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Ursa Resurgat - OO/OO9 - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Nov 6th, 2019 06:33 pm
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John Dew
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Excellent example of the late John Flann’s precept...”less is more”.
It looks very elegant ......cant wait to see the scenery and buildings.....I remember the shed (and the mill of course) it had a super detailed interior as well.

I am sure you have thought this through......but the one concern I have is the daily goods and no head shunt................I can see how it could run round the train and propel the Brake van into the spur but in order to move wagons from shed to siding will it have do this, off scene, by backing the train up the 1:48 curved gradient?

As I say I am sure that  you have it sorted

Best wishes

John




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 Posted: Thu Nov 7th, 2019 04:26 pm
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Thank you, John, for your interest and encouragement. I had thought of a head-shunt as I have an old double slip lifted from Bear's End and considered it fitted thus...in the siding/engine shed turnout place with virtually no change in the geometry.



It did seem a bit O.T.T. for a simple B.L.T., in practice an expensive bit of P.W. [Don't you hate T.L.A.s...] [Three letter abbrevations] Sorry!

I envisaged the Daily Goods arriving into the run-round, running back around the train via the platform road, coupling on to the rear of the train next to the brake-van and drawing it back to clear the run-round turnout, then propelling it into the goods shed siding.

There it could be cut off, leaving the loco and brake van which it would spot on the run-round spur, before picking up outbound goods from the lay-aside siding, bringing them back to hook on the brake van before departing tender first. As there is about 28 ins. to the start of the climb, it should be feasible, I've tried it with eight 2 wheelers and a Pannier [Eh? What?...did someone say Pannier???]

A lot of faffing, yes, but what else is there to do once it's built and running? Ashburton was apparently a so-and-so to shunt but never got changed.

'Ah!' 'But how did the empty/return stock get to the lay-aside siding?' I hear you say.....

As Dobbin didn't finally retire from B.R. [W.R.] until the 1960s there might just be stable block somewhere on site....

I'd be pleased to hear any other points of view, but remember Desiré Dungmore's old ploughman Disraeli Brokenshire had to find somewhere to work when her husband Turnip Dungmore phased out 'orses in favour of infernal combustion engined tractors...

Douglas




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 Posted: Thu Nov 7th, 2019 08:16 pm
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BCDR
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Perusing working track diagrams shows some real oddities, often an afterthought, but WR (GWR) termini were usually built on the cheap by a GWR-sponsored railway company that in most cases just wanted to move a few wagons and passenger coaches around. Ultimate aim was being bought out by the GWR at a profit ( :lol:).

Hook Norton on the BCDR required goods shunting over the adjacent 90-feet high viaduct, where the brake van was left parked on a 1:100 gradient. I can remember going along on a Saturday in the 1950's and "help" the local coal merchant move the coal wagons around using a couple of braces of 1 manpower local worthies. Up the line Chipping Norton required the locomotives to run around their passenger coaches by using the tunnel immediately after the double track line through the station ended.

.The coal sidings at Fairford on the old East Gloucestershire Railway were only accessible by going through the goods shed (as evidenced by smoke either side above the doors). WW2 expediency. Moving cattle vans around must have been interesting as that also meant the locomotive using the goods shed road. The goods shed had a couple of pillars either side of the doors - they served as capstans for engines to pull wagons around by rope.

Anytime an S was on a signal you can be pretty sure shunting took over the station, as that was often the only runaround available.

Nigel






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 Posted: Thu Nov 7th, 2019 09:21 pm
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Thanks for those interesting and bizarre facts! Doesn't it go to prove the old modelling adage that that there is a prototype for just about anything?
Ian Rice in one of his track plan books reproduces some of them in the spirit of 'more to play with".

Douglas



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 Posted: Fri Nov 8th, 2019 01:12 am
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John Dew
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Chubber wrote: Thank you, John, for your interest and encouragement. I had thought of a head-shunt as I have an old double slip lifted from Bear's End and considered it fitted thus...in the siding/engine shed turnout place with virtually no change in the geometry.



It did seem a bit O.T.T. for a simple B.L.T., in practice an expensive bit of P.W. [Don't you hate T.L.A.s...] [Three letter abbrevations] Sorry!

I envisaged the Daily Goods arriving into the run-round, running back around the train via the platform road, coupling on to the rear of the train next to the brake-van and drawing it back to clear the run-round turnout, then propelling it into the goods shed siding.

There it could be cut off, leaving the loco and brake van which it would spot on the run-round spur, before picking up outbound goods from the lay-aside siding, bringing them back to hook on the brake van before departing tender first. As there is about 28 ins. to the start of the climb, it should be feasible, I've tried it with eight 2 wheelers and a Pannier [Eh? What?...did someone say Pannier???]

A lot of faffing, yes, but what else is there to do once it's built and running? Ashburton was apparently a so-and-so to shunt but never got changed.

'Ah!' 'But how did the empty/return stock get to the lay-aside siding?' I hear you say.....

As Dobbin didn't finally retire from B.R. [W.R.] until the 1960s there might just be stable block somewhere on site....

I'd be pleased to hear any other points of view, but remember Desiré Dungmore's old ploughman Disraeli Brokenshire had to find somewhere to work when her husband Turnip Dungmore phased out 'orses in favour of infernal combustion engined tractors...

Douglas




I knew you had it sorted!

The secret 28” helps and I should have thought of Dobbin. I do like the idea of a stable......the GWR standard design can make a great model......I am looking forward to your version.

I suppose on Dobbin’s day off the branch passenger loco could shunt the lay aside siding? It all sounds great fun

Cheers

John



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 Posted: Sat Jan 4th, 2020 01:31 pm
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Chubber
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I couldn't resist it......I brought some stuff down from the loft with the Christmas decorations, and found some flock, green stuff, little people and my watercolour box so decided to enjoy myself and 'scenic' the bridge supports which I have finished in Scalescenes random ashlar.

Herewith the scene where Mrs Porter Pete tells Farmer 'Turnip' Dungmore that Divisional Inspector Luke Ought is having a 'ding-dong' with his wife Desiré. She was driven to do it as the Inspector deliberately left Pete's basket of racing pigeons off the Race Special, and as a result one of his birds won the trophy, and Pete just hasn't been the same since...As Turnip Dungmore is a local magistrate, all may not bode well for the Inspector...



Enid Chubber



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 Posted: Sat Jan 4th, 2020 02:35 pm
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John Dew
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Stunning Doug,,.......the Master is back:lol:



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 Posted: Sat Jan 4th, 2020 03:09 pm
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As John said Doug - stunning and so pleased we may be seeing more of your brilliant modelling.

Happy New Year to you and the Station Mistress - hope you had a good Christmas in Blightly - no doubt more atmospheric than here in France !!

I hope 2020 is kind to you both - and of course, to Bisto.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 13th, 2020 04:45 pm
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Chubber
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John, Peter,

Thank you both for your encourgement!

Herewith a little progress with the bridge, a deck and guard rails added. Deck from balsa and guard rails from Peco Bullhead track. How it hurts to pull a good bit of track apart especially at about £5 a length.







I also got my air-brush out of retirement, the Vallejo paints had separated over the last two years, so I stuck a stainless steel screw in the bottles and carried them around in my pockets for a couple of days, seems to have worked. I'd hate to have to spend whisky tokens replacing them! [Feel a little faint after writing the 's' word]

Poop-poop

Douglas



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 Posted: Mon Jan 13th, 2020 06:24 pm
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TeaselBay
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Looks brilliant. I really like it. 



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 Posted: Wed Feb 26th, 2020 06:09 pm
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Having more or less sorted my track and building layout on the first side of the room I have decided to install the backscene support before it becomes difficult to reach over things.

I'm using Bendy 6mm MDF, below. Most professional stockist keep it in 4ft x 8ft pieces which are awlful things to handle, and my local merchants will not cut sheets down due to it's comparative delicacy so I have bitten the bullet and payed £17 for a 2ft x 4ft piece from Wickes, roughly twice the price of  4ft x 8ft stuff. Cutting down a 2ft x 4ft length gives me two pieces 1ft high although I'd have preferred 15-16"high.




I have secured curved formers to the upper part of the metal shelving uprights using small right angled brackets [below] with self drillng and tapping screws, very easy. It occurs to me that this is a good system for fixing and arranging backscenes above and around layouts supported by conventinal means as it is so adjustable. The uprights, of course, can be cut to any useful length witha hacksaw, and 6mm frame fixing screws do away with all the 'faff' of drilling and aligning Rawlplug holes.



The picture below shows the first section of curved backscene support. Again, no gluehas been used in the unlikely event that anything needs dis-assembling. The two radii shown here are [nearest] 9" radius and [furthest] 12".

The ends of the bendy MDF is joined to the linking plain 6mm MDF with two inch wide strips glued and screwed to the ends of the bendy MDF. All screwheads are well countersunk.

DO NOT TO sand or fill any rough spots raised by the countersunk bits etc. until at least one coat of MDF sealer

e.g. https://www.toolstation.com/rustins-quick-drying-clear-mdf-primer-sealer/p26630  is applied overall and allowed to dry thoroughly or any subsequent treatment/priming paint/backscene adhesive will be absorbed at a different rate around the holes and will shrink and show through as unevenesses especially if the modern generation of synthetic printed backscene materials are used.




I'm now on the look-out for back scenes that are not too 'in focus' or too 'bright', showing hills, woodland and sky.  Someone here has such a backscene, but their details escape me.

Well, the glacier has jerked forward about 6" since my last post, 'Festina lente' ain't in it, eh?

Poop-poop!

Douglas




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 Posted: Sat Feb 29th, 2020 08:36 pm
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Chubber
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...a bit further round the room. The empty section in the corner is a 'lift-outable' corner on which I can model a scenic feature more easily on the bench once I have created the desired topography.



I have been looking at backscenes, I am considering ' https://www.modelscenerysupplies.co.uk/Backscene-Harvest-Hills-242 ' which is available in self adhesive 10ft x 15"  formats, and i quote their web-page

We offer a Premium self-adhesive option for this backscene which is printed on tough Polypropylene that is waterproof and scratch and tear resistant.  
To apply , remove the backing film a little at a time whilst fixing it to your backboard. Please note that the glue on these does not like MDF nor Chipboard and these boards should be sealed with a gloss paint or varnish before mounting the backscene.



As my backscene mount is 12" high I shall have to trim a little off top or bottom, I'm minded to trim off the bottom.

Has anyone else used 'ID Backscenes' ?

Douglas




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 Posted: Sat Feb 29th, 2020 10:15 pm
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Claus Ellef
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Chubber wrote: ...a bit further round the room. The empty section in the corner is a 'lift-outable' corner on which I can model a scenic feature more easily on the bench once I have created the desired topography.



I have been looking at backscenes, I am considering ' https://www.modelscenerysupplies.co.uk/Backscene-Harvest-Hills-242 ' which is available in self adhesive 10ft x 15"  formats, and i quote their web-page

We offer a Premium self-adhesive option for this backscene which is printed on tough Polypropylene that is waterproof and scratch and tear resistant.  
To apply , remove the backing film a little at a time whilst fixing it to your backboard. Please note that the glue on these does not like MDF nor Chipboard and these boards should be sealed with a gloss paint or varnish before mounting the backscene.



As my backscene mount is 12" high I shall have to trim a little off top or bottom, I'm minded to trim off the bottom.

Has anyone else used 'ID Backscenes' ?

Douglas


HI Douglas I have used ID Backscenes for Wombat Creek Tramways. It works quite well. You definitely need to make sure you mount on a glossy surface . I sprayed my MDF with paint. Any spot not being glossy will not take the glue on the backscene . If it is near an edge you can add a little glue later. Living in Melbourne the 'tram room ' can be very warm in summer and bubbles may appear.  The seem to disappear again. Importantly do not trim the backscene before applying to the board. It is very difficult to get it straight on the board and you don't get a second go. Apply and trim is the best approach and you avoid a white wedge on the top. Unfortunately I didn't 😕
Anyway I can recommend the ID Backscenes .



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 Posted: Sat Feb 29th, 2020 11:28 pm
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Hi Douglas
I used  the sky only backscene, in exactly the same format.  Good quality, to say the least.  I fixed mine straight to thin plywood, without a problem.  BUT you do have to apply some pressure (via a roller or such like) to get it to stick properly.  Being in the loft, with the temperature changes, it bubbled up a bit in the first summer.... but rolling it got it all back and there have been no subsequent problems.  I think you will be happy with your choice.

Michael 



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 Posted: Mon Mar 2nd, 2020 06:57 am
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Chubber
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Claus, Michael,
Thank you very much for your posts, I think that's the way I shall go, after priming and painting with some acrylic gloss for safety's sake.
Best wishes,
Doug



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 Posted: Fri Jun 12th, 2020 06:01 pm
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Chubber
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I have ordered and received my ID Backscenes and I'm very pleased with them. The scenes I wanted were not available in 12" height on any of the retailers sites I visited, so I contacted the firm directly.

https://www.art-printers.com/     [203A and 203AA]

I spoke with 'John' who said that posed no problem, and that he would run me off the two sets I needed at 12" high, put them in the post with an invoice, which he duly did. Nice to be treated in an old fashioned way, with trust.
Today I got fed up with the weather, and having checked that my little Eriba 420 caravan is still O.K., came home and got out the 'see-nicking' stuff. Very messy but quite satisfying in a 'slap it on any-how' sort of way. I'll probably not be in love with it tomorrow, but after a home made Moussaka and some R.L.W. I was in the mood for a bit of slap and sticky.....



Keep safe,

D





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 Posted: Wed Jun 17th, 2020 01:00 pm
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Chubber
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Well today I are being a photographer.....not very well. Isn't amazing how soon you forget what all the buttons and dials do on a camera?

Herewith some shots of my attempts to get a damp weathered Devon clay look. I shall be adding a little fine green  sprinkles to the horizontal green stripes. A bit miffed because the erstwhile cow-parsely plants  went all floppy with the application of hairspray, although it doesn't seem to have affected the 'gorse'.

I'm trying for the 'green and slimy' look for the stream margin under what will be the rail bridge, third picture.

I got the idea for the broken flat bits of hard earth at the base of the bank when I cleaned out the 'gloop' from the plastic pot I mixed it in, it broke away in thin layers. I'm wondering if there is any mileage in deliberately mixing up some greyish gloop, spreading it thinly on acrylic, and see if it breaks like walling stone etc.?

Any creative criticism will be very welcome.









Poop-poop!

Douglas



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 Posted: Thu Jun 18th, 2020 11:37 pm
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"I got the idea for the broken flat bits of hard earth at the base of the bank when I cleaned out the 'gloop' from the plastic pot I mixed it in, it broke away in thin layers. I'm wondering if there is any mileage in deliberately mixing up some greyish gloop, spreading it thinly on acrylic, and see if it breaks like walling stone etc.?"

It could well work... I have thought the same thing with left over plaster casting compound.  You would have to have the patience of the proverbial Saint to put it all together though!


Michael



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