them out leaving as much spare edge as you can.

2. PLace them matt side downwards and put a small piece of sellotape along one narrow edge with just a little s'tape on the acetate.

3. If the walls are still flat and unassembled, lower the face up wall over the window/tape and when aligned, lower fully and press to stick the tape/window to the inside of the wall.

4. Turn over without disturbing the alignment and put a little Roket canopy glue around the other three edges. 'Caterpillary action' will pull it under the edges of the acetate, DON'T use too much. Anita's Tacky PVA will work but will take longer to dry. When dry, hold down the acetate and pick off the little piece of s'tape and replace with glue as above.

5. If you have already assembled the walls, put a little s'tape on two opposite sides of the window acetate, and with a blob of blue tack on a pencil manoeuvre it inside, press the tape to the inner walls and add the glue as above,when dry etc..

If that's not what you wanted, sorry to have wasted your time and 2 billion electrons...

Good luck,

Doug

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Hi Doug.      Thank you for your reply.   I do have a Metcalfe Warehouse , but so do thousands of others, and I just cannot be bothered building it. I have go the scratch building bug. But moulder plastic or etched brass looks much better than I can do. The windows that I have are printed on plastic are very close so I will have to sacrifice some of them. Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi Nigel    The first sign of snow in London puts every one in a panic. But no one bothers to grit the side streets. So I can’t get very far, and I have time to spare. I have been saving the cereal packets to practice OO for the  warehouse project, I will have get the brick sheet once I can get out. which may not be for a while. Best wishes. Kevin

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Hi Mike.  I have been rethinking my warehouse idea, I went to a Model Railway Exhibition and everyone else that had a warehouse on their layout, and there was several, had much smaller windows than the ones I have. It was a busy day, and I didn’t get a chance to ask, but, none of the warehouses looked like kits? Best wishes. Kevin

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Have you looked at the Scalescenes range? Great starting point even if you are scratchbuilding. It helps take the guesswork out of some of the dimensions and easily adaptable with different texture papers or can be over-layed with styrene brick sheets. There is a choice of matching brass windows to fit each kit (available seprately via Brassmasters - expensive though), or the kit comes with a printable sheet where windows can be printed on transparent overhead projector sheets (cheap from Amazon). 
I have used both and made my own windows from styrene rod (painful process). The brass windows are excellent, but pricey. For my church I used the OH transparent sheets and they came out really well.

They do several warehouse kits at very reasonable prices. Providing you have the means to print, all you need is 1mm/2mm greycard (Amazon), good strong knife (i use a stanley and lots of blades), and Pritt-stick & good card glue.

https://scalescenes.com/townscenes/

have just noticed they also sell pre-printed window set sheets which they post out to you:

https://scalescenes.com/scaleglaze/

Ian


Last edited on Fri Jun 8th, 2018 08:28 am by IanLMS

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Hi Ian.  Thank you for your reply. I have been a customer of scalescenes already, I purchased their Viaduct , and some Under the arches Windows from brassmasters, but the computer that would “speak” to my Printer has found a new home, and my laptop is out of action. I have some 2mm greyboard, tough to cut? But I do have a Stanley knife and spare blades. I have just clicked on your ref. for scalscenes preprinted paper, but, couldn’t get through?? I will look them up after this. A mate of mine, recommended a WiFi printer ( dirt cheap, he said?) for my iPad .The brass Etch windows that I have are most likely destined for a scratchbuilt signal cabin, or at a stretch terraced houses, if I pull my finger out? But I would like a cabin to put life into the scene. The terraced houses in “ N gauge “ 
to sit in the scene to give a sense of distance? now that would be a challenge? best wishes. Kevin

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The good thing with Scalescenes is you buy the 00 gauge version and reduce the print ratio to a size that would work. I model in 00 but printed their church and farmhouse at 75% so effectively they are 3mm/ft. Works well at the back of the layout.


                 

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