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shunting layout wiring points - Electrics - DC - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 05:22 pm
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Bobby098
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hi all, some know me on here   ;-)   need help wiring electrofrog point,s  electrics not my strong point  :cry:.. trying out oo gauge for once and building a small shunting layout ,  been told its best to use electrofrog points so the plan of the layout are in the pictures , all points are electrofrog  can you show me how to wire up to run a train ?do I need insulated rail joiners ?if so were to put them sorry for being a pain  :cry: cheers bob




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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 09:17 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Bob,

If you use them as is, yes. They go on the two frog exit rails. The leaflet with the points should show this. The rails to the frog (points, closure) and the frog exit rails all take the same polarity, + or -, depending on which way the points are thrown, so insulation is required.

Nigel



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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 10:14 pm
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Sol
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Bob, will it be DC or DCC ?

This site covers the lot http://brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html



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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 11:02 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Bob,

See below. Peco code 83 electrofrog. Picture is better than a lot of verbiage. This is what is called "power-routing:" In this case the point blade is touching the RHS stock rail (+ve), all the rails in red are positive. That's why insulators are required where shown.

As Ron asked, DC or DCC? They will run fine with both, but if you are DCC it makes sense to convert them to full DCC specifications and have a switchable frog. If they are new most of the wiring is there.

Nigel




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 Posted: Mon Jan 15th, 2018 09:00 am
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Bobby098
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hi thanks,  its dc so I need to put insulate rail joiners on all the points were the picture shows ?..     sorry    bob 

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 Posted: Mon Jan 15th, 2018 10:09 am
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Sol
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If the two track feeds are on the left hand end and you are happy with power feeding via blades ( even with contacts for frog switching) then No as long as the tracks are dead ended.
I do suggest you read that Brian Lambert website.



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 Posted: Tue Jan 16th, 2018 05:56 pm
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Bobby098
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ok thanks very much, I now have the book but still get confused    :cry:  bob .....    

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 Posted: Tue Jan 16th, 2018 10:31 pm
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BCDR
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Hi Bob,

Dead ended just means a gap in continuity, no physical connection. I just use an air gap set using a bit is styrene sheet. Unless firmly fixed, rails will creep with use. Which is why plastic insulating joiners are normally used.

Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Jan 17th, 2018 10:05 pm
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thespanishdriver
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Just a thought Bob. Given that you are going to build a shunting layout, are you going to be manually switching the points or having point motors fitted?
The above answers to your wiring installation will still apply but if you are going with the point motor option, the Gauge Master PM1 is a good point motor and very well priced. It will switch the polarity over for you rather than relying on the point blades for contact - especially if you paint the rails.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 09:21 am
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Bobby098
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yes its going to be point motors ... 

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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 03:45 pm
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BCDR
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thespanishdriver wrote: Just a thought Bob. Given that you are going to build a shunting layout, are you going to be manually switching the points or having point motors fitted?
The above answers to your wiring installation will still apply but if you are going with the point motor option, the Gauge Master PM1 is a good point motor and very well priced. It will switch the polarity over for you rather than relying on the point blades for contact - especially if you paint the rails.
Hi Bob,

Gary raises some good points that you should consider as a means of getting bullet-proof running. Point motors have wiring that enables the polarity of the frog to be changed when you switch the points, but while you are at it you might as well as well connect the point blades and closure rails to the respective outside rails. Means a bit of soldering (no worse than soldering jumper leads), but once you've done it they will work reliably.

Just remember not to paint the top of the rails, otherwise all bets are off. If you want rusty-looking rails in an old siding get some cheap and old brass track sections.

Nigel



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