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Track laying - what adhesive? - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Feb 26th, 2018 01:54 am
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Padster
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Hi all, Apologies if this topic has been tackled before but cannot find much when searching - could be my poor search criteria.

What is the recommended adhesive to lay track onto cork underlay for n gauge? PVC adhesive, Caulk, normal wood glue? 

I'm also going to be laying ballast so perhaps simply pinning the track will suffice if the ballast adhesive will provide the key solidity needed?

Lastly, any recommendations for protecting point movement if adhesive is used for track laying?

Thank you for any further advice ... or point me to any existing thread if this is already covered which I'm sure it is.
Paul 

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 Posted: Mon Feb 26th, 2018 02:34 am
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Brossard
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Paul, I'm using Tacky Glue for laying my track and roadbed.  I have Woodland Scenics foam for the roadbed.  The foam is stuck to the board and weighed down until dry.  The track is glued to the foam and also weighed down.  Tacky Glue dries flexible and if you make a mistake (and I have) can be removed relatively easily.

My adventures can be found here:

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14643&forum_id=21

I will also try to use dilute Tacky Glue when the time comes to do the ballast.  I'm hoping that this method will reduce noise and make the trains ride better.

John



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 Posted: Mon Feb 26th, 2018 03:09 am
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BCDR
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Hi Paul,

Good quality PVA (white craft glue, the better quality ones have a neutral pH). It has a decent tack time, if you get it wrong when dry then cover with wet kitchen towel and cling film for a few hours. I use it diluted with water, normally about 9 parts PVA to 1 part water. Makes it easier to brush. The ballast when glued will do most of the work. Place track in position, go along the edge of the sleepers with masking take, remove track, glue between the masking tape, drop track and adjust to taste.

Tacky glue (Aleene's over here) has a shorter tack time, at least in my hands. It's quite acidic (pH 4.5ish) so expect some funny colored ballast.

Nigel



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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2018 01:22 am
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Padster
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Thanks gents .... appreciate the feedback so far and if anybody else wishes to share experiences on the gluing topic please feel free.
Paul 

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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2018 01:27 am
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Western Way
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PVA with grey or brown acrylic paint mixed in (depending on what colour ballast you are using).



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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2018 02:44 am
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Copydex works quite well plus it's easy to lift track like Kato or similar imitation ballasted track but not so good for Peco (except before ballasting!)

I've also used double sided tape.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2018 11:24 am
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Another vote for Copydex.


Ed



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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2018 06:59 pm
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When using PVA, bear in mind that there are several types - type I being water soluble, and type III waterproof. The waterproof one being commonly found in builders merchants.
Use the water soluble if you want to use the track again. Both types can be diluted, and hold the track and ballast.

Matter of choice really - Copydex, PVA, decorators caulk,double-sided tape, - on one of our layouts we used No-nails...
Ballast we have always used cheap PVA/water/meths dripped onto the ballast, and then sprayed with meths to spread it evenly.

Just one method - everyone has their own, no doubt. Just experiment (on a spare bit of board/track is best ;-))

Shaun.

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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2018 11:50 pm
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col.stephens
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I use PVA from Poundland.  Works a treat and is cheap.


Terry

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 Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2018 01:30 am
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Padster
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Great feedback guys ... this is really helpful  ;-)

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 Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2018 02:49 am
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gastwo
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col.stephens wrote:

I use PVA from Poundland.  Works a treat and is cheap.

Terry

and only costs a pound...
:pedal

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 Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2018 03:01 am
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I have recently learned from a lady teacher that the 'schools' quality PVA sold in 1 litre plastic bottles in Hobbycraft is soluble in warm water so may set less like concrete when the inevitable alteration in track layout is called for. It also washes out of clothing....

Doug



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 Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2018 03:28 am
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Longchap
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That sounds like a good tip Doug and I was in Hobbycraft just last week getting storage boxes and a selection of card for my goods shed. I'll have to try Centrakor instead. 

Good luck getting stuck in Paul.

Bill



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 Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2018 08:50 am
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BCDR
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It is also pH neutral. H&S. I use one from the hardware store, dissolves fine. Avoid dollar/pound store products.

Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2018 08:47 pm
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Crompton 33
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I use Poundland PVA . Mixed with 50% water with a drop of Fairy to make it flow easy. If you need to remove the track some time spray with water leave for about 5 mins . I use a wall scraper put under the track to lift it .



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 Posted: Thu Mar 1st, 2018 04:19 pm
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Allegheny1600
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Another vote for Copydex here!
I know it's expensive but it really does help cut down on that awful "drumming" noise you get with glues that set hard.
It pongs a bit too but that soon passes.

I also have some Woodland Scenics glue which is my back-up if I run out of Copydex.
Cheers,
John.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 2nd, 2018 12:27 am
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amdaley
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Copydex here as well.



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 Posted: Sat Mar 3rd, 2018 12:27 pm
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Incidentally, to stop that off-cut of carpet fraying (you know, the bit you rest your feet on when playing, er, sorry, modelling) brush a generous dollop of Copydex along the freshly cut edge, no 'oversewing' etc. Works on the funny shaped bits around doors etc when using offcuts, too.

Chubber the Parsimonious



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