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Peco Electrofrog DCC Compliance - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
 Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2018 01:24 am
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Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 2759

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Hi All,

In response to Richard's ("Headmaster") question about how to wire a Peco Electrofrog to the plungers, and not wishing to hijack his thread,  the following might be useful (probably discussed before, but rather than search here it is again...). Taken from a clinic I gave last year.

On the basis that a picture is worth a lot more more than a detailed description, this is what I do with a Peco electrofrog turnout to make it DCC compliant (all rails wired and of the correct polarity) as opposed to being just DCC friendly (still dependent on physical contacts for continuity). In this case it's a code 83 electrofrog #6.

Rather than cut the jumpers between the frog and closure rails (between B and D) I leave them in place. I get rid of the weak point of the design (the rotating hinge) and use rail joiner hinges soldered to the new blades. This way the stock rails power the blades, the closure rails and the frog exit rails, the frog is isolated and switchable, and the frog is now about 2 inches long instead of 8 inches. I also get rid of those funny-looking pressed blades and use solid rail blades to NMRA width (the Peco width is way undersized because of the power-routing design), and ditch the supplied tie bar.

The now 2" long frog allows anything except a short wheelbase 0-4-0 (or an old Mainline or Lima 4-wheel bogie diesel with pick-up on opposite sides of one bogie) to run through without powering the frog. The wheels ensure it is powered. Those who lean towards belts and braces and DCC sound will of course power the frog via the turnout switch or motor to avoid any stuttering as it rattles through the points.

The minimum necessary is of course to cut the jumpers and wire the plungers at D, wire the frog (if not done), and use rail insulators on the frog exit rails. You will still be dependent on powering the blades through the rotating hinge and blade-stock rail contacts. Keep them clean and paint free and they should be fine. Letting dirt and paint get in the way, however...


©Nigel C. Phillips
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