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Gladiator LNER/BR J6 - Kit Bashing - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 05:23 pm
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


Joined: Fri Dec 9th, 2016
Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
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More progress last night. Despite starting quite late I managed to get the two coal space sides in place. 

I had anticipated that one of them may not fit very well and might leave a gap that would in fairness be hidden by the coal but I was pleasantly surprised when after a little tweaking with pliers and a rub of some abrasive paper it went into place as it should. Just the details and coal rails to add now.







I am not sure why but I chose to use shiny sinks to clean it up after I finished instead of my usual Bar Keepers Friend and it turned all the solder black making it look to be worse than it is.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 08:49 pm
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sparky
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It still looks very good Rob. :thumbs



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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2018 10:04 pm
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


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Thanks Reg :cheers



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 Posted: Tue Nov 20th, 2018 06:20 pm
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


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Further progress on the tender for the J6. Starting off with a slight backward step.

While struggling with the instructions I hadn't read the text when fitting the lifting eyes I just followed the drawing which unfortunately showed the wrong type of backing plate. Reading through the text late last week I saw my error and by coincidence David Hill of Gladiator pointed it out the day after on the Guild forum. 

My customer had seen the post and said it didn't matter if they didn't show too much but it was only a few minutes of a job with the microflame and a scalpel to take them off and swap them for the right ones.





Next I added the vacuum and steam heat pipes to the rear of the tender.


Then I started on the front.





The brake standard was one that I had in my spares box that was left over from the B16 build. The other levers are bent wire and scrap etch.



The bucket is one of Jim McGeown's castings that I had sat on my desk for a long time after I had made a bit of a mess of trying to hollow it out.

I took it back into the workshop to see if I could do anything with it after being informed that the hole in the left hand side was for a bucket. I then remembered the collets that I had made for drilling the valve guide castings on the Streamlined Duchess and used one of them to tidy up the inside of the bucket top using a dental burr and lastly soldered a handle on from scrap etch.




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 Posted: Thu Nov 22nd, 2018 05:36 pm
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


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I didn't seem to make much visible progress in last night's session but I got the lamp irons on and hopefully you can see why I prefer to replace etched versions with cast ones where possible.



 I have also fitted one inside the side sheet at the front of the tender but alas the camera decided to focus on the nearside so the added lamp iron came out so blurred you couldn't see it. 

I will try again when I next take photos.

I did manage to add the tank filler though so another detail bites the dust.



Coal rails next I think.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 01:47 am
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Headmaster
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There are many things I see in this club and think, "I could have a go at that..." and then there are things like your model making where I just have to acknowledge a craftsman and say, "Wow!"

Great job.  Again!

Michael



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"There is no harm in repeating a good thing." Plato
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 11:45 am
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


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Thanks Michael,
Although I really appreciate the comment, I too had to start from scratch learning to solder etc. as I went along.

I was/am helped by the fact that my pleasure comes from the making rather than the running of model railways. I have built a lot of models in the last 10 years too which helps to perfect techniques.

Because we stayed in Wakefield this weekend it gave me an extra evening at the bench - usually I am worn out by the time we get to Bishop Auckland and rarely do anything once I arrive on Friday evening.

As luck would have it I was able to finish work early too so I had around 5 hours at the bench which saw off the remaining upper works details.

The coal rails were too long and I had to split them at the rear of the tender. I think that this is a result of the cut out in the tender flare for the hand grip which is a feature of this type of tender.

I followed David Hill's example and soldered half round beading over the coal rails and what an improvement it's made.





I also put half round beading in one the inside of the front hand grip sections to make it a round profile. and you can see the additional lamp bracket too which wouldn't focus on my last photo session.











I also got around not fitting a nut to secure the front of the tender top by tapping a piece of tube and soldering it in when the nut should be.

This just leaves me with the chassis which I have made a start on.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2018 08:54 pm
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


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Yesterday saw the tender completed apart from wiring the pick ups and setting the ride height which will be done towards the end of the build.







You will note that I have added an extra frame spacer. I did this because I am using the tender for pick ups and wanted to ensure that there was no flexing which might affect them - The brass spacer was a scaled up P4 spacer from the spares box which I cut down to fit.







Back onto the loco next.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 05:52 pm
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Rob Pulham
7mm Scale Modeller of the LNER


Joined: Fri Dec 9th, 2016
Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 484
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My photos:
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I spent 2 and 1/2 hours last night preparing the cradle for the foot plate which contains the valances....

Some this was my own fault because it's quite thick nickel silver and like David found out when he built one recently, you need to file a lot out of either side of the fold lines to allow the valances to sit vertical.  I had attempted to fold up one side some time ago which needs a bit of brute strength but then found that it wouldn't come to 90 degrees.

The first job was to straighten the side already bent enough to allow me to file out the fold line. I did this by annealing with the microflame and then using the vice to squash the etch back almost flat. Once I had filed the fold lines, I bent it as far as I could with one of the sides off a set of bending bars and then used a rubber mallet to bash it to the final 90 degree fold while the middle section was firmly gripped in a second set of bending bars to ensure that it stayed flat.

Hopefully I will get the footplate shaped and soldered on tonight so I will take photos after that.



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