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Ursa Resurgat - OO/OO9 - Members Personal Layouts. - Model Railway Layouts. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 11:28 pm
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pnwood
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Hi Doug

A nice space to have and it looks like you've given a lot of thought on how to use it to the best advantage.

Something that no-one else has mentioned so far is that a fiddle yard at the rear of layouts against a wall is not ideal. Access is difficult as you are always leaning over the layout to get at things. Also the plan to my mind has a flaw. The main station platform is longer than both the secondary station and fiddle yard roads, the secondary station is not so important but the longest train that you can run is determined by the longest road in the fiddle yard. This looks like it would only allow a loco plus two bogie coaches max.

My solution would be to move the fiddle yard to the board across the link and have a through station on the board opposite the main station. You could then have a small industry in the corner where the fiddle yard is currently shown or a space to create a scene from your wonderful buildings.




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 Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2018 12:05 am
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Chubber
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BCDR wrote:
Are you looking at this the right way - OO with an OO9 interchange? With that much space why not consider OO9 with an OO interchange?

Nigel

That's  how I'd like to proceed, Nigel. I'm not moved by the double level idea, I'd like to sit on my seat in the middle and look straight ahead from a viewpoint about 6-9" above track level, the OO9 on an elevated site towards the rear of the wider board with a long descent to an interchange, simply because I have several OO9 kit and scratch built locomotives and a selection of track, but would prefer a separate NG entity.

Wise words, Woody. [nothing wrong with a bit of aliteration, is there?] Nigel's suggestion of double level brings to mind storage/fiddle tracks under the front of the main boards, with perhaps a hinge up portion of fascia to get at them. J.D. is using this system, I believe?

I'm not much in need of metres of fiddle and storage, I'd like to have a lot of 'country' with no railway save a single track through it, and not a lot of stock.

I have been hand painting letters and numbers on a GWR toad today.......at 12"/1ft scale at the S.D.R. under the beady eye of a mentor 'Sid' who is 80 years young!

Doug



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 Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2018 08:55 am
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John Dew
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Chubber wrote:
Wise words, Woody. [nothing wrong with a bit of aliteration, is there?] Nigel's suggestion of double level brings to mind storage/fiddle tracks under the front of the main boards, with perhaps a hinge up portion of fascia to get at them. J.D. is using this system, I believe?

I'm not much in need of metres of fiddle and storage, I'd like to have a lot of 'country' with no railway save a single track through it, and not a lot of stock.

Doug

If J.D. is me.......then yes and no.  I think hidden (ie difficult to access) sidings are fine for storage but not fiddling.

If you have fixed rakes that do not require changing in any way then its fine to store them off scene. Attempting to fiddle (change locos/brake van location etc) with trains in difficult to access sidings is a right pain and should be avoided if at all possible.

If I were designing Granby again I would try to have most of my storage yards in a more accessible position.....out in the open.....in the guise of a marshalling yard.....exchange sidings and or carriage sidings. 

Cheers

John


ps Nicks comments about the need to establish the longest train as a determining factor follow the same line as my enquiry about the type of passenger service you are planning.







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 Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2018 12:42 pm
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Chubber
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All noted, John. I think a three coach train will be my maximum, and along the lines of '...the rear two coaches for station A...'

The problem with all these locomotives, coaches and rolling stock is that they get in the way of the buildings!

What puzzles me more is what scenario could I possibly invent to use a Pannier, a 45XX, a GWR Railcar (not too difficult so far) together with a Beatty well-tank and a S.R. Schools Class together with a rake of 6 coaches, circa 1950s? I'd deffo need a hidden storage spot for that!

Doug



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 Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2018 08:42 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Doug,

Go modern - a what-if preservation line that came with a narrow gauge interchange (L&B meets the GWR and SR). There was an article on this topic in one of the magazines a few years ago. Apart from TV aerials and satellite dishes, houses and most buildings look the same over a 60-year period. Just change the cars to suite the decade.

Nigel



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 Posted: Mon Jul 2nd, 2018 08:10 am
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Chubber
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Well, having wanted a dedicated railway room all my life I now have one, but be blowed if I can find the courage to start!

Yes, you guessed it, deciding 'ideal height' was one of the excuses for prevaricating but I can chose 44", or maybe 42" to use it seated, possibly 48" or 50" standing because I am going to use this...

https://www.screwfix...mm-2-pack/56901

as the basis of my layout supports, to see which suits me best. I intend a 'proof of concept' single track circuit of the room which will allow me to test various means of supporting a semi-open frame and of making a lift-up section in front of the door which is at one corner of a short wall. I don't think it will work out any dearer than a timber floor mounted structure and will give a lot of free floor space, with room for a work bench, a OO9 plank on a lower set of brackets, an air-brush station  and some small wheeled bookshelves.

[If you fancy the idea I would recommend the Screwfix 'RB-UK' pattern as opposed to the slightly cheaper unbranded version available at Toolstation. I bought a little of this to try the idea and found they
a.  wouldn't reliably hang at 90 degrees in each slot, and
b.  after a week of supporting two bags of flour on the end of a 300mm bracket, a distinct droop developed.

 
The T.S. stuff is now in the garage. Tactus lignum, the RB product has performed much better.]
 
Below shows my ideas for attaching ply brackets and contours


 



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 Posted: Mon Jul 2nd, 2018 08:22 pm
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Chubber
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Now thinking along the lines of a piece of 2" x 1" soft wood as an alternative to give a greater area to fix stuff to, on the side and the top surface...



Doug



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 Posted: Tue Jul 3rd, 2018 01:42 am
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John Dew
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Hi Doug

Glad to see you have stopped worrying about height......a very elegant solution
Is there a trackplan?

PS How is Bisto?

Regards

John


Edited to remove para that proved I hadnt read your post properly



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 Posted: Tue Jul 3rd, 2018 01:23 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Doug,

You will have to be very accurate cutting all those trapezoid verticals and drilling the screw holes. Easier just to use the already drilled holes in the bottom and a flat piece on the top. Also makes it easier to shim when leveling the track boards. Which will happen, because the drill holes will have mysteriously moved a mm or so between the verticals. Even after measuring thrice. (I now make the holes slots so there is a bit of vertical movement).

What vertical spacing are you planning on? Anything more than 375-450mm needs bracing. L beams front and back work well and stop any sagging and can be slotted over the brackets. This also locks the brackets in place.

Corners tend to be studiously ignored with this system. After a lot of trial and error a 45 degree join (with biscuits) and a bracket underneath at the same angle in the corner seemed best. Those connector gadgets for kitchen counter tops are also useful. That or make the board with a right angle.

If you have the room for it a laser level is better than a regular bubble one. Well worth hiring a decent one. Which is when you find the floor is not level. Or the walls flat (recent plasterboard walls are anything but because of the joins every 1200mm or so).

42" and a barstool.

Just some pointers after building quite a few meters of this support system in rooms large and small (the latter calling for very precise measurements).

Nigel



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 Posted: Tue Jul 3rd, 2018 02:53 pm
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Barchester
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looks a good idea Doug and if you keep the support rail as high as you can whilst allowing the lowest possible position of track height you will also be able to put in some high level shelfs for dvd,s or displaying stock etc so a very flexible system  :thumbs  Must agree with Nigel on buying or borrowing a laser level to line everything up. It makes the whole job so much easier !
Cheers

Matt

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 Posted: Wed Jul 4th, 2018 09:06 pm
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Chubber
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Hullo all, sorry, wrote a long reply, but seemed to have lost it...will try again tomorrow, Poop-poop!

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Jul 8th, 2018 07:54 pm
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Chubber
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Well the nexr day came and went but no chance to post, worked the box at Staverton 1940s event yesterday, managed to avoid making any loud expensive noises!



This lovely lady, Claire, graced me with a photograph of her modelling a genuine 1940 dress complete with clothing coupon label.
Hullo John, thank you for your interest, no track plan as such yet, but will be keeping it very simple, a round the room track, a small station and a halt, with an industry, perhaps a little factory for building Tugwell-Pushleys so as to incorporate a little bit of OO9. I'm thinking they could be delivered to the end users on a lowmac wagon?



90HP Tugwell

Bisto is on top form, he's 11 this month and loving Devon. He is like us, a creature of habit and is now allowed to sit on one of the conservatory sofas when we sit there before dinner to do a crossword etc. He gets daily more and more like a Teddy Bear.


Hullo Uncle John!

NIgel, I'm not too worried about getting heights of bracket supports even to the nearest m.m.,  the ply is a reasonably stiff fit in the bracket to allow for tweaking up or down, and once where I want it a small G cramp will squeeze it firmly enough for the self drilling and tapping screws to be inserted. Did I mention brackets at 60m.m. spacing? The idea of a laser level is very sound. They seem to be offered in Lidl/Aldi at regular intervals.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-self-drilling-low-profile-pan-head-screws-4-8-x-16-x-200-pack/5004h

I've had a trial at this aspect, a little care is needed because the screws drill and tap very quickly on the higher speed but take a lot longer on the lower more manageable speed.

I'd like to have a gradient or two, hoping 3" separation will be possible with one track going down as one rises, looking at folded dog-bones at the moment but don't want the appearance of double track all round. I'd like a noticeable difference between the heights at the front and back in places, perhaps as much as 9-12". I have looked at a 'preservation' scenario, but decided it's not for me. I couldn't face the idea of a Porta-Cabin next to a Period station building, yellow lines and modern vehicles!

As for corners, what about this idea?



To minimise sagging, I envisage 'T' beam track beds in 9 m.m. ply, might even go as far as marine quality for the track beds and wider station boards. If it looks like it will sag, I'll whack another bracket upright in and use more brackets, its my wall, no landlord or attached neighbour to whinge about the noise etc. With SWMBO swimming three times a week I'll have plenty of opportunity for D.I.Y. mayhem!

Luckily, due to the split-level nature of the house, all four walls of the room are block/brick.

Matt, I hope the top level of the layout will be a lighting pelmet, I'll try to keep everything else underneath. Fortunately I'm not short of storage elsewhere in this house.

Can't think of anything else at the moment, if I've missed out a query/suggetsion it's probably because I am on my second bottle of St Austell 'Proper Job'!

Doug






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'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables

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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 02:50 am
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BCDR
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Hi Doug,

Brackets at 60mm centers (2.4")? Hopefully that is 60 cm (28"). Still seems a lot or work messing around with bracket tops of various heights to accommodate variations in support heights. Although with a laser level that should be minimal. Corner looks good, needs a good sized filet.for stability though. Not a good idea to put anchors into a cinder or concrete block corner angle - it can be mostly mortar. Go to the side (hence my comment about a good sized filet).


Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 07:35 am
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Chubber
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Thanks for that, Nigel [insert 'Good Idea' smiley]

Doug



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