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Ed
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With Latton Street now having dust covers put on as it’s been far too cold in the garage since mid November, thought I’d have a go at something new.

I’ve been thinking for months I’d quite like to do something in narrow gauge, and although I briefly dabbled in 009 many many years ago, it was seeing a picture of a 009 loco balance on somebody's finger that made me think it really is to small for me now.

Inspired by various 7mm Narrow Gauge layouts I’ve seen around the web I thought I’d have a go at a few kits in O-16.5, something I can do indoors for the next few months until it’s warm enough to get back out in the garage.



While waiting for the loco body kit to be delivered, I built a scaled up version of the Scaelscenes Small Goods Store, just to get some idea of size.

Bit of a bodge job as I don’t think I’ve used the right thickness of card and I’m not very good at card building kits. There are plenty of far far better examples pictured around the web, but at least I now know this stuff is BIG.

Comparison.



Just finished one of the Peco wagon kits and decided buffers was the way to go.



Not painted yet and I’ve messed up a bit as I’ve removed the lowest two rivets on the left hand side of the body, not realising the hand brake went on the other end  :thud

Working on one of the the two Smallbrook Studio loco kits I’ve bought, ‘AURA’.



I bought this one as an afterthought after already ordering ‘ECHO’ which is a full body kit, but thought I’d do this first as it’s only really a new cab and chimney.

More as it happens.


Ed

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This thread is going to be very helpful to me because I am planning a small narrow gauge lay out next and have not got a clue on how to go about it.

John 

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Watching with interest Ed, I'm going down exactly  the same O-16.5 route for the very same reasons and have been collecting bits and peices over the last year including some smallbrooke kits to build. Have you been following Nigels (BCDR) On30 kit bashing master class ? Some great little tips in there from Nigel Ron and Max on detailing etc. 
  Your right about the difference in scale with the buildings... big beggars aren't they !   Any idea on a theme yet ? I'm thinking of some sort of grungy industrial-engineering back water where wagons and logos are repaired and maybe spruced up so I can park a few logos and wagons around and do some shunting. . But I'll not ramble on in here,  looking forward to what you come up with !

Cheers

Matt

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This is great Ed.  I'm so happy to see you venturing into 0 gauge. :doublethumb :chicken  Narrow gauge is, I think, a good compromise.

I'm also glad to see that you are dabbling in Scalescenes buildings. :Happy I've been doing that as well:

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14475&forum_id=150

John


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"Masterclass"?? Ha! Trials and tribulations and how to do it on the cheap with bits of styrene is a better description. If it helps others that is a great bonus.

It's nice to see others getting into 0 scale narrow gauge. Bit easier on the eyes and fingers and it can be done in the same space as a 4mm layout. Those Smallbrook Studio kits are great as scratch building aids, and the resin takes well to either epoxy or CA. Downside is that most are designed for the Hornby 0-4-0, where the wheels are too big. Branchlines in Westbury, Wiltshire, had a decent chassis with appropriate diameter wheels. I think it is still in business. Ask for the narrow gauge leaflet. I'll give a plug for A1 Models as well, easy brass kits that go on US diesel locomotives.

Nigel

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Totally fictitious Matt, no real theme. I might recycle my Shunting Puzzle Plank board, to make a micro layout.

Don't think my Goods Store is anywhere near as good as yours John (Brossard), but I've scaled up the old 3 foot rule by 175% as well, so from 5 foot 3 inches it ain't too bad.

Certainly easier on the eyes and fingers Nigel. I've seen you mention the oversize wheels elsewhere. Suppose could always make it a tramway and put skirts on all the locos :lol:

I've fitted the funnel and put some filler along the side of the tanks where they meet the spectacle plate.





The bottom of the spectacle plate and the back of the firebox attached to it inside the cab  has to be sanded/filed to accommodate the motor housing. Anyone with a Hornby pug will know what I mean.

Unfortunately I was a bit over zealous with the file and there is a gap where the top of the boiler meets the spectacle plate, behind the dome in the next picture.



It's the dark bit (I've actually put pencil on it).

Plan to cut a rectangle piece of styrene to go right across the front of the spectacle plate about 5mm high to hide it.

Now waiting for the filler to dry.


Ed


PS John (Western Way) I haven't got a clue what I'm doing either :mutley


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Hi Ed,

I knew bits of styrene and filler would be used sooner or later ;-). Tramway plates are a good idea if you don't want to mess around with the chassis. More styrene. Looking good. Contractor loco, highway construction (bypass) in the 1930's?

Nigel

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Western Way wrote: This thread is going to be very helpful to me because I am planning a small narrow gauge lay out next and have not got a clue on how to go about it.

John 

Join the club. Basically 2 ways - cheap and cheerful using a chassis from the scale below (N for HO/OO, HO/OO for 7mm/On16.5/On30, although an N chassis with an O body works well, estate railways and the like), or lotsa dosh kits. I've done both, and lean towards proprietary chassis' and either off the shelf body parts/shells or DIY bodies using styrene/brass sheet and tubes. Using a proprietary chassis saves a lot of time, styrene/brass keeps it cheap. Peco On16.5 track works OK in 7mm, although you can use regular OO track and just increase the sleeper spacing. Or make your own using Templot or Fast Tracks templates.

O scale bodies in narrow gauge in reality come to around 1/64 S scale, although most HO/OO bodies look fine with an O scale cab, chimney, domes and water filler covers. No hard and fast rules about prototypes, most narrow gauge locomotives got modified over the years to suite local conditions. The class 08 chassis with the jackshaft is prototypical for early diesel mechanical locomotives.The Dapol Drewry kit is a good source of bits and pieces. It's the old Kitmaster tooling, still good after all these years.

Plenty of suppliers in the UK. You can still get the Wrightline kits (from Adrian Swain), expensive but nicely detailed. Brass etches from Worsley Works, usually just the body shell, kits and bits from Smallbrook Studios...

Nigel

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Don,t knock it Ed, your buildings are fine  plus they get lost in amongst the completed layout.

Ed
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sparky wrote: Don,t knock it Ed, your buildings are fine  plus they get lost in amongst the completed layout.

Thanks Reg, at least in a larger scale the bits you have to cut out aren't quite so small.


Ed

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In 7mm windows are still a problem.  I've started the Scalescenes water tower:

(https://scalescenes.com/product/r025a-water-tower/ )

and tried to cut out the windows from card with little success.  Perhaps my hamfistedness. 

In this case I'm trying to build them (there are only two) from 0.060" x 0.060" Evergreen strip. 

I did post a thread about Brassmasters windows in 7mm so if people want these, they should inundate John with emails demanding them.

John

Ed
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Slow progress.....





I'd forgotten that to do any spraying with rattle cans, I'd have to go out in the garage and we seem to have had more dark, cold, wet and windy January days than over the last few years....

......... or perhaps I'm just getting old :lol:



Ed



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You may already know Ed, but you get a better result if you warm the rattle can in a jug of hot water for a while .

Ed
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Thanks Reg, good tip :thumbs

I've just been bring the rattle can indoors for a few hours, to warm up before using.


Ed

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Just building the next two wagon kits and got to the point of drilling hole for the buffers.

(Wagon floors are in the foreground below)

I've decided to go without buffers and removed them from the wagon I had already built and the loco.



Don't know why but the loco looks better to me without buffers, sort of cries out 'Narrow Gauge'.


Ed

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Great!!!

Nigel

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Thanks Nigel.


Ed

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I've built another two wagons and the loco with two wagons will just about fit on my version of a cassette, otherwise known as a Peco Loco Lift.



Not a very good picture as there's not a lot of light in the kitchen, but you get the idea.


Ed

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Looks the part Ed !   :thumbs  What's next ?

Cheers
  Matt

Ed
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Think I'd better get on with the other loco kit Matt.

I know it's wider, so I need to make sure it will fit on the 'cassette'.


Ed

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I've started the 'ECHO' kit and it just about fits on the cassette.





Footplate isn't quite flat on the chassis for some reason and that large T/L coupling has got to come off.

I've replaced the couplings on the first loco with a wire loop, but I'm not really happy with it, so some more surgery required on both loco chassis to see what I can get to fit.

 

Ed



Ed
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Got the boiler fitted at the week-end.

It says in the instructions that "If fouling occurs, pare carefully away at the underside of the backhead on the inside edge to gain clearance", and check that the capacitor/suppressors and resistors are not on top of the motor, but in front of the motor and behind the worm gear or to the side.

Bearing in mind these 0-4-0 chassis have changed a bit over the years, I found that the rear of the motor and it's plastic mounting didn't require much 'paring' to fit, it was the capacitors and motor connections themselves that needed quite a bit of sanding to the inside of the boiler to allow it to sit down on the footplate. Moving the caps forward just made them droop so that they were almost touching the worm.

I've tried to dim the picture a bit to show the basic shape inside the boiler casting.



On reflection, it would have been easier to fit a decoder which normally means turning the motor upside down anyway.

Food for thought :hmm





Now working on the cab and have fitted the regulator.





Ed

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Interesting Ed, I'm still swithering  whether to go DC or DCC with my kits. One of my concerns is lack of space for the decoder. How much room do you think would be left if you cut off the capacitors/ suppressors  and flipped the motor ?

On Buffers, A couple of bad photos but they show a type of buffer used on some light engines and a dumb buffer used on some Tank engines that I'm thinking  of scratch building as a better option












Not sure if these help  :)  Looking forward to more !

Cheers
  Matt

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Hi Ed,

That's coming along nicely. You could always drill out the boiler and smoke box (separate them first), or mill out a section in one of the tanks, or scratch build a bunker to put a Z/N scale decoder in (I've done all three in the past). A chassis etch and proper sized wheels from Branchlines in Westbury (if they are still in business) is another alternative. Comes with proper connecting and motion rods, and uses just the metal frame from the Hornby. Smaller wheels and motor and a high ration (1:50) gearbox leaves plenty of room for a decoder, as well as good slow running. The other thing I found is that the older metal chassis Hornby 0-4-0 works better than the modern plastic one with the Smallbrook Studio kits.

Nigel

Ed
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This is one I did a few years ago Matt, with a Digitrax N gauge decoder (DN136).



If I'd flipped the motor I could have moved the decoder down so that it over hanged the worm a bit, or a Z scale decoder would be a bit smaller.

I decided to go without buffers and just have a central buffer/coupling.  I believe the prototype is a Norwegian/Chopper coupling.

Lot of people use Kadees, but I think they just look right on UK four wheeled wagons, so I'm trying to stick with the Bachmann mini type tension locks. Not a million miles away from a central buffer/coupling.

I have looked at some others including scale chopper couplings here but they're a bit expensive and require a fair bit of work.


Hi Nigel

Interesting that you mention the old Hornby chassis as Smallbrook recommend the newer China produced ones as better runners.

Take your point though if you change the wheels and gearing, but I think that may be a bit beyond me with only a few hand tools and the dining table as a work bench.

However, I think Branchlines are still going, there's a thread on RMweb and somebody bought something in January.

I'm assuming it's the same Branchlines that make the chassis for the Peco O-16.5 loco kits, tempting as a third loco if a little more expensive, and I've never made a white metal kit.


Ed







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While assembling the cab front and sides, I remembered it said in the instructions to get the boiler as far forward as possible to clear the top of the motor. But bearing in mind the cab front fits in front of the rear band on the boiler, the further forward it is, the greater the distance between the cab front and back, and......





you can end up with a bit of a gap.

Some filing of the rear boiler band solved the problem.





The side tanks are glued in line with the cab sides, running parallel to the outer edge of the footplate.

This should leave a gap of about 2mm between the inside of the front of the tanks and outside of the smoke box.

Mine isn't, so despite all my efforts I didn't quite get the boiler in right in the middle of the footplate :oops:

Not going to show you a picture of that though, too late now anyway :mutley

Just about had time yesterday to give it a quick spray with grey primer.





Chimney looks a bit sloped in the pictures, but it looks ok when I'm looking at it.

Cab roof isn't fixed either as I want to paint the inside of the cab and add a driver.

I rather fancy painting it red, don't know why, just think a red narrow gauge locomotive would look good.

Still have the smoke box door darts to fit and a whistle once painted.

As I was putting the body back on the capacitor connection to one of the motor terminals broke away, so out with the soldering iron next.



Ed




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It was a leg of what I believe to be the Choke (Inductor) that had broken, ringed red below.



Not re-solderable and I found a Gaugemaster DCC26 which I'd bought for an old Hornby B12, so chipping it was going to be easier.

I tried turning the motor to give a bit more room, but the motor terminals were fouling on the chassis. The DCC26 is a pretty small decoder and fits ok on top anyway, so I left the motor the right way up.



According to Gaugemaster, "DC Running: Allows running on both DC and DCC layouts with no adjustment, if your controller has a smooth DC output then your locomotive will run better than before!", so it should be ok on the micro layout on DC.


Ed

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Its amazing the difference a quick spray with the primer makes  :thumbs  I like the Idea of Red , but does that meen you are going for some gold lining as well ?       :hmm


Cheers

Matt

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Hang on Matt, bit of a way to go yet. I need to sort out the couplings and order some name plates.

I've got some 'Ford Burgundy Red' paint on the way though :mutley


Ed

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Ooh, I like the look of these locos. My sympathies on the alignment problems you had during assembly, but at least the build's none the worse for it.

Ed
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Not much time at the moment for doing anything, although I have given 'ECHO' a couple of coats of burgundy.

The smokebox dart isn't right so I need to revisit it, or find an alternative and it all looks more like pink in the pictures which I'm sure is down to the camera.





 

Ed

Last edited on Sat Apr 14th, 2018 09:25 am by Ed


                 

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