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Scratch building a cottage - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Fri Dec 15th, 2017 09:11 am
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Ssamm
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As a way of testing my skills at scratchbuilding, I decided to build a small white stone cottage based on a downloaded kit I had from smart models. It would have a card shell and Slaters plastikard on the outside.


I wanted to change the dimensions slightly. So rather than draw the outline onto some card, I used some graph paper which I could then glue to the card.



I have been reading David Wright's book 'Making Urban Buildings for Model Railways'. In a couple of places he suggests using Bostik Glu & Fix, which is a contact adhesive. However Bostik in Australia do not sell Glu & Fix or an equivalent.

I would welcome any suggestions on a glue for fixing plastikard/styrene to card.

Evan

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 Posted: Fri Dec 15th, 2017 12:02 pm
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Sol
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Evan,try Tarzan's Grip



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 Posted: Fri Dec 15th, 2017 10:35 pm
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Ssamm
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Thanks for the suggestion, Sol.

Evan

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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 02:26 am
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Ssamm
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I have had lots of trials and errors as I tried my hand at this building. So it has been a real learning experience.

On the positive side  Slaters plasticard  was quite easy to work with. And I tried a few glues (thanks Sol for the tip) to see how they would work

The main problem has been the windows. I had some Wills windows which I thought might work but when I cut out the opening it was clear they were far too big. So scratched that shell.

I then printed some windows from a downloaded kit onto a transparency. Which looked good and about the right size. But when I installed them, the colours of the frames were far too pale and the frames got lost. Installing some sort of white or lightly coloured 'curtain' brought back the frames.

York Modelrail seem to have good selection so I will try those.

On the windows and doors I would appreciate some advice on the best way to cut out the window opening. I initially cut out the openings on the shell then marked the opening onto the plasticard. But I am not entirely happy with that.

Another way would be to fix the embossed plasticard to the shell then cut the openings working from the plasticard side.

Is there any preferred way that you would recommend?

Cheers
Evan

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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 07:22 am
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peterm
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That looks really good. I love the sagging roof, it looks really authentic. I'll have to come round and check it along with a cuppa.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 08:22 am
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Western Way
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That is a lovely looking piece of work, I have done very little scratch building so I can not suggest anything to help, sorry, however I know great work when I see it and that is great work!

John :)



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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 08:25 am
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BronteLad
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Evan,

My way with windows and doors is to mark out the openings on the plain plasticard, cut them out (I drill a hole in each corner, cut out the shape using a piercing saw, and then tidy up the openings with a file), glue the embossed plasticard to the plain plasticard and then repeat the cutting out process with the embossed plasticard using the holes in the plain plasticard as a guide.

Window frames are then made from Evergreen strip cut to size to fit the openings.

See photos below.







Regards,

David V.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 10:06 am
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Western Way
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I make 'glazing' for my building models, kit or pre made, from the transparent plastic blisters that an assortment of things come in.




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Oh, Dr Beeching what have you done?
There once were lots of trains to catch, but soon there will be none.
I'll have to buy a bike, 'cos I can't afford a car.
Oh, Dr Beeching what a naughty man you are!
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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 11:40 am
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Ssamm
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Thanks, Pete.

That's impressive work, David. Is it OO? What size plasticard do you use for the shell.

I like the idea of using the plastic packaging as windows. I have used the packaging as bases for the model people. I superglue the people to small squares of plastic - usually 0.5 to 1 cm square. It makes them more stable and also allows me to move them around.

Cheers
Evan

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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 11:53 am
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BronteLad
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Thanks Evan.

It's 2mm scale - 0.5mm Evergreen sheet with Slaters embossed stone laminated on top with Limonene solvent.

Evergreen also do a 0.13mm clear sheet which I sometimes use for windows, though I normally use microscope slips as they don't get fogged by the solvents I use.

I do like your idea of using clear sheet as a base for figures - I'll have to give that a try.

Regards,

David

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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 12:07 pm
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Western Way
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I have used it on the 28mm buildings I have built for people. 4 Ground and the like supply the frames but no glazing. I tiny dab of super glue on to the frame and then place it on to the clear plastic. Once dry cut around the frame.

Very easy and effective

John :)



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Oh, Dr Beeching what have you done?
There once were lots of trains to catch, but soon there will be none.
I'll have to buy a bike, 'cos I can't afford a car.
Oh, Dr Beeching what a naughty man you are!
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 Posted: Mon Jan 1st, 2018 12:54 pm
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Bob K
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One way of doing window framing is to use self-adhesive white labels. It is possible to cut very thin strips, which can be overlaid onto clear plastic. With some practice it works very well. You need a very sharp knife and a good steel straight edge.
Bob

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